南宋赵伯澐墓“编织鞋”技艺研究北大核心CSCD

浙江省台州市黄岩区南宋赵伯澐墓出土一双丝质“编织鞋”,其制作技艺精巧独特,令人称奇。文章运用实物观察、比较分析、推理验证等研究方法,首先对实物进行观察分析,描述其各部分基本特征;然后将“编织鞋”与其他古代鞋履进行比较,宏观上推测其制作方法,进而转入微观视角,绘制鞋面组织结构图,推测鞋面成形工艺;最后以实践的方式进行验证。研究表明:赵伯澐墓“编织鞋”实际是采用了满地环编绣的装饰技法,并非严格意义上的“编织鞋”。通过研究不仅有利于保护与传承传统文化,同时也有助于启发当代织绣设计的创新发展。

Research on the technique of "Woven Shoes" unearthed from Zhao Boyun' s Tomb in the Southern Song Dynasty

The tomb of Zhao Boyun excavated in the spring of 2016 in Huangyan District, Taizhou City, Zhejiang Province is a tomb of the Southern Song Dynasty. The owner of the tomb, Zhao Boyun, the seventh grandson of Zhao Kuangyin, the founding emperor of the Northern Song Dynasty, was born in the 25th year of Shaoxing (1155) and died in the 9th year of Jiading (1216). A large number of precious and exquisite cultural relics were unearthed from the tomb, in which silk and clothing accounted for the majority. These clothes of different shapes and silk fabrics of different varieties provide important research materials for the studies on the costume system and the ingenious technique of silk weaving and embroidery in the Southern Song Dynasty. Among these dazzling and precious silk cultural relics, the shoes worn by the tomb owner when he was buried are particularly eye-catching, being named " woven shoes" after being excavated by archaeologists for the obvious woven texture on its surface. This paper chooses this pair of "woven shoes" as the research object to discuss its unique production technique. The article mainly uses the methods of physical observation, comparison and analysis, folk investigation, reasoning and verification and so on to study the production process of the shoes, and the main content includes: I) Observing the "woven shoes" as a whole, analyzing the basic characteristics of each part, and comparing the " woven shoes" with ancient shoes unearthed in other areas and other shoes unearthed from the same tomb. The obvious stitching traces can be found on the central line of the shoe face and the central line of the heel, which are actually seams. The topline edging of the shoes is also a common stitch used in ancient shoes. Therefore, the steps to make the vamp of the shoes should be making two planes with needle looping structure according to the shape of the shoes, then suturing them together, and finally wrapping the edges with stitches. It is not the integrated weaving. II) After speculating on the whole, from a macro perspective to a micro perspective, this study begins with the drawing of the structure diagram of the vamp. Based on previous studies, it is speculated that the vamp is actually decorated with the needle looping embroidery, and the floral pattern on the vamp is formed by regular drop stitches. III) Shifting from theory to practice, this study selects the embroidery of a rectangular pattern as an example and verifies the aforementioned speculation by experiment means. Through needle looping embroidery according to the rules of drop stitches in the structure diagram, the structure and appearance effects consistent with the real shoes are obtained. Finally, through the process restoration of a pair of "woven shoes" in the same way, the speculation is proved to be correct. The article draws the following conclusions: strictly speaking, the "woven shoes" excavated from the tomb of Zhao Boyun are made by embroidery rather than weaving, more specifically, needle looping embroidery, which is a unique craft combining loop weaving with embroidery. This pair of shoes reflects the superb ingenuity of weaving and embroidery in the Southern Song Dynasty. The technique of needle looping embroidery is an important part of Chinese excellent traditional culture, and is worthy of protection, inheritance and promotion. Focusing on the study of a pair of shoes unearthed from tomb, this article not only conducts meticulous observation and analysis of the shoes, but also compares it with other unearthed cultural relics. At the same time, the research method of experimental replication is used to combine theory with practice to enhance the research credibility. © 2022 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.