PTT/绢丝混纺织物的风格及服用性能

为了将PTT纤维的形状记忆性与蚕丝优异的服用性能相互融合，以绢纺工艺将PTT纤维与绢丝混纺，制成混纺比为50:50的PTT/绢丝混纺纱，并以其为经纬纱设计织造了5种PTT/绢丝混纺面料，此外还以相同规格织造了3种纯绢纺纱对比试样。测定了这8种织物的手感、悬垂性及保形性(折皱回复性、拉伸回弹性)、透通性(透气、透湿性)和抗起毛起球性能，对比分析了PTT/绢丝混纺织物和纯绢丝织物的风格和服用性能。研究结果表明：PTT纤维对绢纺织物的风格与服用性能有良好的改善作用，与纯绢丝织物相比，PTT/绢丝混纺织物的折皱回复性、拉伸回弹性提高，柔软性和悬垂性好，滑糯性、透通性和抗起毛起球性能略差。

Style and wearing properties of PTT/spun silk blended fabric

In order to integrate the shape memory property of PTT with the excellent wearability of silk, this paper used silk spinning technology to manufacture PTT/spun silk blended yarn with blending ratio of 50:50, and using it as warp and weft designed 5 kinds of PTT/spun silk blended fabrics, in addition also weaved 3 kinds of pure spun silk fabric with the same specifications. Then tested the handle style characteristics, drape, shape preservation(wrinkle and tensile resilience), permeability(air and moisture) and pilling resistance of all the 8 fabrics. Through comparison and analysis of the style and wearing properties of pure spun silk fabric and PTT/spun silk blended fabric, the results shows that compared with pure spun silk fabric, PTT/spun silk blended fabrics’ wrinkle and tensile resilience improve, softness and drape also increase, but smoothness, permeability and pilling resistance decrease.