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永泰公主墓壁画中持盒侍女服装复原
引用本文:吕晓娟,徐军. 永泰公主墓壁画中持盒侍女服装复原[J]. 纺织高校基础科学学报, 2021, 0(1): 61-66
作者姓名:吕晓娟  徐军
作者单位:西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院
基金项目:陕西省自然科学基金(2014JM2-504);陕西省高等教育科学研究项目(XGH1913)。
摘    要:为充分利用传统服饰文化元素,促进文创产品的研发,对永泰公主墓壁画中持盒侍女服装的款式、色彩、纹样、面料及侍女妆容进行分析。通过文、图、实物比较互证法及图像分析法,对持盒侍女服装进行图像复原,得到永泰公主墓持盒侍女服装效果图、服装款式图、面料纹样效果图。研究显示:持盒侍女服装形制为襦裙制,襦为直领对襟、窄袖窄身,半袖为直领对襟、短衣身,裙为高腰、带褶裥;侍女所着上衣偏橙黄色系且为中调、高纯度,裙偏红色系且为低调、低纯度;推定持盒侍女半袖和裙装饰有联珠团窠纹、宝相花纹等。

关 键 词:服装复原  壁画服装  侍女服装  永泰公主墓  唐代服饰  服饰文化

Costume restoration of maid holding a box in the tomb of princess Yongtai
LYU Xiaojuan,XU Jun. Costume restoration of maid holding a box in the tomb of princess Yongtai[J]. Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities, 2021, 0(1): 61-66
Authors:LYU Xiaojuan  XU Jun
Affiliation:(School of Apparel and Art Design,Xi’an Polytechnic University,Xi’an 710048,China)
Abstract:In order to make full use of the cultural elements of traditional costumes and promote the research and development of cultural and creative products,the shape,style,color,pattern,fabric and maid′s makeup are analyzed in the mural.Through the comparison of characters,images and objects,image analysis,the clothing of maid with box is visually restored,and the effect pictures of clothing,clothing style drawing and clothing pattern drawing are obtained.The research shows that the shape and structure of the maid holding a box is Ru skirt.The Ru skirt has a straight collar,double-breasted and narrow cuffs.The short sleeves has a straight collar,double-breasted and a shorter length.The skirt has a high waist and pleats.The coat of the maid is orange and high purity.The skirt is red and low purity.Most of the outer coats and skirts are decorated with plant patterns.
Keywords:restoration of clothing  clothing in mural  clothing of maid  tomb of princess Yongtai  clothing in Tang dynasty  clothing culture
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