保留天然彩色蚕丝纤维中色素的技术探讨

 针对天然彩色蚕丝纤维精炼时色素随丝胶的去除而流失的问题，本文以保留天然彩色蚕丝纤维中色素和颜色特征值为目标，采用生丝接枝、交联和汽蒸的方法，探讨了不同工艺及条件对天然彩色蚕丝相对增重率和颜色特征值的影响。实验结果表明，先接枝后交联的同浴工艺，对提高纤维相对增重率和表观色深度是有利的，其中以柠檬酸为酸介质，丝纤维颜色特征值的变化较小。预汽蒸后，先交联后接枝工艺整体优于先接枝后交联工艺。与未处理的丝纤维相比，处理后丝纤维的饱和度降低，色调偏向绿光。

Discussion on techique to preserve pigments of naturally colored silk

Abstract: For the problem of Naturally Colored Silk's pigment lost with the removal of sericin in refining seriously. In this paper, the main aim is to preserve the pigment of Naturally Colored Silk and color feature by?the?method?of?grafting,cross-linking?and?steaming. The effects of different methods and different conditions on relative weighting and color protecting extent percentage were investigated. The experiment results indicated that: it is favorable for increasing the relative weighting and highlighting the color depth by one-bath technology of first grafting then cross-linking. In this method, citric acid was used as acid medium, and diversification of color feature was insignificant. After pre-streaming, the technology of first grafting then cross-linking is obviously better than the technology of first cross-linking then grafting. Compared with the color feature of unprocessed fiber, the saturation of processed fiber was low down, and the color tone trended to green.