Thermal and mass transport properties of polyester–cotton plated fabrics in relation to back layer fibre profiles and face layer yarn types

Clothing plays an important role in maintaining thermal equilibrium between a human body and the ambient environment by serving as a medium for heat, moisture vapour and liquid moisture transfer. The ability of fabric to maintain this equilibrium is related to thermo-physiological comfort. Plating is an innovative knitted fabric production technique to obtain bi-layered fabrics. An attempt has been made to engineer plated knit structures with such a combination of fibre cross section in the back (inner/next to skin) and the yarn type in the face (outer) layer, so that a rapid liquid transfer from back layer by wicking and quick liquid absorption and evaporation by the face layer can be achieved. Plated fabrics using the combination of triangular polyester fibre in the back and carded cotton yarn in the face layer showed the higher thermal resistance, higher absorbent capacity and would be warmer to the initial touch. However, the combination of combed cotton yarn with triangular polyester fibre resulted in fabrics with the higher air permeability, moisture vapour transmission rate and transplanar wicking.     

Investigation on permeability and moisture management properties of different denim fabrics after repeated laundering

The physiological comfort determined by air permeability and moisture management properties of fabrics is influenced by various constructional parameters of the fabric which give woven fabric a porous structure. Evaporation of sweat during wear has the potential to cool the body besides restricting the additional weight of sweat being absorbed by the fabric. In this study, comfort characteristics of denim fabrics with different weft yarn of cotton, polyester and core spun Lycra have been discussed. Effect of enzyme washing and repeated laundering on air permeability, moisture management and drying rate has also been discussed. It was observed that air permeability and water vapour permeability of unwashed denim fabrics with cotton weft yarn are significantly higher than the fabric with polyester and Lycra cotton weft yarns. The wetting time is higher for cotton and Lycra cotton yarn fabrics. One-way transport index is highest for Lycra cotton weft fabrics and lowest for fabrics with polyester weft. Fabrics with polyester weft yarns show highest spreading rate, spreading radius and drying rate due to better wicking and hydrophobic nature of polyester fibres.     

Thermo-physiological comfort characteristics of polyester air-jet-textured and cotton-yarn fabrics

Air-jet-textured polyester yarns were produced using two feed yarns differing in filament fineness and number of filaments. By varying the overfed rates of feed yarns and changing their positions in core and effect, five textured yarns were produced. Woven fabrics were prepared using these textured yarns as weft and cotton yarns in warp. To study the effect of air-jet-texturing parameters on the thermo-physiological comfort characteristics of fabric, the woven fabrics were tested for thickness, thermal properties, transverse wicking and air permeability. It is observed that thermal conductivity and resistance of fabrics are not influenced by the texturing parameters/textured yarn structure. These properties are mainly dependent on the entrapped air present in fabrics. Thermal absorptivity is a transient phenomenon of heat flow reflecting that the ‘warm-cool feeling’ effect of fabrics depends on smoothness/roughness of fabric surface. Fabrics with smooth surfaces have higher thermal absorptivity values as they provide a large area of contact with human skin. The roughness of fabrics depends on the number of surface loops and filament fineness. Transverse wicking of fabrics depends on the size, continuity and alignment of the capillaries present in the core of textured yarns.     

Impact of structural variations in hollow yarn on heat and moisture transport properties of fabrics

The use of hollow/microporous yarns plays an important role in enhancing the thermo‐physiological comfort properties of fabrics. Depending on structural variations in hollow yarn, heat and moisture regulation behaviours of fabrics can be affected significantly. In this study, three types of hollow cotton yarn fabrics, produced by introducing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) filament in the core, PVA staple fibres in the blend and PVA filament in doubling with cotton spun yarn, are studied. All three types of pre‐hollow yarns and reference yarns are made with a variation in spinning technique (single roving/double roving) to prepare eight single jersey knitted fabrics. The hollow/microporous structure of the yarn is created by dissolving the PVA fibres using hot washing of the fabrics. On overall evaluation of the fabric’s thermo‐physiological comfort properties, the doubled hollow yarn fabrics are found to be better than other fabrics. In general, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, wicking and drying properties of all types of hollow yarn fabrics increase after repeated laundering, while air permeability, water vapour permeability and water absorbency of hollow yarn fabrics mostly decrease. In contrast with fabrics made from yarn produced through single roving technique, use of double roving technique only improves fabric water vapour permeability.     

仿棉聚酯纤维保暖针织产品开发

介绍了仿棉聚酯纤维与棉的混纺纱的性能,选用4种仿棉聚酯纤维/棉混纺纱、氨纶丝、低弹涤纶丝交织,开发了平针添纱织物、平针衬垫拉绒织物、绗缝织物3种保暖针织物,测试分析其性能。结果表明：仿棉聚酯纤维/棉混纺纱针织物具有良好的保暖性、抗起毛起球性及服用舒适性,是开发保暖服装的理想原料。     

Investigating the effect of material and weave design on comfort properties of bilayer-woven fabrics

The paper focuses on the development of a bilayer-woven fabric and investigating the effect of weave design and material type on its comfort properties. Face layer was plain woven with cotton yarn, while two different weave designs (2/2 and 3/1 twill) and four different materials (cotton, polyester, micropolyester and nylon) were used for the back layer. The comfort properties of fabric, including air permeability (AP), thermal resistance, water vapour resistance and overall moisture management capacity, were determined. It was found that both the layers of fabric as a whole contribute to the comfort properties of bilayer fabric. The highest AP was exhibited by fabrics having both layers of cotton, while 3/1 twill samples have a lower value of thermal resistance as compared to the 2/2 twill samples. The results further showed that micro polyester woven in 3/1 twill weave exhibits better comfort properties.     

两面效应经编牛仔面料结构设计及其风格评价

针对靛蓝纱色牢度不高、贴近皮肤穿着易沾色及吸湿后皮肤有潮湿闷热感问题,同时为改善纬编牛仔面料尺寸稳定性差、线圈易脱散等缺点,以靛蓝纱和本白棉纱、异形截面和圆形截面涤纶黑丝与氨纶为原料,在四梳经编机上通过结构设计开发两面效应经编牛仔面料,使贴近皮肤的一面显露涤纶,另外一面显露棉纱。通过扫描电子显微镜对不同截面的涤纶表面进行表征,并对其拉伸性能进行比较;研究了面料的顶破性能、拉伸弹性回复性、吸湿速干性能,并利用PhabrOmeter 织物风格仪对风格特征进行评价。结果表明：靛蓝纱的强力高于本白棉纱,而毛羽指数降低了17.1%;异形截面涤纶显著提高了经编牛仔织物的滴水扩散速率、芯吸高度、手感和折痕回复性。     

Comfort properties of bamboo/cotton blended knitted fabrics produced from rotor spun yarns

The comfort characteristics of bamboo/cotton-blended knitted fabrics made from rotor-spun yarns were studied in this research work. Five different blend proportions namely 100% bamboo, 100% cotton, 50:50 cotton:bamboo, 70:30 cotton:bamboo and 30:70 cotton:bamboo were used to produce rotor-spun yarns of 30^sNe_c. The yarn samples developed out of these different blend proportions were evaluated for yarn strength and elongation, yarn unevenness, yarn imperfections and used to produce single-jersey-knitted fabrics. All the fabric samples were dyed and finished. Fabric samples were evaluated for geometrical properties such as course/inch, wales/inch, stitch density and thickness apart from measuring comfort properties such as airpermeability, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and water vapour permeability. The results indicated that 50/50 bamboo/cotton-blended knits have comparable fabric quality in terms of comfort properties with respect to 100% bamboo fabrics.     

蜂窝微孔改性涤纶针织物服用性能测试与分析

使用蜂窝微孔改性涤纶纱、莫代尔纱、天丝A100纱及棉纱开发了3种针织物,分别测试它们的顶破性能、抗起球性能、悬垂性能、毛细管效应、导湿性能、透湿性能和透气性能。测试结果表明:蜂窝微孔改性涤纶针织物具有优异的抗起球性能、透湿性能和透气性能;顶破强力、悬垂性能、毛细芯吸高度和导湿性能介于改性涤纶与棉合股编织织物,改性涤纶与莫代尔、天丝A100纱合股编织织物之间。     

机织面料吸湿快干梯度结构的构建

采用吸湿快干纤维Coolking及莫代尔、棉和涤纶纤维进行纱线设计,构建了机织面料吸湿快干梯度结构模型,通过疏水性纤维和亲水性纤维的合理配置,变化表里经纱的密度比,利用机织多层结构研制了6种具有导湿快干功能的机织面料。分别测试了这6种面料的毛细高度、保水率、水滴渗透面积和体积、自然干燥率、透气量,采用多项综合值对吸湿快干效果加以评定。结果表明,表里经纱密度比为1∶2的结构在吸湿快干性能上要优于表里经纱比为1∶1的结构,里层纱线由莫代尔/涤纶、Coolking/棉构成的配置吸湿快干性能较好,莫代尔/棉、Coolking/棉的配置其次,莫代尔/涤纶和莫代尔/棉的配置较差。     

Study on moisture management properties of Micro-Pore Ring-Spun Viscose Yarn-plated knitted fabrics

Moisture management properties decide the comfort level of the fabric. The most important characteristics of a knitted structure to be used in next to-skin applications are concerned with two different fabric layers namely the separation and absorption layers. The present study attempts to study the moisture management properties of plated knitted fabrics developed from structurally modified Micro-Pore Ring-Spun Viscose Yarn (hydrophilic) as the outer layer and polypropylene (hydrophobic) yarn as the inner layer of fabric. The structurally modified Micro-Pore Ring Spun Viscose Yarn (MPRSVY) was produced by blending Viscose (V)/PVA (Poly-Vinyl Alcohol) fiber in short staple spinning system. PVA is removed by treating the fabric in hot water at a temperature of 900C for 20–30 minutes, followed by cold wash. The study reveals that the fabric plated with Polypropylene (PP)/ Micro-Pore Ring Spun Viscose Yarn (MPRSVY) and Polypropylene (PP)/Viscose (V) exhibits excellent moisture management properties with a higher bottom spreading speed, one way transport index, and overall moisture management capacity. Moisture management properties of PP/MPRSVY and PP/V plated knitted fabrics prove that they can be used to produce active wear fabrics.     

多重集聚纺纱结构成形机制及其针织物性能

为解决多毛羽传统环锭纱针织困难,而光洁的常规集聚纺纱线织物手感硬的技术难题,建立串联半开放式多重集聚纺纱方法,分析多重集聚纺纱机制和结构成形特征。理论分析结果表明,多重集聚纺纱线具有外紧而内柔的结构特征。基于理论解析,在相同工艺条件下,分别采用传统环锭、常规集聚和多重集聚纱线制成针织面料,对比分析了各针织物压缩回弹、透气、抗起毛起球、耐磨、染色等性能。测试结果表明：与传统环锭纱相比,多重集聚纱线针织物耐磨、透气性、抗起毛起球性改善;与常规集聚纱线相比,多重集聚纱线针织物悬垂性、压缩回弹性和染色性能明显提高。     

Moisture management properties of plated knit structures with varying fiber types

Thermo-physiological comfort of clothing designed for next-to-skin applications is influenced by the clothing’s ability to manage heat and moisture transfer thereby maintaining dry skin microclimate. Plated knit structures designed and engineered with correct selection of fiber and yarn constituents in the distinct bottom (exposed to environment) and top (next to sin) layers can serve well for next-to-skin applications. In this study, plated fabrics with altering hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibers in top and bottom layers and different types of hydrophobic fibers in top layers have been compared for the moisture management properties. Results show that fabrics knitted with hydrophobic fibers (polypropylene, polyester) in top layers seem suitable for next-to-skin applications as they were classified as moisture management fabrics owing to high values of accumulative one-way transport index and bottom spreading speed. Though both fabrics can be recommended for next-to-skin applications, however, polypropylene on account of superior moisture management properties in the top layer would be more effective in providing dry feel next to skin and hence, seems to be a preferred choice over polyester for such applications. Fabric knitted with nylon in top layer was classified as water penetration fabric due to poor liquid transfer properties. Fabrics knitted with cotton in top layer irrespective of the hydrophobic fiber in bottom layer were poor in moisture management properties. Univariate analysis of variance with a confidence level of 95% showed the results to be statistically significant. Pearson correlation coefficient was obtained for all the moisture management indices by bivariate correlation procedure to determine strength and direction of association between the different moisture management indices. Most of the indices were found to be significantly correlated also, OWTC and OMMC were found to be positively and linearly related to each other.     

Investigation on thermo-physiological and compression characteristics of weft-knitted 3D spacer fabrics

The thermo-physiological comfort and compression properties of knitted spacer fabrics have been evaluated by varying the different spacer fabric parameters. Air permeability and water vapor transmission of the fabrics were measured using the Textest FX-3300 air permeability tester and PERMETEST. Thermal behavior of fabrics was evaluated by (TCi) thermal conductivity analyzer and overall moisture management capacity was evaluated by moisture management tester. Spacer fabrics compression properties were also tested using KES-FB3. In the KES testing, the compression resilience, work of compression, linearity of compression, and other parameters were calculated from the pressure–thickness curves. Analysis of variance was performed using new statistical software named QC expert trylobite and Darwin in order to compare the influence of different fabric parameters on thermo-physiological and compression behavior of samples. This study established that the raw materials, type of spacer yarn, density, thickness, and tightness of surface layer have significant influence on both thermal conductivity and work of compression in spacer fabrics. The parameter which mainly influences the water vapor permeability of these fabrics is the property of raw material i.e. the wetting and wicking properties of fibers. The Pearson correlation between moisture capacity of the fabrics and water vapor permeability was found.     

精梳涤纶条含量对涤纶针织物性能的影响

为开发高品质涤纶针织物,设计了6组不同精梳涤纶条含量的纯涤纶纱和1组普梳涤纶纱,并制备相应的针织物。通过对针织物抗起毛起球性、顶破性、织物风格及透气透湿性进行测试,同时对比分析不同含量精梳涤纶条对织物服用性能的影响。结果表明:精梳涤纶条含量对织物的透湿性、透气性、起毛起球性、顶破性及织物风格有直接影响;相同组织结构下,精梳涤纶条含量在60%~70%时针织物的透湿性能、顶破性能及织物风格指标最优;精梳涤纶条含量在100%时针织物的透气性能和起毛起球性能最优;精梳涤纶条含量在60%~70%时织物服用性能与全精梳织物服用性能相比差异不大。在实际生产中,采用不同含量精梳涤纶条进行生产,既能满足高质量要求,又能节约成本,提高效率。     

Characterization of fabric properties knitted from multifilament polyester textured yarns with various number of filaments

The purpose of this study is to investigate the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics knitted from textured polyester multifilament yarns with various numbers of filaments in the yarn cross-section. In this regard, some of the characteristics of yarns and fabrics, knitted from the mentioned yarns, were measured and analysed. Analysis of results showed that increasing the number of filaments in the yarn cross-section leads to a decrease in yarn’s diameter and abrasion resistance. Moreover, examining the properties of the weft-knitted fabrics revealed that increasing the number of filaments causes a rising trend in the compressibility and bursting strength of fabric. On the contrary, the thickness, air permeability and abrasion resistance decreases due to a growth in the number of filaments. A decline in the strength and elongation of yarns and fabrics produced from them is also another result of increasing the number of filaments in the yarn cross section.     

Novel engineering approach to optimization of thermal comfort properties of hemp containing textiles

The aim of this research was to investigate the possibilities of producing comfort hemp containing textile fabrics by assembling a pure hemp yarn with other-fibre containing yarn. The plain knitted fabrics were produced from two-assembled hemp and three variants of cotton yarns which differed in twist level, all having the same linear density. The transport properties (air permeability, water vapour permeability and thermal resistance) of the hemp-based knitted fabrics were quantitatively analysed. The results obtained demonstrated that the introduction of cotton into hemp-based textiles reduces air and water vapour permeability with the downward trend in thermal resistance. The extent to which the transport properties varied among the hemp/cotton knitted fabrics was dependent on the twist intensity of the cotton yarns. Therefore, the yarn assembling technique is an effective way not only to combine different fibre properties but to take advantage of intrinsic properties of component yarns.     

Permeability properties of single jersey fabrics made of hollow yarns

In this work effect of using hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the single jersey knitted fabrics were studied. Firstly yarns were produced by ring spinning machine using cotton, viscose and acrylic fibres in the mantle and water soluble polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibre in the core. Single jersey fabrics were knitted and PVA core was removed subsequently by washing process to create hollow yarn. Weight, air permeability and water transmission rate properties of fabrics were measured before and after washing and compared with reference fabrics. Due to the removal of PVA fibres from the yarn core after washing treatment, air permeability and water vapour transmission rate of the all kind of single jersey fabrics which were produced with hollow yarns increased as well as weight of the fabrics decreased which will cause more comfort during any exercise. It was also found that mantle fibre type and PVA ratio have significant effect on the fabric properties.     

Thermophysiological comfort properties of selected knitted fabrics and design of T-shirts

Thermal comfort is one of the most important components of comfort which shows physiological, psychological, and physical harmony between human body and environment. The heat and moisture transfer capacity of fabric from skin to environment affects the thermal comfort of garments. The transfer capacity depends on the characteristic features of raw materials and fabric structural properties. In this study, it is aimed to determine the advantages of knitted fabric types, taking into account the environmental condition and activity level by measuring the thermal comfort properties such as air permeability, wicking, moisture management, thermal and water vapor resistances. Two knitted structures composed of tuck and float combinations and six raw materials were chosen for the fabrics produced. According to the measurement results, the polyester and cotton/Coolmax fabrics with float stitches have had good liquid moisture transport properties. Besides, high air permeability and low water vapor resistance have been obtained in viscose and Tencel LF fabrics with tuck stitches. On the basis of the results obtained in this investigation, and taking into consideration thermal behavior of human body, four women’s and five men’s T-shirts are designed. These T-shirt designs may be helpful for further approaches on the optimization of thermal comfort for sports activities in hot environment.     

中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉混纺纬平针织物的服用性能

为研究中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量对其纬平针织物服用性能的影响,设计了5种不同混纺比中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉纤维,采用环锭纺与赛络纺纺制了10组18.3 tex混纺纱,并织成相同规格的纬平针织物。测试并分析织物的顶破、起毛起球、透气、透湿及保暖性能。基于回归分析,获得了中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量与织物各性能指标的关系,并建立了综合性能评价函数对织物的服用性能进行评价。结果表明:随着中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维含量的增加,混纺纬平针织物的顶破强力、透气、透湿、保暖性增加,抗起毛起球性能变差,赛络纱织物的综合性能优于环锭纱织物;中空咖啡碳聚酯纤维/棉混纺织物相比于普通涤/棉织物,透气性能可提高66%,透湿性能提高10%,保暖性能提高2.6倍。