A BRIEF INTRODUCTION OF JOURNAL OF SUZHOU INSTITUTE OF SILK TEXTILET TECHNOLOGY

《Jourual of Suzhou Institutc of Silk Tcxtilc Tccknology》is sponsored by Suzhou Institute of Silk Textile Technology.The journal offers two editions,one is edition in Chinese (quarterly book),thc other isedition in English(ycarly book).The journal of the first edition in Chinese bedgan in april,1981,the journal of thefirst edition in English began in Dec.1988.The Journal is a comprchensive acadcmic pcriodical featuring silk textilc,costumc sci-ence and technology.     

SUZHOU INSTITUTE OF SILK TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY GENERAL SURVEY

Suzhou Institute of Silk Textile Technology is under the direct leadershipof the Minstry of Textile Industry.It is located in xiangmen road,Suzhou,the home of silk and an ancient city of historical culture.It sboulders theresponsibility of training and bringing up senior qualified personnels,adv-anced in silk engineering and technology,dyeing and weaving designing,dressdesigning,industrial management and foreign trade for the whole country.     

BRIEF INTRODUCTION OF ACADEMIC ADVISORS OF THE JOURNAL CSUT

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A CORRECT APPROACH TO THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE QUALITY OF RAW SILK REELEDON AUTO-REELING MACHINE

The size deviation and the evenness of raw silk are the two maior inherentquality Indexes of raw silk.At present the grading of raw silk in our country ismostly done in the light of the second degree change of evenness High qualityraw silk is reeled on multi-end reeling machine.So a break through in controllingthe size deviation and evenness is of vital importance to enable auto-reelingmachine to reelhigh quality raw silk and thus win its popularization This paperStarts with theoretical analysis,go with brief on the experiments done formore than a year,on shortening the time of miss feeding to obtainsatisfactory results,and in the end gives a picture of the measures taken forimproving the qulity of auto-reeled raw silk.     

A BRIEF STUDY ON RINGS

A ring( Jie Zhi) ,also called a finger ring or a marriage ring,is named because it is wornround a finger.Although different nationalities and regions have different customs in form and con-tent, they have a lot in common.Today almost two- fifths of the people in the world wear rings,therefore it is necessary to study rings origin, shape and pattern variations,characteristics in differ-ent regions and to study stylistic similarities and differences between Western and Eastern rings.This article is to make a brief study rings concerning the above points.     

COMPREHENSIVE INTRODUCTION TO THE TECHNOLOGY OF GROUNDWATER MODELING AND OPTIMAL MANAGEMENT

Three numeric simulston and optimal managernent models on groundwater resources are introduced m this paper. These models stand for the present developing levels on the technology of groundwater modeling.and optimal management in China, and show the practical application situations of the technology. Each of the technology of unique characteristics and purposes. According to the tests of the practical engineering, these models have played a very important role in solving the difficult problems of groundwater resources.     

A SUDY ON THE DISCHARGEABILITY OF REACTIVE BLACK DYES ON SILK FABRIC

The relationship between the dischargeability and the struetures of reactive dyes havebeen discussed.Two dischargeable reactive black dyes for silk were designed and synthe-sized.which exhibit darker black shad.good wet fastness and excellent dischargeability onSilk。     

EFFECT OF ELASTOMER ON WRINKLE RECOVERY OF SILK AND SILK/WOOL BLEND FABRICS

An investigation is described in which various polyfunctional elastomers( cationic methylaminopolysiloxane,nonic concentrated glyoxal resin and anionicpolyurethane etc. ) were applied on silk,wool and silk/ wool blend fabrics forimprovement wrinkle recovery.A study on this paper describes wrinkle recovery oftreated fabrics by the thermobench method,and ascertains reason which elastomerimproves wrinkle recovery of silk and silk/ wool blend fabrics according as results ofthe DSC,the SEM and the acid or alkali resistance.     

A RESEARCH ON THE GRADATION THEORY IN THE SAMPLE INSPECTION OF RAW SILK

In this article, from the view point of establishing the estimatingcriterion of gradation reliability of sample inspection of raw silk,the fundamental relational formula between gradation reliabilityand sample size,as well as the parameters of grade intervals hasbeen derived;in accordance with the principle of uniformity inreliability in each grade,the supposed method in grade limitvalue of the same grade of raw silk is given.Finally,the criterionfor different specification indexes of raw silk of the same gradeare proposed.The above-mentioned results provided systematic,fundamental theory for the establishment of gradation standards insample inspections.     

THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN HIGH TEMPERATURE SCOURING TECHNIQUES OF HARD TWISTED SILK FABRIC AND SILK STRUCTURE

This paper deals with the effect of high temperature scouring andnormal scouring techniques on silk structure by viscosity and hydro-lysis methods.The results of the intrinsic viscosity (η) values and the crystallinity have shown that high temperature scouring results in lessdamage to fibroin than normal scouring does.The technologyical condition (PH,temperature,time,agents) of high temperature scouringhas been found out and the scouring quality is better.