丝绺分析法在褶纹服装立体裁剪中的应用

由于丝绺影响褶纹服装成型后的衣身平衡和形态稳定，且在褶纹服装的立体裁剪过程中也发挥重要作用，为此，结合实例，在褶纹服装的立体裁剪中，通过分析影响衣身平衡的部位如领口、肩部、门襟、下摆等的丝绺方向，快速准确找到立体裁剪操作的切入口，深入解析丝绺在操作中对褶纹服装褶量控制、褶纹的构成形式、褶纹操作的起始位置等方面的影响。研究结果表明，丝绺分析法作为褶纹服装立体裁剪的操作基础是一种行之有效的方法，通过观察和推断服装各重要部位的丝绺走向，可以大体确定褶纹服装立体裁剪的操作方法和步骤。

Application of across-the-grain in draping of garment pleats

Across-the-grain of fabric plays an important role in draping of pleats and keeping structural balance and stable pattern. Examples from application help make a careful study of across-the-grain’s influence on parts chained with structural balance from neckline, shoulder, waistband to hem, which indicates a quick and accurate access to draping. Therefore, it is possible to have a deep and clear understanding of the relation between across-the-grain and pleats. Besides, the study of across-the-grain could be the practical base for draping of ruffles garments. An observation and prejudge of across-the-grain in important parts of garments will make it easier to keep the work of draping done.