Nearshore-offshore exchanges in multi-basin coastal waters: Observations and three-dimensional modeling in Lake Erie

Nearshore-offshore exchanges through upwelling events and subsequent formation of internal Kelvin waves and coastal-jets are expected in the multi-basin coastal waters of Lake Erie; however, these phenomena have yet to be confirmed in the field or numerically modeled. Here, we demonstrate these physical processes in Lake Erie through extensive field data analysis and high-resolution three-dimensional hydrodynamic modeling. The validated model successfully reproduces dominant physical processes in the offshore and nearshore waters including surface seiches (~14?h), near-inertial waves (~17?h) and upwelling events (5–10?days). We show that upwelling events are the predominant nearshore physical processes, and are energized when winds accelerate the epilimnetic waters to the south, causing the thermocline front to move up into the north shore. After the wind subsides, the elevated thermoclines simultaneously form two separate cyclonically propagating internal Kelvin waves in the central and the eastern basins following by two coastal-jets at phase speeds of 0.22?ms^?1 and 0.37?ms^?1 within 5–15?km off the shoreline, respectively. The predominant south-west winds limit the presence of Kelvin waves only to the northern parts of each basin, where the bathymetry allows, and disappear when shoreline morphology no longer maintain these waves due to nonzero cross-shore transports at the coastal boundary layer. Intrusions of hypolimnetic waters through upwelling events contribute 10–30% to the net cross-shore transport, and are most pronounced in May and June when the offshore thermocline is shallow. The intermittent strong westward nearshore currents by Kelvin waves are in the opposite direction of seasonal eastward currents.     

Sources and scales of near-bottom turbulent mixing in large meromictic Lake Iseo

Mixing dynamics in the bottom boundary layer (BBL) of lakes is of primary importance for mediating mass and heat fluxes across the upper sediment. In lakes with depth of several hundred meters, the BBL mixing is often suggested to be low; however, quantitative information from these depths is extremely rare. We assessed the mixing conditions in the BBL of Lake Iseo, a 256 m deep, meromictic Italian lake, where anoxia and accumulation of phosphorus is a major issue. High-resolution temperature and currents measurements demonstrated regular development of turbulence at 220 m depth, with dissipation rates of the turbulent kinetic energy up to 10⁻⁷ W kg⁻¹, characteristic of a shear boundary layer. Analysis of temperature and oxygen dynamics revealed a direct link between the turbulence intensification in the BBL and the passage of a 90-h period basin-scale internal wave. This slow oscillatory motion was attributed to lake-wide internal waves of second vertical mode, whose effect in the upper part of the water column was much less profound. The wave passages were able to increase hypolimnetic velocities above 1 cm s⁻¹, to produce thermal instability across the BBL and to significantly enhance turbulent mixing in the deepest waters. During periods of high velocity bursts, the chemical stratification in the BBL was effectively eroded while direct sediment resuspension was unlikely. The new results reveal the turbulent character of the bottom boundary mixing in deep lakes, highlighting the direct link to wind-driven motions and important effects on the water–sediment exchange of solutes.     

Wave Action and Bottom Shear Stresses in Lake Erie

For Lake Erie, the amplitudes and periods of wind-driven, surface gravity waves were calculated by means of the SMB hindcasting method. Bottom orbital velocities and bottom shear stresses were then calculated using linear wave theory and Kajiura's (1968) turbulent oscillating boundary layer analysis. These calculations were made for south-west and north wind directions and a steady wind speed of 40 km hr^?1. Calculated bottom shear stresses are related to the textural properties of surficial Lake Erie sediments as determined by Thomas et al. (1976). The bottom shear stresses, especially under prevailing southwest wind conditions, control the textural characteristics of surface sediments in Lake Erie. In particular, wave-induced bottom shear stresses are probably the most important energy source for sediment entrainment.     

随机波浪边界层的数值模拟与分析

该文基于雷诺平均的Navier-Stokes方程和k-ω两方程紊流模型建立了随机波浪边界层数学模型,模拟了粗糙底床上方的随机波浪边界层流速、床面剪切应力和紊动能量分布,计算结果与实测数据吻合良好。探讨了随机波浪边界层水动力特性,发现随机波浪时间序列中各个子波的紊动能量近似随该子波均方根自由振荡速度平方的增大而线性增大,但各个子波的紊动能量还受到上一个子波紊动能量传递的影响,体现了随机波浪与规则波浪的区别。整个随机波浪时间序列的有效摩阻系数和单个子波的摩阻系数均与前人实验数据和经验公式较为一致。     

Impacts of wind waves on sediment transport in a large,shallow lake

Lake Okeechobee is a large, shallow subtropical lake, located in south Florida. Over the last several decades, Lake Okeechobee has experienced accelerated eutrophication due to excessive phosphorus loads from agricultural run‐off. Recycling of phosphorus from bottom sediments through resuspension is critical to addressing eutrophication of the lake and for water quality management. The present study investigates the impacts of wind waves on sediment transport in Lake Okeechobee, using measured data and the Lake Okeechobee Environmental Model (LOEM). The LOEM was fully calibrated and verified with more than 10 years of measured data in previous studies. Analysis of the measured data indicates significant wave height (SWH) and suspended sediment concentration are closely correlated to the wind speed in the lake. The nonlinear interaction of high‐frequency wind waves with relatively low‐frequency currents in the boundary layer plays a key role in sediment deposition/resuspension. Without considering the effects of wind waves, the bottom shear stress can be greatly underestimated. The spatial variations of key variables for sediment modelling, including SWH, water depth, orbital velocity, current velocity, bottom shear stress and sediment concentration, are discussed. In general, the near‐bottom wave velocity (and the associated bottom shear stress) is greater than or the same order of magnitude as the near‐bed current velocity (and the associated bottom shear stress) in this shallow water system. Although the sediment zones of Lake Okeechobee were described in previous studies, few published papers discussed its formation mechanisms. The findings of the present study include that the multiyear averaged bottom shear stress with wind‐wave effect plays a key role in forming the spatial patterns of the sediment zones. The study results are currently being used in lake management and in developing strategies for reducing phosphorus in the lake.     

The thermal variability of the waters of Fathom Five National Marine Park,Lake Huron

Measurements of the thermal stratification at 3 locations within Fathom Five National Marine Park in Lake Huron, Ontario during the summers of 2006 and 2007 found large oscillations in the position of the thermocline. These oscillations led to considerable variability in the temperature at a given depth, with frequent changes in temperature at a rate of 5 °C per hour, and brief periods where temperatures changed at the rate of 10 °C per hour. The thermal stress due to such fast rates of temperature change has been previously implicated in negative effects on many aquatic organisms. The thermocline was observed to move by as much as 20 m vertically, and had dominant periods of oscillation of 12, 17 and 24 h. The strongest temperature variability occurs in the depth range of 10–20 m, which accounts for 20% of the total lakebed area within Fathom Five. The temperature variability was lowest in deep regions well below the thermocline and at a sheltered area behind a reef. This variability was a ubiquitous feature of the water column of Fathom Five during the summer stratification, and the impact of these frequent short-term thermal fluctuations on benthic and fish habitat is discussed in this note.     

Resuspension of bottom sediment by an internal wave in Lake Biwa

An internal wave‐induced resuspension of bottom sediment and resultant changes in water chemistry were investigated in the sublittoral area of Lake Biwa in the late stage of the stagnant period. The thermocline was measured at between depths of 15 and 20 m at the beginning of the observation and rapidly dropped by 5 m within 3 h. The downward movement of the thermocline resulted in markedly increased turbidity at the top of the thermocline (20 m in water depth). Concentrations of dissolved methane synchronistically increased with turbidity, especially in the top of the thermocline where there was the highest turbidity. Total dissolved phosphorus and particulate phosphorus also increased in the thermocline. In contrast, the soluble reactive phosphate concentration decreased with time. An increase in the concentrations of particulate metals (aluminium, iron and titanium), which probably originated from mineral particles, was more marked in the water sample collected at 1 m above the bottom than at the peak of turbidity. The results indicated that an internal wave caused resuspension of the bottom sediment and also affected the water chemistry.     

Vertical oscillations of the thermocline caused by internal waves modify coldwater pelagic fish distribution: Results from a large stratified lake

Fishes typically occupy a species-specific temperature range, with their occupied depth being related to the lake’s temperature profile. When a fish’s preferred temperature range coincides with the thermocline, the location of their preferred thermal habitat is influenced by the rise and fall of internal waves, leading to possible changes in fish depth. These internal waves are common in large, stratified lakes, yet we do not know how they affect the spatial distribution and behavior of freshwater fishes. We conducted nighttime hydroacoustic surveys in a large, deep embayment of a large thermally stratified lake to observe whether pelagic fish respond to vertical oscillations of the thermocline caused by internal waves. The coldwater pelagic fish in our study (primarily cisco, Coregonus artedi) typically occupied a narrow vertical band approximately 5–8 m thick and temperatures between 10.8 ± 0.8–13.6 ± 1.6 °C (fishes sized 106–500 mm), just below the thermocline (centered around 15–17 °C). Importantly, the upper bound of fish depth varied in response to vertical thermocline movements associated with internal waves, suggesting fish respond to changes in their physical environment on timescales commensurate with basin-scale internal wave periods (hours to days), to remain within their preferred thermal habitat. Dissolved-oxygen levels were typically above avoidance thresholds of these fish, thus not likely exerting a strong influence on fish location. Our findings emphasize the need to account for internal waves when designing hydroacoustic and netting surveys, as thermocline movements can influence where fish are located.     

Laboratory-derived light and temperature preferences of juvenile mysid shrimp, Mysis diluviana

The depth selection behaviors of juvenile mysids, Mysis diluviana, exposed to different temperature and light gradients in the laboratory were compared to those observed in previous studies on adult mysids to determine whether mysid light and temperature preferences have an ontogenetic component. Juvenile mysids most strongly preferred 11 °C, which is 5 °C higher than those most preferred by adults, but both size classes completely avoided temperatures of 16 °C and greater. Juveniles and adults preferred light levels between 10⁻⁵ and 10⁻⁶ lx, or ~ 10⁻⁷ and 10⁻⁸ “mylux” — a unit of brightness specific for mysid vision; however, juveniles did not display avoidance behaviors until 10^−0.6 mylux (~ 44 lx), compared to adults which avoid light levels of 10⁻³ mylux, or ~ 0.1 lx, and above. Because the differences in preferences between juveniles and adults were more pronounced in relation to temperature than to light, we expect stronger vertical separation of mysid size classes during periods of the year when the water column is thermally stratified versus isothermal. We present limited field data and review past literature to support this hypothesis, as juvenile mysids are typically found higher in the water column than adults, especially during periods of the year when the water column is thermally stratified. This study is one of the first to demonstrate that ontogenetic differences in light and temperature preferences lead to habitat partitioning in a mysid species and highlights the often underreported importance of juvenile mysids to food web structure and function in open waters above the thermocline.     

A high resolution study of spatial and temporal variability of natural and anthropogenic compounds in offshore Lake Superior sediments

An 8 km² area representative of deep offshore basins in Lake Superior was surveyed with multi-beam sonar and a high-frequency seismic-reflection system to create a high-resolution bathymetric map of the lake floor morphology, which is dominated by ring-shaped depressions attributed to the dewatering of glacial-lacustrine clays. Ten multi-cores were recovered from the survey area. The cores were scanned for magnetic susceptibility (MS), dated by ²¹⁰Pb and analyzed for water content, total organic carbon (TOC) and nitrogen (TON), biogenic silica (BSi), and total (THg) and methyl (MeHg) mercury. MS profiles varied considerably, inferring substantial centennial-scale differences in sedimentation history among the core sites. Concentration profiles of the analyzed constituents displayed differences of about ± 15% TOC, ± 40% BSi, ± 50% THg and ± 50% MeHg. Total mercury and methylmercury concentrations were typical of past measurements, and the mean THg accumulation rate (12 μg/m² year) was similar in magnitude to that of atmospheric Hg deposition. Sediment mass accumulation rates (MAR) ranged among the cores between average values of about 50 g/m² year in the ring centers to as high as 180 g/m² year between rings. Temporal variation in MAR within cores varied considerably on a decadal scale as well. Sediment redistribution by bottom currents over the complex morphology of the Lake Superior basin is not uniform in space and time, and indicates that a single core from any given area in the lake may not reflect the true history of environmental conditions that extend even a few hundred meters beyond the core site.     

Quantification of internal phosphorus load in large,partially polymictic and mesotrophic Lake Simcoe,Ontario

Hypoxia and cyanobacteria still occur occasionally in large, mesotrophic Lake Simcoe, and total phosphorus (TP) concentration has remained relatively constant despite external nutrient load reduction. This may indicate a potential internal P source. Internal load as redox-dependent P release from bottom sediments is hard to determine in such a relatively shallow and mostly mixed lake. This study represents the first attempt to quantify internal P loading over many years for the three main sections of Lake Simcoe. Internal load was determined (a) as in situ estimate based on TP increases between July and October and (b) as gross estimate from the product of experimentally determined P release rates and hypoxic extent of sediment surfaces in space and time. Hypoxic extent was quantified (1) as the hypoxic factor determined from dissolved oxygen profiles below the level of 3.5 mg/L, and (2) as active sediment area release factor (AA) modeled from summer euphotic TP concentration, which is especially useful in the mixed sections. Annual internal load for the whole lake was determined as a near constant 62.2 metric tonnes/yr (86 mg/m²/yr) for 1980–2011 using the gross estimates of the AA approach and 88 t/yr before and 53 t/yr after external load abatement and zebra mussel invasion using in situ estimates. Means of in situ and AA-based estimates for 2000–2011 are in close agreement except for polymictic Cook's Bay. These estimates are 45 to 89% of external load, which suggests that internal loading is an important source of P in Lake Simcoe.     

Process control of the sand wave migration in Beibu Gulf of the South China Sea

Based on the environment characteristics of the Beibu Gulf of South China Sea, a quasi-three-dimensional physical model is built.By coupling the bottom boundary layer with the two-dimensional tidal current field near the seabed surface, the quasi-three-dimensional hydrodynamic numerical simulation is carried out.The sand wave migration process is dealt with by coupling the hydrodynamic model with the sediment transport model.The computational results are shown to be in good agreement with the observed data,...     

A NEW MEASURE FOR DIRECT MEASUREMENT OF THE BED SHEAR STRESS OF WAVE BOUNDARY LAYER IN WAVE FLUME

In this article, a shear plate was mounted on the bottom in a wave flume and direct measurements of the smooth and rough bed shear stress under regular and irregular waves were conducted with the horizontal force exerted on the shear plates by the bottom shear stress in the wave boundary layer. Under immobile bed condition, grains of sand were glued uniformly and tightly onto the shear plate, being prevented from motion with the fluid flow and generation of sand ripples. The distribution of the bottom mean shear stress varying with time was measured by examining the interaction between the shear plate and shear transducers. The relation between the force measured by the shear transducers and its voltage is a linear one. Simultaneous measurements of the bottom velocity were carried out by an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter (ADV), while the whole process was completely controlled by computers, bottom shear stress and velocity were synchronously measured. Based on the experimental results, it can be concluded that (1) the friction coefficient groews considerably with the increase of the Reynolds number, (2) the shear stress is a function varying with time and linearly proportional to the velocity. Compared with theoretical results and previous experimental data, it is shown that the experimental method is feasible and effective, A further study on the bed shear stress under regular or irregular waves can be carried out. And applicability to the laboratory studies on the initiation of sediments and the measurement of the shear stress after sediment imigration.     

2D numerical modelling of bed profile changes due to tsunami effects on near shore coasts: Kadikoy case study.

This study was aimed at the investigation of tsunami effects on the seabed profile as these may be important for coastal structures, like sea outfalls or breakwaters. Tsunamis are well known with huge wave heights and destructive effects on the coastal region. A 2D numerical model was set using the software, COSMOS to calculate the cross-shore sediment transport and to evaluate profile changes in the coastal seabed. The study area is Kadikoy region, a densely populated industrial coastal area in South East Istanbul. The model was run for different kinds of tsunami waves. Not only the bed profile changes, but also the wave heights, breaker depths, peak wave bottom orbital velocities, wave set-up and cross-shore sediment transport rates were determined. The results indicated that, at a water depth around 40-50 m, some tsunamis were found to have a wave height of order of 15 m, which became about 5 m at a depth of 10 m. The wave set up near the coast was about 1.5-2 m. The results also implied that tsunami waves, with their destructive nature, could lead to dramatic vertical changes of the seabed.     

Spatio-temporal variability of diatom assemblages in surface sediments of Lake Peipsi

The modern diatom assemblages in surface sediments of large and shallow Lake Peipsi sensu stricto (2611 km²; maximum depth 12.9 m) in north-eastern Europe (Estonia) were studied. Ordination techniques were used to identify physical environmental parameters (grain size of sediment, water depth and distance from the shore) that explain the distribution of diatoms in the lake. Diatom species distribution and concentration in surface sediment showed large variations (concentrations varied from 3.3 × 10⁶ to 149 × 10⁶ g⁻¹ dry weight). The texture of surface sediments and concentration of diatoms are highly correlated (p ≤ 0.05), thus suggesting that the relocation of cohesive particles (silt) due to wind and wave actions affects the spatial variations of diatoms in surface sediments. The diatom data set analysed in the 1970s, and samples taken in 2006 showed some perceptible changes in the composition and concentrations of the diatom assemblages over this time period. However, main dominant diatom taxa have not changed during more than 25 years.     

An experimental study on runup of two solitary waves on plane beaches

Experiments of the runup of two solitary waves on a plane beach are carried out in a wave flume. The two solitary waves with the same amplitude and the crest separating distances are generated by using an improved wave generation method. It is found that, with regard to the two solitary waves with same wave amplitude, the runup amplification of the second wave is less than that of the first wave if the relative crest separating distance is reduced to a certain threshold value. The rundown of the first solitary wave depresses the maximum runup of the second wave. If the leading solitary wave is of relatively smaller amplitude for the two solitary waves, the runup amplification is affected by the overtaking process of two solitary waves. It turns out that the runup amplification of the second wave is larger than that of the first wave if the similarity factor is approximately larger than 15, which means the larger wave overtakes the smaller one before the waves runup on a beach.     

THE FREQUENCY MODULATION OF SHORT WAVES BY NON-UNIFORM VELOCITY FIELDS

l.INTRODUCTlONScientistshavelongbeentryingtounderstandthemechanicsofocean,particularlythemotionofwaves,currentsandtides.Inthepastthemainreasonforthisscientificpursuithasbeenthesafetyofships.Recently,incoastalandoffshoreengineering,someurgenttaskshavebeenencountered:thedesignofoffshoreoilrigs,problemsofcoastalerosionandimpact,inshoreandoffshorepollutiontransportation,andsoon.Therecentdevelopmentinremotesensingtodetect,fromSyntheticApertureRadar(SAR),radarwavesBragg-scat-teredbythesea'sfr…     

振荡层流边界层运动的格子Boltzmann模拟

将波浪作用下的振荡边界层问题化为振动平板边界层问题，利用格子Boltzmann方法中不可压缩的模型模拟了线性波和椭圆余弦波作用下的层流边界层流速变化，并和理论解进行了比较。算例表明，不同波浪条件下的数值模拟结果和理论解吻合较好，仅在流速较小的相位时两者在近床面处有较大误差，误差的形成主要与边界条件的精度有关。     

Distribution of the Amphipod Diporeia in Lake Superior: The Ring of Fire

Diporeia, formerly the dominant benthic macroinvertebrate in the Great Lakes, remains a keystone species in Lake Superior. Little is known, however, about fine scale amphipod distributions, especially as influenced by the production, transport and transformation of energy resources. Here, we document the distribution and abundance of Diporeia along 19 transects around the lake's perimeter. Regions of elevated density, averaging 958 ± 408 Diporeia/m² (mean ± S.D.) were observed along all transects, typically within slope habitat (depth of 30–125 m). Waters shoreward (shelf habitat, < 30 m) and lakeward (profundal habitat, > 125 m) of these regions supported significantly lower densities, averaging 239 ± 178/m² and 106 ± 59/m², respectively. Amphipods within regions of elevated density, termed here the Ring of Fire, account for two-thirds of the lakewide population while occupying only one-quarter of the benthic habitat. The Ring of Fire, observed lakewide as a band averaging 14.2 ± 9.4 km in width, is characterized as a region of transitional sediment deposition with gentle slope, proximate to nearshore locations of elevated primary production. Within the Ring of Fire exceptionally high densities are found in the south central region, where the Keweenaw Current and slope bathymetries serve to funnel production from adjoining regions of high production. Density measurements for the 173 stations sampled here are used to estimate lakewide Diporeia standing stock (22.5–37.7 trillion individuals, 4.4–7.4 Gg dry weight, 2.1–3.5 Gg C), individual and biomass density (274–460/m², 0.05–0.09 g DW/m², 0.03–0.04 gC/m²) and areal (0.02–0.03 g C/m²/yr) and total (1.6–2.6 Gg C/yr) production.     

二维任意缓变深度水域上行波的解析解

本文在线性水坡的范围内，利用Ｆｏｕｒｉｅｒ变换和留数定理，对二维问题，给出了在缓变底部上行波的解析解，由于本文保留了深度导数的一阶项，因而不要求底部争化十分平缓。在其适用范围内，不需要作长波假定，且适用于各种不同地形。而从这一解析表达式出发，可以有效地建立变水深波的开路边条件，从而可以突破目前各类开路边条件原则上只适用于人为边界处及其外部区域为等水深或近于等水深的限制，这对变水深波的数值计算是十分