乾隆时期(1736—1795年)造办处《活计档》所载猩猩毡探析

猩猩毡不仅常在清代小说中作为服饰词汇出现,还多见于清宫档案。这些档案提供了许多可研究的信息。文章以乾隆时期造办处《活计档》为研究基础,结合清宫实物和绘画,将猩猩毡所记名称、来源途径、清宫用途进行分类、比对、归纳,旨在通过辨析猩猩毡,探究外来毛织物对中外文化交流和贸易往来的影响。研究结果表明,猩猩毡为一种多彩毛呢,在宫廷得到广泛的应用。猩猩毡大批进入清宫,不仅融入清代乾隆皇帝起居和出行,而且见证乾隆皇帝逐渐奢靡的消费观念和西方毛织物贸易逐渐衰落的过程。

Analysis on Xing-xing felt recorded in the Workshops’Archives of the Zaobanchuduring Emperor Qianlong period of the Qing dynasty

Xing-xing felt is referred to as a costume word in novels of the Qing dynasty.It is also commonly seen in the archives of the imperial court in the Qing dynasty.The archives provide much information that can be studied.This study is intended to classify,compare and summarize the recorded names,origins and applications of Xing-xing felt based on the Workshops’Archives of the Zaobanchu in combination with real objects and paintings of the imperial court in the Qing dynasty during Emperor Qianlong period.Through analyzing Xing-xing felt,this study aims at exploring the influences of foreign wool fabricson Sino-foreign cultural exchange and trade contacts.Research results show that Xing-xing felt is a type of colorful wool fabric and was widely used in the imperial court.The imported Xing-xing felt not only fitted into Emperor Qianlong’s daily life,but also witnessed Emperor Qianlong’s consumption concept that gradually became extravagant and the decline of the trade of western wool fabrics.