26—THE FLOW OF LIQUID FROM A JET THROUGH A COMPRESSIBLE POROUS LAYER. PART I: ANALYSIS OF METHODS OF APPLYING A LIQUID TO FLOW THROUGH A POROUS LAYER

The volumetric rates of flow of a fluid through holes and porous layers when a uniform fluid pressure is applied are compared. An analysis is made of the comparative rates of flow of fluid through holes and porous layers when the application is by uniform pressure and by jets. It is shown that the fluid pressure near a hole located in a porous layer is less than the over-all applied pressure and that this accounts for less flow through the layer near the hole than occurs when the fluid is applied by a jet.     

35—A STUDY OF NEEDLED FABRICS: PART VII: THE TRANSFER OF FIBRES THROUGH THE WEB BY NEEDLING

An account is given of a study of the extent to which fibres were pulled through the web during needling that was made by incorporating one layer of coloured fibres at various positions in a 50-layer web. The number of needle locations at which tracer fibres appeared and the number and length of fibres were determined.

Further studies of the occurrence of interlocking loops on the surface of a needled fabric are reported.     

20—PURPOSE-GROWN WOOLS. PART I: MODIFICATION OF THE FELTING PROPERTIES OF WOOL THROUGH THE SHEEP'S FEED

A method is described whereby the shrinking property of wool can be modified during growth by the administration of chemical additives to the sheep's diet so as to enter the character of the fibre half-way through the growth of the staple. Thus, hard-root-soft-tip fibres can be grown to enhance shrinkage and soft-root-hard-tip fibres to impart shrink-resistance. Methods of modifying the shrinkage of wool have so far been confined to chemical treatments of the shorn fibre, but this original approach to shrinkage control also presents an opportunity for the mass production of a large variety of other types of special-purpose wools.     

34—A CONTRIBUTION TO THE STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF THE DESIGN OF THE YARN-WITHDRAWAL TUBE ON THE DIAMETER AND HAIRINESS OF OPEN-END-SPUN ACRYLIC-FIBRE YARNS

An investigation is reported in which factorial experiments were conducted to study the influence of the design of the yarn-withdrawal tube (or nozzle) on the diameter and hairiness of open-end-spun acrylic-fibre yarns. Three nozzle types, combined with three values of yarn linear density and five values of twist multiplier, were studied for four different (but equal-diameter) rotor types. lt is shown that the nozzle type has very little influence on yarn diameter but has a more significant effect on yarn-hairiness parameters. As the nozzle diameter increases, yarn hairiness also tends to increase, but, when the nozzle is grooved, an interaction is produced between yarn friction and the false twist generated that leads to a yarn that is less hairy when tested on the Digital ITQT Hairiness Meter. The principle of measurement of the apparatus used can lead to different results and trends when applied to this problem.     

4—THE USE OF C14 AS A TRACER TO DETERMINE THE MOVEMENT OF WATER AND SALT DURING THE DRYING OF A THICK BED OF TEXTILE MATERIAL

An account is given of experiments in which a dilute solution of potassium thiocyanate labelled with C¹⁴ was put into a thick bed of textile material to trace the movement of liquid water during drying. It was originally hoped that diffusion effects would be negligible, but it was found that the method actually gave more information on the factors governing the concentration gradients in the bed and on the mechanism of diffusion than on the water movement itself. In the depths of the bed, diffusion is less, and some tentative conclusions regarding water movement can be made, but these are open to considerable doubts.     

12—A CRITIQUE OF SOME HYPOTHESES RELATING TO THE HETEROGENEITY OF THE HIGH-SULPHUR PROTEINS OF WOOL

Joubert and Burns prepared a large number of fractions from the high-sulphur proteins of wool and estimated their molecular weights and amino-acid compositions. Their data have been re-examined in order to look for statistically significant interrelations between amino acids and between the proportion of various amino acids and molecular weight. Statistical analysis of the data is also used to examine the credibility of some hypotheses concerning the mechanism of keratin biosynthesis and to provide further evidence for the existence of families of proteins within the high-sulphur fractions of wool.     

18—A CONSIDERATION OF THE REAL MATURITY OF COTTON FIBRES

Maturity is an important fibre characteristic, which is related to the extent of development of the fibre wall Several methods exist to measure this characteristic, but all these methods are calibrated by starting from procedures that depend upon measurements made on swollen fibres, such as the ASTM or the BSI method.

In this paper the results of an investigation are given in which maturity was measured directly on cross-sections of unswollen fibres. The results are compared with those obtained by measurements on swollen fibres as well as with estimations of maturity made by two indirect instrumental methods (the Arealometer and the IlC-Shirley Fineness/Maturity Tester (FMT)), both of which use the double-compression air-flow technique.

It is concluded that microscopical measurements made on swollen fibres do not always adequately reflect the botanical maturity and that in any case the two instrumental methods are more reliable. Appropriate conversion formulae are given for estimating the true fibre maturity from both Arealometer and IlC-Shirley FMT readings.     

40—THE EQUILIBRIUM DISTRIBUTION OF VEGETABLE PARTICLES IN THE BEARD OF A WORSTED RECTILINEAR COMB

A mathematical model is presented that accounts for the distribution of vegetable particles in the beard of a rectilinear comb. The average advancement of a particle in a particular cross-section is dependent on the proportion of moving fibres and the time for which they move in that section.     

BPERSIST IN THE STRATEGY OF QUALITY ANDFAMOUS BRAND TO PUSH THE DEVELOPMENT OF LEATHER INDUSTRY TO A

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9—THE CONSISTENCY OF THE VALUATIONS OF GREASY WOOL BY SIX APPRAISERS IN A WOOL-BUYING FIRM

A study is made of the consistency of six woolbuyers' estimations of type, yield, and valuation of greasy wool. Parameters for consistency and accuracy are estimated and intra-class correlation coefficients used to rank the buyers within the firm. The results indicate that changes in greasy-price limits are influenced more by changes in type appraisal than by changes in yield estimation. The method is discussed as a means of regularly checking the standard and improvement of buyers in a firm.     

25—A TECHNIQUE FOR THE MEASUREMENT OF THE PUNCHING FORCE DURING NEEDLE-FELTING

An account is given of the use of a strain-gauge system to measure the force exerted on a single needle during the actual punching operation in needle-felting. The variation of this force with distance along the web, test-needle position in the board, web weight, needle penetration, web movement per loom cycle, and fibre orientation in the web is discussed.

Finally, an attempt is made to isolate the origin of the punching force and to explain relative values in terms of a known needled-fabric structure.     

33—THE STRENGTH OF COTTON FIBRES AND THE DEGREE OF DEVELOPMENT OF THE SECONDARY WALL

A comparative analysis of two methods of determination of the maturity of cotton fibre is reported. One consisted in comparing fibres with reference drawings and the other in using the polarizing microscope. The relationship between the degree of development of the secondary wall determined by these methods and the strength of cotton as one of its most important physical properties was also taken into consideration.

The degree of correlation between the methods discussed and between the results obtained with them and the breaking load was found.

It was also ascertained that the degree of maturity was not the same throughout the length of the fibre. It increased from the base to the tip of the fibre.     

10—THE USE OF FLUORESCENT STAINS FOR THE STUDY OF THE STRUCTURE OF ANIMAL FIBRES

An account is given of the use of fluorescence microscopy for the study of the structure of various animal fibres. Sections of wool, mohair, llama, cow-tail, and horse-tail fibres, which were either untreated or had had some chemical treatment, were stained with fluorescent stains; much more detail was shown by this technique than by other staining methods. Basic dyes (acridine orange, rhodamine B, rhodamine 3GO, and thioflavine T) stained the orthocortex and acid dyes (uranin and geranine G) the paracortex.     

39—THE DETERMINATION OF THE LATERAL-COMPRESSION MODULUS OF FIBRES

An account is given of the measurement of the transverse deformation of fibres under various loads acting normal to the fibre longitudinal axis by a technique in which fibres are interleaved between glass plates in a vertical stack. Graphs of transverse load against compression are plotted for nylon, acrylic, and viscose rayon fibres under both air-dry and wet conditions.

An expression for the transverse deformation in terms of the applied load is proposed and used to calculate the lateral-compression moduli of the various fibres. The results show that, laterally, nylon fibres in both wet and dry states have the highest modulus and that acrylic fibres appear to be least affected by immersion in water. Viscose rayon fibres are most affected by water and experience a reduction in modulus by a factor of about 20.     

29—THE MEASUREMENT OF THE LENGTH-TO-DIAMETER RATIO OF SHORT SNIPPETS OF WOOL

An expression relating the length-to-diameter ratio of circular cylinders to the over-all volume that a random assembly of a given quantity of cylinders takes up is derived for variable length and variable diameter of a snippet. The results of experimental determinations are shown to correlate well with these theoretical considerations. The formula was checked for wool fibres with diameters in the range 20–30 μm and for snippet lengths from 0.2 to 2 mm.     

16—QUANTITATIVE ANALYSES OF WEFT-KNITTED STRUCTURES PART III: FORMALIZATION OF THE CONCEPT OF A COMPONENT UNIT OF A WEFT-KNITTED STRUCTURE

The fundamental obstacle that has delayed the quantification of jacquard weft-knitted structures is now known to have been basically the lack of a proper formalization of the concept of a component unit of a weft-knitted structure. The formalization of such a concept that is given here clarifies some ambiguous conceptions that existed in the literature. The geometrical properties of jacquard weft-knitted fabrics can now be fully quantified in a similar way to those of the simpler non-jacquard structures.     

41—FOAM-BACKED TEXTILES: A NEW LAMINATING MACHINE AND THE PROPERTIES OF A RANGE OF LAMINATES

An account is given of a simple laboratory-type mangle, developed for laminating textile fabrics with foam material. It is shown that it is possible to obtain with this equipment laminates with negligible loss of thickness in the lamination process and with a bond of satisfactory strength. It is also shown that, when a few of the laminates were given a waterproof finish with polyurethane resin on the same equipment, a satisfactory degree of waterproofness was imparted to them with the simultaneous retention of some of their inherent water-vapour-transmitting capacity. The resistance of foam, fabrics, and laminates to the transmission of water vapour is evaluated in terms of the equivalent thickness of still air for purposes of comparison, and the measurement of the thermal-insulation values of the foam, fabrics, and laminates with a simplified hot-plate apparatus is described.     

17—THE PREDICTION OF THE COMMERCIAL CARBONIZING YIELD OF WOOL

An investigation is reported in which the core-test yield was compared with the achieved mill yield for 90 commercial batches of Australian wool. Eight Australian mills participated in the trial. It was found that the wool base of the greasy wool (B _g%) was directly proportional to the achieved mill yield. The carbonizing loss, which was on the average 3.05% (on an oven-dry basis), was negatively correlated with the vegetable-matter base of the greasy wool (VMB _g%. The most precise prediction of the achieved mill yield was given by the equation:

ECCY% = 1.1972 B _g% + 0.1616 VMB _g% ? 5.12,

where ECCY% is the estimated commercial carbonizing yield. For the 90 batches in the trial, the standard error of the prediction was 1.95%.     

28—THE SPECIFIC HEAT OF WOOL CONTAINING AN ADDITIVE AND THE HEAT OF FUSION OF THE ABSORBED WATER

Specific-heat values are presented, in the temperature range from ?70 to 100°C, for a modified wool at various water contents. The modification was analogous to a dyeing process and involved the uptake of 14% of an additive by the wool. As for untreated wool, an endothermic peak resulting from the fusion of absorbed water was found in the range from ?30 to 0°C. The absorbed water exhibits a sub-division into freezable and non-freezable fractions. Heats of fusion of freezable absorbed water are given and compared with corresponding results for untreated wool. The integral heat of fusion at saturation water content is much less for treated than for untreated wool, as is the amount of freezable water. It appears that the treatment causes the exclusion of a considerable quantity of loosely held water. This is in accord with the concept, derived from Flory–Huggins solution theory, that one effect of the additive is to swell the wool fibres and thereby cause a greater resistance to further swelling at a given water content.     

49—THE EFFECT OF THE RELATIVE BEHAVIOUR OF BLEND COMPONENTS IN DETERMINING THE STRUCTURE OF WOOL CARPET YARNS

An account is given of the use of a tracer-fibre technique to investigate the configuration, the mean radial position, and the contribution to hairiness of various typical blend components in purewool carpet yarns produced on three different spinning systems. Tracer fibres selected to represent the components of an ‘unimproved’ fleece were found to behave differently during spinning, both from each other, and from tracer fibres selected from ‘improved’ fleeces. The choice of spinning method (woollen, open-end, or semi-worsted) was found to have most effect on the arrangement of fibres near the surface of the yarns.