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针刺复合羊毛面料的设计及其性能
引用本文:陈静静,王必其,王雪琴.针刺复合羊毛面料的设计及其性能[J].纺织学报,2019,40(3):49-53.
作者姓名:陈静静  王必其  王雪琴
作者单位:1.浙江理工大学 材料与纺织学院、 丝绸学院, 浙江 杭州 3100182.浙江理工大学 浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心, 浙江 杭州 310018
基金项目:国家社科基金艺术学项目(15BH15);浙江理工大学教改项目(YZKC1717)
摘    要:为开发新型复合针刺羊毛面料,选用涤纶基布和羊毛为原料,利用现代无纺针刺机针刺复合面料,探究羊毛与涤纶基布以不同排列方式针刺后的效果对比,制作不同主题风格的创新面料;设计制作了不同羊毛含量、羊毛与面料不同排列组合的试样;通过测试试样的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、顶破强力来分析针刺面料的性能,以及影响这些性能变化的原因,探究其应用价值。结果表明:经过针刺复合后面料的力学性能比涤纶基布降低,但随着羊毛含量的增加,其力学性能提高,伸长率降低;针刺复合后面料纵向力学性能优于横向;羊毛平铺在双层涤纶布上针刺后复合面料的力学性能优于夹在双层涤纶布中间,且其针刺后的手感、图案表现效果最佳。

关 键 词:针刺复合  羊毛  针刺复合羊毛面料  排列方式  力学性能  
收稿时间:2018-04-10

Innovation design and performance test of needle composite wool fabric
CHEN Jingjing,WANG Biqi,WANG Xueqin.Innovation design and performance test of needle composite wool fabric[J].Journal of Textile Research,2019,40(3):49-53.
Authors:CHEN Jingjing  WANG Biqi  WANG Xueqin
Affiliation:1. Silk Institute, College of Materials and Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China2. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
Abstract:In order to develop innovative needle composite wool fabrics, the polyester fabric and wool fibers were selected as raw materials. Modern non-woven needling machine was used for needling composite fabrics. The effects of wool fibers and polyester fabrics according to different arrangements was investigated and compared, and fabrics with different theme styles were designed. The samples with different quantities of wool fiber and fabric were arranged in different modes. The strength of tensile breaking,tearing and bursting of the specimen were tested, respectively to analyze the performance of the needled fabric. The reasons for these mechanical properties were analyzed. Application value were explored. The results show that the mechanical properties of composite needling are lower than their polyester base cloth. However, the mechanical properties of fiber increases with the increa of the fiber quantity, and the elongation decreases. Longitudinal mechanical properties are better than horizontal ones. The mechanical properties of wool sandwiched between two layers of polyester fabric are better than that on the two layers polyester fabric, and the needled hand touch and pattens are the best.
Keywords:needle composite  wool fiber  needle composite wool fabric  arrangement mode  mechanical performance  
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