面料性能对翻驳领倒伏量变化规律的影响

针对翻驳领结构设计中的一大难点——倒伏量,主要研究面料性能对倒伏量变化规律的影响。选择西装常用的6种面料,用KES-FB织物风格仪测试出面料的16个力学性能指标。运用SAS软件对原始数据进行主成分分析,使16个原始变量减少到3个变量,即拉伸回弹性RT、压缩回弹性RC及单位面积质量W;其次,用这6种面料分别制作出5种款式的领子,领座高均为2.5 cm,领面宽依次为3.5、4.5、5.5、6.5、7.5 cm,领面总宽度差值H依次为1、2、3、45、cm,找出6种面料制作每款领子的最佳倒伏量的数值;最后运用SAS软件对RT、RC、W、H与倒伏量进行回归分析,找出了它们之间的定量关系式。

Impact of the fabric performance on the rule of looseness of lapel collar

Designing the looseness of a lapel collar is not an easy work.In this research,the impact of the fabric performance on the rule of looseness of lapel collar is studied.Six kinds of fabrics commonly used for suits are chosen,and 16 mechanical properties of them are tested by KES-FB system respectively.Principal component analysis of the data obtained is conducted by SAS software,minimizing the variables from 16 to 3,i.e.,tensile recovery(RT),compressive resiliency(RC) and weight per unit area(W) of the fabric.Then,5 kinds of lapel collars are made with 6 kinds of fabrics.The length of the collar stand is(2.5 cm) without exception,while the width of the top collar is in the order 3.5,4.5,5.5,6.5,7.5 cm,and the relevant difference of top collar and collar stand width(H) is 1,2,3,4,5 cm.The suitable looseness is found out for each collar.Finally,the correlation of RT,RC,W,H and the looseness is investigated by regression analysis with SAS software,and some quantitative relationship is found.