三层双色立体提花经编鞋材的开发

针对普通双针床贾卡经编机难以以一次成形方式生产带有间隔层的双色立体提花经编鞋材的问题,研究了普通双针床单贾卡经编机和双针床双贾卡经编机的梳栉配置,以及典型双色提花工艺中芝麻点效应和纯双色效应的提花原理,提出了新的梳栉配置方法、提花控制方案以及提花工艺,并根据新的梳栉配置方法对双针床无缝经编机加以改造,加装了间隔梳,利用新的提花控制方案控制前贾卡在前/后针床选择性成圈,再配合新的提花工艺来克服现有双色工艺因过密的“点”或“片”连接而难以衬入间隔丝的缺陷,最终在升级后的RDJ6/2经编机上成功试织出一款带有间隔层的双色立体提花鞋材产品。该实践结果表明,三层双色立体提花经编鞋材的成功研发,关键在于对编织机构、控制系统、提花工艺的针对性集成优化。

Development of warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper

Aiming to the difficult production of the warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper in one-time for the ordinary double-needle bed jacquard warp knitting machine, a comparative analysis was made on the weaving institutions of double needle bed one/double-jacquard warp knitting machine and two-color sesame point effect and the pure two-color jacquard effect, and a new comb configuration method and jacquard control system and new jacquard method were proposed. According to the new comb configuration method, the double needle bed seamless warp knitting machine was modified, and the interval comb was installed. The new jacquard control scheme was adopted to control the Pre-Jaka comb to weave in front needle bed selectively. In combination with a new color block jacquard process that overcomes the drawbacks of the existing two-color process due to excessive dots or slices connections hard to line the spacer filaments, a two-color stereo jacquard shoe with a spacer layer was successfully woven on the upgraded RDJ6/2 warp knitting machine finally. The results show that the key for development of warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper is the assembly optimization of knitting structure, control system and jacquard process.