Use of regression methods for determining the relation between theoretical–linear and spectrophotometrical colour values of bicolour woven structures

In this paper, new approaches for evaluating the entire colour effect of optical mixing of bicolour woven structures are presented. Simple woven structures with constant colour in the warp direction and different colours in the weft direction were prepared and analysed. The constructional parameters of these woven fabrics were systematically changed, which resulted in the variations of the fractions of colour components and, consequently, also in the changes of colour properties (lightness, hue, chroma) of bicolour optical mixtures. The position of colours of the bicolour structures and the approximate direction (linear) of colour changes in CIELAB colour space were theoretically determined with a simple geometrical model and additive method. Furthermore, the bicolour optical effects were determined spectrophotometrically. The differences between the linear–theoretical and the spectrophotometrical colour values of bicolour woven fabrics were mathematically analysed with linear and non‐linear regression methods to determine the positions of colour coordinates L*, a* and b* of bicolour woven fabrics in the a*b* plane by increasing or reducing the cover factors of warp and weft threads (addition or reduction of colour components). The results present, on the one hand, the strong influence of original colours of warp and weft threads and, on the other hand, the minor influence of constructional parameters on the form of linear/non‐linear behaviour of colours of bicolour compositions. When the characteristics of a specific colour combination are taken into account, the spectrophotometrical colour values of bicolour woven fabrics can be also mathematically determined with additive–theoretical colour values and, to some extent, with predictable colour deviations.     

Establishment of a color tolerance for yarn-dyed fabrics from different color-depth yarns

Yarn-dyed fabric is often woven from warp and weft yarns in the same color depth to ensure a uniform color appearance. The difference in color depth between warp and weft tends to result in the uneven color of the yarn-dyed fabric. This article aims to establish a color tolerance for yarn-dyed fabric that can be woven with a qualified color appearance but from the warp and weft yarns in different color depths. A total of 27 yarn-dyed fabric samples in three color series (red, yellow, and blue) were evaluated by using the yarn-dyed fabric from warp and weft yarns in the same color depth of 2% (on weight of fabric, owf) as the standard. Visual assessment and instrumental measurement of color were carried out to establish the color tolerance ellipse that was defined as CMC (Color Measurement Committee) color differences (2:1) of no more than 1.00. It was found that the color strengths (K/S) and color differences (ΔE_CMC(2:1)) of these fabric samples for each color series had linear relationships with the color depths of warp and weft yarns. The color tolerance ellipses indicated that, even though the warp and weft yarns had an apparent color difference, they could be woven in fabrics with relatively uniform color appearance and meet the requirements for yarn-dyed fabric. This work provided valuable insight into the production of qualified yarn-dyed fabrics from unqualified dyed yarns.     

A novel method for weft and warp yarn segmentation in multicolour yarn‐dyed fabric images

This paper proposes a novel method for segmentation of weft and warp yarns in multicolour yarn‐dyed fabric images. A multicolour yarn‐dyed fabric is cross‐woven by weft and warp yarns with different colours. When a multispectral imaging system is used to measure the colour of a multicolour yarn‐dyed fabric image, its weft and warp yarns need to be detected before analysing their colours. Detection of interstices between weft and warp yarns is firstly conducted. A modified K‐means clustering approach is then utilised to separate weft and warp yarns. The number of clusters is fixed to 2. The metric to measure the distance between a pixel and the mean of a cluster is the CIELAB colour difference. The initial means are determined by the expected values of fitted Gaussian distributions to CIExyY colour histograms. Experimental results show that the proposed method is promising for the segmentation of weft and warp yarns in multicolour yarn‐dyed fabrics, with an improved segmentation accuracy and much faster processing speed than K‐means clustering in CIEXYZ and CIELAB spaces.     

Optimal yarn colour combination for full‐colour fabric design and mixed‐colour chromaticity coordinates based on CIE chromaticity diagram analysis

It is challenging for textile designers to achieve full‐colour effects in woven fabric using a limited set of coloured yarns. The common problems encountered during full‐colour fabric design include an insufficient number of colours and a failure to match the fabric colour with the desired colour. Using the theories of primary colours and optical colour mixing, we examine the mixed‐colour distribution of primary colour yarns on the basis of the CIE 1976 chromaticity diagram (CIE u′v′). In our experiment, dope‐dyed polyester filament yarns were selected as raw materials. Eight kinds of gradually varied weave structures and four types of primary colour combination were adopted in order to make different types of full‐colour fabric colour chart. Spectrophotometer and DigiEye colour measurement systems were selected to measure the reflectance and colour value of the fabric samples. By comparing the colour distribution of mixed fabrics in the CIE u′v′ diagram, the relationship between the primary colour combinations and the colour distribution of mixed fabrics is discussed. Of RGB, CMY, NCS, and RGBCMY combinations, only RGBCMY resulted in a relatively complete and large colour gamut. Moreover, the colour positions of mixed fabrics in the CIE u′v′ diagram were almost all distributed on or near the connecting line of the primary colour coordinates. The specific colour position of mixed fabrics in the CIE u′v′ diagram were mainly determined by the proportion of primary colours on the fabric surface. In this way, a new method for computing colour position in the CIE u′v′ diagram is introduced.     

The colour properties of polyester/cotton knitted fabrics coated with poly(N‐vinyl‐2‐pyrrolidone)

The objective of this research was to investigate the use of crosslinked poly(N‐vinyl‐2‐pyrrolidone) (PVP) to coat polyester/cotton knitted fabric, without adversely affecting its dyeing properties. Before dyeing, the knitted fabrics were tested for bursting strength to assess the influence of the coating on their resistance. The dyeing parameters were evaluated as the exhaustion (%), K/S value, colour difference (ΔE), relative strength (RS %) and colour fastness to washing. Bursting strengths were 9.4 for coated and 9.7 kgf cm^?2 for uncoated knitted fabric samples, confirming an insignificant loss in resistance. In the evaluation of K/S, ΔE and RS%, the values for the samples with the highest concentration of PVP were the most different to those for the standard sample. The colour fastness showed satisfactory results indicating that neutralisation and washing after dyeing were effective. These results could lead to increased quality in the textile industry, adding value to products.     

Pretreatment of cotton fabrics with polyamino carboxylic acids for salt‐free dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes

In this study, polyamino carboxylic acids have been used to improve the dyeability of cotton in a salt‐free reactive dyeing process. These polyamino carboxylic acids were prepared by partial carboxylation of polyvinylamine. Cotton fabric was pretreated with polyamino carboxylic acids and dyed with reactive dyes. The colour strengths of the dyed fabrics were evaluated by measuring the K/S values. The fastness properties (washing, rubbing and light fastness) of the dyed cotton fabrics were also measured. The pretreatment of cotton with polyamino carboxylic acids creates positive charges on the fabric surface. In this way, salt‐free reactive dyeing of cotton or dyeing with only a small amount of electrolyte is possible.     

Determining the dependence of colour values on yarn structure

The colour values of knitted cotton fabrics made from single and plied ring and compact yarns were investigated before and after dyeing. The fabric samples were knitted under the same constructional properties and then dyed with direct and reactive dyes. It was found that fabrics with ring yarns had high lightness and low chroma and colour strength values compared with fabrics with compact yarns. Also colour strength and colour difference values of dyed fabrics were assessed after increasing abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500 and 10 000). The main changes in colour strength values were observed at 2500 abrasion cycles. The effect of abrasion on colour difference values of fabrics having ring yarns was more obvious than fabrics having compact yarns.     

The quasi‐yarn‐dyed effect: triple dyeing of woven polyester/cationic dyeable polyester/viscose rayon blend fabrics by chemical treatments in the laboratory and on a pilot and an industrial scale

The aim of this study was to carry out triple dyeing of woven polyester/cationic dyeable polyester/viscose rayon blend fabrics with the required colour fastness and physical properties. The feel and final appearance of the fabric were achieved by partial removal of the viscose rayon moiety of the fabric through optimised causticisation treatments. The results of the triple dyeings obtained from laboratory and small‐scale experiments were successfully scaled up in authentic processing equipment. The final product, which has a yarn‐dyed effect, readily satisfied the requirements related to the colour fastness and physical properties.     

Textile applications of photochromic dyes. Part 4: application of commercial photochromic dyes as disperse dyes to polyester by exhaust dyeing

A series of commercial photochromic dyes was applied to polyester fabric as disperse dyes. The photocoloration properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated by applying techniques previously established in our laboratories using an independent source of ultraviolet irradiation and traditional colour measurement instrumentation. The dyed fabrics showed reversible photochromism, developing pronounced colours from weak background colours on irradiation with ultraviolet light and returning to their original state when the ultraviolet light source was removed. However, the extent of photocoloration and the depth of background colour varied significantly with the particular dye used. The dyeing procedure was optimised by maximising the degree of photocoloration, expressed as the colour difference (ΔE₁) between the colour developed after ultraviolet exposure and background colour, while minimising the background colour, expressed as the colour difference (ΔE₂) between unexposed dyed and undyed fabrics. Optimum dyeing concentrations were determined. The colour development and fading properties, fatigue resistance and storage stability of the dyed fabrics were investigated.     

Three‐dimensional color prediction modeling of single‐ and double‐layered woven fabrics

In this research, the three‐dimensional structural and colorimetric modeling of three‐dimensional woven fabrics was conducted for accurate color predictions. One‐hundred forty single‐ and double‐layered woven samples in a wide range of colors were produced. With the consideration of their three‐dimensional structural parameters, three‐dimensional color prediction models, K/S‐, R‐, and L*a*b*‐based models, were developed through the optimization of previous two‐dimensional models which have been reported to be the three most accurate models for single‐layered woven structures. The accuracy of the new three‐dimensional models was evaluated by calculating the color differences ΔL*, ΔC*, Δh°, and ΔE_CMC(2:1) between the measured and the predicted colors of the samples, and then the error values were compared to those of the two‐dimensional models. As a result, there has been an overall improvement in color predictions of all models with a decrease in ΔE_CMC(2:1) from 10.30 to 5.25 units on average after the three‐dimensional modeling.     

Assessing colour values of polyester fabrics produced from fibres having different cross-sectional shapes after abrasion

This study assesses the colour, colour difference and colour strength values obtained for eight disperse-dyed polyester fabric samples produced from full and hollow round and trilobal fibres after four sets of abrasion cycle. Each fabric was produced from the same yarns in warp and weft directions. The L *, C *ΔE^*_ab and K/S values of the undyed fabrics and dyed fabrics before and after increasing cycles of abrasion are presented and discussed. Fabrics produced from full and hollow fibres showed great differences regarding colour values in abrasion behaviour. Fabrics produced from hollow fibres were found to be very sensitive to increasing abrasion cycles.     

Electrostatic self‐assembly dyeing of cotton fabrics

A new approach to the dyeing of cotton fabrics using an electrostatic self‐assembly method was evaluated. Cotton fabrics were pretreated with 2,3‐epoxypropyltrimethylammonuium chloride and cationic charges were produced on the fabric surfaces. For the dyeing of cotton fabric, reactive and acid dyes were used. Oppositely charged anionic reactive/acid dyes and cationic poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride) were alternately deposited on the surface of cationised cotton fabrics. Ten multilayer films of dye/poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride) were deposited on the cotton fabric surfaces using a padder. The build‐up of the multilayer films and the level of colour strength (K/S) achieved are discussed. Samples of cotton fabrics were also dyed with the same dyes, but using the exhaust method, and both types of dyed samples were compared. The washing, rubbing and light fastness properties were evaluated for the dyed fabrics.     

Improving the colour fastness of dyed nylon‐6 fabric by graft copolymerisation and curing of acrylic acid

The influence of grafting and grafting–curing of acrylic acid on the colour fastness of nylon‐6 fabric dyed with an acid dye of low wash fastness was investigated. The variables involved in grafting were initially optimised for pristine nylon‐6 fabric prior to grafting the same monomer onto the dyed fabrics. The highest graft yield achieved for the pristine and dyed nylon‐6 fabrics was 44 and 14% respectively. Grey scale testing and colorimetric analysis revealed that the highest colour fastness and the smallest drop in colour strength belonged to the dyed–grafted–cured nylon‐6 fabric. The colour components were measured, and the total colour difference of each sample after five washing cycles was computed. The specific colour difference showed that the implementation of either grafting or grafting–curing processes will alter the reference colour of the dyed fabric. The tensile strength of the grafted and grafted–cured fabrics was respectively 2.7 and 6.3% lower than that of dyed nylon‐6.     

A method for dyeing cotton fabric with anthocyanin dyes extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits

For the first time, the natural anthocyanin dyes (mainly consisting of cyanidine 3‐glycoside) extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits has been successfully used to dye cotton fabric, with a dyeing property performance good enough for potential commercial applications. In this study, succinic acid was firstly incorporated into cotton fabrics by esterification to the hydroxyl groups of cellulose, forming an anionic site for the dyes. The performance of the modified material was characterised by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and tensile strength. Results showed that the tensile strength of cotton fabrics was mostly retained after modification. The anthocyanin extracts from mulberry fruits were used to study the dyeability of the control and modified cotton fabrics. Red and deep purple (aubergine) are two main shades of cotton fabrics dyed with mulberry fruit extracts. Most importantly, aubergine shade is rare in cotton fabrics dyed with natural dyes. Modification with succinic acid clearly increased the colour strength of the dyed cotton fabric. The colour strength of dyed cotton fabric was improved from 2.7 to 5.3 in the case of dyeing without mordants, and from 3.2 to 6.9 in the case of dyeing with tin mordanting. Meanwhile, the colour fastness was improved by 0.5–2 grades with increasing succinic acid concentration in the finish solution. The colour fastness to perspiration, crocking, light, and washing of fabric dyed with simultaneous tin mordanting and modified with 30 g l^?1 of succinic acid was found to be acceptable, with a grey scale grade of at least 3. As for home laundering, neutral soapy solution was more acceptable than alkaline soapy solution.     

Effect of reactive dyeing on the UV protection affected by knitted fabric made from different types of cotton fibre

In this study, 100% cotton knitted fabrics made from combed cotton and combed pima cotton were dyed with reactive dye, with different dye concentrations. Colour properties such as CIE L*a*b* values as well as dyeing uniformity of the dyed fabrics were measured. The relationships between colour properties and the ultraviolet protection afforded by cotton knitted fabrics were investigated. Experimental results revealed that dye concentration is the most important factor. In addition, only L* values have a direct mathematical relationship with the ultraviolet protection factor; a* and b* values and dyeing uniformity were not found to have a significant correlation with ultraviolet protection factor values. Meanwhile, knitted fabric made from combed cotton fibre has better ultraviolet protection performance than fabric made from combed pima cotton fibre.     

An efficient method for solid‐colour and multicolour region segmentation in real yarn‐dyed fabric images

This paper presents an efficient approach to solid‐colour and multicolour region segmentation in real yarn‐dyed fabric images. The approach is based on a novel model describing the spectral response of a multispectral imaging system to yarn‐dyed fabrics. The model indicates that solid‐colour regions cannot be distinguished from multicolour regions in terms of reflectance, tristimulus, or CIELAB values owing to a geometric term representing the influence of fabric surface condition on measured colours. The geometric term makes it difficult to determine the segmentation thresholds of CIEXYZ and CIELAB colour histograms. However, solid‐colour and multicolour regions can be detected in CIExyY space because chromaticity coordinates are impervious to the geometric term. The CIExyY histograms of a solid‐colour region accord with one Gaussian distribution, but those of a multicolour region accord with a combination of two Gaussian distributions. The CIEXYZ, CIELAB, and CIExyY colour distributions of both solid‐colour and multicolour yarn‐dyed fabrics were analysed in detail in simulation and real experiments. Experimental results show that solid‐colour yarn‐dyed regions can be distinguished from multicolour yarn‐dyed fabric regions by the shapes of CIExyY histograms, but cannot be distinguished by the shapes of CIEXYZ or CIELAB histograms.     

A novel strategy to improve the dyeing properties in laccase-mediated coloration of wool fabric

Enzymatic coloration of fabrics has received worldwide attention in recent years. In order to improve the dyeing properties of enzymatically coloured fabrics, a novel strategy using 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)carbodiimide hydrochloride (EDC), a biological coupling agent, to pretreat wool fabric was employed in this paper. Enzymatic coloration of wool fabrics with syringic acid was carried out in the presence of laccase from Trametes versicolor. The effect of different periods on laccase-catalysed polymerisation of syringic acid was examined by UV-vis spectroscopy. Enzymatic coloration results of dyed wool fabrics were evaluated by means of K/S value and colour difference (∆E*). Process parameters, including the dosages of syringic acid and incubation time, that influenced the colour depth were studied. Meanwhile, the colour fastness and levelness of dyed wool fabrics were tested. The results showed that the UV-vis absorbance of reaction solution increased as oxidation time elapsed, and a new peak appeared at 360 nm. After pretreatment, the K/S values and colour difference values of wool fabrics dyed with poly(syringic acid) improved appreciably compared with the control samples without any pretreatment. Moreover, pretreated wool fabrics showed better dyeing fastness and levelness than control samples.     

One‐step dyeing of polyethylene terephthalate fabric,combining pretreatment and dyeing using alkali‐stable disperse dyes

In the conventional dyeing process, polyester and its blended fabrics are usually dyed in a weak acidic medium. In order to reduce cost and improve production efficiency, a new dyeing method – one‐step dyeing of polyethylene terephthalate fabrics, combining pretreatment and dyeing in alkali conditions – was investigated. The alkali‐stable disperse dyes Red 900, Red 902, Yellow BROB and Blue 825 were used to dye polyethylene terephthalate fabrics. The dyeing properties of polyethylene terephthalate fabrics in the case of one‐step dyeing at various pH values or sodium hydroxide concentrations were discussed in terms of colour yield, colour parameters and fastness. The performance of one‐step dyeing using alkali‐stable disperse dyes was excellent. The dyed fabric had good fastness. Wet processing could be combined and shortened. One‐step dyeing of polyethylene terephthalate fabrics could reduce the consumption of water and energy and improve production efficiency. One‐step dyeing of polyethylene terephthalate has potential application in cleaner textile production.     

Color prediction models for digital Jacquard woven fabrics

The current industry practice for producing jacquard fabrics uses computer‐aided design (CAD) systems that provide visual simulations of the final color appearance of actual fabrics prior to production. This digital process is fundamentally based on the prediction of combined weave‐color effects, which can be successfully achieved by accurate color mixing models and the structural details of the fabrics. With the accurate models used in CAD systems, designers would see simulations more closely resembling fabrics to be produced. By checking the previews, the designers can easily modify, that is, recolor, the designs on the display monitor without doing repetitive physical sampling with the adjustment of the weaves and the yarn colors. However, there is no ready applicable accurate color mixing model for woven structures and there has not been sufficient investigation of the color prediction despite its usefulness for the current digital CAD process. Our study investigated the, color prediction of jacquard woven fabrics designed based on the principle of optically subtractive color mixing with the use of CMY colors. The color prediction was firstly done through the application of the six color mixing models previously developed for various other applications including fiber blending and printing. The performance of each model was evaluated by calculating the difference between the predicted and the measured colorimetric data, using ΔE_CMC(2:1). The average color difference from the models was 11.93 ΔE_CMC(2:1), which is hardly acceptable in textile industry. In order to increase the accuracy in color prediction, the six models were then optimized. As a result, substantial improvements for all models were obtained with a decrease in color difference to 4.83 ΔE_CMC(2:1) on average after the optimizations. Among the six optimized color mixing models, the optimized Warburton‐Oliver model, that is, W‐O model, was found to have the lowest average ΔE_CMC(2:1) value of approximately equaling to 2, which is considered potentially useful to be applied to the current digital fabric color prediction. © 2015 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. Col Res Appl, 41, 64–71, 2016     

Investigation on colour,fastness properties and HPLC‐DAD analysis of silk fibres dyed with Rubia tinctorium L. and Quercus ithaburensis Decaisne

Silk fabric samples were dyed according to the various procedures using madder (Rubia tinctorium L.) and walloon oak (Quercus ithaburensis Decaisne) extracts. The colour coordinates, K/S, as well as wash, light, rub and perspiration fastness values were determined. A reversed‐phase high‐performance liquid chromatography with diode‐array detection was utilised for the identification of the components of dyes present in the dyed fabrics and in the plant extracts.