头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅳ）——蛋白多肽类护发原料的研究现状

随着发用化妆品的发展，许多新的原料被开发和应用，蛋白多肽类的原料越来越多的被应用在多种发用化妆品中，例如洗发水、护发素、发膜等。在发用化妆品中加入某一些蛋白多肽类原料可以有效的提升头发的机械强度、柔顺度、疏水性等，因此对日常生活中的光老化和烫发时头发的还原以及染发时头发的漂白等化学损伤等具有修复效果。本文对蛋白多肽类护发原料的来源、提取方法、护发机理、护发效果、研究进展等方面进行了介绍，为蛋白多肽类护发原料的开发和研究提供一些参考。     

新诗芬 发芯能量配方系列

头发是由发芯、发纤维和发表构成，但染发的化学损伤，电吹风的热风，不正确的梳理方法对头发产生的拉力等刺激，可能会损伤头发的表面，使发芯蛋白质发生质变而导致空洞。 特点：新诗芬发芯能量配方系列洗发露和精华素，含有护发和发芯修复因子BOE和苹果酸，其高浓度配方渗透力更强。能有效修复发芯空洞，让你的秀发真正健康亮泽。参考价：洗发露750ml 42元 活力精华素1 50ml 22.40元 全国各大商场有售     

多效护发剂成份概述

头发的护理和保养,是人们日常生活中所日益关注的事情。由于烫发、染发、烈日曝晒及用电热整发等原因,导至毛发损伤,同时也破坏了毛发的多肽结构以及双硫键,致使毛发构造疏松,头发难以梳理成型。用肥皂或含有肥皂的洗发剂洗头后,头发会失去发质中的天然油分,且由于钙皂的附着会使头发暗淡无光泽;用洗发香波洗头时,发质中的填充物质(磷脂、氨基酸)会流失,且逐渐变成多孔状态,头发因此会失去自然的光泽、显得干燥、变得非常脆弱,同时也失去了固有的形态。为了提高头发的柔软性和梳理性,使遭受破坏的头毛得到修复和弥     

霍霍巴油在化妆品中的应用

介绍了霍霍巴油的发展历程,阐述了其在护肤品中对皮肤的保湿润滑功效。霍霍巴油具有低黏度、高渗透率、低皂化值和无卵磷脂等优点,同时也是一种很好的增溶剂,具有无与伦比的发膜可塑性,对头发有修复作用,用后头发光泽、柔顺。     

中药洗发香波的研制

配制中药洗发香波,并初步探讨其对烫后受损头发的修护效果。用电子显微镜观察其对烫后受损发质的修复作用。结果表明,中药提取液用量为15%时,洗发香波配伍性能和梳理性效果最好,具有改善头发梳理性能,有效修复头发的作用,各项指标均符合行业标准QB/T 1974—2004。     

秀发--美丽不可缺少的环节

女人一过三十,皮肤衰老就更加迅速;同时,断发、头发枯黄、掉发、脱发等现象也日益严重,脱发会严重影响到女人的容貌、年龄等外在形象.试想,一张精致美丽的面容却映衬在稀疏、毛燥的的头发下,怎能美丽和协调呢?……     

美发用品的创新

论述了洗发水、护发素以及头发定型剂等美发用品的市场发展现状,并对其市场状况进行了分析。随着消费者消费意识的增强与消费水平的提高,护发素、发油和发膜等护发型产品将有飞速增长,而且更多的是着眼于发质的保护和护理,不再是单纯的头发受损后的修复、防止头发分叉等。指出,未来洗发水产品的主要潮流是向中高档、功能性和成分天然化的方向发展。     

洗发水对头发的影响

研究了不同pH值溶液和洗发水及其稀释液对头发性能的影响。结果表明:头发在pH值为4～7时性能稳定,深层洁净、去屑、平衡油脂类的洗发水适用于油性发质的头发,焗油、滋润、养护类的洗发水宜用于干性发质头发,养护、滋润类的洗发水用于中性发质的头发效果较好。     

头发修护及其产品配方技术

现在随着时尚引领,人人都在追求个性化的服饰和外表,越来越多的人开始染发,漂白,烫发.另外,由于国内人们对头发清洁护理的频率增加以及美发的要求,电吹风的使用增加,导致头发受损的程度比原来严重,对头发的护理就有了更高的要求.例如:对于染发的人们来说能够长久保持所染的颜色和头发的光泽度,使染过的头发依然保持光滑,不毛糙的状态,避免由于紫外线照射和外界环境导致的头发干枯退色是人们所非常渴求的.所以,在市场上可以看到越来越多的发用修护产品.目前市场上比较流行的发用修护产品,传统的如护发素、发乳、发油、焗油、修护喷雾水,时下更新的产品还有具有一定护理定型效果的低粘度护发液、纯油基质发油,具有蜡状外观的定型修护产品.此外具有高度定型效果的可以产生"振铃效应"的发用修护定型产品,以其悦目的外观,良好的手感和独特护理修复作用,备受市场的青睐.     

一种源自皮肤护理灵感的发丝保湿技术

<正>干燥的头发需要护理和修复以恢复其保湿性和健康的外观,但头发的保湿作用是通过除了水含量之外的功效来感知的。Hydroviton^? Hair馨丝润可在头发纤维上发挥成膜性使其变得光滑,改善湿发和干发的可梳理性,提升头发柔软度,使毛鳞片的整体排列有序,并通过重新平衡静电荷来有效控制头发体积和毛糙。     

防头发老化及损伤的洗护发产品

对洗发水和护发素的市场现状进行了分析。介绍了一些防头发老化的新产品,并针对女性的生理特征来处理头发变稀和脱发现象,从而从根本上解决因年龄而出现的头发问题。头发的修复是头发护理品市场中的一个重要部分。介绍了一些能够帮助修复、恢复和保护头发的新产品。     

个人护理品中的创新原料

硅氧烷在个人护理用品领域中由于其多功能性成为化妆品的多用途原料。硅氧烷在乳液和膏霜中可作为皮肤保护剂,为皮肤提供保湿和防止皮肤老化。防晒产品在日常皮肤护理方面发挥着重要作用,能防止皮肤过早老化。在最新的防晒应用中,硅氧烷优异的防晒性能得到广泛应用。对硅氧烷对头发的保护以及护发性能优势进行了介绍。     

Humidity‐dependent bending recovery and relaxation of human hair

The time‐dependent bending recovery of human hair fibers was investigated for a variety of relative humidities and aging times. The data were analyzed on the basis of a viscoelastic filament/matrix model and the Denby‐equation, containing the parameter K as the ratio of the elastic bending rigidities of the matrix and the filaments and the Kohlrausch‐Williams‐Watts (KWW) function as relaxation function. The first stage of the analysis ascertained that the recovery curves shift with aging time on the time scale with the expected aging rate of μ ≈ 1. The second stage showed that the shape factor of the KWW function exhibits a mean value across the aging and humidity range of m = 0.28, which is close to the “universal” value of 1/3. On this basis, it was found that virtually no change occurs for the modulus ratio for low water contents up to about 10%, being constant at K₀= 6 .1, while linearly decreasing beyond this threshold. The reduced, characteristic relaxation time drops on the log‐time scale from logτ_r(0) = 0.47 for the dry fiber linearly with water content, covering about two thirds of a decade for 0–20% water content. With the pronounced humidity dependence of the parameters, hair shows what is termed hydro‐rheologically complex (HRC) in analogy to thermo‐rheologically complex behavior. Using the HRC approach, the dynamical mechanical performance of hair (1 Hz) was calculated for a range of water contents and aging times and found to be in good general agreement with experimental data. © 2009 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2009     

美发护发化妆品中的植物蛋白

综述了美发护发化妆品中植物蛋白的各种类型，并对植物蛋白对头发的调理作用机理进行了分析概括。来源于天然产物的植物蛋白及其衍生物对头发具有良好的亲和性、调理性和保湿能力，可广泛用于各种美发护发化妆品中。并提示随着蛋白质化学科学的发展，植物蛋白在美发护发化妆品中的应用会更广泛。     

Making sense of the hair zinc literature: where do we go from here?

The authors make a critical review on the hair zinc literature, discussing the main contributions in this field. Certain explanations, as well as some solutions aimed to put an end to the confusion which exists on this matter are suggested. As a first step, it is recommended that only endogenous zinc in hair be reliably measured. Therefore, the zinc metabolic status should be operationally defined in function of the zinc detected in hair. Each one of the variables should thus be identified, quantified and controlled. It must be added that these variables would have to include differences in zinc metabolism. Only then would it be possible to see the real baseline reference value of hair zinc. At present researchers should begin looking for a functional relation and not just a statistical significant association between hair zinc concentration and zinc metabolic status. At the same time, it would be necessary to ratify and prove findings of the great number of studies reported in the paper, through the replication of studies with experimental animals.     

Characterization of hair lipid images by argon sputter etching-scanning electron microscopy

Hair lipid images, as visualized by argon sputter etching-scanning electron microscopy (ASE-SEM), reveal convex structures with a stitch pattern (SP) at the cell membrane complex (CMC) in the transverse hair plane. Based on interindividual variation, different features of the convex SP were classified into Types 0 to 4 with the corresponding scores 0 to 4. Observations using hair fibers collected from 27 Japanese females revealed significant positive correlations between the scores and the levels of exogenous lipids, which suggests that exogenous lipids internalized at the CMC predominantly constitute the convex SP. Intraindividual variation with different levels of exogenous lipids among hair fibers derived from individual females may be relevant to the uneven physicochemical properties of hair fibers on the scalp. Observations of 380 hair fibers collected from Japanese (Mongoloid), German and American (Caucasoid) females aged 3 to 77 yr demonstrated similar age-related changes in the lipid images, which represent an increase and then a decrease in levels of exogenous lipids with increasing age. This suggests that age-related changes in exogenous lipids are attributable to alterations in sebum excreted during aging and that this elicits age-related changes in physical parameters, which affect human hair texture.     

复杂的化妆品成分

系统地介绍了一系列新型的化妆品成分,主要包括用于防皱抗衰老功能的纳米脂hGH、具有一定的黏性和保湿性的Dermosoft Octiol、能改善头发健康的Chitosan、具有消炎、皮肤修复和增加毛囊大小功能的SRCPs、能作为乳化剂、润肤剂和保湿剂的Natrulon OSF、能加快伤口愈合的基质金属蛋白酶以及能使肌肉放松皮肤变得光滑的Acmella oleracea等.     

射流凝固制备的天然橡胶性能的研究

利用射流凝固(NR-j)的方法制备天然橡胶,研究了天然橡胶的性能。分析结果可得:射流凝固天然橡胶的溶胶含量较低,杂质含量、灰分含量、氮含量和塑性初值比酸凝固天然橡胶的大,而挥发分和塑性保持率较小。在硫化性能上,射流凝固天然橡胶的硫化速率比酸凝固天然橡胶的速率稍大,硫化胶的强度也大于酸凝固天然橡胶的强度,但其老化后的强度保持率小于酸凝固天然橡胶。     

Hair as Forensic Evidence of Explosive Handling

Hair has the ability to assimilate a variety of chemical compounds. The analysis of hair for determining first‐hand exposure to illegal drugs is a popular forensic technique [1–6]. Molecules such as explosives can also become trapped in hair due to external exposure and detected at trace levels [7–12]. Hair analysis could prove a powerful, non‐invasive method for the detection of individual exposure to illicit explosives. Previous studies showed that in a sealed vessel with adequate headspace, military explosives such as PETN, TNT, and RDX were sorbed to human hair. These organic explosives persisted on hair even after the hair was washed with detergents or solvent [7, 8]. Such sorption was influenced by hair color, and the levels of contamination were on the order of micrograms per gram hair after thousands of hours of exposure. It was assumed that in the “real‐world” explosives would sorb to hair through the condensation of vapors or by the deposition of solid particulates. This study involved the sampling of hair from students and instructors attending field classes for handling explosives at Fort A. P. Hill, Fredericksburg, VA and Redstone Arsenal, AL. Hair was sampled using combs fitted with cheesecloth, and the cheesecloth was extracted and analyzed by GC‐ECD for PETN, TNT, and RDX. On average, 80% of the participants were contaminated with PETN, found in detonating cord, after daily field exercises. Average participant contamination with TNT and RDX in hair ranged from 30 to 50%.     

NBD-Cl与头发表面半胱氨酸残基的相互作用研究

在碱性条件下用巯基乙酸使头发表面角蛋白质胱氨酸转为半胱氨酸残基,再以荧光试剂NBD-Cl着色处理头发。采用荧光光谱法和衰减式全反射傅立叶红外光谱法研究头发表面半胱氨酸残基与NBD-Cl的相互作用。结果表明该相互作用受处理溶液介质pH的影响,随溶液pH2～5改变λem-max发生红移。介质pH3处理的发样NBD-Cl取代位点可能为半胱氨酸上巯基。介质pH3处理的发样表面衰减式全反射红外光谱结果出现硝基对称伸缩振动峰,进一步支持NBD-Cl与头发表面半胱氨酸发生特异性结合的结论。NBD-Cl浓度改变对NBD-Cl与头发表面基团(巯基或胺基)反应的选择性无影响。实验结果表明Cu2+、Pb2+、Fe3+减弱NBD-Cl与头发表面半胱氨酸残基的相互作用,Ni2+的存在基本无影响。