Hatchery Flounder Going Wild: Authenticity,Aesthetics, and Fetishism of Fish in Japan

This article—based on ethnographic research on fish stocking and discourses surrounding authenticity, aesthetics, and taste of wild fish in Japan—examines the cultural production of the “wilderness.” While Japan's seafood culture has long historical roots, this fetishism of wild fish is a product of the recent advancement of fisheries technology, namely aquaculture and fish stocking. The expansion of aquaculture has shaped not only the notion of the “cultivated” but also that of the “wild.” Simultaneously, the development of fish stocking—the national project to enhance wild fish stocks by releasing hatchery-bred juveniles into the ocean—has also contributed to the reimagining of the authenticity of “wild” fish while complicating it. By looking at flounder, one of the most popular species for fish stocking, this article reveals that tasting “wilderness” is a multisensory experience that reflects not only gustatory but also visual dimensions.