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西装袖的影响因素及其新结构的设计方法
引用本文:钟利.西装袖的影响因素及其新结构的设计方法[J].上海纺织科技,2011,39(7).
作者姓名:钟利
作者单位:成都纺织高等专科学校服装艺术与工程系,四川成都,610023
摘    要:以影响西装袖的因素作为切入点,分析袖山弧线、袖吃势、袖偏量以及绱袖点对西装袖造型的影响,解剖了袖山高和袖肥的关系,及袖窿弧线与人体肩部曲面的对应参数变化,得出了定性与定量分析的结论,提出了一种新的结构设计方法,满足了西装袖的造型和功能需求。

关 键 词:服装  西服  西装袖  造型  结构  设计  

Factors of suit sleeves and new analytical design method
ZHONG Li.Factors of suit sleeves and new analytical design method[J].Shanghai Textile Science & Technology,2011,39(7).
Authors:ZHONG Li
Affiliation:ZHONG Li (Department of Clothing Arts and Engineering,Chengdu Textile College,Chengdu 610023,China)
Abstract:Based on the factors that affect the suit sleeve,the effects of arc sleeve,sleeve eat potential,sleeve cuff partial volume and shape of points on the sleeve of a suit were analyzed.The relation between sleeve crown height and sleeve width was dissected,and the qualitative and quantitative conclusion referred to the corresponding parameters change between armhole curve and surface of shoulder was obtained.A new design method was proposed to meet the suit sleeve style and functional requirements.
Keywords:garments  western-style cloth  suit cuff  modeling  structure  design  
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