基于人体曲面的螺旋式分割线的设计与运用研究

为满足女装设计的个性化需求,提高分割线在合体女装造型中的创新性应用,以女性人体的曲面变化规律为依据,突破传统女装基本主体结构,提出自上而下非对称的螺旋式分割线的设计概念。将立体裁剪与平面纸样技术结合,通过案例分析,总结出螺旋式分割线的设计方法。结果表明:螺旋式分割线可使合体女装更好的适应人体曲面,形成特定的空间关系,在实践设计中,合理处理衣身主体与局部在结构中的连接关系,针对布料斜裁的特点对平面纸样进行整理与修正,可提高纸样的准确性与可操作性,为企业与专业教学实践在设计与技术创新方面提供了新的思路。

Research on design and application of spiral structure line based on human body surface

In order to meet the personalized needs of women′s wear design and improve the innovative application of dividing line in the modeling of form-fitting women′s wear,the concept of topdown asymmetric spiral dividing line design was put forward on the basis of the curve changing law of female body and breaking through the traditional basic body structure.The design method of spiral dividing line was summarized through the case analysis by combing draping and planar pattern technology.The results show that the design of spiral dividing line can make form-fitting dress adapt to the human body surface better,and forming a specific spatial relations.In the design practice,reasonable process the connection relations between the main garment body and the local structure,finish and correct the plane pattern according to the cut characteristics of the material,can improve the accuracy of the pattern and operability,and provide new thoughts for teaching practice and enterprise innovation in the design and technology.