| 经编单层立体提花鞋面织物的花型设计与生产工艺 |
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| 引用本文： | 钟君,丛洪莲,张燕婷,张爱军. 经编单层立体提花鞋面织物的花型设计与生产工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(2): 111-116. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20160406306 |
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| 作者姓名： | 钟君 丛洪莲 张燕婷 张爱军 |
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| 作者单位： | 江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡,214122 |
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| 基金项目： | 国家自然科学基金项目，江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目，中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金重点项目 |
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| 摘 要： | 为优化经编单层立体提花鞋面织物的设计与生产，提出了一种鞋面样板设计及贾卡花型设计的方法，并研究了其生产工艺。在鞋面设计方面，通过基线设计法获得鞋面各特征点的位置；归纳了鞋面平行配置、鞋头和鞋后跟交错配置这两种排版方法的设计原则及注意事项；根据鞋面美观性及功能性需求，探究了贾卡花型的设计方法。在生产工艺方面，首先分析了贾卡同向垫纱、反向垫纱的提花原理，然后基于市场上现有单层提花鞋面织物的生产工艺，提出了鞋面原料、组织结构、工艺参数及后整理的快速设计方法，为单层立体提花鞋面织物的设计与生产提供参考依据。
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| 关 键 词： | 经编 立体提花 鞋面织物 花型设计 生产工艺 |
| 收稿时间： | 2016-04-25 |
Pattern design and production process of warp-knitted single-layer stereo jacquard shoe-upper |
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| ZHONG Jun,CONG Honglian,ZHANG Yanting,ZHANG Aijun. Pattern design and production process of warp-knitted single-layer stereo jacquard shoe-upper[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017, 38(2): 111-116. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20160406306 |
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| Authors: | ZHONG Jun CONG Honglian ZHANG Yanting ZHANG Aijun |
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| Abstract: | In order to optimize design and production of the single-layer stereo jacquard shoe-upper, a shoe upper patern design method and ajacquard pattern design method were put forward in this paper, and the production process of this fabric was researched. In the design of shoe-upper, shoe-upper feature points’ positions were obtained by the baseline design method.Design principles and considerations of the shoe-uppers were summarized, which were set in parallel configuration and staggered arrangement. And the jacquard design method was explored according to the shoe upper appearance and functionality requirements. In the production process, the jacquard principles of lapping in the same and reverse direction were firstly studied. Secondly, this fabric’s design methods of material, structure design, process parameters and the finishing process were summarized in reference to existing single-layer shoe-upper fabrics’ manufacturing technology. It is contribute to design and product the single layer structure jacquard shoe-upper. |
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| Keywords: | warp-knitting single layer structure stereo jacquard shoe-upper pattern design manufacturing technology |
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