非线性波浪在渐变水深中的传播与破碎

本文利用保角变换将角形域变为带形域,用摄动法求解了非线性波在渐变水深中的传播与变形。并据三阶近似解讨论了波面变形、破碎形态、流速场及破碎波高等波动特性,取得了可与实测资料相比较的结果。     

PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OF WAVES ON SLOPING BEACH

In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidalwave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMACmethod,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracingmethod.The.numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with experimentaldata,and the breaker indexes depending on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previ-ous results.Furthermore,compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and bythe authors,the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numericalmethod is also satisfactory.     

倾斜底坡上波浪的传播与破碎

本文根据TUMMAC方法探讨了孤立波、微幅波和二阶Stokes波在1/30底坡上的传播与破碎,并采用示踪法测得了相同底坡上濒临破碎波的速度场。与前人的实验结果相比较表明,计算所得的波浪外形变化是一致的,依据运动学标准所得的各项破碎指标也大致相同;与岩垣及本文实验结果比较表明,速度的分布趋势也是一致的。     

斜向和多向波浪的破碎指标研究

该文通过水池物理模型实验,研究了在1:15的斜坡条件下斜向和多向波浪中破碎的特点。根据波浪类型和岸坡条件将破碎指标分为四类,总结了每一类破碎指标公式的通用形式和系数。对实验中正向和斜向规则波、正向和斜向不规则波、正向和多向不规则波的破碎指标进行了比较和分析。研究结果表明:同等条件下,斜向波的破碎指标较正向波偏大,基于不规则波有效波高的破碎指标小于规则波的,而多向波在波高较大时的破碎波高与正向不规则波相比偏小。     

斜向流作用下波浪的变形及破碎

当波浪自无流区斜向进入有流区后，不仅波要素发生变化，波浪传播方向也发生变化，即产生折射．作者曾根据线性波浪理论计算了波浪折射后的波要素变化情况。作者也曾通过实验分析和理论计算对正向流作用下波浪的变形及破碎问题进行过详细的研究．为了进一步研究波浪折射对变形及破碎的影响，本文计算和分析了外向流作用下缓坡上规则波浪和不规则波浪的变形及破碎过程，取得了以下两方面的成果：１）正向流作用下波浪的破碎指标及研究方法可以应用于斜向流情况；２）波浪的折射在一般情况下使波高降低，从而使破碎点向浅水方向推移。     

浅水区波浪的破碎指标

基于对波浪破碎的几何学、运动学及动力学三种指标的分析比较和观测资料的验证,本文提出可以合田良实的结果为基础修正Miche的H/(Ltanhkd)=α值,并提出了适用于纯波及波浪水流共存时的临界α值。它们比Miche的0.142值为小,这一结果已为实验所证实。     

缓坡上不规则波浪的破碎指标

在文献[1]中作者在总结了已有研究成果的基础上,通过实验分析和理论计算,提出规则波浪的破碎指标宜采取合田的相对波高极值(H/d)_b与Michell及Miche的极限波陡指标(H/L)_b。本文将其推广应用于不规则波。     

Modeling of random wave transformation with strong wave-induced coastal currents

The propagation and transformation of multi-directional and uni-directional random waves over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features are studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory investigation indicates that wave energy convergence and divergence cause strong coastal currents to develop and inversely modify the wave fields. A coastal spectral wave model, based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction effect （WABED）, is used to simulate the transformation of random waves over the complicated bathymetry. The diffraction effect in the wave model is derived from a parabolic approximation of wave theory, and the mean energy dissipation rate per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking is parameterized by the bore-based formulation with a breaker index of 0.73. The numerically simulated wave field without considering coastal currents is different from that of experiments, whereas model results considering currents clearly reproduce the intensification of wave height in front of concave shorelines.     

海岸底床剖面演变模拟与分析

近岸水下沙坝的位置与高度是河口海岸底床变化的主要原因,波浪与地形之间的耦合与反馈造成了沙坝向海连续迁移。使用LITPACK的添加模块LITPROF模拟沙质海岸剖面形态变化主要是沙坝的形成与迁移,通过模拟不同波浪入射角及剖面坡度对沙坝形成与迁移的影响,得出沙坝主要在波浪破碎点处形成,波浪入射角增大,沙坝离岸迁移越快;底床坡度越陡,沙坝产生与迁移越快,岸滩变形也越大。     

堤防工程设计波浪爬高分析与计算

根据有关规范及资料,综合论述了堤防工程设计时,由风场要素推求设计波浪要素、波浪传播变形及波浪爬高分析计算方法,结合实际工程对不同方法进行比较,提出合适计算方法.     

APPLICATION OF MAXIMUM ENTROPY PRINCIPLE METHOD TO THE STUDY OF WAVE CLIMATE STATISTICAL CHARACTERISTICS

The Maximum Entropy Principle (MEP) method is elaborated, and the corresponding probability density evaluation method for the random fluctuation system is introduced, the goal of the article is to find the best fitting method for the wave climate statistical distribution. For the first time, a kind of new maximum entropy probability distribution (MEP distribution) expression is deduced in accordance with the second order moment of a random process. Different from all the fitting methods in the past, the MEP distribution can describe the probability distribution of any random fluctuation system conveniently and reasonably. If the moments of the random signal is limited to the second order, that is, the ratio of the root-mean-square value to the mean value of the random variable is obtained from the random sample, the corresponding MEP distribution can be computed according to the deduced expression in this essay. The concept of the wave climate is introduced here, and the MEP distribution is applied to fit the probability density distributions of the significant wave height and spectral peak period. Take the Mexico Gulf as an example, three stations at different locations, depths and wind wave strengths are chosen in the half-closed gulf,the significant wave height and spectral peak period distributions at each station are fitted with the MEP distribution, the Weibull distribution and the Log-normal distribution respectively, the fitted results are compared with the field observations, the results show that the MEP distribution is the best fitting method, and the Weibull distribution is the worst one when applied to the significant wave height and spectral peak period distributions at different locations, water depths and wind wave strengths in the Gulf. The conclusion shows the feasibility and reasonability of fitting wave climate statistical distributions with the deduced MEP distributions in this essay, and furthermore proves the great potential of MEP method to the study of wave statistical properties.     

黄河宁蒙河段冰期洪水波运动过程中的变形分析

河道中冰盖的存在会影响到洪水波的演进变形。以黄河宁蒙河段为研究对象,将马斯京根法尝试应用于冰期洪水计算,分析了马斯京根法参数与糙率的关系,比较了冰盖冻结增厚和融化减薄过程对洪水波变形的影响差异。研究结果表明,将马斯京根法应用于冰期洪水计算是可行的;断面的糙率越大,洪水波传播时间越久,变形越大;冰盖冻结增厚过程中,洪水波的变形存在先增加再减少而后又增加的现象;冰盖融化减薄过程中,洪水波随冰厚的减薄而变形增大。相同冰厚下,两种过程的变形程度存在交点。交点之前的冰厚范围,冰盖融化减薄时的洪水波变形更大;交点之后的冰厚范围,冰盖冻结增厚时的洪水波变形更大。     

近岛礁波浪谱演化逆问题研究

波浪从深水区传播到岛礁附近,受海底地形影响将发生一系列复杂的浅水变形,且根据已有现场观测资料发现其波浪谱型与目前常用的海浪谱存在明显的差异。该文基于随机波浪理论,通过近岛礁波浪谱的演化分析,解决了在模型试验中如何生成符合岛礁附近特殊波浪谱型这一波浪演化的逆问题,并通过近岛礁水池模型试验数据验证了该方法的准确性和可行性,为后续模型试验中近岛礁波浪演化的精确模拟奠定了基础。     

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF EXTREME WAVE GENERATION USING VOF METHOD

Numerical simulations of extreme wave generation are carried out by using the Volume Of Fluid (VOF) method. Extreme waves are generated based on wave focusing in a 2-D numerical model. To validate the capability of the VOF-based model described in this article, the propagation of regular waves is computed and compared with the theoretical results. By adjusting the phases of wave components, extreme waves are formed at given time and given position in the computation. The numerical results are compared with theoretical solutions and experimental data. It is concluded that the present model based on the VOF technique can provide acceptably accurate numerical results to serve practical purposes.     

钻孔弹模法在灌浆岩体质量检测中的应用

主要介绍采用钻孔弹模法和声波法对灌浆处理后的坝基岩体进行质量检测的原理和方法。通过选取具有代表性的点进行钻孔弹模试验和孔内波速测量，获取灌浆后坝基岩体的变形特性参数，得到波速值Vp与弹性模量值E之间的潜在关系，然后利用波速对岩体质量进行分级和评价。对比分析表明，该方法对灌浆岩体质量检测是有效的。     

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF IRREGULAR WAVE-SIMULATING IRREGULAR WAVE TRAIN

In real sea states, damage incidents on offshore floating structures are not due to the whole time series of wave elevation characterized as statistical one but due to few extreme waves or wave groups in irregular wave train. So, using CFD tools to precisely simulate predetermined irregular wave train will lay sound basis for understanding the local characteristic of the flow field and impact loads on offshore floating structures when damage incidents occur. In this article, the generation of single extreme wave is investigated in a numerical wave tank. First, experimental irregular wave train is decomposed into certain number of small-amplitude waves. The Fourier series expansion is performed to determine the amplitude and initial phase angle of each wave component. A hydrodynamic transfer function is used to calculate the amplitude of wave-maker motion associated with each wave component. Then superposition is carried out on all of the wave-maker motion components to get the final wave-maker motion. With the wave-maker motion as input, simulation of the single extreme irregular wave train is modeled successfully. Then the method is applied to simulating a much more complicated irregular wave train. Once again main features of the complicated irregular wave train are reproduced compared with experiment carried out in the new deepwater experimental basin at Shanghai Jiao Tong University. In the simulation, dynamic mesh method is enabled to model the piston-type wave-maker, the Volume Of Fluid (VOF) method is employed to capture the free surface and a dissipation zone is introduced to deal with wave reflection.     

A HYBRID METHOD FOR THE SIMULATION OF WAVE SPECTRUM TRANSFORMATION AND BREAKING PHENOMENA ON A SLOPE

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THE VOF METHOD FOR STUDY OF WAVE RUN-UP AND BREAKING ON A SLOPING STRUCTURE

The volume of fluid method(VOF method)for numerical simulations describing wave run-up on a sloping structure including the overturning,breaking and.merging phenomena is presented.The flow motions are governed by the classical,two-dimen-sional Navier-Stokes equation for incompressible fluid.Computational results concerning the time evolution of the free surface and pressure distribution along water bed and slope boundary are given,showing how an initial solitary wave undergoes run-up,overturning,breaking and merging on the slope.It is found that most of the wave energy is lost after the wave breaking and merging.