Pattern design and optimization of yarn-dyed plaid fabric using isolation niche genetic algorithm and rough set theory

Under the circumstance of perceptual consumption, it is still challenging to grasp consumer's emotions and demands due to the large search space, diversified preferences, and easy fatigue of consumers. To reduce user fatigue and enlarge search space, a novel method was presented to design and optimize the pattern of yarn-dyed plaid fabric using the isolation niche genetic algorithm and rough set theory. Each pattern was encoded as a chromosome based on the real number code. The population was initialized and evolved using INGA to maintain the diversity. The rough set theory was adopted as the fitness function of isolation niche genetic algorithm to extract the consumer's demands. After multiple evolutions, a large set of practical patterns of the yarn-dyed plaid fabric are obtained. Experiments were carried out by 24 testers of different ages and genders. The results prove that the proposed method based on the isolation niche genetic algorithm and rough set theory is feasible and effective, supplying references to the designer.     

Establishment of a color tolerance for yarn-dyed fabrics from different color-depth yarns

Yarn-dyed fabric is often woven from warp and weft yarns in the same color depth to ensure a uniform color appearance. The difference in color depth between warp and weft tends to result in the uneven color of the yarn-dyed fabric. This article aims to establish a color tolerance for yarn-dyed fabric that can be woven with a qualified color appearance but from the warp and weft yarns in different color depths. A total of 27 yarn-dyed fabric samples in three color series (red, yellow, and blue) were evaluated by using the yarn-dyed fabric from warp and weft yarns in the same color depth of 2% (on weight of fabric, owf) as the standard. Visual assessment and instrumental measurement of color were carried out to establish the color tolerance ellipse that was defined as CMC (Color Measurement Committee) color differences (2:1) of no more than 1.00. It was found that the color strengths (K/S) and color differences (ΔE_CMC(2:1)) of these fabric samples for each color series had linear relationships with the color depths of warp and weft yarns. The color tolerance ellipses indicated that, even though the warp and weft yarns had an apparent color difference, they could be woven in fabrics with relatively uniform color appearance and meet the requirements for yarn-dyed fabric. This work provided valuable insight into the production of qualified yarn-dyed fabrics from unqualified dyed yarns.     

热定形对并列复合再生聚酯短纤维性能的影响

以再生聚酯瓶片料和泡料混合料为原料进行并列复合纺丝,并经后纺工艺处理得到并列复合再生聚酯短纤维。通过对纤维进行干热定形,研究热定形温度、时间对并列复合再生聚酯短纤的强伸性能、卷曲性能和热收缩性能的影响。结果表明:聚酯短纤维的断裂强度和断裂伸长率随着热定形温度升高而增大;断裂强度随热定形时间的延长逐渐下降,断裂伸长率先增大后减小,在20 min时达到最大值,为17.4%,声速取向因子则随着热定形时间的延长呈现下降趋势。纤维的卷曲性能随着热定形温度的升高而改善,较短的时间内,纤维的卷曲性能已经达到最佳;热定形温度的升高使纤维的热收缩率增大;并列复合再生聚酯短纤维的最佳热定形温度是140～160℃,最佳定形时间为10 min。     

RFRL30型剑杆织机用于丝织物织造的工艺调试探究

RFRL30型剑杆织机是一款高性能织造设备,已经广泛应用于各种复杂服装面料、装饰布、滤布、安全织物等领域。近年来,越来越多的客户也在使用RFRL30型剑杆织机织造丝织物,为了提高织机运转效率、提升面料质量,针对丝织物的纱线特点和面料要求,文章探究了RFRL30型剑杆织机生产丝织物过程中织机工艺参数的调节及注意事项;针对特殊品种的织造,通过反复试验织机的调试工艺参数,找到了最佳状态,满足了客户需求。     

棉织物的硅溶胶疏水整理

为实现超疏水织物的绿色加工,采用正硅酸乙酯(TEOS)为前驱体,乙醇和水为溶剂制备硅溶胶预缩体对棉织物进行疏水整理,研究各工艺因素对棉织物疏水性能的影响,重点分析预缩体的制备、硅烷偶联剂的添加、低温烘干工艺与提高整理织物疏水性的相关性。结果表明:棉织物表面的SiO₂纳米粒子形成的粗糙表面与织物表面结合的疏水脂肪烃链可赋予织物良好的疏水性;在TEOS量为0.1 mol,乙醇量为0.9 mol,水的量为0.8 mol,先二浸二轧硅溶胶,再浸轧十六烷基三甲氧基硅烷醇溶剂优化工艺条件下,整理棉织物的水接触角可达152.1°,棉织物的力学性能得到提高。     

氧化壳聚糖改性抗菌蚕丝织物的制备及其性能

为获得持久抗菌的功能丝绸材料,采用硝酸、磷酸、亚硝酸钠体系将原料壳聚糖的C6位伯羟基选择性氧化为羧基制得水溶性氧化壳聚糖(OCS),使OCS的羧基与脱胶蚕丝织物(SFF)的氨基反应,得到氧化壳聚糖改性蚕丝织物(OCSMSF)。借助核磁共振仪、扫描电子显微镜、红外光谱仪、X射线衍射仪等手段表征了OCS与OCSMSF的化学结构,测试了OCSMSF的力学、吸湿、抗菌等性能。结果表明:酰胺反应已将氧化壳聚糖分子化学键合在SFF中,OCS改性蚕丝纤维的结晶度降低;在优化反应参数条件下,OCS接枝蚕丝织物的质量增加率达到9.17%,OCSMSF的强力略有减小,而吸湿性提高42.92%,OCSMSF对测试细菌的抑菌率大于94%,且抗菌耐洗涤性好,同时OCSMSF对仙人掌黄酮提取物有良好的缓释效果。     

Experimental and macro finite element modeling studies on conformability behavior of woven nylon 66 composite reinforcement

Abstract

In this study, 3D hemispherical forming experiments are conducted to analyze the conformability behavior of nylon 66 plain woven reinforcements with different weft densities. To make insight into the forming process, a macro finite element model is also proposed for 3D forming of a specific woven reinforcement by using the defined ‘Fabric’ material. The results show that the proposed FEM modelling is highly correlated with experimental findings in terms of forming energy values with small and insignificant errors values, which confirm well model validity. It shows that the nylon 66 composite woven reinforcement with a lower weft density exhibits a lower forming energy (toughness) and hence a higher conformability over a hemispherical surface. On the other hand, modeling outputs clearly indicate that more wrinkling intensity appear for woven reinforcement with a higher weft density.     

阻燃织物老化对其拉伸强力影响的研究进展

针对阻燃织物老化造成的强力下降,致使消防服无法满足标准规定的力学性能要求等问题,基于老化条件下织物强力测试相关标准,从热老化、光老化、磨损3个方面探讨不同老化方式对阻燃织物拉伸强力的影响;归纳了阻燃织物老化后强力变化的直接和间接测评方法。研究发现:目前老化后阻燃织物的强力测试无法满足标准规定的样本尺寸、经纬向测试、重复实验次数等要求;现有老化条件下阻燃织物强力预测方法在研究多因素条件下织物强力变化时存在局限性。最后指出:未来可综合考虑多种老化因素的交互作用对阻燃织物力学性能的影响,探索更复杂的非线性模型或借鉴其他领域中的预测方法对阻燃织物老化后力学性能进行预测,以提高预测精度和适用范围。     

氟硅烷改性CuS/SiO2复合气凝胶的超双疏防紫外线纺织品

以甲基三甲氧基硅烷(MTMS)为前驱体,在溶胶-凝胶反应过程中,加入纳米CuS,并采用十七氟癸基三乙氧基硅烷(PFDTES)对其改性,成功制备了氟硅烷改性CuS/SiO2复合气凝胶(F-CuS/SiO2),并将其与聚二甲基硅氧烷(PDMS)混合应用到棉织物上,制备了超双疏防紫外多功能棉织物。探讨了F-CuS/SiO2质量分数、PDMS质量分数、焙烘温度、焙烘时间等主要因素对整理棉织物疏水性能的影响。结果表明:当F-CuS/SiO2气凝胶为2%,PDMS为1%,焙烘温度为160℃,焙烘时间为8 min时,整理棉织物的疏水性能最佳,水滴接触角可达159.4°,油滴接触角可达151.8°,紫外线防护系数(UPF)为237.43,整理棉织物具有良好的超双疏防紫外自清洁效果。     

结构参数对超高分子量聚乙烯织物导热性的影响

为了提高服装热量的传导,采用导热率较高的超高分子量聚乙烯(UHMWPE)纱线作为纬纱与涤纶进行交织制成织物,并以电热片作为热源,通过铂电阻测温仪测量距离热源边界0、2、4 cm处织物表面温度随时间的变化。采用变量分离法测试纤维种类、纱线线密度、织物密度以及织物组织结构等因素对超高分子量聚乙烯织物导热性的影响。结果表明:含UHMWPE纱线交织物的导热性明显好于涤纶/涤纶和涤纶/锦纶交织物,且纱线越粗、织物密度越大、组织单元内纱线交织次数越少,织物导热性越好。