A Study of the Mechanical Properties of Woven Silk Fabrics. Part I: Fabric Mechanical Properties and Handle Characterizing Woven Silk Fabrics

In order to investigate the soft handle of woven silk fabrics, their basic tensile, bending, shearing, compressional, and surface properties were measured on the KESF system. Fabric shear, compressional, and tensile properties distinguish continuous-filament silk fabrics from fabrics of other fibres. Shear stiffness and hysteresis in shear force are very small, and these fabrics are very deformable in their compressional and tensile properties at small strain levels.

High values of FUKURAMI are a characteristic of continuous-filament woven silk fabrics.     

Changes in the Mechanical Properties and Fabric Handle of Polyester-fibre Fabrics Through the Finishing Stages

The basic mechanical properties and fabric handle of the polyester-fibre fabric called ‘Shingosen’ were pursued through the finishing stages by an objective-evaluation method developed by Kawabata and Niwa, using the KES-FB system. The effects of the finishing stages were clarified as follows. The polyester-fibre fabric is remarkably softened in all its mechanical properties and fabric handle by the stage of relaxing, which includes desizing, shrinking of fibres, and relaxing of the internal residual stress of the fabric. The polyester-fibre fabric becomes increasingly soft at the following weight-reduction stage because of the ‘effective gap’ between fibres and/or yarns and the splitting of fibres. However, the effects of dyeing and raising are small. By using discriminant analysis with the primary hand values as variables, it is considered that bere is a distinctive zone of fabric handle for silk-like and peach-skin-type polyester-fibre ‘Shingosen’ fabric.     

重磅真丝绸抗弯刚度与织物紧度的关系研究

对重磅真丝绸的抗弯度刚度进行了测试分析,结果表明：紧度与抗弯刚度具有线性正相关关系。得出了重磅真丝绸的抗弯刚度与总紧度线性发方程式。     

绉纹整理对真丝织物机械性能的影响

对绉纹整理整理前后的真丝电力纺机械性能进行了较全面的测试。结果表明：整理后织物的变形能力、弹性、湿态折皱弹必玫耐疲劳性能明显提高,丝线强力降低;织物强力随着经纬密度增幅大小的不同,而呈现出增高或降低两种相反的变化趋势。整理后耐磨性增强,但较容易出现局部集中磨损现象。     

Features of Mechanical Properties and Fabric Handle of Silk Weaves

Basic mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compressional, and surface properties of each classified silk weave were measured by the KES-FB system, and fabric handle was obtained by the objective-evaluation method developed by Kawabata and Niwa. These values were examined and compared with those of typical thin dress fabrics. The discriminant analysis was used to distinguish each silk group clearly by primary hand values. The main features of fabric handle of each classified silk weave are as follows. Silk Habutae has high KOSHI and KISHIMI and low SHARI. Silk Dechine shows high SHINAYAKASA and low HARI. Silk Georgette has good SHINAYAKASA, but poor HARI and FUKURAML. Silk Fujiginu has a slightly high KISHIMI and a slightly low SHARI. High KOSHI and HARI with low SHINAYAKASA are distinctive features of silk Chirimen. Silk Shantung has higher KOSHI and HARI and lower SHINAYAKASA.     

A Study of the Mechanical Properties of Woven Silk Fabrics. Part II: Analysis of the Shearing Properties of Woven Silk Fabrics

The gap between the warp and weft threads at their crossover points in woven silk fabrics is responsible for the very low values of shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear force in these fabrics. The existence of this gap is proved by using shear–deformation theory and making experiments on silk fabric. A quantitative determination of the gap is obtained by using strip–biaxial–extension experiments and measuring the retardation strain. The gap observed for woven silk fabrics is 6–7 μm. Since microscopical observation of the cross–section of silk fabrics does not show the gap, the gap measured by mechanical methods is called an “effective gap”. The gap has a strong effect on the mechanical properties of silk fabrics, especially their shear properties. It also emphasizes the good handle of silk fabrics.     

活性染料上染真丝染色性能的研究

本文主要研究了企业常用的活性染料在丝绸染色中的各项染色性能.其中包括染色温度,染ph值,盐的用量等因素时活性染料上染丝绸的影响,并测定了多种活性染料的染色牢度,为工厂大试生产提供理论依据.     

Lyocell纤维强伸性及其对织物性能的影响

对Acordis公司和Lenzing公司的 4种商业化纤维 (Tencel、TencelA10 0、LenzingLyocell和LenzingLyocellLF)的性能进行比较。结果表明Lenzing公司的产品具有较低的初始模量和较高的断裂伸长率 ,但干折皱弹性略差 ,对水和碱处理更敏感     

丝素蛋白凝胶修饰膜及其理化性能探讨

用溶液氧化法制备了丝素蛋白凝胶修饰聚氨酯膜,考察了反应前后聚氨酯膜的物理性质和生物相容性。结果表明：修饰后的聚氨酯膜的表面亲水性明显提高,其力学性能和透气性与聚氨酯底膜基本接近,修饰膜克服了纯丝素膜刚而脆的弱点;体外血小板黏附试验和细胞培养实验结果表明了经修饰后,聚氨酯膜的生物相容性明显提高且界面的处理效果是稳定的。     

HBP-QAC改性蚕丝织物活性染料无盐染色

采用环氧氯丙烷与三乙胺对端氨基超支化聚合物进行改性,制备部分端基为季铵盐的超支化聚合物(HBP-QAC)改性剂,并对蚕丝织物进行阳离子改性。讨论HBP-QAC用量、Na2CO3用量、温度及时间对改性蚕丝织物活性染料无盐染色性能的影响。得到较佳的改性工艺:改性剂HBP-QAC用量5g/L,Na2CO3用量1g/L,温度50℃,时间40min,浴比1∶50。测试结果表明:改性蚕丝织物采用活性染料无盐染色,可获得与未改性蚕丝织物常规染色相当的K/S值和染色牢度。     

A Study of the Mechanical Properties of Woven Silk Fabrics. Part III: A Study of the Extensibility of Continuous-filament Woven Silk Fabrics in the Small-load Region

Continuous–filament woven silk fabrics have a very low tensile modulus in the small-load region compared with woven fabrics of other fibres having a similar structure. In the silk fabrics, there may exist a small gap between the warp and weft threads at their crossover points because of the sericin-removing treatment that is applied after weaving. The tensile behaviour of a fabric with such a gap is considered to consist of two stages. In the first stage, the bent yarn alone is stretched in the initial state of tensile deformation without any mechanical interactions between the warp and weft threads. Since the bending rigidity of silk yarns is small and the gap is relatively large, the tensile modulus of silk fabrics becomes very low in the initial tensile region. After the contact of the warp and weft threads, the soft lateral-compressional property of the silk threads leads to extensibility of the silk fabric. This stage is called here the second stage, in which the tensile and the lateral-compressional deformation properties are mainly concerned with the tensile behaviour of the fabric in this region. Silk–fibroin fibre has a small fibre crimp, and this crimp also makes the silk yarn compressible. In this paper, the extensibility of silk fabrics is analysed, with a theoretical estimation of the extensibility, and an experiment to explain the reason for the high extensibility of silk fabrics is reported.     

真丝织物化学接枝改性后的结构和热性能

利用红外光谱、扫描电镜、热重分析 ,对具有 β -乙烯砜硫酸酯基、磺酸基和三嗪环结构的接枝剂改性后真丝织物的结构和热性能进行研究表明 ,纤维表面发生明显改变 ,真丝织物热稳定性提高     

用戊二酸酐提高丝绸的抗泛黄和抗皱性能

提供了有关改进丝绸皱性和泛黄性的信息。用戊二酸酐对改良丝绸进行了研究，并发现戊二酸基化作用能够阻止由高能量辐射而引起的丝绸泛黄，在增加丝绸的抗皱性方面也更加有效。     

氨纶机织物性能与缝纫质量关系的研究

提出上层伸长率、移位率、线迹密度和线迹延伸度 4个缝纫质量评价指标 ,研究了氨纶弹力机织物的内在品质与缝纫质量之间的关系 ,用多元逐步回归分析对各指标的影响因素进行了研究。     

真丝织物规格与弹性伸长率关系的研究

以经向紧度,纬向紧度,组织系数,捻系数等作为回归因子,求得织物弹性伸长率与上述回归因子的回归方程,揭示了织物规格与织物弹性的内在联系。     

重磅真丝绸压缩性能的测试及探讨

对重磅真丝绸压缩性能进行测试 ,探讨了影响压缩功、压缩弹性、压缩率、表观厚度的有关因素     

织物结构参数对真丝绉类织物风格特性影响的研究

以8种真丝绉类织物为研究对象,测试了其光泽度、表观厚度、剪切刚性和弯曲刚度等4种风格特性参数,采用逐步多元回归方法建立多元回归方程,分析织物结构参数对织物风格特性的影响.结果显示,真丝绉类织物可以通过对经纬线密度、经纬捻度和捻向的不同设置和排列组合,配合不同的织物组织,构造出多样化的绉类织物;同时,织物的光泽度随着织物的组织系数、捻度的增加而减小,织物的组织系数、紧度的增加使织物的表观厚度增大,织物的弯曲刚度随着织物的平方米质量增加而增大,随着捻度的增加而降低,而织物的剪切刚性随着织物的平方米质量、组织系数、紧度的增加而增大.研究结果为真丝产品的结构参数设计提供参考.     

添加剂对柠檬酸整理真丝织物性能的影响

在柠檬酸整理真丝织物时加入三乙醇胺、甲酸、聚乙二醇、四硼酸钠等添加剂和渗透剂、柔软剂，可以提高整理织物的白度和机械性能。