黔东南■家女性盛装技艺特征与文化内涵

贵州黔东南亻革]家人依山傍水而居,少与外界交流,因此其女性盛装民族与艺术特征鲜明,反映出文化与艺术的双重属性,具有较高的研究价值。文章以黔东南亻革]家女性盛装为研究对象,通过查阅历史文献资料结合实地调研的方法,以图像学和社会学为角度,对黔东南一带亻革]家女性盛装的构成形态、着装步骤、技艺特征、文化内涵进行系统的梳理与分析。研究表明,亻革]家女性盛装中运用的刺绣工艺独具特色,技艺精湛,蜡染纹样题材独特,构图严谨,充分体现了亻革]家妇女的智慧与勤劳。另外,亻革]家女性盛装所表现出的文化内涵是亻革]家人最宝贵的精神财富,亻革]家人正是通过服饰这个媒介,构建了本族群的社会记忆与历史记忆,强化了族群认同,更增强了民众间的凝聚力。

Technical characteristic and cultural connotation of Gejia female costume in Southeast Guizhou

The Gejia people live at the foot of mountain and beside rives in Southeast Guizhou. They seldom communicate with the outside world, so the female costume of Gejia has obvious national and artistic characteristics and reflects the dual attributes of culture and art. It has high research value. This paper took female costume of Gejia in Southeast Guizhou as the research object, and then, systematically analyzed the composition form, dressing steps, technical characteristics and cultural connotation of Southeast Guizhou’s female costume from the perspectives of iconology and sociology by combining historical literature and field investigation. The result shows that the embroidery techniques applied in female costume of Gejia are unique and exquisite, and the patterns dyed by batik are unique, with precision picture composition. These fully reflect wisdom and diligence of Gejia women. In addition, the cultural connotation displayed in female costume is the most precious spiritual wealth of Gejia people. By taking the costume as a medium, the social and historic memories were constructed, and ethnic identity and cohesion were strengthened.