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活性脆损:活性染料对染色织物的损伤
引用本文:王碧佳,陈建刚,杨一奇. 活性脆损:活性染料对染色织物的损伤[J]. 印染, 2013, 39(17)
作者姓名:王碧佳  陈建刚  杨一奇
作者单位:1. 东华大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室东华大学化学化工与生物工程学院,上海,201620
2. 东华大学生态纺织教育部重点实验室东华大学化学化工与生物工程学院,上海201620;美国内布拉斯加大学农业和自然资源研究院
基金项目:东华大学中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金12D10528
摘    要:
活性染料染色的棉织物经多次洗衣店洗涤后往往出现强力下降,该现象据推断是由于活性染料染色后的纤维素纤维容易发生酸性水解导致的,被称为“活性脆损”.其另一表现为活性浓深色染色织物会出现机械性能和湿摩擦牢度的明显下降.文中综述了“活性脆损现象”的相关机理研究,探讨了活性染料结构对促进纤维水解作用的影响,并提出染料吸电子效应可能是影响活性脆损的主要因素;利用分子动力学模拟分析了不同结构的取代分子对纤维素苷键断裂焓变的影响,发现取代基的空间位阻效应对苷键水解的影响更为显著.为了彻底解决活性脆损问题,提高活性染料染棉尤其是染浓深色的湿摩擦牢度,必须进行更深层次的理论研究,以明确该现象背后的物化机理.

关 键 词:活性染料  染色  活性脆损  棉织物  酸性水解  分子模拟

Reactive tendering: loss of strength in cellulosic textiles due to reactive dyeing
WANG Bi-jia , CHEN Jian-gang , YANG Yi-qi. Reactive tendering: loss of strength in cellulosic textiles due to reactive dyeing[J]. Dyeing and Finishing, 2013, 39(17)
Authors:WANG Bi-jia    CHEN Jian-gang    YANG Yi-qi
Abstract:
Cellulosic reactive dyeings are more prone to acid hydrolysis, which give rise to strength loss from repeated commercial laundering. The phenomenon is known as "reactive tendering", which is also the cause of poor wet rubbing fastness and severe strength loss of heavy shade reactive dyeings. The early efforts to understand the mechanism of reactive tendering are reviewed in this paper. Specific attentions are paid to investigations of the mechanisms of reactive tendering at the molecular level. By examining the effect of acid solubilizing groups of the dyes, the electrolytes used for reactive dyeing, and the pH value during souring on reactive tendering as well as the electron withdrawing inductive effect of the reactive groups, it is suggested that reactive tendering is likely to be caused by the electron withdrawing inductive effect of the bonded dye molecules. Computer modeling of glycosidic hydrolysis in the presence of various substituents predicts increase of hydrolysis with the size of the substituent on cellulose, it is suggested that the steric effect plays a more dominant role. However, the phenomenon deserves further investigations in order to understand the mechanism of reactive tendering and to improve the quality of reactive dyeings, especially those with heavy shades.
Keywords:reactive dye  dyeing  reactive tendering  cotton fabric  acid hydrolysis  molecular modeling
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