纱线断裂功对经编织造性能的影响

为深入了解经编织造对纱线力学性能的要求，结合纱线张力及断裂功，提出用纱线断裂功来评价纱线经编织造性能的观点。选择集聚纺14. 58 tex 长绒棉棉纱、集聚赛络纺9. 72 tex 棉纱及8. 33 tex(72 f)涤纶丝为试样进行经编织造，测试其张力及纱线拉伸断裂性能。将3 种纱线张力测试数据进行角度域转化，计算单循环内纱线张力做功，再结合纱线断裂功进行分析。结果表明：棉纱和涤纶丝张力随主轴变化趋势相同且波动程度差别较小；棉纱张力做功接近纱线断裂功，而涤纶丝张力做功远小于其断裂功；纱线张力做功与纱线断裂功之间差值越大，纱线经编织造适应能力越强。

Influence of yarn rupture work on performance of warp knitting

In order to better understand the mechanical properties of yarn for warp knitting, yarn tensions during warp knitting and rupture work of yarn were studied. The idea of yarn rupture work to evaluate the warp knitting performance was suggested. The 14. 58 tex cotton yarn, 9. 72 tex compact siro-spun cotton yarn and 8. 33 tex (72 f) polyester filament were selected, and the yarn tension and mechanical performance were tested. Tensile properties of these yarns were transformed by angle domain, and tension work of each knitting cycle was calculated. Combining with the analysis of the yarn rupture work, it is found that the cotton yarn tension is close to the rupture work, while the polyester tension is far less than the rupture work. The greater the difference between yarn tension and yarn fracture work, the stronger the yarn warp knitting adaptability