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山普拉墓地出土绞编毛绦带编织技术考释
引用本文:葛梦嘉,蒋玉秋,刘大玮,肖爱民,饶蕾,方丹丹.山普拉墓地出土绞编毛绦带编织技术考释[J].丝绸,2020,57(8):83-87.
作者姓名:葛梦嘉  蒋玉秋  刘大玮  肖爱民  饶蕾  方丹丹
作者单位:新疆大学 纺织与服装学院,乌鲁木齐830046;北京服装学院 美术学院,北京100029;中国社会科学院考古研究所,北京100710
基金项目:国家社会科学基金;清华大学艺术与科学研究中心柒牌非物质文化遗产研究与保护基金;新疆维吾尔自治区项目
摘    要:山普拉墓地出土的7条绞编毛绦带组织结构复杂,织物密度极高,可作为研究古代手编绦带技艺的技术样本。文章采用类型学的研究方法,将样本与考古出土绞编纺织品实物进行比较。在织造工具方面,通过对新疆本地区民族学现存的综版织机类型分析比对,并采用实验考古学的研究方法,基于实地测量所得样本数据,利用四孔综版织机,从技术角度对毛绦带进行工艺复原实践。最终实现了编织方法、织物组织结构、经纬密度、图案外观等基础数据的一致。研究认为,汉晋时期的西域地区已出现二孔及四孔综版式织机,并广泛用于编织毛绦带。

关 键 词:综版编织  绞编  山普拉  毛绦带  复原

Analysis of knitting technology of twisted woolen belt in Shanpra tomb
GE Mengjia,JIANG Yuqiu,LIU Dawei,XIAO Aimin,RAO Lei,FANG Dandan.Analysis of knitting technology of twisted woolen belt in Shanpra tomb[J].Silk Monthly,2020,57(8):83-87.
Authors:GE Mengjia  JIANG Yuqiu  LIU Dawei  XIAO Aimin  RAO Lei  FANG Dandan
Affiliation:(School of Textiles and Clothing,Xinjiang University,Urumqi 830046,China;School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute ofFashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Institute of Archaeology,Chinese Academy of Social Sciences,Beijing 100710,China)
Abstract:The seven twisted woolen belts unearthed from the Shanpra tomb have a complicated structure and high fabric density,which can be used as technical samples for studying the ancient hand-knitted belt technology.A typological research method was used to compare the samples with the archeologically untangled textiles.In terms of weaving tools,the types of existing heald loom in Xinjiang were analyzed and compared.Experimental archaeological research methods and a four-hole heald loom were used to perform technical restoration of woolen belt according to the sample data obtained from field measurements.Finally,the consistency of basic data such as weaving method,fabric structure,warp and weft density,and pattern appearance was achieved.Studies suggest that two-hole and four-hole heald looms appeared in the Western Regions during the Han and Jin dynasties,and were widely used to weave woolen belts.
Keywords:card weaving  twist knitting  Shanpra  fur band  restoration
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