化妆品保湿功效评价

考察了保湿评价前用湿巾清洁与香皂清洁的皮肤预处理方法,以及清洁后对皮肤水分的影响。比较了3种保湿水在使用后不同时问,皮肤水合度和透皮失水的变化,并且对比了不同皮肤类型使用同种保湿水后水合度、透皮失水的变化。得出,保湿水3号短期保湿效果最佳,使用后8h,皮肤水合度由初始的33．2提高到60．7,提高了82．8％,并且对于干燥皮肤保湿效果更好。3种保湿水均能够降低透皮失水值,改善及修复皮肤的屏障功能,且保湿水3号对不同皮肤类型的最终皮肤屏障改善程度一致。     

The effect of a synthetic ceramide-2 on transepidermal water loss after stripping or sodium lauryl sulfate treatment: an in vivo study

The integrity of the chemical and physical structure of the horny layer is essential for maintaining the skin in good health. Any disturbance of this integrity may lead to cutaneous reactions of varying degree: dryness, redness, inflammation. The measurement of Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) allows one to record this kind of disturbance and to follow the slow return to normal. In this in vivo study two techniques of insulting the epidermis were used: stripping and washing with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). A significant increase of TEWL values resulted in both cases. The application of emulsions containing 0.5% and 1% of a synthetic ceramide type-2 (N-stearoyl-DL-erythro-sphinganine) decreased the disturbance measured by TEWL, in a significant fashion in both trials. The placebo emulsions showed no significant effect. The ceramide thus seemed to participate in the restructuring of the horny layer.     

Material design using genetic algorithms and preparation of innovative UV-reflecting composite

The neck is a sun-exposed area. It seems to show the symptoms of photo-ageing as well as facial skin in the elderly. However, the physiological study of neck skin has hardly been reported. We examined the change of skin physiological properties at a neck site with ageing for 61 women (18—69 years old) compared with a cheek site. Water content in stratum corneum (SC) was higher, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was lower and the turnover rate of SC judged from corneocyte area was slower at the neck site compared with the cheek site. Skin thickness was thinner, skin extensibility and elasticity were higher, skin grooves were deeper, and anisotropy of skin furrows was lower at the neck site than those at the cheek site. It was shown that the neck was also affected by sunlight but not so much as the cheek from the result of gelatinase activity detected in the tape stripped SC. Skin elasticity decreased with ageing at the neck site as well as the cheek site. Fine wrinkles were remarkably increased in the direction of Langer's line with ageing at the neck. Most skin physiological parameters at the neck showed the value between the cheek (heavily sun-exposed area) and back (not sun-exposed area). From these results, it was considered that not only intrinsic ageing but also photo-ageing affected the neck skin. We developed the prototype of cosmetics corresponding to neck skin physiology based on these results, and evaluated the effectiveness of the prototype product by a consumer test including skin measurement for 4 weeks. After treatment, water content increased, and it gave satisfaction in the skin colour brightness, skin elasticity and skin texture improvements for almost all volunteers. It was concluded that the prototype product was useful in neck skin treatment.     

聚甘油脂肪酸酯类乳化剂制备乳液功效性研究

测定了聚甘油-6 二硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-10 硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-10二棕榈酸酯制备的乳液的粒径、皮肤水分含量、经皮水分流失TEWL。结果表明,聚甘油-6 二硬脂酸酯制备的乳液分散性较好,乳液粒径分布较小;聚甘油-10二棕榈酸酯制备的乳液在皮肤水分含量、经皮水分流失TEWL值上优于其他2组。     

Closed-chamber transepidermal water loss measurement: microclimate, calibration and performance

The importance of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as a measure of the skin barrier is well recognized. Currently, the open-chamber method is dominant, but it is increasingly challenged by newer closed-chamber technologies. Whilst there is familiarity with open-chamber characteristics, there is uncertainty about the capabilities of the challengers. The main issues are related to how microclimate affects TEWL measurements.
The aim of this paper is to provide a framework for understanding the effects of microclimate on TEWL measurement. Part of the problem is that TEWL measurement is indirect. TEWL is the diffusion of condensed water through the stratum corneum (SC), whereas TEWL methods measure water vapour flux in the air above the SC. This vapour flux depends on (i) the rate of supply of water to the skin surface and (ii) the rate of evaporation of water from the skin surface. Rate (i) is a skin property (TEWL), rate (ii) is a microclimate property. The controlling rate for the combined process is the lower of the above two rates. Therefore, TEWL instruments measure TEWL only when TEWL is the rate-limiting process.
Another problem is that SC barrier property and SC hydration are affected by the microclimate adjacent to the skin surface. This is discussed insofar as it affects the measurement of TEWL. The conclusion is that such changes occur on a timescale that is long compared with TEWL measurement times.
An important aspect of TEWL measurement is calibration. We present an analysis of the traditional wet-cup method and a new droplet method that is traceable and has been independently verified by a standards laboratory.
Finally, we review performance indicators of commercial closed-chamber instruments with reference to open-chamber instruments. The main findings are that TEWL readings correlate well, but there are significant differences in the other aspects of performance.     

What are meters measuring?

There is increasing pressure on manufacturers of cosmetic products to provide data to support claims. Data are available from many sources including historical (published literature), laboratory data, cell culture experiments and human studies. Undoubtedly, human studies are the most reliable, and there are a wide range of tests available. Many meters have been developed for measuring different aspects of skin physiology but an understanding of these devices is essential, otherwise the data generated is of little value. There is some confusion as to what exactly some meters measure, an example of which is transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and water content (hydration) of the stratum corneum. Measurement of TEWL is used mainly to support claims that a product may, in the short or long term, improve or repair the barrier function of skin. It is not an indicator of hydration of the stratum corneum. One way to measure hydration is to look for the changes in electrical properties of the stratum corneum that the increased water content produces, i.e. measure capacitance or conductance. It is important that we do not loose sight of the fact that meters may measure something that is imperceptible to the consumer or has no meaning to them. Reliance only on devices that give numbers may lead to problems. An example of a study where three facial cosmetic products were subjected to perceptual tests and to a standard volunteer test for moisturization will be discussed. The relationship between any measured parameter, and what it means to the consumer, needs to be understood. A moisturization claim may be technically supported by a study using a device such as the Corneometer. However, a 20% increase in water content almost certainly does not represent a 20% better moisturization as far as the consumer is concerned. The way forward is to relate the two approaches to product testing during product development. Hopefully, this will allow the product development process to be more systematic.     

The use of transepidermal water loss to measure and predict the irritation response to surfactants

The ability of baseline transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements to predict the response of healthy subjects to a standard soap chamber irritation insult was evaluated. Chambers containing surfactant solutions were applied to the forearms of normal volunteers for five consecutive days. TEWL was measured using a Servo Med Evaporimeter. TEWL measurements were made prior to the first application of the chambers and following the removal of the second set of chambers (the afternoon of Day 1). The correlation between the TEWL values obtained on Day 1 and the subjective evaluation of irritation resulting from the application of two different toilet soaps was statistically significant. This result indicates that damage to the skin is reflected by an increase in TEWL. Interestingly, there was also a statistically significant correlation between TEWL values obtained on the untreated skin at Time 0 and the five-day average irritation score for these two cleansing products. The results of this study indicate that a high baseline TEWL value may be predictive of a high susceptibility to soap irritation as measured by the chamber test.
Le role des pertes en eau transepidermique pour mesurer et prevoir l'irritation due aux tensio-actifs     

A clinical, biometrological and ultrastructural study of xerotic skin

The purpose of this in vivo study was to investigate, non-invasively on human subjects, xerotic skin and its physiological evolution over time, compared to normal skin. Two groups of 17 female subjects were studied during the winter season, one made up of subjects with normal skin and the other subjects with xerotic skin. A clinical assessment and biometrological measurements of hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were performed on the same area of the external antero-lateral surface of the leg at the start of the study then after three weeks. At the end of the study, the ultrastructure of stratum corneum samples taken from the same area was examined by transmission electron microscopy. Subjects with xerotic skin were selected according to their impaired cutaneous barrier function, reflected in a TEWL higher than 12 g/m ; 2/h. Compared to normal subjects, they presented a hydration level more than 25% lower. After an interval of 21 days, no significant change in the hydration level or clinical appearance of the xerotic skin was observed. In contrast, the TEWL had decreased significantly (D _ 21- D _ 0=-3.6 g/m ; 2/h; p < 0.001) but still stayed higher than normal values. Changes in the ultrastructure of the stratum corneum were also observed in the subjects with xerotic skin. Unlike normal skin, corneosomes could be detected right up to the surface layers, accompanied by intercellular lipids in an amorphous form. These observations confirm the important roles played by both corneosomes and lipid organization in the cohesion/desquamation processes. In the subjects with normal skin, the hydration level and barrier function remained unchanged during the three week study but an onset of skin dryness was observed, the mean clinical score increasing by +1.3 (p = 0.01). These results confirm that there is no direct relationship between TEWL and the severity of skin dryness. It appears that a clinical evaluation is more sensitive than biometrological measurement for describing early state of cutaneous dryness. This study highlights the importance of a regular cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical treatment during the winter to prevent xerosis apparition on legs.     

Perfluoropolyether phosphate: skin exfoliation after a topical pre-treatment, TEWL and skin elasticity, by in-vivo non-invasive methods

Glycolic acid (GA) and other alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs) are common ingredients of products designed to accelerate exfoliation of the skin. It is known that acidic pHs are essential in order to increase the efficacy of AHA-based products. The formulator is, therefore, obliged to achieve a difficult balance between performance (skin exfoliation) and risks (skin irritation). In order to overcome this problem, many common organic acids, and combinations of them, have been proposed, with marginal improvements. The need for a new chemistry, in order to achieve better results, was evident, particularly from the point of view of safety. We decided, therefore, to investigate the efficacy of perfluoropolyether (PFPE) phosphate, a new acidic material, already proposed for lowering the pH without increasing skin irritation. Two gels containing PFPE phosphate at different pH values (3 and 7), an acidic gel containing GA at pH 3, and a neutral gel, without an active compound, were applied on 20 healthy volunteers and evaluated with regard to effects on the skin: *Exfoliation after a topical pre-treatment with these gels *Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and elasticity The main conclusion of the investigation was that PFPE phosphate has effects, particularly skin exfoliation rate, quite independent of the pH, and comparable to the gel containing GA at pH 3, apparently without the typical drawbacks of AHAs.