孔府旧藏明代赤罗朝服的“内缯耳”结构考释

对孔府旧藏明代赤罗朝服研究发现内缯耳结构,显示是对“尽复汉官之威仪”的具体表现,其特殊的结构,是明承元制过程中,在保留蒙俗官袍分裾骑射文化的基础上,恢复汉统礼制而创制的官袍规范,它区别于唐宋前深衣制的下裳封闭式结构,研究发现内缯耳结构,显示与当朝官员常服盘领袍(外)缯耳结构构成明官袍礼制独特的文化符号,影响深远成为民族融合的经典范式。然而文献典籍和学界对此少有探究。本文通过孔府旧藏传世衍圣公朝服的典型样本和相关标本结构的系统研究,结合文献考证,表明明代朝服内缯耳结构表象是“裁技”,事实上它是蒙俗汉制民族融合,且又渗透着明代品官儒士慎独修养的生动物证。

A Study on"Nei Zeng Er"Structure in the Red Gauze Court Clothes of the Ming Dynasty Collected in Kong Family Mansion

Based on the study of the red gauze court clothes of the Ming Dynasty in the old collection of Kong Family Mansion,it is found that the structure of Nei Zeng Er(internal garment side inserts)is a concrete manifestation of“fully restoring Han officials’authority and dignity”.The special structure of Nei Zeng Er is also a proof of continuing Yuan Dynasty’s ritual system in Ming Dynasty.This structure,different from the closed structure of the lower hem of Shenyi clothes before the Tang and Song dynasties,is a standard of the official clothes created on the basis of preserving the Mongolian culture of separating the full front from the full back of the official clothes for the convenience of riding and shooting.We also find that Nei Zeng Er structure,together with the(outer)Zeng Er structure of the official plate-collar robes,constituted a unique cultural symbol of the official dress ritual system in Ming Dynasty,became a classic paradigm of ethnic integration,and had a far-reaching influence.However,few literature,classics and academic circles have researched this subject.Based on systematic study of the typical samples and the related sample structure of Duke Yansheng’s court dress in the old collection of Kong Family Mansion,combined with literature research,this paper suggests that Nei Zeng Er structure of the court clothes in Ming Dynasty is not as simple as“a cutting technique”.In fact,it is a symbol of the Han ritual system with Mongolian characteristics and the ethnic fusion permeated with the Confucian officials’self-cultivation spirit in the Ming Dynasty as well as a vivid material evidence of the restoration of Chinese system and the respect for Confucius and Confucianism in Ming Dynasty.