羊绒机织产品三防整理技术

选择含氟类聚合物对羊绒机织物进行三防整理(防水、防油、防静电)，文章对三防整理工艺进行了分析，给出了工艺路线和工艺条件。经测试，各项物理指标全部达到要求，提高了羊绒产品的服用性能和附加值。     

Char production using waste fibers from dehairing processes

A pyrolysis process was used to prepare char from the coarse guard hair droppings from cashmere dehairing processes. Three preparation variables were examined in this study, namely the heating rate, holding temperature, and holding time. The morphological evolution from hair to char, char yield, and uptake of methylene blue by the resultant char were investigated. Different morphological structures were observed for the char, including lotus-type, honeycomb-like, solid, bamboo-like, gourd-shaped, hollow and fragment structures. Based on the Box–Benkhen Design, two quadratic models were developed to correlate the preparation variables on two responses of the yield and the uptake value of methylene blue for cashmere guard hair char. From the analysis of variance, the char yield from cashmere guard hair is significantly affected by holding temperature and time. The uptake value of methylene blue is significantly influenced by holding temperature, holding time, and quadratic terms of the heating rate and the holding temperature.     

Tencel／羊绒针织物内浴染色工艺

选用汽巴克隆LS活性染料和普拉染料同浴两步法对Tencel/羊绒混纺针织物染色，通过实验及生产应用，说明该工艺可行，其染色产品同色性好，色泽鲜艳，色牢度符合要求。     

超短羊绒转杯纺针织纱的研制

羊绒超短纤维长度短，强力低，纺纱难度大。将羊绒超短纤维与可溶性维纶以78／22的比例混纺，可改善纺纱性能，开发的转杯纺针织纱织成织物后，将维纶溶解，使成品达到高羊绒纯度且轻薄的要求，可以提高产品附加值。介绍了超短羊绒纤维的性能特点、纺纱工艺要点，分析了超短羊绒维纶转杯纱的结构特征，并介绍了产品的后整理工艺。     

山羊绒与大豆蛋白纤维色纺纱线的纺制

山羊绒和大豆蛋白纤维分别染色后,在棉纺设备上纺制的色纺混纺纱线风格独特,产品光泽好,手感柔软,保暖性好,性价比高。针对山羊绒纤维与大豆蛋白纤维的性能特点,以山羊绒大豆蛋白纤维50/5020.8 tex×2色纺针织纱线为例,介绍了山羊绒与大豆蛋白纤维色纺针织纱线的纺纱工艺流程和工艺技术措施。     

Development and research on digital inkjet printing of wool/cashmere fabric北大核心

In this study, the wool fabric suitable for digital inkjet printing was designed and development by optimizing spinning and weaving process parameters. The influences of yarn steaming process, single slurry and different proportions composite slurry on digital inkjet printing quality were discussed. The results showed that the low temperature and short time secondary steaming process was used in order to increase color absorption capacity of fiber. It should be a reasonable choice of spinning and weaving speed, and reduce the generation of defects for improving the quality of printing. The composite slurry printing quality was better than single slurry, and the printed fabric had a high color yield, pure color and a clear pattern with the ratio of DGT-7 to alginate 2: 2.     

山羊绒散纤维染色探讨

本文针对主要的山羊绒散纤维漂白、染色工艺,采用GB/T4711—1984规定的强力和伸长测定方法对纤维损伤情况进行了测定。笔者根据试验发现在散纤维染色过程中,漂白和染色所使用的试剂都会对羊绒造成损伤。在生产中,应该合理选用染料、漂白试剂和漂染工艺,以减少纤维损伤,同时满足产品色光和染色牢度的要求。     

山羊绒与细羊毛、牦牛绒、驼绒混纺产品中羊绒含量分析的探讨

山羊绒与细羊毛、牦牛绒、驼绒均为角朊蛋白细胞组成,结构特征相似,在测定其混纺产品中羊绒含量具有一定的难度,是检验部门面对的一大难题。本文介绍了动物纤维的结构特点,结合光学显微镜图片围绕着山羊绒与细羊毛、牦牛绒、驼绒的鳞片形态特征的差异,对这几种混纺产品中羊绒含量的定量方法做出探讨。     

丝光毛棉羊绒赛络花色纱的开发

探讨丝光毛棉羊绒赛络花色纱的纺纱工艺.分析了各组分纤维原料染色前后的性能特点,采用半精纺工艺使多组分纤维充分混和,合理配置前纺工艺改善半成品质量.通过将不同定量的本白与染色粗纱搭配组合进行赛络纺,成功纺制出3种风格独特的丝光毛/棉/羊绒70/20/10 30 tex赛络花色纱,并通过工艺试验优选出成纱强力较高的喂入喇叭口间距工艺配置方案.指出:丝光毛棉羊绒赛络花色纱的强力会随着本白纤维含量的增大而增大;适当增加本白纤维比例,保持较低的细纱总牵伸倍数.可获得强力较高、条千较好的成纱质量.     

Comparisons of the Fourier Transform Infrared Spectra of cashmere,guard hair,wool and other animal fibres

Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), identifies chemical bands related to chemical bonds including amino acid groups. The potential for FTIR to differentiate animal fibres from different origins was investigated using cashmere (Chinese, Australian, Iranian), wool (Chinese, Australian), bison wool, qiviut from Musk-ox, vicuña and guard hairs present in these raw fibre samples. Cashmere from a controlled nutrition experiment with known amino acid composition was included in the study. While the intensity of FTIR spectra were moderately correlated with the content of some of the amino acids in cashmere, this investigation did not detect any significant systematic effects of nutritional manipulation of cashmere goats on the FTIR spectra of their cashmere. Significant differences were detected in the intensity of FTIR spectra between cashmere and wool, cashmere from different origins, white and coloured cashmere, and between cashmere and hair. The FTIR spectra of cashmere and wool overlapped with those of bison, qiviut and vicuña. The intensity of FTIR spectra were not correlated with the mean fibre diameter of samples but the intensity of most spectra bands were positively correlated with the fibre curvature of the samples (r = 0.27–0.38). Based on these results it does not seem likely that FTIR spectra offer a reliable method to distinguish between pure cashmere and blends of cashmere with wool or other animal fibre for diagnostic tests to determine the fibre composition in finished textiles.