清代“大裁”旗袍与民国“新式”旗袍的结构分析

本文从结构上分析了清代"大裁"旗袍和民国"新式"旗袍的结构设计的方法,介绍了清代旗袍和民国旗袍的造型设计特点,同时通过对比找到清代旗袍与民国旗袍结构和造型设计的不同点,总结了民国旗袍相对于清代旗袍所做的改进。     

旗袍的继承与创新

本文以旗袍的流行趋势为切入点，分析了影响旗袍发展与演变的主要动因；对如何进行继承与创新旗袍国服，提出了加强面料的创新和旗袍结构造型设计创新及加强海外市场运作等措施。     

旗袍三个发展时期的结构断代考据

针对当代旗袍史学研究注重文献研究而缺乏实证考据的现状,采取文献与实物二重考证实物的研究方法、方式对旗袍结构断代进行考证, 以实物作为结论来源的基础,探索旗袍三个发展时期的结构变化。将北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏旗袍实物和民间重要收藏标本进行系统化测量与结构图复原所得结论,同20 世纪20 年代至70 年代旗袍结构相关文献进行比较研究。通过结构复原实验发现,旗袍在结构变革和改良的过程中材料与结构存在相互制衡的关系。通过实物与文献的复核整理,归纳出旗袍发展三个时期所对应结构的典型特征,这将成为旗袍结构断代的参考依据和对传统服饰史学研究的有效补充。     

现代旗袍造型的创新设计探究

文章对现代旗袍进行了定义和分类,提出了现代旗袍创新设计的原则,在遵循形式美法则的基础上,采用移用、分割、夸张等设计方法对现代旗袍的整体造型与局部结构进行了创新设计与分析,探讨了如何在保留传统旗袍精髓的基础上对现代旗袍进行突破与创新,如何运用现代创新设计方法设计出新颖、现代的旗袍样式等问题,为现代旗袍造型的创新设计提供可靠的参考和借鉴。     

海派旗袍的可持续性设计

海派旗袍是我国经久不衰的传统服饰，对海派旗袍的可持续性创新设计研究有重要意义。介绍了海派旗袍的定义和构成要素以及可持续性设计的概念和方法，提炼出适合可持续性设计在海派旗袍设计中的应用方法，并对其进行展望。     

以旗袍纸样为例的模块化设计方法

为解决目前服装纸样定制程序繁琐等问题,以旗袍为例在旗袍纸样设计中引入模块化设计的基本思想,提出包括模块划分、产品族信息与模块匹配规则的服装纸样模块化设计方法。利用纸样结构特点将旗袍纸样分为衣身、袖部与领部3类模块,在分类的基础上构建衣身模块与袖部模块的产品族结构,并分别得到衣身模块与袖部模块的通用件和匹配接口。基于旗袍纸样的结构特征,分析其袖部模块与衣身模块的匹配规则,建立了旗袍纸样模块外部接口处的数学模型,得到符合个性化定制要求的旗袍纸样。通过真人试穿的匹配实例验证旗袍纸样模块化设计的可行性,为服装大批量定制提供纸样设计方法与技术理论支持。     

旗袍的结构改良设计

旗袍是中国传统服饰文化中最绚烂的现象和形式之一,有中国国粹和女性国服之誉。旗袍不仅能突出东方女性形体之美,而且蕴含着丰富的文化内涵。随着时代的发展,服饰的审美趋向更加多元化,改良旗袍的出现,奠定了现代旗袍的结构基础,旗袍彻底脱离旧有形式,形成了完美成熟、华丽性感的造型。文章在对传统旗袍与改良旗袍进行对比分析的基础之上,从领部、肩袖部、开襟、开叉、下摆五个层面探究了旗袍结构改良设计,并阐述了旗袍结构改良设计的发展趋势。     

女装参数化智能打版系统的设计与实现

以东方女装的典型代表旗袍为例,采用参数化纸样设计方法,实现根据个体体型变化自动生成特定款式的女装纸样,通过参数的设定建立人体结构与旗袍纸样结构之间的数学关系,建立旗袍纸样的参数化数学模型,以Visual Basic语言为平台,编程开发女装参数化智能打版系统。     

文化式原型在旗袍教学中的应用研究

鉴于文化式原型更符合东方人体型且在服装结构教学中简单易懂,文中将文化式原型应用到旗袍结构设计中,使其更加方便快捷地解决旗袍合体问题,让学生更容易掌握旗袍的结构制图,从而继承及发扬旗袍这一传统服饰文化。     

近代改良旗袍造型中的西方元素

本文以上海纺织博物馆和江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏旗袍实物为研究对象,对近代改良旗袍的基本形制进行了论述,并将近代改良旗袍按造型形制与细部结构细分为“基本型”和“摩登型”。又通过对馆藏“摩登型”改良旗袍的基本形制、结构造型与细节设计的分析,指出近代改良旗袍是吸收西方外来服装造型方法的结果。具体是通过收省、分割、装袖等西式造型方法,实现了在外轮廓造型上由传统的“A”向“H”型再向西式的“X”型的转变。再通过采用了垫肩、拉链等西式服装辅料,辅佐主体结构实现了由离体到紧体、由平面到曲面的转变,说明了近代改良旗袍是中西方服饰文化不断的碰撞与融合的产物。     

国内外大豆加工业生产现状与发展趋势

结合工作与生产实际，在查阅和调研了国内外大豆加工业相关资料和项目之后，对生产现状进行了简要表述，对发展趋势进行了粗浅分析。明确指出：国外大豆加工业的发展趋势是原料生产与产品研发同步进行，努力抢占国内外市场，开发传统品牌产品，加强宣传工作力度，瞄准“三高”产品，增加社会经济效益，组建发挥社会团体作用，推动大豆产业发展。国内发展趋势是注重快餐型大豆食品生产，适应消费人群生活特点，注重大豆蛋白功能性的研发，满足国内市场需要，注重油脂加工业合理布局，扩大相关产业向前发展，以此发挥优势和强项，打造具有中国特色的与世界同步发展的大豆加工产业。     

储藏期与储藏压力对稻谷籽粒压缩特性的影响研究

利用质构仪压缩稻谷籽粒的短轴来测定稻谷籽粒的压缩特性。测定的稻谷储藏在不同的时间与压力下。实验结果表明:当储藏时间为60 d且储藏压力由0 kPa增加到300 kPa,稻谷籽粒的破坏力由81.6 N减小到73.8 N,破坏能由8.10 mJ减小到6.27 mJ,破坏应变由0.139减小到0.117,表观接触弹性模量由171.3 MPa减小到57.7 MPa,最大接触应力由40.8 MPa减小到19.1 MPa。当稻谷储藏压力为77、100、139、200 kPa且储藏时间由0～60 d,稻谷籽粒的破坏力由81.6 N分别减小到79.6、79.1、78.2、77.0 N;破坏能由8.10 mJ分别减小到7.55、7.35、7.08、6.85 mJ;破坏应变由0.139分别减小到0.131、0.128、0.126、0.121;表观接触弹性模量由171.3 MPa分别减小到136.0、121.8、110.6、83.3 MPa;最大接触应力由41.2 MPa分别减小到35.0、32.5、30.3、15.0 MPa。结果表明储藏压力与储藏时间对稻谷籽粒的压缩特性有重要的影响。     

Application of the Internet of Things in the textile industry

Abstract

The ‘Internet of Things’ (IoT) is at times mythologized and its purpose mistaken, and often people can become confused about what it means, does or aims to achieve; moreover, without a financial appraisal of the differences IoT can make to their own enterprise, business leaders may be content to watch and wait rather than to take a lead. This issue of Textile Progress aims to provide a guide to help navigation beyond general statements about IoT and to help those involved with the textile industry to make an informed decision about its potential value to them. The definitions of the Internet of Things (IoT) available in the literature, and those put forth by organizations working on IoT standards development, are reviewed along with its architecture, elements, standards and protocols to help provide an understanding of the concepts and goals of IoT. A broad overview of impediments challenging the progress of IoT, especially in relation to cybersecurity, is provided. This review also compares ongoing work in the application of IoT in the textile industry to that in other manufacturing sectors whilst focussing on the interpretation of IoT technologies and their potential application to the textile industry according to both technological and business perspectives. A specific case study for the spinning industry is conducted to help with evaluation of its IoT solutions and to help to address how other parts of the textile industry might benefit from its application. The case study includes evaluation of IoT solutions in the spinning industry spanning the period between ITMA 2011 to 2019, and takes information from interviews with industry executives to inform future directions of IoT in the spinning industry.     

Evolution in the surface modification of textiles: a review

The development of technical textiles allows the introduction of new, interesting and original multi-functionalities in textiles through development of the architecture of fibres, yarns and fabrics, their morphology and surface functionalization without altering their physico-chemical proprieties. This issue of Textile Progress reports different techniques used to impart new functionalities to the surfaces of textiles during the last decade. Following a short, context-setting historical introduction, the preparatory processes which need to be applied to textile matrices to make them clean and ready for functionalization are examined prior to a comprehensive review of techniques and research related to the development of functional textiles ranging from the more-traditional techniques through to more-recent developments. The challenge now is to bring new performance features to bear whilst maintaining environmental sustainability, chemical toxicological acceptability, high performance and cost effectiveness. In this context, the review reports on developments in the use of polymerization, nanotechnologies, plasma treatment, electrospinning, microencapsulation and sol gel techniques to impart novel properties to a textile surface such as water-repellent, flame-retardant and antibacterial properties.     

蜜蜡中气泡特征与品质的关系

蜜蜡是半透明-不透明的琥珀,其不透光性是由内部大量的微小气泡对入射光产生的反射和散射作用造成的。通过扫描电子显微镜观察和测量了蜜蜡样品中气泡的大小、分布、单位面积内的数量及面积,得到以下结论:(1)蜜蜡中的气泡与其自身携带的挥发成分有关,气泡呈浑圆状,较均匀分布在琥珀片层状结构中,气泡直径范围大致为100nm~15μm,每平方毫米(mm~2)上气泡数量通常为几百至几千个,而白蜜中可达数百万个;(2)蜜蜡中气泡密集程度与不透明度呈正相关关系,单位面积内气泡所占面积越大,蜜蜡越不透明;(3)蜜蜡质地的细腻程度与气泡大小呈反相关关系,气泡的直径越小,蜜蜡的质地越细腻。本研究对建立蜜蜡质地的定量评价体系有重要参考价值。     

抗运动性疲劳营养补剂的研制

在体育训练和比赛中,运动员不论是在力量、速度、耐力和灵巧等方面都体现了强度大、难度高的特点,精神紧张,体力大量消耗,机体的各个系统都会发生不同的变化和反应,运动时体内激素分泌增加,物质代谢加强,能源物质被大量消耗,酸性代谢产物积聚加快,导致机体内环境发生一系列的变动。特别是在大运动量训练和激烈的比赛中,疲劳是不可避免的。这时机体对营养素的需求量必然发生某些改变。为了适应大运动量和高强度的专业化训练,仅靠平衡膳食是无法满足专业训练所消耗的大量能源物质,必须使用功能性的运动营养补剂来帮助运动员提高耐久力以及恢复体力和运动能力,以帮助运动员承受更大的训练压力和适应更大的额外训练应激,此外,运动营养补剂还可以帮助运动员提高自身内源性物质的合成水平。     

大米蛋白与米渣蛋白对镉结合能力的对比研究

目的:比较大米蛋白和米渣蛋白对镉的结合能力,探究蛋白对镉的结合机理。方法:通过蛋白对镉的结合试验、镉的脱除试验,比较两种蛋白对镉的结合能力,并用粒径仪、圆二色光谱仪(CD)、红外光谱仪(FTIR)、扫描电子显微镜(SEM)、X射线光电子能谱分析仪(XPS)等仪器分析蛋白与镉的结合机理。通过掩蔽蛋白羧基、氧化巯基后再对镉结合的试验,验证蛋白的羧基及巯基对镉结合的重要性。结果:米渣蛋白对镉的最大结合量为12.08 mg/g,被结合的镉120 min后脱除率达到最大,大米蛋白对镉的最大结合量为8.85 mg/g,被结合的镉60 min后脱除率达到最大。掩蔽蛋白羧基后,两种蛋白对镉的结合量较羧基掩蔽前均下降18%;氧化巯基后,大米蛋白和米渣蛋白较巯基被氧化前对镉的结合量分别下降40%和50%。SEM观察出,蛋白结合镉后发生聚集现象。结论:与大米蛋白相比,米渣蛋白对镉的结合能力更强。此外,两种蛋白对镉的结合不仅是简单的物理吸附作用,蛋白中的巯基和羧基对镉的结合也具有重要作用。     

当代博物馆展陈设计表现形式的研究

为了能充分发挥博物馆的功能及满足人们对历史文化的需求,博物馆的展陈设计发挥着重要作用。同时,为了能适应世界经济的快速发展,也为了博物馆趋于可持续和完美化,当前还存在的一些问题必须解决,因此高科技的使用、多样化功能的使用、节能环保的利用等多元化元素逐渐的被引入到博物馆中。这是博物馆的需要,也是时代的需求。     

The influence of attachment to beef surfaces on the survival of cells of Salmonella enterica serovar Typhimurium DT104, at different a(w) values and at low storage temperatures

This study investigated the influence of attachment to beef surfaces on the survival, injury and death of stationary phase cells of Salmonella enterica serovar Typhimurium DT104, compared to cells free in solution. The effects on cells are considered at different a(w) values and low temperatures in relation to osmotic and cold temperature shock effects. Attachment of cells to meat surfaces prevented cell injury and death from hyperosmosis and low temperatures, compared to meat solutions. Storage of cells for 72h resulted in higher levels of cell death on cells attached to meat surfaces. The improved survival of cells in solutions was considered to be related to adaptation to osmotic stress as a result of exposure to a previous hyperosmotic shock and the ability of the cells to produce cold shock proteins. Pathogen cell growth at low temperatures is discussed in relation to the presence of low levels of NaCl. Finally the data is discussed in relation to pathogen survival on beef carcass surfaces during refrigeration.     

A PNA-array platform for the detection of hidden allergens in foodstuffs

A duplex PCR method was developed to simultaneously detect the presence of hazelnut and peanut in raw materials and commercial products. It was found to be able to specifically detect traces of the investigated products down to 50 pg of their target DNA.A PNA array device has been designed and implemented to be used in combination with the duplex PCR in order to investigate the presence of traces of potentially allergenic nuts in foodstuffs. A PNA probe for each target amplified by the duplex PCR was designed, synthesized and characterized. The PNA probes were then deposited on commercial slides in order to build a PNA array to be used for recognizing the PCR products; the concentration of the probes as function of the concentration of the target DNA, together with the specificity of the probes were investigated.The conditions optimized during the setting of the experiment were used to obtain the final version of the PNA array which was then used to test several commercially available foodstuffs claiming to contain or not to contain the targeted nuts.