Further Progress on the Abrasion Kinetic Modelling of Woven Fabrics Using the Martindale Abrasion Tester

Abstract

The abrasion behaviour of thirty-nine woven fabrics made of wool, polyester and cellulosic (viscose and flax) fibre blends has been measured using the Martindale wear and abrasion tester. The abrasion resistance has been assessed through the number of cycles needed to produce yarn breakage. The abradability has been measured by the rate of weight loss per 1000 abrasion cycle (kcy). A cumulative distribution of weight loss versus abrasion cycles has been plotted using the weight loss produced at 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% of the number of cycles needed for yarn breakage. The plot shows the abrasion kinetic and a third degree polynomial model has been used to fit it. The first derivative at the origin gave the initial abradability or rate of mass loss (mg/kcy). A very high negative correlation between the number of abrasion cycles to produce yarn breakage and the mean abradability has been observed. The abrasion resistance depends on the fabric type, the woollen fabrics being the less abrasion-resistant while the worsted ones showed higher abrasion resistance. Abrasion kinetics depends on fabric sett, interlacing weave and composition. Closed fabrics with high sett levels, interlacing weaves and polyester content, showed a concave abrasion kinetic while open fabrics with higher content of wool and/or cellulosic fibres showed a convex abrasion kinetic. Using regression analysis, the most relevant fabric parameters related to the abrasion resistance were fabric composition, thickness and the weave interlacing coefficient.     

Weight reduction of microfibre polyester fabric and the effect on its physical and mechanical properties

For the present work, a heat‐set microfibre polyester woven fabric was treated with five different sodium hydroxide concentrations in similar conditions. Their physical and mechanical properties were studied and discussed. Changes in eight properties due to the weight reduction, i.e. surface properties, tear strength, crimp, compression, pressure recovery, crease recovery, abrasion and weave density which are reported in this work were not available for any type of weight reduced polyester fabrics in the cited literature. Results show that the weight reduction decreases yarn and fabric strength, fabric abrasion resistance, fabric tear strength and bending stiffness. On the other hand, it increases fabric thickness under low pressure, crease recovery angle, air permeability and drape of the fabric. The treatment showed no significant effect on the surface properties of the samples.     

Comparison of compression properties of stretchable knitted fabrics and bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments

Stretchable fabrics have diverse applications ranging from casual apparel to performance sportswear and compression therapy. Compression therapy is the universally accepted treatment for the management of hypertrophic scarring after severe burns. Mostly stretchable knitted fabrics are used in compression therapy; but in the recent past, some studies have also been found on bi-stretch woven fabrics being used as compression garments as they also have been found quite effective in the treatment of edema. Therefore, the objective of the present study is to compare the compression properties of stretchable knitted and bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments. For this purpose, four woven structures and four knitted structures were produced having same areal density and their compression, comfort and mechanical properties were compared before and after 5, 10 and 15 washes. The four knitted structures used were single jersey, single locaste, plain pique and honeycomb, whereas the four woven structures produced were 1/1 plain, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill and 4/1 twill. The compression properties of the produced samples were tested by using kikuhime pressure sensor and it was found that bi-stretch woven fabrics possessed better compression properties before and after washes and retain their durability after repeated use, whereas knitted stretchable fabrics lost their compression ability after repeated use and the required sub-garment pressure of the knitted structures after 15 washes was almost half that of woven bi-stretch fabrics.     

An investigation into the effect of fabric structure on the compressional properties of woven fabrics

Lateral compression is one of the most important mechanical aspects of fabrics, which reflects their handle. Fabric compressional features depend on the compressional characteristics of constituent yarns and the fabric structure. In order to consider the effect of fabric structural parameters on its compressional properties, woven fabrics with five different weave patterns (plain, hopsack 2/2, twill 2/2, twill 3/1, warp rib 2/2) were produced with three different nominal weft densities (12, 15, 18 cm^?1). The compressional properties of produced fabrics were evaluated at different pressure values using a conventional fabric thickness tester. It was observed that increasing the weft density leads to decrease in the dissipated compression energy as well as the compressibility of the fabric, while the thickness recovery of the fabric increases. Moreover, the plain woven fabric exhibited the lowest dissipated compression energy and compressibility, while the highest thickness recovery. Besides, at the low pressure level, the fabrics with the lower weft densities demonstrate the higher thickness. By increase in the pressure level, the fabric thickness decreases by decreasing the weft density.     

Cut resistance of hybrid para-aramid fabrics for protective gloves

This paper deals with cut resistance of hybrid woven para-aramid fabrics tested according to the appropriate clause of EN 388 – “Protective Gloves against Mechanical Risks”. Abrasion, puncture and tear resistance properties of the fabrics were also measured. The experimental sample set was plain-woven fabrics made of hybrid yarns composed of staple para-aramid fibres with different core/sheath ratios of various filaments in their structure. The effects of core/sheath ratio and core filament type were investigated. The results revealed that decreasing core–sheath ratio of the hybrid yarns led to the increase in weight and thickness, resulting in improved cut, abrasion and puncture resistance properties. It was confirmed that cut resistance increased with the increase in thickness and weight of the fabric. Para-aramid/Dyneema® fabric had higher cut, abrasion and puncture resistance properties.     

Effects of spandex drawing ratio and weave structure on the physical properties of cotton/spandex woven fabrics

In this experimental study, we investigated the effects of spandex filament drawing ratio and weave structures on the properties of cotton/spandex woven fabrics. One-way analysis of variance was used to explore the significant effects of the independent variables on the fabric properties. A regression analysis was also used to derive regression relationships between each of fabric properties and spandex filament drawing ratio. Our findings show that the spandex drawing ratio and structures of the woven fabrics significantly affect the physical and mechanical properties of the cotton/spandex woven fabrics. Cotton woven fabrics containing spandex show higher contraction, crease recovery, and flexural rigidity with increasing spandex drawing ratio, whereas the rest of fabric properties decreases with the increasing drawing ratio. Because of higher contraction and then higher weight, thickness, and cover factor of cotton/spandex fabrics, unexpected results of fabric air permeability and breaking elongation were detected.     

The Progressive Deterioration of Textile Materials Part IV: The Effect of Accelerotor Abrasion on the Comfort Properties of Fabrics

An investigation is reported in which the changes in various physical and mechanical properties of a range of fabrics made from different fibres after subjection to abrasion in the Accelerotor tester for various periods of time were observed. As expected, abrasion causes disintegration of fibre, yarn, and fabric structures, but differences are found in its effect on the various properties studied between the different fabrics.     

色织窗帘布的设计与性能测试

文章采用变换织物组织、色纱排列、织物密度进行产品设计来表现色织窗帘布的风格和特征,并对设计的窗帘面料进行了主要的性能测试、最后通过性能的对比研究得出了影响色织窗帘面料性能的因素。     

Surface roughness properties of polyester woven fabrics after abrasion

Effect of abrasion on surface roughness properties of textured polyester woven fabrics has been investigated. The effects of weft density, weft yarn filament number, fiber fineness, and weave pattern on surface roughness after abrasion were studied. Surface roughness values of control fabric (not abraded) and abraded fabrics after four different abrasion cycles were discussed according to different constructional parameters. Surface roughness values of fabrics changed according to abrasion cycles and the changes were related to yarn float lengths, yarn densities, yarn fiber fineness, and initial fabric surface roughness. A general overview of the results showed that abrasion eliminated the effect of texture especially at the fabric samples with initially high surface roughness. The surface roughness of fabrics with initially high surface roughness decreased at a greater extent than the ones with low surface roughness after abrasion. Fabrics with high surface roughness were affected more by abrasion and the effect of abrasion on rough surfaces depended on different manners regarding the compactness of woven structures.     

影响真丝织物悬垂性及耐磨性因素的分析

通过对6种真丝织物的基本结构参数及悬垂系数和磨损量的测试,应用灰色关联分析方法对织物基本结构参数与悬垂性、耐磨性能之间的关系进行定性和定量的分析.实验结果表明:真丝织物的平方米重、纬密、经纱纤度、厚度、纬纱纤度、经密对悬垂性能的影响依次减小,而对耐磨性能的影响大小依次是纬密、纬纱纤度、经纱纤度、平方米重、经密、厚度.     

The effect of water repellency finishing on selected performance properties of upholstery fabrics produced from chenille yarns

Abstract

This study presents an evaluation of the effect of water-repellency finishing on the performance of upholstery fabrics manufactured from chenille yarns. Six different chenille yarns were manufactured as samples using piles made from three different raw materials (polyester, acrylic and viscose) and with two different heights. Then, six upholstery fabrics were woven used these chenille yarns in the weft direction and keeping all other weaving parameters fixed. Water repellency finishing was applied at 60% and 80% impregnation ratios using fluorocarbon-based finishing chemicals. The samples were tested for abrasion resistance and water repellency properties according to the standards. The results were evaluated statistically and graphically. The samples were analyzed before and after the abrasion process using a scanning electron microscope. As a result of the tests, water repellency of all the samples increased as expected after the finishing process. It was observed that the water repellency finish affected the abrasion resistance positively for all raw materials. Thus, the mass loss of the finished samples after the abrasion was less than that of the nonfinished samples. But, after the abrasion process, the water repellency of the samples was affected negatively.     

不同皮肤与织物的摩擦性差异

为探明皮肤与织物间的摩擦特性对性别和人体参数的依赖性,选择10名男性和10名女性志愿者,利用织物-皮肤摩擦测试仪实测了1组机织物和1组针织物与志愿者前臂内侧皮肤的摩擦特性。研究发现,布面平整细匀的织物与男、女性皮肤的动摩擦力具有统计意义上的显著性差异,女性皮肤与织物的动摩擦力明显大于男性。皮肤与织物动摩擦力的平均差不匀率在性别差异上基本没有统计意义上的显著性差异。此外,在20～30岁年龄段内,人体的身高、体重、年龄和体重指数对织物和皮肤间的动摩擦力及其差不匀率均没有显著性影响。     

基于面料性能的合体针织上装结构设计优化

文章从合体西装和连衣裙结构设计角度出发,分析探讨针织与机织面料性能的差异,以及性能差异对服装外观和合体性的影响,并进行样板修正。实验选择典型机织平纹织物和针织圆纬衬垫织物为服装面料,对其进行硬挺度、悬垂性、拉伸弹性的测试,制作165/88A的西装和连衣裙样衣,对比分析服装横向维度、纵向长度以及斜向部位的尺寸差异,探讨面料不同性能对成衣上身尺寸的影响。实验结果表明:针织西装的肩部位置易发生变形,可适当将肩点内收0~0.3 cm,背宽内收0~0.4 cm;对于纵向尺寸较大的针织服装如连衣裙等,使用288.03 g/m2左右的面料时可在0~1 cm范围内缩短上衣长及裙长;结合针织面料横、纵和斜向的弹性伸长率可得到各部位样板的优化尺寸,即机织样板尺寸×各部位的尺寸变化率。     

Surface roughness properties of wool woven fabrics after abrasion

Effects of abrasion on surface roughness properties together with appearance of woven wool fabrics have been investigated. The effects of weft yarn count, weft yarn density, and weave pattern on fabric surface roughness after abrasion were researched. Surface roughness values of control fabric (not abraded) and abraded fabrics after four different abrasion cycles were discussed according to different fabric constructional parameters. It was observed that the greatest decreases in surface roughness values after abrasion were observed in loose fabric structures which had the highest initial fabric surface roughness values (coarse yarn, low yarn density, and low yarn intersection). The results showed that change of roughness properties of wool fabric surfaces after abrasion depends on the initial surface roughness values and on the amount of contact area of fabrics based on the fabric constructional parameters.     

Mechanical Properties of Composite Panels Reinforced with Integrally Woven 3-D Fabrics

An investigation is reported in which six three-dimensional cellular fabrics were designed and woven. They consisted of two facings connected by an integrally woven sinusoidal core. In lateral compression, the ratio of the cell-repeat distance to the fabric thickness determines the resistance of the fabrics to buckling. Composite panels were fabricated by impregnating the fabrics with resin. Formulae developed allow the cross-sectional area and second moments of area of the panels to be calculated. Tensile tests were performed on the panel facings and whole structures to measure the Young's moduli and strengths in the longitudinal (weft) and transverse (warp) directions. Flexural tests were made to measure the beam flexural rigidities. The structural analysis of the beam sections together with the tensile properties of the beams enables flexural properties to be accurately predicted. The properties of the 3-D beams in flexure are comparable to those of other engineering materials, but the fabric-based, cellular composites will have advantages as components in composite structures.     

石墨烯黏胶纤维机织物的功能改性研究

制备同规格的普通黏胶纤维机织物、石墨烯黏胶纤维机织物及不同不锈钢丝质量分数的石墨烯黏胶纤维/不锈钢丝机织物,对比它们的导电、防电磁辐射、防紫外线、抗静电、力学(拉伸、弯曲、耐磨)及透气等性能。结果表明:普通黏胶纤维经石墨烯改进后,所制成的石墨烯黏胶纤维机织物的导电、防电磁辐射、防紫外线、抗静电、力学(拉伸、弯曲、耐磨)等性能都有所改善,其中防紫外线与耐磨性能提高显著,透气性能下降明显;石墨烯黏胶纤维/不锈钢丝机织物的导电、防电磁辐射、防紫外线和抗静电、经向拉伸断裂强力、纬向抗弯刚度、透气性能都优于石墨烯黏胶纤维机织物,纬向拉伸断裂强力、经纬向拉伸断裂伸长率、经向抗弯刚度及耐磨性能不及石墨烯黏胶纤维机织物;随着不锈钢丝质量分数在7.0%~20.0%范围内的增加,石墨烯黏胶纤维/不锈钢丝机织物的导电、防紫外线、抗静电、经向拉伸断裂强力、纬向抗弯刚度及透气性能增强,纬向拉伸断裂强力、经纬向拉伸断裂伸长率、经向抗弯刚度、耐磨性能减小,不锈钢丝质量分数变化对防电磁辐射性能影响较小。当不锈钢丝质量分数为7.0%时,石墨烯黏胶纤维/不锈钢丝机织物的综合性能最佳。     

A Study of the Mechanical Properties of Woven Silk Fabrics. Part I: Fabric Mechanical Properties and Handle Characterizing Woven Silk Fabrics

In order to investigate the soft handle of woven silk fabrics, their basic tensile, bending, shearing, compressional, and surface properties were measured on the KESF system. Fabric shear, compressional, and tensile properties distinguish continuous-filament silk fabrics from fabrics of other fibres. Shear stiffness and hysteresis in shear force are very small, and these fabrics are very deformable in their compressional and tensile properties at small strain levels.

High values of FUKURAMI are a characteristic of continuous-filament woven silk fabrics.     

水洗过程对织物性能和外观的影响

研究了水处理对织物外观和部分织物性能的影响。织物选用由两种不同线密度的纱线(分别为29.5tex和19.7tex)制备的20块平纹棉针织物,水处理(0、5、15和25次水洗)之后,测试对织物舒适度和美学性能有重要影响的一些织物性能(即织物厚度、透气性、抗起毛起球和耐磨牢度)的变化。结果表明,5次水洗过程对所测织物的厚度、透气性和磨损性的影响最大。     

Investigation of the relation between surface roughness and friction properties of polyester fabrics after abrasion

This paper focused on the investigation of surface roughness and friction properties of polyester fabrics after abrasion. Experiments were performed on polyester woven fabrics produced from the same yarns in warp and weft directions but with different constructional properties. Surface roughness parameters of amplitude, spacing and hybrid, along with static and kinetic coefficients of friction were measured before and after multiple abrasion cycles. Abrasion was used in order to change the surface characteristic (peak and valley heights and depths and their distributions) in such a way by forming ruptured fiber ends under the control of abrasion. Measurements were made along warp, weft, and diagonal directions. The results showed that roughness parameters decreased numerically as abrasion cycles increased and as ruptured fiber ends formed. Static and kinetic coefficients of friction changed in different manners when measurements were performed along warp and weft directions. It was concluded that initial and resultant peak heights and valley depths together with their distribution on fabric surface govern roughness and friction properties of surfaces in opposite ways. Roughness parameters of skewness and kurtosis could be further considered in the research of friction properties of textile surfaces.     

玄武岩包芯织物的制备及吸声性能

针对玄武岩纤维集束性差且可纺可织性低的缺点,使用涤棉纤维与玄武岩纤维制备3种线密度的赛络包芯纱线,并测试其基础性能。分别使用3种纱线织制平纹、蜂巢2种不同组织的机织物,探讨不同材料、厚度及排列方式对于织物吸声效能的影响。结果表明:所纺不同线密度包芯纱的质量均良好稳定,不同材料中包芯玄武岩织物的平均吸声性能最好;玄武岩平纹织物叠加到厚度3 mm的吸声性能时良好,但随着厚度增加,中低频吸声系数稍有下降;将2种组织织物交替复合的方式形成不同梯度的多孔结构,可显著提高织物的吸声性能,低中频的平均吸声系数在0.2以上,高频吸声系数可达0.7。