Numerical simulation of the internal wave propagation in continuously densitystratified ocean

A numerical model is proposed to simulate the internal wave propagation in a continuously density-stratified ocean, and in the model, the momentum equations are derived from the Euler equations on the basis of the Boussinesq approximation. The governing equations, including the continuity equation and the momentum equations, are discretized with the finite volume method. The advection terms are treated with the total variation diminishing （TVD） scheme, and the SIMPLE algorithm is employed to solve the discretized governing equations. After the modeling test, the suitable TVD scheme is selected. The SIMPLE algorithm is modified to simplify the calculation process, and it is easily made to adapt to the TVD scheme. The Sommerfeld＇s radiation condition combined with a sponge layer is adopted at the outflow boundary. In the water flume with a constant water depth, the numerical results are compared to the analytical solutions with a good agreement. The numerical simulations are carried out for a wave flume with a submerged dike, and the model results are analyzed in detail. The results show that the present numerical model can effectively simulate the propagation of the internal wave.     

Application of CLEAR-VOF method to wave and flow simulations

A two-dimensional numerical model based on the Navier-Stokes equations and computational Lagrangian-Eulerian advection remap-volume of fluid (CLEAR-VOF) method was developed to simulate wave and flow problems. The Navier-Stokes equations were discretized with a three-step finite element method that has a third-order accuracy. In the CLEAR-VOF method, the VOF function F was calculated in the Lagrangian manner and allowed the complicated free surface to be accurately captured. The propagation of regular waves and solitary waves over a flat bottom, and shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on two different slopes were simulated with this model, and the numerical results agreed with experimental data and theoretical solutions. A benchmark test of dam-collapse flow was also simulated with an unstructured mesh, and the capability of the present model for wave and flow simulations with unstructured meshes, was verified. The results show that the model is effective for numerical simulation of wave and flow problems with both structured and unstructured meshes.     

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF SOLITARY WAVE RUN-UP AND OVER-TOPPING USING BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODEL

In this article,the use of a high-order Boussinesq-type model and sets of laboratory experiments in a large scale flume of breaking solitary waves climbing up slopes with two inclinations are presented to study the shoreline behavior of breaking and non-breaking solitary waves on plane slopes.The scale effect on run-up height is briefly discussed.The model simulation capability is well validated against the available laboratory data and present experiments.Then,serial numerical tests are conducted to study the shoreline motion correlated with the effects of beach slope and wave nonlinearity for breaking and non-breaking waves.The empirical formula proposed by Hsiao et al.for predicting the maximum run-up height of a breaking solitary wave on plane slopes with a wide range of slope inclinations is confirmed to be cautious.Furthermore,solitary waves impacting and overtopping an impermeable sloping seawall at various water depths are investigated.Laboratory data of run-up height,shoreline motion,free surface elevation and overtopping discharge are presented.Comparisons of run-up,run-down,shoreline trajectory and wave overtopping discharge are made.A fairly good agreement is seen between numerical results and experimental data.It elucidates that the present depth-integrated model can be used as an efficient tool for predicting a wide spectrum of coastal problems.     

Revisiting study on Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation over various reef profiles

To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional （1D） Boussinesq wave model. The model is based on higher-order Boussinesq equations and a higher-accuracy finite difference method. The dominant energy dissipation in the surf zone, wave breaking, and bottom friction were considered by use of the eddy viscosity concept and quadratic bottom friction law, respectively. Numerical simulation was conducted for a wide range of wave conditions and reef profiles. Good overall agreement between the computed results and the measurements shows that this model is capable of describing wave processes in the fringing reef environment. Numerical experiments were also conducted to track the source of underestimation of setup for highly nonlinear waves. Linear properties （including dispersion and shoaling） are found to contribute little to the underestimation; the low accuracy in nonlinearity and the ad hoc method for treating wave breaking may be the reason for the problem.     

Modeling of random wave transformation with strong wave-induced coastal currents

The propagation and transformation of multi-directional and uni-directional random waves over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features are studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory investigation indicates that wave energy convergence and divergence cause strong coastal currents to develop and inversely modify the wave fields. A coastal spectral wave model, based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction effect （WABED）, is used to simulate the transformation of random waves over the complicated bathymetry. The diffraction effect in the wave model is derived from a parabolic approximation of wave theory, and the mean energy dissipation rate per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking is parameterized by the bore-based formulation with a breaker index of 0.73. The numerically simulated wave field without considering coastal currents is different from that of experiments, whereas model results considering currents clearly reproduce the intensification of wave height in front of concave shorelines.     

PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OF WAVES ON SLOPING BEACH

In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidalwave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMACmethod,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracingmethod.The.numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with experimentaldata,and the breaker indexes depending on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previ-ous results.Furthermore,compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and bythe authors,the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numericalmethod is also satisfactory.     

A PRACTICAL MODEL FOR THE DECAY OF RANDOM WAVES ON MUDDY BEACHES

A practical model has been developed for the propagation and decay of random waves on muddy beaches. In the model, an irregular wave train is characterized by its root-mean-squared wave height, mean wave frequency and mean wave direction. It is also assumed that the wave spectrum is narrow-banded in terms of both frequency and direction. Transformation of root-mean-squared wave height is derived from the conservation of energy flux for individual wave components. Energy dissipation is considered due to both wave breaking and the dynamics response of muddy seabed. The model is applied to waves on the muddy beach at Hangzhou Bay, and the numerical results obtained are shown to be acceptably accurate as comparing with available field data.     

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF TURBULENT FREE SURFACE FLOW OVER OBSTRUCTION

A two-dimensional hybrid numerical model, FEM-LES-VOF, for free surface flows is proposed in this study, which is a combination of three-step Taylor-Galerkin finite element method, large eddy simulation with the Smagorinsky sub-grid model and Computational Lagrangian-Eulerian Advection Remap Volume of Fluid （CLEAR-VOF） method. The present FEM-LES-VOF model allows the fluid flows involving violent free surface and turbulence subject to complex boundary configuration to be simulated in a straightforward manner with unstructured grids in the context of finite element method. Numerical simulation of a benchmark problem of dam breaking is conducted to verify the present model. Comparisons with experimental data show that the proposed model works well and is capable of producing reliable predictions for free surface flows. Using the FEM-LES-VOF model, the free surface flow over a semi-circular obstruction is investigated. The simulation results are compared with available experimental and numerical results. Good performance of the FEM-LES-VOF model is demonstrated again. Moreover, the numerical studies show that the turbulence plays an important role in the evolution of free surface when the reflected wave propagates upstream during the fluid flow passing the submerged obstacle.     

URANS simulations of ship motion responses in long-crest irregular waves

In this paper, numerical prediction of ship motion responses in long-crest irregular waves by the URANS-VOF method is presented. A white noise spectrum is applied to generate the incoming waves to evaluate the motion responses. The procedure can replace a decade of simulations in regular wave with one single run to obtain a complete curve of linear motion response, considerably reducing computation time. A correction procedure is employed to adjust the wave generation signal based on the wave spectrum and achieves fairly better results in the wave tank. Three ship models with five wave conditions are introduced to validate the method. The computations in this paper are completed by using the solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU, a solver developed for ship and ocean engineering based on the open source code OpenFOAM. The computational motion responses by the irregular wave procedure are compared with the results by regular wave, experiments and strip theory. Transfer functions by irregular wave closely agree with the data obtained in the regular waves, showing negligible difference. The comparison between computational results and experiments also show good agreements. The results better predicted by CFD method than strip theories indicate that this method can compensate for the inaccuracy of the strip theories. The results confirm that the irregular wave procedure is a promising method for the accurate prediction of motion responses with less accuracy loss and higher efficiency compared with the regular wave procedure.     

Numerical simulation of shallow-water flooding using a two-dimensional finite volume model

A 2-D Finite Volume Model (FVM) is developed for shallow water flows over a complex topography with wetting and drying processes. The numerical fluxes are computed using the Harten, Lax, and van Leer (HLL) approximate Riemann solver. Second-order accuracy is achieved by employing the MUSCL reconstruction method with a slope limiter in space and an explicit two-stage Runge-Kutta method for time integration. A simple and efficient method is introduced to deal with the wetting and drying processes without any correction of the numerical flux term or the source term. In this new method, a switch of alternative schemes is used to compute the water depths at the cell interface to obtain the numerical flux. The model is verified against benchmark tests with analytical solutions and laboratory experimental data. The numerical results show that the model can simulate different types of flood waves from the ideal flood wave to cases over complex terrains. The satisfactory performance indicates an extensive application prospect of the present model in view of its simplicity and effectiveness.     

三孤立波的斜坡爬高特征

该文采用推板式造波机和改进的Goring造波方法在波浪水槽中生成了由三个等波高孤立波组成的波列,首先在坡度为1/10的斜坡上进行了多个孤立波连续爬高的实验研究。实验测量了等波高双孤立波和三孤立波在等水深波浪水槽中传播和在斜坡上的爬高过程,给出了沿程多点浪高仪测量的波面时间序列和高速摄像记录的水线在斜坡上爬高与回落过程影像。分析了来波相对波高和无量纲波峰间距对每个孤立波爬高放大系数的影响。在基于RANS方程和VOF方法的数值波浪水槽中,模拟了三孤立波爬高过程,给出了最大爬高与破碎特征。实验和数值模拟结果表明,孤立波在斜坡上回落时会产生强劲的回流水流,该反向流动导致后随孤立波破碎,消耗波动能量,使得后随孤立波的爬高放大系数明显小于没有回落水流影响的首个孤立波的爬高放大系数。当孤立的波峰间较大时,若来波相对波高较小,后两个的孤立波爬高基本相同;若来波相对波高较大时,第三个孤立波的爬高大于第二个孤立波的爬高。     

改进的非线性波传播数值模型的验证和应用

基于吸收入射边界上反射波的方法,并通过将统一边界条件表达式推广到适应不规则波的情况,改进了非线性波传播的数值模型.将利用模型的线性版本(略去非线性项)所计算得到的台阶地形上波浪的反射和透射系数与相应的解析解进行了定量比较.在斜坡地形上数值模拟了不规则波的传播,并将数值结果和物理模型实验值进行了比较.在下游边界分别为开边界和全反射边界的等水深的水槽内数值模拟了不规则波的传播变形,讨论了非线性作用的影响.在侧边界和下游边界均为全反射的固壁边界、二维的等水深水域内,数值模拟了波浪斜向入射时所产生的波浪变形.计算结果表明,对上述各种算例,改进后的非线性波传播数值模型均能进行有效地数值模拟.     

LARGE EDDY SIMULATION FOR PLUNGING BREAKER WAVE

1 .　INTRODUCTIONInthenear shoreregion ,aswavespropagateintoshallowwater ,theprocessofshoalingleadstotheincreaseofwaveheight ,however ,thisprocesscannotcontinue ,andatacertain positionthewavebreaks .Inpractice ,breakingwavesarepow erfulagentsforgeneratingturbulence ,whichplaysanimportantroleinmostofthefluiddynamicalprocessesthroughoutthesurfzone ,suchaswavetransformation ,generationofnear shorecurrent ,diffusionofmaterials ,andsedimenttransporta tion .Manynumericalstudieshavebeenconductedt…     

基于SWASH模型的近岸波浪传播变形数值模拟

SWASH模型是一种新型的非静压时域波浪模拟。为了探讨SWASH模型对于解决近岸波浪传播变形问题的适用性,在对其控制方程、边界条件、数值解法等进行介绍的基础上,采用该模型分别模拟了正向规则波、斜向规则波和斜向不规则波入射条件下L形防波堤附近水域的波浪场和波生流场,并与物理试验结果进行对比。结果表明,SWASH模型较好地复演了波浪在近岸区域所发生的浅水变形、折射、破碎,以及堤前反射、堤内绕射等物理现象,波高沿断面的定量分布与试验结果吻合良好,同时较好地模拟了不同波况下防波堤附近水域的波生流场,说明该模型适用于复杂岸线和地形条件下波浪传播变形的数值模拟。     

倾斜底坡上波浪的传播与破碎

本文根据TUMMAC方法探讨了孤立波、微幅波和二阶Stokes波在1/30底坡上的传播与破碎,并采用示踪法测得了相同底坡上濒临破碎波的速度场。与前人的实验结果相比较表明,计算所得的波浪外形变化是一致的,依据运动学标准所得的各项破碎指标也大致相同;与岩垣及本文实验结果比较表明,速度的分布趋势也是一致的。     

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF TWO-DIMENSIONAL OVERTOPPING AGAINST SEAWALLS ARMORED WITH ARTIFICIAL UNITS IN REGULAR WAVES

A new mathematical model for the overtopping against seawalls armored with artificial units in regular waves was established. The 2-D numerical wave flume, based on the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations and the standard k-ε turbulence model, was developed to simulate the turbulent flows with the free surface, in which the Volume Of Fluid (VOF) method was used to handle the large deformation of the free surface and the relaxation approach of combined wave generation and absorbing was implemented. In order to consider the effects of energy dissipation due to the armors on a slope seawall, a porous media model was proposed and implemented in the numerical wave flume. A series of physical model experiments were carried out in the same condition of the numerical simulation to determine the drag coefficient in the porous media model in terms of the overtopping discharge. Compared the computational value of overtopping over the seawall with the experimental data, the values of the effective drag coefficient was calibrated for the layers of blocks at different locations along the seawalls.     

TESTS AND APPLICATIONS OF A BOUSSINESQ MODEL WITH AMBIENT CURRENT

A new type Boussinesq model is proposed and applied for wave propagation in a wave flume of uniform depth and over a submerged bar with current present or absent, respectively. Firstly, for the propagation of monochromatic incident wave with current absent, the Boussinesq model is tested in its complete form, and in a form without the introduction of utility velocity variables. It is validated that the introduction of utility velocity variables can improve the characteristics of velocity field, dispersion and nonlinearity. Both versions of the Boussinesq models are of higher accuracy than the fully-nonlinear fourth-order model, which is one of the best forms among the existing traditional Boussinesq models that do not incorporate breaking mechanism in one dimension. Secondly, the Boussinesq model in its complete form is applied to simulating the propagation of bichromatic incident waves with current present or absent, respectively, and the modeled results are compared to the analytical ones or the experimental ones. The modeled results are reasonable in the case of inputting bichromatic incident waves with the strong opposing current present.     

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF EXTREME WAVE GENERATION USING VOF METHOD

Numerical simulations of extreme wave generation are carried out by using the Volume Of Fluid (VOF) method. Extreme waves are generated based on wave focusing in a 2-D numerical model. To validate the capability of the VOF-based model described in this article, the propagation of regular waves is computed and compared with the theoretical results. By adjusting the phases of wave components, extreme waves are formed at given time and given position in the computation. The numerical results are compared with theoretical solutions and experimental data. It is concluded that the present model based on the VOF technique can provide acceptably accurate numerical results to serve practical purposes.