苏绣中的服饰品绣与画绣主要针法研究

以江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的近代民间服饰品与苏州工艺美术馆等地馆藏的画绣实物为研究对象,结合相关研究成果,分别统计、解析了服饰品绣与画绣中主要针法,并从表现方式与刺绣主体的角度,分析了两者的区别与联系。发现在题材上,服饰品绣的纹样简单抽象,写意夸张,画绣底稿意境悠远,艺术性强。针法上,服饰品刺绣针法规律性强、特色明显,画绣针法灵活多变,没有固定的程式。在用线上,服饰品绣材质更加多样,纹理明显,画绣用线更细。在用色上,服饰品绣善用对比色,注重色彩间的呼应关系,质朴和谐,画绣以画稿用色为基色,清丽淡雅。因此,对苏绣研究体系的完善与苏绣技艺的传承有积极意义。

Research on main stitches of painting embroidery and embroidered costume in Soochow embroidery

Targeting modern folk costumes collected by folk clothing and accessory museum of Jiangnan University and painting embroidery collected by Soochow arts and crafts museums as well as combining with related research achievements,this thesis calculates and analyzes main stenches in embroidered customs and painting embroidery analyzing the difference and relationship between the two from perspectives of expression forms and embroidery subjects.In the aspect of themes,the embroidered costumes have simple and abstract dermatoglyphic pattern and exaggerated conception,while painting embroidery has profound artistic conception and strong artistic quality.In the aspect of stitches,embroidered costumes hold strong regularity and obvious characteristics,while painting embroidery has flexible stitches.In the aspect of threads,the material of embroidered costumes is various and the texture is obvious,while the threads of painting embroidery are thinner.In the aspect of color,embroidered costumes are good at using contrast colors and pay much attention to the connection of colors,while painting embroidery used the color of sketch as the basic color,which is simple and elegant.This study has a positive significance to inherit Soochow embroidery craftsmanship and improve Soochow embroidery research system.