Partitioning and Localization of Fragrances in Surfactant Mixed Micelles

The localization and dynamics of fragrance compounds in surfactant micelles are studied systematically in dependence on the hydrophobicity and chemical structure of the molecules. A broad range of fragrance molecules varying in octanol/water partition coefficients P _ow is employed as probe molecules in an aqueous micellar solution, containing anionic and nonionic surfactants. Diffusion coefficients of surfactants and fragrances obtained by Pulsed Field Gradient (PFG)-NMR yield the micelle/water distribution equilibrium. Three distinct regions along the log(P _ow) axis are identified: hydrophilic fragrances (log(P _ow) < 2) distribute almost equally between micellar and aqueous phases whereas hydrophobic fragrances (log(P _ow) > 3.5) are fully solubilized in the micelles. A steep increase of the incorporated fraction occurs in the intermediate log(P _ow) region. Here, distinct micelle swelling is found, while the incorporation of very hydrophobic fragrances does not lead to swelling. The chemical structure of the probe molecules, in addition to hydrophobicity, influences fragrance partitioning and micelle swelling. Structural criteria causing a decrease of the aggregate curvature (flattening) are identified. ²H-NMR spin relaxation experiments of selectively deuterated fragrances are performed monitoring local mobility of fragrance and leading to conclusions about their incorporation into either micellar interface or micelle core. The tendencies of different fragrance molecules (i) to cause interfacial incorporation, (ii) to lead to a flattening of the micellar curvature and (iii) to incorporate into micelles are shown to be correlated.