近代旗袍的造型变革以及裁剪技术

 摘要：本文通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆与上海艺风堂博物馆馆藏的传世旗袍的研究与分析，从早期旗袍的造型演变、近代旗袍的造型变革及裁剪技术的改良为切入点，描述由“繁”到“简”的装饰工艺，论述了由“平肩连袖”到“斜肩接袖”、由“无省”到“有省”的造型结构。指出了出近代旗袍是“融合中西”的经典之作。它成功地完成了从中式传统“平面造型”向西式“立体造型”的完美蜕变的同时，终结了“人适应衣”的时代，开创了“衣适应人”的新时代。

Molding development of Chinese dress and its cutting technology

Based on the research into various kinds of Chinese dress collected and kept in the Folk Costume Exhibition and Learning Hall of Jiangnan University and Shanghai Yifengtang Museum,this article introduces Chinese dress in terms of the molding development,innovation in cutting technology,decoration process from ″complexity to simplicity″,molding construction from ″square shoulder connected with sleeves to sloping shoulder connected with sleeves ″,and from ″without dart to with dart″.It points out that the modern Chinese dress is a classical work combining the Chinese style with the western one,successfully completing the transformation from Chinese traditional ″plane molding″ to western ″stereo molding″ and ending the period of ″adapting person to dress″ and opening the new era of ″ adapting dress to person″.