Substantivity of sunscreens—preparation and evaluation of some quaternary ammonium benzophenone derivatives

In continuation of previous studies on keratin-substantive sunscreens, two series of quaternary ammonium compounds, derived from 2,4-dihydroxy and from 4-hydroxybenzophenone and containing O-alkyl and N-alkyl chains of different length were prepared and submitted to substantivity tests on wool, to microbiological tests on two bacterial and two fungal species, and to tests for allergenicity/irritation on human skin. All compounds were rapidly adsorbed by wool in aqueous solution: as expected, the maximum amounts adsorbed at equilibrium (S_max), indicative of the skin substantivity, were greatest for the C12 N-alkyl derivatives, and showed a progressive decrease with increasing length of the N-alkyl substituent. No substantial substantivity differences were detected in four C12 quaternary derivatives, differing by the presence (or absence) of a 2-OH group in the benzophenone moiety and by the length of the O-alkyl ( n = 2 or 3) side chain. When tested for antimicrobial activity, however, only the 4-hydroxybenzophenone C12 quaternary derivatives showed an order of activity comparable with that of two reference compounds. The conditions leading to a maximal antibacterial activity in the present compounds appeared to be the absence of the 2-OH group, and a shorter O-alkyl side chain. None of the new quaternary derivatives showed skin-irritant properties. The results of this investigation, while confirming the peak substantivity of C12 quaternary derivatives, indicate the possibility of dissociating, in a quaternary ammonium sunscreen, the skin substantivity from other unwanted side-effects, and offer some guidelines for the development of safer agents of this type.     

Substantivity of sunscreens: an appraisal of some quaternary ammonium sunscreens

Two series of quaternary ammonium UV-B sunscreens, derived from salicylic acid (S) and from p -methoxycinnamic acid (C), and containing N-alkyl chains of different length (C₂ to C₁₆) were prepared and submitted to substantivity tests on animal (wool) keratin, and to microbiological tests. A direct correlation between substantivity and antimicrobial/antifungal activity was observed in all cases, the compounds bearing C₁₂ alkyl chains displaying peak values. The C-derivatives, when compared with the S-derivatives, showed relatively higher substantivity and sunscreen index (SI) values, coupled with lower antibacterial activity. The substantivity-microbiological activity correlations and the particular behaviour of the C₁₂ derivatives are briefly discussed in the light of the existing literature data. On the basis of the experimental results, possible guidelines for the development of substantive and non-antibacterial (and possibly, non-irritant) quaternary ammonium sunscreens are indicated.
La substantivité des filtres solaires     

Antibacterial lotion testing: a practical approach to demonstrate the antibacterial efficacy of a triclosan-containing leave-on moisturizer

Ordinary hand washing is well regarded as the primary means of removing bacteria from the hands. Because typical daily hand washings are not always thorough, antibacterial wash products provide an extra measure of protection by depositing a residual antibacterial agent to the skin that persists after washing. However, a more direct means of delivering antibacterial agents to the skin could be through a leave-on hand lotion. This paper describes testing which demonstrated that triclosan, a common antibacterial ingredient when administered in an oil-in-water anionic emulsion, was substantive to skin and effective against bacteria in both laboratory settings and in the normal daily environment. In vitro and in vivo methods were used to demonstrate the antibacterial lotion's spectrum of activity, substantivity on skin, persistence of activity, activity vs. resident flora and overall activity in practical use. The work established that a leave-on lotion was a suitable vehicle for the delivery of an antibacterial active ingredient to skin and that the actives delivered from a leave-on lotion were effective in use. Although it is recognized that antibacterial lotions are not a substitute for thorough hand washing and good hygienic practices, this work shows that antibacterial lotions can complement washing by providing consumers with a demonstrable reduction in bacterial levels on their skin. Furthermore, the work shows that the methods described could effectively quantify the antibacterial effects of a leave-on lotion both in the laboratory and in actual use.     

Silicones: use of substantive properties on skin and hair

Silicones have been incorporated in personal care products since the 1950s. Initially used in skin care products, and more recently in hair care applications, silicones are recognized for their lubricating properties and for the characteristic soft smooth feel they impart. With recent advances in silicone technology, these fluids can also provide substantivity and durability.
Resinous silicones such as trimethylsiloxysilicate act as effective substantivity additives when combined with dimethyl silicone in skin care formulations. In tests evaluating the number of wash cycles required to penetrate a silicone barrier, resistance to removal increases markedly as the proportion of resinous silicone to dimethyl silicone is increased. This improvement is related directly to decreased solubility of the resin.     

Inhibition of skin tumor initiation,promotion, and progression by antioxidants and related compounds

Antioxidants have been shown to inhibit the induction of cancer by a wide variety of chemical carcinogens and radiation at many target sites in mice, rats, hamsters, and man. Evidence is accumulating that suggests that free radicals are important in all stages of chemical carcinogenesis. Both carcinogens and tumor promoters have also been shown to decrease the cellular activity of superoxide dismutase and catalase. A number of antioxidants and related compounds were tested to determine if they would inhibit either skin tumor initiation, promotion, or progression. In terms of skin tumor initiation, compounds such as BHT, vitamins E and C, and CuDIPS have been found to inhibit DMBA skin tumor initiation. The mechanism of action of these compounds appears to be related to their effect on the metabolism of DMBA, as BHT and CuDIPS do not inhibit the initiating activity of BP‐diol‐epoxide and MNNG. Although several antioxidants do inhibit skin tumor initiation by procarcinogens, antioxidants arc in general much more effective inhibitors of skin tumor promotion. BHT, BHA, parahydroxyanisole, disulfiran, and vitamins E and C as well as many other antioxidants are very effective inhibitors of skin tumor promotion. We also determined the effect of free radical scavengers on the progression process. Of the agents tested, glutathione and N‐acyl dehydroalamines were (he most effective in reducing carcinoma incidence. Diethyl maleate, a chemical that reduces glutathione levels, was effective in enhancing progression. In addition, overexpression of γ‐glutamyltranspeptidase (GGT), which leads to a reduction in cellular glutathione levels, also enhances progression. These results suggest that GGT has a functional role in skin tumor progression, and that a number of antioxidants are either effective inhibitors of skin tumor initiation, promotion, or progression.     

pH-induced alterations in stratum corneum properties

Skin-cleansing compositions based on alkyl carboxylates (soaps) have a higher irritation potential than those based on syndet surfactants such as alkyl isethionates or alkyl ether sulphates. Contributing factors include inherent differences in the irritation potential of soaps and syndet surfactants, pH-induced changes in surfactant solution chemistry, and the direct effects of pH on the physical properties of the stratum corneum (SC). Past work has not directly addressed the effect of solution pH on the SC itself and its potential role in cleanser-induced skin irritation. In the current work, alterations to SC properties induced by buffered pH solutions and two strongly ionizable surfactants, sodium dodecyl sulphate and sodium lauryl ether sulphate, at different pH values are measured. By utilizing optical coherence tomography (OCT) and infrared (IR) spectroscopy we have directly measured physical changes in SC proteins and lipids. Our results indicate that SC swelling, which reflects alterations to SC structural proteins, is increased significantly at pH 10, compared to pH 4 and 6.5. The transition temperature (T(m)) of SC lipids is found to increase at pH 10, compared to pH 4 and 6.5, suggesting a more rigid SC lipid matrix. Surfactants cause a further increase in swelling and lipid rigidity. Some aspects of what these results mean for SC physical properties as well as their implications to potential mechanisms of surfactant-induced skin irritation are discussed.     

Counteractive effects of propionate or 1,2-propanediol against hypoglycemia and ketonemia of tributyrin-treated cows

We administered tributyrin (500 ml), tributyrin (500 ml) plus magnesium propionate (400 g), tributyrin (500 ml) plus sodium propionate (400 g), or tributyrin (500 ml) plus 1,2-propanediol (400 ml) as a single dose into rumens of lactating cows and then measured in blood the plasma concentrations of glucose, acetoacetate, 3-hydroxybutyrate, free fatty acids, and insulin as a function of time. Tributyrin administration caused hypoglycemia and hyperketonemia similar to the ketotic condition in less than 3 h and was a negative correlation of --.88 between glucose and ketone concentrations in blood plasma. Administration of either magnesium propionate, sodium propionate, or 1,2-propanediol could counteract the hypoglycemia and hyperketonemia induced by tributyrin administration without significantly changing the insulin response. Of the two propionate compounds, magnesium propionate was more effective than sodium propionate for alleviating hypoglycemia and hyperketonemia.     

Effect on Feed Intake of Infusing Sodium Propionate or Sodium Acetate into a Mesenteric Vein of Cattle

Solutions containing sodium propionate or sodium acetate were infused into a mesenteric vein of eight steers in order to examine the effect of increasing the entry rate of these metabolites on feed intake. Infusion of propionate inhibited feed intake to varying degrees, but acetate infused at equivalent rates had no effect. Rate of entry of propionate into the visceral circulation may be a physiological mechanism for controlling feed intake in cattle, but it is mainly effective when the animal has eaten close to its voluntary maximum intake.     

Outbreaks where food workers have been implicated in the spread of foodborne disease. Part 10. Alcohol-based antiseptics for hand disinfection and a comparison of their effectiveness with soaps

Alcohol compounds are increasingly used as a substitute for hand washing in health care environments and some public places because these compounds are easy to use and do not require water or hand drying materials. However, the effectiveness of these compounds depends on how much soil (bioburden) is present on the hands. Workers in health care environments and other public places must wash their hands before using antiseptics and/or wearing gloves. However, alcohol-based antiseptics, also called rubs and sanitizers, can be very effective for rapidly destroying some pathogens by the action of the aqueous alcohol solution without the need for water or drying with towels. Alcohol-based compounds seem to be the most effective treatment against gram-negative bacteria on lightly soiled hands, but antimicrobial soaps are as good or better when hands are more heavily contaminated. Instant sanitizers have no residual effect, unlike some antimicrobial soaps that retain antimicrobial activity after the hygienic action has been completed, e.g., after hand washing. Many alcohol-based hand rubs have antimicrobial agents added to them, but each formulation must be evaluated against the target pathogens in the environment of concern before being considered for use. Wipes also are widely used for quick cleanups of hands, other body parts, and surfaces. These wipes often contain alcohol and/or antimicrobial compounds and are used for personal hygiene where water is limited. However, antiseptics and wipes are not panaceas for every situation and are less effective in the presence of more than a light soil load and against most enteric viruses.     

The effect of hair care products on dandruff

Although the role of micro-organisms located on the surface of the scalp is disputed by some authors, lipolytic organisms within the hair follicle may still be implicated in the causation of dandruff. Scale formation appears to be an adaptive response to threshold scalp irritation, taking the form of minimal parakeratosis possibly induced by products of lipolysis permeating thin regions of the horny layer. No single pathogen is yet clearly identifiable but effective anti-dandruff compounds display good antimicrobial activity against the typical lipolytic scalp microflora; this activity is retained in the presence of sebum and a feature of the most efficacious anti-dandruff agents is their good substantivity to the epidermal horny layer.
L'action des produits capillaires sur les pellicules     

In vivo transepidermal water loss and skin surface hydration in assessment of moisturization and soap effects

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface water loss (SSWL) and water content of the stratum corneum are utilized to assess the hydration effects of moisturizers and soaps. The relationship among these parameters may help differentiating hydration obtained via occlusion or by water-holding in the stratum corneum. Furthermore, skin function (hydration, dehydration, barrier damage) can be studied comparing the data obtained with these techniques. In this study, the effects of glycerol, petrolatum, soaps and commercial moisturizers on the skin are investigated and discussed.     

Fatty acid sulphoalkyl amides and esters as cosmetic surfactants

A review is given of the manufacture, properties and applications of the anionic surfactants commonly known as taurates and isethionates (fatty acid sulphoalkyl amides and esters, respectively). Originally developed in the 1930s for textile processing, these surfactants are used increasingly in the cosmetic field, particularly those derived from coconut fatty acid. Both types are produced from sodium isethionate, HO°C₂H₄SO₃Na. The acyl isethionate, R°COO°C₂H₄SO₃Na, is obtained by reaction with a fatty acid (‘direct process’). or fatty acid chloride (‘indirect process’). The direct process is cheaper but requires extreme conditions which can lead to discoloration of the product and a loss of shorter chain fatty acid components. The N-methyl-N-acyltaurate, R°CON(R¹)C₂H₄SO₃Na, is obtained by Schotten-Baumann reaction of a fatty acid chloride with N-methyltaurine, which is derived from sodium isethionate via methylamine. Taurates and isethionates retain the benefits of the soaps to which they are structurally similar, but chemical modifications have eliminated many undesirable features. Thus they combine good detergency and wetting with high foaming, and maintain their performance in hard or salt water. Taurates are stable to hydrolysis over the whole pH range. Isethionates are prone to hydrolysis at high (>8) or low (<5) pH, but this does not normally present a problem in cosmetic formulations. Above all, these surfactants are characterized by their extreme mildness to skin. Syndet and syndet/soap bars based on isethionate can be formulated at neutral pH (‘Dove type’bars) instead of the alkaline pH of soap, and have been shown in various studies to be milder than soap and better tolerated by the young, the old and those with sensitive skins. Similarly, isethionates have been shown to be less irritating than other anionic or amphoteric surfactants used in cosmetics. The difference has been related to the negligible effect of isethionate on the water-binding capacity of stratum corneum. Other cosmetic applications besides toilet bars include shampoos (excellent cleaning, mild to scalp, some hair conditioning effects), liquid soaps (mild for all-over body use), bubble baths (copious stable foam, efficient lime soap dispersal, low irritancy), skin creams and lotions (emulsification, alleviation of ‘dry skin’), baby care products (ultra-mild cleansing bars and milks, impregnated baby wipes) and oral products (foaming agents with low toxicity for toothpastes and mouthwashes).     

Outbreaks where food workers have been implicated in the spread of foodborne disease. Part 9. Washing and drying of hands to reduce microbial contamination

During various daily activities at home and work, hands quickly become contaminated. Some activities increase the risk of finger contamination by pathogens more than others, such as the use of toilet paper to clean up following a diarrheal episode, changing the diaper of a sick infant, blowing a nose, or touching raw food materials. Many foodborne outbreak investigation reports have identified the hands of food workers as the source of pathogens in the implicated food. The most convenient and efficient way of removing pathogens from hands is through hand washing. Important components of hand washing are potable water for rinsing and soaps to loosen microbes from the skin. Hand washing should occur after any activity that soils hands and certainly before preparing, serving, or eating food. Antimicrobial soaps are marginally more effective than plain soaps, but constant use results in a buildup of the antimicrobial compound on the skin. The time taken to wash hands and the degree of friction generated during lathering are more important than water temperature for removing soil and microorganisms. However, excessive washing and scrubbing can cause skin damage and infections. Drying hands with a towel removes pathogens first by friction during rubbing with the drying material and then by wicking away the moisture into that material. Paper rather than cloth towels should be encouraged, although single-use cloth towels are present in the washrooms of higher class hotels and restaurants. Warm air dryers remove moisture and any surface microorganisms loosened by washing from hands by evaporation while the hands are rubbed together vigorously; however, these dryers take too long for efficient use. The newer dryers with high-speed air blades can achieve dryness in 10 to 15 s without hand rubbing.     

Inhibitory effects of laminaran and low molecular alginate against the putrefactive compounds produced by intestinal microflora in vitro and in rats

The inhibitory effects of laminaran and low molecular weight sodium alginate (MW = 49,000) against formation of ammonia, indole compounds and phenol compounds, putrefactive and harmful compounds, induced by human fecal microflora, were examined in vitro. Laminaran was fermented to acetate, propionate, n-butyrate and lactate. The alginate was fermented to acetate and propionate. Both of these polysaccharides inhibited formation of the putrefactive compounds. In the case of rats fed diet containing 2% (w/w) laminaran or low molecular alginate, the fermentation pattern agreed with that of the in vitro experiment. Laminaran suppressed indole, p-cresole and sulfide, significantly. These putrefactive compounds, in rats fed low molecular alginate, also tended to be lower. These results suggest that the fermentation of laminaran by intestinal bacteria suppresses the putative risk markers for colon cancer.     

Irritancy ranking of 31 cleansers in the Indian market in a 24-h patch test

Cleansing trends promise freshness, sensory and health benefits but may also be accompanied by an increase in soap-induced skin irritation. The aim of this study was to evaluate the irritant effect of 31 cleansers (28 bar soaps and 3 liquid cleansers) available in the Indian market. Eight percent w/v solutions of the soaps/cleansers were made and 30 microL of each of the solutions were applied to Finn chambers and occluded for 24 h along with distilled water (negative control) and 20% sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS) as positive control. The sites were graded for erythema and scaling 30 min after removing the patches. The pH of each of the soap solutions was determined. Mean with SD and ANOVA (F-value) was computed separately for each soap/cleanser with respect to the two parameters, erythema and scaling. The total of the means for both the parameters, erythema and scaling was also computed. The cleansers were listed based on this total from the least irritant to the most irritant. The differences between soaps (F-value) was significant for erythema and scaling [erythema = 4.106 (P = 0.000); scaling = 6.006 (P = 0.000)]. Cetaphil cleansing lotion had the lowest erythema score of 0.25. Lowest scaling score of zero was recorded for Cetaphil cleansing lotion and Elovera moisturizing body wash. Aquasoft and Lifebuoy soaps had the highest erythema score of 2.13. Acnex had the highest scaling score of 1.75; Aquasoft, Hamam scrub bath soap and Naturepower sandal soaps were the next with a scaling score of 1.63. Cetaphil cleansing lotion, Aquaderm liquid soap, Dove bar soap and Elovera moisturizing body wash proved to be the least irritant cleansers with a total score of less than 1. The four most irritant soaps/cleansers had an average score of 3.65. The irritant potential of the majority of the cleansers fell between these extremes. The pH of all the soap/cleanser solutions was neutral to alkaline (pH 7-9) except that of Dove bar, Cetaphil cleansing lotion, Aquaderm liquid soap and Elovera moisturizing body wash which tested acidic (pH 5-6). The pH of the positive control--20% SDS, was acidic (pH 6). The difference in the irritancy potential between soaps/cleansers as determined by the 24-h patch test was significant. There were individual variations in the irritant potential of the soaps/cleansers in the volunteers, thus when the patient queries on what soap to use, it may be advisable to test each patient separately and educate him/her regarding the soaps/cleansers less likely to cause irritation. The limitations of the study was that it was single blind and non-randomized as all the 14 soap solutions were applied on 15 volunteers in the first panel and subsequently all the 17 soap solutions were applied on eight volunteers in the second panel. However, we could compare the irritant potential of 31 cleansers. The results of 24-h patch testing of 31 soaps/cleansers in the Indian market in two panels of 14 and 17 soaps/cleansers on 15 and eight volunteers, respectively, are presented.     

Reduction of acrylamide content of ripe olives by selected additives

A model system based on alkali-treated olive juice heated at 121 °C for 30 min was used to screen different additives (salts, amino acids, antioxidants) for potential inhibition of acrylamide formation in ripe olives. The most-efficient inhibitors found were sodium bisulphite, l-cysteine, and l-arginine. These compounds, as well as other sulphur-containing compounds (N-acetyl-l-cysteine, reduced glutathione, methionine) and several natural products (tea, oregano, rosemary, garlic), were then added to black ripe olives prior to sterilisation to evaluate their effect on both the acrylamide content and the sensory quality of olives. Sodium bisulphite had the highest impact on the acrylamide level in black ripe olives without a negative repercussion on sensory quality. Arginine and blanched garlic showed promising results. SH-containing compounds such as l-cysteine, N-acetyl-l-cysteine, or reduced glutathione were as effective as sodium bisulphite in reducing acrylamide, but did generate unpleasant off-flavours.     

纯棉针织物小浴比染色用活性染料的筛选

选取染色生产中常用的6种代表性的活性染料,即三原色BF型染料、活性橙HF-2RX、活性翠蓝MZ-GR和活性黑HD-001,采用吸收光谱法研究温度和元明粉及纯碱用量对其溶解聚集性能的影响;分析了各染料的直接性、移染性、匀染性、易洗涤性等染色性能。结果表明,活性黄BF-RR、活性红BF-RR和活性蓝BF-BRN适合小浴比染色。     

Effects of intraruminal infusion of sodium,potassium, and ammonium on hypophagia from propionate in lactating dairy cows

The objective of this experiment was to evaluate effects of salt type on hypophagic effects of intraruminal infusion of propionate in lactating dairy cows. Our working hypothesis is that oxidative metabolism of propionate causes satiety by increasing hepatic ATP concentration and decreasing the discharge rate of the hepatic vagus. We hypothesized that hypophagic effects of propionate are reduced by ammonium and potassium. We speculated that ammonium infusion lowers hepatic ATP concentration because ATP is used for urea synthesis and potassium increases the discharge rate of the hepatic vagus. Eight ruminally cannulated Holstein cows in midlactation were used in a duplicated 4 x 4 Latin square design experiment. Treatments were intraruminal infusion of propionic acid, ammonium propionate, sodium propionate, and potassium propionate. Treatment solutions were 0.93 M for propionate and 0.67 M for salts among the treatments except for propionic acid. Treatment solutions were infused over 14 h starting 2 h before feeding at 17.9 ml/min, which is equivalent to 16.7 and 11.9 mmol/min for propionate and salts, respectively. Infusion of ammonium propionate decreased dry matter intake compared with sodium propionate and potassium propionate (P < 0.04; 11.0 vs. 14.0 and 13.9 kg/12 h) by decreasing meal frequency without affecting meal size, indicating that ammonium delayed the sense of hunger. No difference in DMI and feeding behavior was observed between infusion of sodium and potassium propionate. Contrary to the hypothesis, ammonium infusion did not reduce hypophagic effects of propionate, possibly because the urea cycle indirectly stimulated oxidative metabolism in the liver by generating oxidizable carbon from amino acid catabolism.     

Effect of calcium on fatty acid bioaccessibility during in vitro digestion of Cheddar-type cheeses prepared with different milk fat fractions

Calcium plays an important role in intestinal lipid digestion by increasing the lipolysis rate, but also limits fatty acid bioaccessibility by producing insoluble Ca soaps with long-chain fatty acids at intestinal pH conditions. The aim of this study was to better understand the effect of Ca on the bioaccessibility of milk fat from Cheddar-type cheeses. Three anhydrous milk fats (AMF) with different fatty acid profiles (olein, stearin, or control AMF) were used to prepare Cheddar-type cheeses, which were then enriched or not with Ca using CaCl₂ during the salting step. The cheeses were digested in vitro, and their disintegration and lipolysis rates were monitored during the process. At the end of digestion, lipids were extracted under neutral and acidic pH conditions to compare free fatty acids under intestinal conditions in relation to total fatty acids released during the digestion process. The cheeses prepared with the stearin (the AMF with the highest ratio of long-chain fatty acids) were more resistant to disintegration than the other cheeses, owing to the high melting temperature of that AMF. The Ca-enriched cheeses had faster lipolysis rates than the regular Ca cheeses. Chromatographic analysis of the digestion products showed that Ca interacted with long-chain fatty acids, producing Ca soaps, whereas no interaction with shorter fatty acids was detected. Although higher Ca levels resulted in faster lipolysis rates, driven by the depletion of reaction products as Ca soaps, such insoluble compounds are expected to reduce the bioavailability of fatty acids by hindering their absorption. These effects on lipid digestion and absorption are of interest for the design of food matrices for the controlled release of fat-soluble nutrients or bioactive molecules.