Wicking and drying properties of conventional ring- and vortex-spun cotton yarns and fabrics

This study investigated the vertical wicking, water absorption and drying properties of vortex- and ring-spun combed cotton yarns and knitted fabrics comparatively. The yarns were produced in three different counts as 30 Ne, 40 Ne and 50 Ne. The experimental results revealed that vortex-spun yarns had lower yarn and fabric wicking and water absorption values than ring-spun yarns. In addition, it was observed that yarn type did not have a significant impact on the drying time of the fabrics.     

喷气涡流纺成纱工艺对色纺竹浆纤维针织物性能的影响

为研究喷气涡流色纺成纱工艺参数对色纺竹浆纤维针织物性能的影响,基于Box-Behnken设计方法,借助Minitab16软件,分析探讨了喷气涡流纺成纱工艺（喷嘴气压、纱线线密度、纺纱速度）对色纺竹浆纤维针织物断裂强力、透气性、悬垂性及耐磨性的影响。结果表明：纱线线密度减小,织物断裂强力下降,透气性和悬垂性先显著增加,而后略有下降;纺纱速度提高,织物断裂强力缓慢减小,透气性降低,悬垂性增加;喷嘴气压对针织物断裂强力、透气性、耐磨性均无显著影响,但当喷嘴气压增加时,织物悬垂性能先增加后降低;织物耐磨性主要受纺纱速度和纱线线密度的影响,且影响较为复杂。     

Investigation of the thermal comfort properties of knitted fabric produced from Estabragh (Milkweed)/cotton-blended yarns

In this research, the thermal comfort properties of a newly known fiber called Estabragh (Milkweed) have been investigated. Estabragh is a natural hollow fiber which is expected to provide excellent insulation properties due to their individual characteristics. Thermal comfort is one of the important fabric properties especially in the area of sport application which is considered in this research. For investigating this, 50–50% Estabragh/cotton-blended spun yarns was produced using short-staple spinning system. Two different sets of interlock-knitted samples using 100% cotton and Estabragh/cotton-blended yarns were produced individually on a flat knitting machine. Heat transfer rate, water vapor transmission, air permeability, and capillary absorption of produced fabrics were measured and compared. The results revealed that the vapor transmission rate through the knitted samples produced from Estabragh/cotton-blended yarns was 66.4% which is higher than that of the 100% cotton samples as 60.22%. It was also found that 100% cotton samples exhibited less moisture transfer rate than cotton/Estabragh samples. As far as heat transfer is concerned, it was concluded that the heat transfer ability of 100% cotton samples is higher than that of the Estabragh/cotton samples by about 47%. It was also shown that the capillary absorption of samples produced from Estabragh/cotton-blended yarns was higher than that of the 100% cotton samples. Compared to the 100% cotton samples, air permeability of Estabragh/cotton-knitted structures was found to be relatively low. The results totally proved that Estabragh fibers have a lot of advantages in order to be used in different fields of applications especially in sport areas.     

仿棉聚酯纤维保暖针织产品开发

介绍了仿棉聚酯纤维与棉的混纺纱的性能,选用4种仿棉聚酯纤维/棉混纺纱、氨纶丝、低弹涤纶丝交织,开发了平针添纱织物、平针衬垫拉绒织物、绗缝织物3种保暖针织物,测试分析其性能。结果表明：仿棉聚酯纤维/棉混纺纱针织物具有良好的保暖性、抗起毛起球性及服用舒适性,是开发保暖服装的理想原料。     

导电纱针织物拉伸松弛性能研究

含有不锈铜纤维纱的针织物可作为张力或压力传感器使用，因此该种织物在拉伸时产生的性能变化非常重要。对针织物受恒定张力拉伸时所产生的随时间变化的阻抗进行研究，采用使织物自身发生力学变化的方法，通过不同的预处理，系统分析了不同织物的阻抗变化。     

三维导湿结构环保针织面料开发与吸湿速干性能评价

为开发环保吸湿速干面料,设计新型三维导湿结构织造变化纬编间隔双面针织物,并结合单面和双面组织,采用天丝和再生涤纶制备9种针织面料。在变化纬编间隔组织下,将天丝/再生涤纶织物同天丝/中空涤纶织物和天丝/杜邦^TMSorona®织物进行对比。通过动态水分传递法与单项组合试验法对各织物进行测试分析,采用模糊综合评价法对各织物吸湿速干性能进行对比。结果表明:通过2种测试方法得到的面料吸湿速干性能优劣排序存在差异;综合分析发现采用18 tex天丝/33.3 tex(96 f)再生涤纶长丝织造的三维导湿结构变化纬编间隔双面织物吸湿速干性能最好;单层织物中,采用纬平针组织织造的天丝/再生涤纶长丝混合针织物吸湿速干性能较好,有潜力应用于绿色环保型运动服装领域。     

Assessing colour differences of viscose fabrics knitted from vortex-, ring- and open-end rotor-spun yarns after abrasion

The colour values of fabric samples that are knitted from vortex-spun (VS), open-end rotor-spun and ring-spun yarns were evaluated after abrasion. We measured the changes of colour properties of each sample, considering spinning system, dyeing concentration and abrasion cycle, which have effects on colour values. The colour values of dyed fabrics knitted from ring spun yarns showed less change after abrasion than that of dyed fabrics knitted from open-end rotor-spun and VS yarns, when the spinning systems were compared. The colour values of dyed fabrics knitted from VS yarns showed more changes after abrasion because of the smooth surface of VS yarns.     

The effect of core-sheath proportion on the characteristics of fabrics produced with hollow yarns: part II comfort and mechanical properties

The study aims to investigate the effect of hollow yarn structure and the sheath-core proportion of hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the knitted fabrics. In order to accomplish this, core yarns in the yarn count of 59 tex were produced by using cotton, viscose, wool, and polyester fibers in the sheath and different ratios of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) in the core. After completion of yarn production on ring spinning frame, the yarns in the form of packages were used to produce plain knitted fabrics. Fabrics were then divided into two groups, one of which was washed during a time period in order to remove PVA from the core to obtain hollow yarn structure. Air and water permeability, and wicking properties of the knitted fabrics were measured before and after washing processes. Mechanical properties such as pilling and bursting strength of the fabrics were also examined. The results show that washing process and PVA proportion used to produce core spun yarns have a significant effect on the permeability and mechanical properties of the fabrics.     

Physical properties of ring,compact, and air vortex yarns made of PTT/wool/modal and wearing comfort of their knitted fabrics for high emotional garments

This study examined the physical properties of PTT/wool/modal yarns according to the yarn structure and the wearing comfort of their knitted fabrics for high emotional garments. For this purpose, the air-vortex, compact, and ring yarns and their knitted fabrics were prepared to analyze the wear comfort according to the yarn structure and the possibility of applications of the PTT/wool/modal blend fibers to air-vortex yarn. The wicking and drying rates of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabrics were superior to those of the ring and compact yarns fabrics, and the heat-keeping capability of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabric was higher than those of the ring and compact yarns fabrics due to the low thermal conductivity and maximum heat flow rate. In addition, the pilling of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabric was less than those of the ring and compact ones due to the air-vortex yarn structure with parallel fibers in the core part and the periodical and fasciated twists on the sheath part of the yarns. The tactile hand of the air-vortex yarn knitted fabric was harsher than those of the ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics because of the low extensibility and compressibility, and the high bending and shear rigidities.     

仪纶~(TM)纬平针织物的抗起毛起球性能

本文分别选用环锭纺、赛络纺、赛络紧密纺纺纱工艺,制备了同等纱支的仪纶~(TM)纯纺、仪纶~(TM)/棉(65/35)混纺针织纱线及其纬平针织物,对比测试了纱线性能及其织物抗起毛起球性能。实验结果显示:不同纺纱工艺的仪纶~(TM)针织纱线总体性能相似,赛络紧密纺纱线纱体结构更均匀;赛络纺织物的抗起毛起球性较环锭纺织物高0.5级,赛络紧密纺织物的抗起毛起球性明显好于环锭纺织物;混纺织物的抗起毛起球等级和起球粒数均有所改善。     

Thermo-physiological comfort properties of double-face knitted fabrics made from different types of polyester yarns and cotton yarn

Double-face knitted fabrics with hydrophobic inner and hydrophilic outer layers are characterised by their advantageous thermo-physiological comfort property that facilitates the transport of sweat from skin to outer fabric layer where it can be evaporated easily. In this study, for the production of double-face knitted fabrics, cotton yarn as hydrophilic yarn type and five different polyester filament yarns consisting of standard polyester, hollow polyester, micro polyester, textured polyester and textured micro polyester as hydrophobic yarn type were used. In order to determine the thermo-physiological comfort properties of the fabrics, air permeability, water vapour permeability, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capacity were measured. The results were comparatively analysed using statistical methods. The experimental results demonstrated that the polyester-type yarns and the combinations of them with the cotton yarn in fabric layers affected the thermo-physiological comfort properties significantly. The fabrics with polyester-type inner face and cotton outer face showed the best moisture transmission properties.     

环锭纺纱和紧密纺纱罗纹针织物性能及其他物理性能

所有数据显示紧密纺纱织物的性能及其他物理参数优于精梳纱织物。相对于传统的环锭纺,紧密纺纱的毛羽指数低、强度高、条干均匀。紧密纺和环锭纺纱线结构上的差异明显地影响其织物性能、因此,尽管所有其他织物参数都相同,紧密纺纱生产的针织物相对于环锭纺纱针织物还是有着较短的线圈长度、较高的面密度、断裂强度、断裂伸长、顸破强力,以及更少的起毛起球。紧密纺纱线生产的针织物仅耐磨性稍差于环锭纺纱针织物．     

Comparison of fabric properties knitted by pin spacer compact and conventional compact yarns

This study examined the influence of pin spacer apparatus attachment on compact yarn quality parameters and physical properties of knitted fabrics manufactured using those 100% cotton compact yarns. Two groups of compact yarns were spun on regular compact yarn spinning frame with and without addition of pin spacer apparatus which is placed at the end of the drawing unit of regular compact yarn spinning frame. Totally eight yarns were spun at four different yarn number levels (Ne 24/1, Ne 30/1, Ne 36/1 and Ne 40/1) and two different spinning conditions (with and without pin spacer apparatus). Spun yarn types were then knitted on the industrial sized plain knitting machine. Knitted fabrics were used in the greige and dyed form to evaluate their bursting strength (kPa), dimensional change, abrasion related mass loss (%), pilling resistance, air permeability (mm/s) and colour difference. Test results were then statistically evaluated and influence of pin spacer attachment on yarn quality parameters and fabric properties was determined. In the frame of this experimental work, attachment of pin spacer apparatus improved compact yarn characteristics especially at yarn evenness, imperfection and hairiness values. In case of knitted fabric properties, it was found that pin spacer apparatus attached compact yarn utilization significantly improved air permeability properties of knitted fabrics.     

Effect of Pique and Honeycomb Structures on Moisture Management Properties of Eri Silk Knitted Fabrics

ABSTRACT

The present study aims to investigate the moisture management and wicking properties of eri knitted fabrics. In this study, two different knit structures, namely, single pique and honeycomb fabric, were developed with the combinations of two different tightness values of slack and tight by using 2/80s Nm and 2/140s Nm eri silk yarns. The developed fabrics were analyzed for vertical wicking, moisture management properties such as wetting time, spreading speed, absorption rate, maximum wetting radius, accumulative one-way transport index (AOTI), and overall moisture management capacity (OMMC). Variables such as yarn linear density, tightness, and knitting structure have a significant influence on the wicking and moisture management properties. The overall OMMC indices of eri silk knitted fabric lie in the ‘very good’ to ‘excellent’ category, indicating the suitability of eri silk yarn for skin fit as well as active wear applications.     

针织西服面料设计及其性能

为改善机织西服缺乏弹性、穿着舒适度不理想的问题,提升西服面料的服用性能,更好地将针织西服面料应用于市场,根据西服面料的应用,对针织西服面料进行设计开发并测试研究其相关性能。结果表明:针织西服面料中棉纤维含量较多时,透气率可提高70 ~210 mm/ s;棉型西服面料透湿量比毛型西服高300 ~400 g/ (m2·d),折皱回复角度高5°左右,回弹性能较为优异;根据不同原料的西服面料的优势特点,结合其服用性能,可广泛将面料运用至季节性商务服饰的开发;研究开发的针织西服面料具有良好的服用性能和优势。     

Permeability properties of single jersey fabrics made of hollow yarns

In this work effect of using hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the single jersey knitted fabrics were studied. Firstly yarns were produced by ring spinning machine using cotton, viscose and acrylic fibres in the mantle and water soluble polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibre in the core. Single jersey fabrics were knitted and PVA core was removed subsequently by washing process to create hollow yarn. Weight, air permeability and water transmission rate properties of fabrics were measured before and after washing and compared with reference fabrics. Due to the removal of PVA fibres from the yarn core after washing treatment, air permeability and water vapour transmission rate of the all kind of single jersey fabrics which were produced with hollow yarns increased as well as weight of the fabrics decreased which will cause more comfort during any exercise. It was also found that mantle fibre type and PVA ratio have significant effect on the fabric properties.     

多重集聚纺纱结构成形机制及其针织物性能

为解决多毛羽传统环锭纱针织困难,而光洁的常规集聚纺纱线织物手感硬的技术难题,建立串联半开放式多重集聚纺纱方法,分析多重集聚纺纱机制和结构成形特征。理论分析结果表明,多重集聚纺纱线具有外紧而内柔的结构特征。基于理论解析,在相同工艺条件下,分别采用传统环锭、常规集聚和多重集聚纱线制成针织面料,对比分析了各针织物压缩回弹、透气、抗起毛起球、耐磨、染色等性能。测试结果表明：与传统环锭纱相比,多重集聚纱线针织物耐磨、透气性、抗起毛起球性改善;与常规集聚纱线相比,多重集聚纱线针织物悬垂性、压缩回弹性和染色性能明显提高。     

无捻纱织物的性能分析

对无捻纱针织物的透气性、吸湿性、缩率等进行测试,并与有捻纱针织物的相应指标进行对比。无捻纱针织物的透气性几乎是传统棉针织物的2倍,说明无捻纱针织物有良好的透气性能。无捻纱针织物的干燥速度要比普通的棉针织物快,说明无捻纱针织物的水分散失能力比普通棉针织物好。同时对无捻纱机织物的透气和透湿性能、拉伸性能、顶破性能、悬垂性等进行测试,证明无捻纱织物具有良好的服用性能与开发前景。     

Effect of structural parameters of porous yarns and fabric on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics

In this study, effect of fabric structural parameters of double-face woven fabrics including kind of porous yarn namely micro-porous yarn and hollow yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, percentage of these yarns in double-face woven fabric structure, and finally weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics was evaluated. These yarns were produced by using water-soluble continuous polyvinyl alcohol filaments as core part for hollow yarns and as doubling yarn in micro-porous yarn. Results revealed the effect of kind of porous yarn, hole size of hollow yarn, and weft density on air permeability and moisture transfer of woven fabrics. The percentage of porous yarns as weft did not show obvious trend. Analysis of variance was used to study the effect of these variables on air permeability and moisture transfer of double-face woven fabrics statistically.     

不同混纺比犜犲狀犮犲犾/苎麻混纺针织物服用性能的测试与分析

测试6种不同混纺比针织物的主要服用性能指标,包括织物的悬垂性、起毛起球性、折皱回复性、刚柔性和吸湿性等,对测试的数据运用最小二乘法进行曲线拟合,得出不同混纺比对其针织物服用性能影响的函数关系式,并取得函数的极值点,为开发不同性能的Tencel/苎麻混纺针织物提供理论依据。