常用高性能纱线弯曲刚度的测量和表征

由于轴向织物增强薄壳体复合材料越来越成为研究的热点课题。衬纱是轴向织物的重要组成部分,弯曲变形是织物变形的主要形式,因此,衬纱的弯曲刚度对织物的三维成型性能有着重要影响。本文借助KES织物风格仪,通过测量最大弯矩值M_max和拟合斜率值s,表征四种常用高性能纱线的弯曲刚度。实验结果表明：在相同线密度下,高性能纱线的弯曲刚度大于传统纱线的弯曲刚度,四种高性能纱线的弯曲刚度由大到小依次是碳纱线、玻璃纱线、高强聚乙烯纱线、芳纶纱线;高性能纱线的弯曲刚度受纱线中单丝的排列、聚集状态影响,并且随着进入角度的增加而减小。     

Quality evaluation of the appearance of virtual close-fitting woven garments

The goal of this research was to investigate the quality of the appearance of close-fitting virtual garment with respect to textile materials’ mechanical (tensile, bending, shear and surface) properties. During the research, the panel of experienced experts was rating visual quality of virtual dresses which were simulated with the help of Modaris 3D Fit (Lectra) software. The objects of the investigations were 100% cotton and cotton-blended woven fabrics. Mechanical properties were defined by Kawabata Measurement System, main part of which is based on uniaxial testing. Mannequin of standard size 164–92–96 was covered with close-fitting virtual dress. The fit evaluation of virtual garment was performed on the basis of local tensile strains at 11 points in warp, weft and bias directions. Simulation results of close-fitted garment showed that mechanical characteristics of selected materials effect strain distribution and the quality of garment appearance. It was defined that tensile properties (tensile strain and tensile energy) of textile materials in weft direction had the strongest effect.     

Determination of model parameters for predicting handle characteristics of wool-rich suiting woven fabrics based on the Wool HandleMeter and KES-F

The main aim of this paper is to investigate the feasibility of using the Wool HandleMeter as an economical and effective method to predict the handle characteristics of wool-rich woven fabrics suitable for winter suiting. The correlation analysis and step-wise regression method were used to determine applicable curve parameters extracted from the Wool HandleMeter in order to explain the handle characteristics of the woven fabrics by a series of multiple regression models. Moreover, an independent set of woven samples was selected to validate the regression models on the basis of the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics, subjective handle evaluation and the formability index F_FAST. The results showed that the Wool HandleMeter together with the developed regression models is an excellent starting point for the simple evaluation of handle characteristics of wool-rich woven fabrics and can be the basis for further development of the Wool HandleMeter for woven fabrics.     

KES-F织物风格评价系统的发展

KES-F(Kawabata Evaluation System-Fabric)织物风格评价系统经历了2次升级换代:KES-FB系统与新型全自动KES FB-AUTO-A系统.文中详细介绍了KES FB-AUTO-A系统与KES-FB系统相比,具有自动化程度高,测试指标更加完善,仪器误差小,评价更加便捷,用途更为广泛等特点.     

Kawabata evaluation of PLA-knitted fabric washed with various laundering formulations

PLA-knitted fabric was scoured in the presence of sodium carbonate and a non-ionic detergent through an exhaust technique. The scoured fabric was washed in the presence of three tailor-made formulations. Formulation I comprised of non-ionic detergent, formulation II comprised of detergent, sodium perborate and tetra-acetyl ethylene diamine (TAED) while formulation III consisted of detergent, sodium perborate, TAED and four enzymes in various proportions. The enzymes were amylases, proteases, lipases and cellulases. PLA fabric was laundered up to 50 cycles and then evaluated in terms of mechanical properties and surface morphology. The mechanical testing of fabric at low stresses was carried out on Kawabata evaluation system for Fabrics (KES-F) while the yarns were tested on an Instron testing machine. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was employed to investigate the surface morphology of PLA fibres.     

Virtual try-on technologies in the clothing industry. Part 1: investigation of distance ease between body and garment

The aim of the first part of the research was to investigate distance ease distribution between straight shape virtual dress and 3D body in respect to fabrics mechanical (tensile, bending, shear) properties using virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra). The second part would be intended for the basic construction adjustment according to the mechanical properties of textile materials. The objects of the investigations were 100% cotton and cotton-blended plain weave fabrics. Mechanical properties were defined by KES-F (Kawabata). Virtual mannequin was covered with straight virtual dress. Distance ease distribution as well as the values of simulated 3D garment at bust girth ES_{3D_bust} (cm) were investigated. It was defined that distance ease in 3D garment was lower than ease allowance used for 2D basic construction. The strongest effect upon the distance ease between body and garment had tensile strain of fabrics in weft direction.