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贵州苗族挑花背扇纹样在服装设计中的应用
作者姓名:赵红艳  叶洪光
作者单位:武汉纺织大学服装学院
基金项目:国家社会科学基金(2017FH04829)
摘    要:贵州苗族挑花背扇纹样具有独树一帜而鲜为人知的艺术价值。采用文献研究法和田野调查法,从贵州苗族挑花背扇图案中提取纹样元素,再经过相应的艺术手法重构将纹样应用于服装设计中。研究认为:首先,从贵州地区苗族挑花背扇纹样的提取来看:一方面其纹样种类按题材内容可划分为植物类、动物类、几何类和人物类四大类,多样的纹样题材为现代服装设计中图案设计提供了丰富的素材;另一方面其纹样造型均是将现实中可见的形象经过苗人的想象变的抽象化因而极具艺术感,其抽象化的处理方式对现代服装设计有着重要的借鉴价值。其次,从贵州苗族挑花背扇纹样重构的角度上看,元素可通过增强量感的重复构成法和增强质感的肌理构成法两种方法进行重构处理,从而丰富纹样元素应用于现代服装设计中的表现形式。

关 键 词:贵州苗族  挑花  背扇  纹样  应用

Study on Application of Patterns of Cross-Stitch Beishan of Guizhou Miao Nationality in Fashion Design
Authors:ZHAO Hong-yan  YE Hong-guang
Affiliation:(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan Hubei 430073,China)
Abstract:The unique artistic value of cross-stitch Beishanpattern of Guizhou Miao Nationalityis not well known until now. Literature research methodand comparative research method were adopted in thispaper. The pattern elements were extracted from the cross-stitch Beishan of Miao nationality in Guizhou and then were appliedto fashion design through the reconstruction of the corresponding artistic techniques. The author holds the opinions that seen from the perspectives ofthe extractionof patterns of cross-stitch Beishan, on the one hand, the patterns can be divided into four categories: plants, animals, geometry and characters according to the theme and content.Diversified patterns provide rich materials for the pattern design of modern clothing design;On the other hand, its abstract patterns modellingcome from the figuresin reality, which reflects the rich imagination of the Miao people and has important reference value for modern clothing design. In addition, seen from the perspectives ofthe reconstruction ofpatterns of cross-stitch Beishan. The elements of cross-stitch Beishanpattern of Guizhou Miao Nationality can be reconstructed by the repeated constitution method of enhancing sense volume and the texture composition method of enhancing texture, which enriches the expression form of pattern elements applied in modern clothing design.
Keywords:Guizhou Miao nationality  cross-stitch  Beishan  pattern  application
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