凉山彝族男裤的形制及结构特征

为利于彝族服饰文化和制作技艺的传承，通过对凉山西昌、昭觉、美姑、越西、布拖、甘洛、喜德等地彝族服饰的田野考察，搜集了所地、什扎、依诺3个语言区的小、中、大裤脚彝族男裤的实物、图片、相关参数，对当地彝族村民、服饰工匠及博物馆相关工作人员进行了访谈录音，了解彝族男裤制作工艺。通过对彝族男裤形制结构特征的分析，并采用衣片拆解还原的方式，绘制出小、中、大裤脚彝族男裤的平面款式图、结构分解图，并结合彝族的文化、历史、习俗和彝族男裤的尺寸信息等进行解析说明，以此了解凉山彝族男裤的形制及结构特征，使凉山彝族服饰文化及技艺得以准确记载，供后人参考。

Shape and structure research on trousers of Liangshan Yi minority men

In order to preserve the cultural inheritance and sewing skills of Yi folk costume, the field work was conducted in Xichang City, Zhaojue County, Meigu County, Yuexi County, Butuo County, Ganluo County, Xide County, etc. , real pictures and related parameters of narrow, medium, and wide leg trouser styles of Yi men′s trousers were, and collected the process of Yi trousers′sewing was through practiced interviews and recorded information from local villagers, tailors and museum staff distributed at the cultural areas which in Yi language are called Suodi, Yinuo and Shizha. The characteristics of the shape and structure, style diagrams and structure exploded view of the narrow, medium and wide leg trouser styles of Yi men′s trousers are generalized by the method of garment dismantling. In combination with Yi people′s culture, history, customs and Yi men′s trousers size information, analysis and results are given out. The work summarizes Yi men′s trousers characteristics of the shape and structures, records Liangshan Yi folk costume culture and skills accurately, and benefits future generations for their reference.