羊毛絮片防寒服缝纫工艺的参数优化设计

针对羊毛防寒服针眼处的钻毛现象,采用正交实验设计,参考 GB/T 12705-2009《织物防钻绒性实验方法》中织物防钻绒性实验方法,测试在不同的缝纫加工条件下,从织物面料和针眼钻出的羊毛量。利用 SPSS 软件对实验结果进行单因素统计量分析和方差分析,求得优化的缝纫工艺参数组合,同时探讨各缝纫条件对针眼钻毛量的影响。研究结果表明：对于羊毛防寒服,最优的缝纫工艺组合为选用9号圆头机针,缝纫线线密度为14.8tex×3,针迹密度为9针/3 cm;机针号与缝纫线线密度对针眼钻毛量的影响显著且程度相当,而针迹密度对针眼钻毛量影响较小。     

面料与针距密度对羊毛防寒服防钻毛性能的影响

针对长久以来普遍存在的影响羊毛防寒服保暖和美观性的钻毛现象,为了有效提升羊毛防寒服防钻毛性能,进行相关试验。试验过程参考GB/T 12705—2009《织物防钻绒性试验方法》中规定的织物防钻绒性试验方法与标准,并根据实际情况对试验参数进行调整,针对每种试样,制作了2个完全相同的试样袋分别投入左、右2个箱子中;同时在保证面料密度、针距密度以及填充量相同的条件下,对缝迹进行了黏封与不黏封的2种设计;在计数钻毛量时,分别计数了从面料和缝迹处针眼钻出的羊毛根数。对目前企业常用的羊毛防寒服面料和针距密度进行了相关试验,利用SPSS软件对试验数据进行分析与研究,得出面料及针距密度与羊毛防寒服钻毛量之间的关系。     

羊毛絮片在羊毛防寒服中的防钻毛性能研究

为了有效地提升羊毛防寒服的防钻毛性能,文章探讨了羊毛絮片对羊毛防寒服防钻毛性能的影响,参考GB/T 12705—2009《织物防钻绒性能测试方法》中规定的织物防钻绒性试验方法,在设定面料密度、针距密度等其他条件一致的情况下,分别对不同种类、不同面密度、不同加工方式的羊毛絮片进行了织物防钻毛性能试验。从试验数据出发,提出改善羊毛防寒服防钻毛性能的方案,并结合企业实际情况进行成衣制作,进行人体试穿试验,验证改良的效果。结果显示:改变羊毛絮片的加工方式是提高羊毛防寒服防钻毛性能的有效途径之一。     

羊毛防寒服防钻毛性测试方法研究

研究了羊毛防寒服钻毛机理和影响钻毛性的因素,包括羊毛质量、羊毛絮片质量、服装面料特性、服装缝迹等.采用织物缩水率机,对整件羊毛防寒服在洗涤方式、时间、一次试验中测试件数等测试条件下进行了实验研究.结合实际穿着需求,从钻毛根数,防钻毛性状况方面进行了评价方法的分析研究.实验结果表明:提出的测试和评价方法,能反映羊毛防寒服装的防钻毛性能,有助于羊毛防寒服防钻毛性能的控制和改善.     

羊毛防寒服防钻毛评价方法的研究

结合实际穿着需求,从钻毛根数、防钻毛性状况方面进行了评价方法的分析研究。试验结果表明：该方法能反映羊毛防寒服装的防钻毛性能,有效控制了羊毛防寒服防钻毛性能。     

织物防钻绒性能测试方法研究

织物防钻绒性能测试的方法是将织物制成一定大小的样品袋,充入规定的羽绒填充物,经模拟试验,计数钻出的羽丝、羽毛根数来评定织物防钻绒效果.通过对5种不同织物充入12种不同羽绒填充物的试验结果的分析,研究了织物防钻绒性能的测试方法.结果表明:对于同一织物,填充物含绒量越高,钻绒根数越多.     

熔喷非织造布包覆羊毛复合絮片的制备及其性能研究

羊毛纤维是公认的保暖性能优越的纤维之一,常被棉布包覆,以絮片的形式存在于羊毛被等保暖制品中。但此类羊毛制品在使用中极易钻毛,影响产品外观和性能。采用聚丙烯熔喷非织造布代替传统棉布,作为羊毛纤维的包覆材料,制得不同充毛量的羊毛絮片,并与传统棉布包覆的絮片进行性能比较,包括透气透湿性、保温性、防钻毛性等。测试结果表明,熔喷非织造布包覆的羊毛絮片与传统絮片相比,其透气性略有降低,透湿性相近,保温性与钻绒性均有很大幅度的改善。     

双层织造防钻绒织物服用性能探讨

测试了双层织造防钻绒织物的防钻绒性、耐洗涤性、透气率和透湿率,探讨织物的服用性能。结果表明:梭织双层织造防钻绒织物的防钻绒性、耐洗涤性、透气率和透湿率均符合相关标准规定。以针织/梭织双层织造防钻绒织物为基底的涂层/覆膜面料,有较好的防钻绒效果,但试样的透气和透湿性差,覆膜试样在洗涤过程中存在薄膜分层的问题。     

棉与木棉混纺防羽绒织物的性能研究

探讨影响棉/木棉混纺防羽绒织物的防钻绒性和手感的因素。采用棉/木棉混纺纱和纯棉纱以不同后整理方法试制了5种防羽绒织物,测试了各防羽绒织物的防钻绒性、弯曲性能和剪切性能,并分析了织物防钻绒性的影响因素及弯曲性能和剪切性能与织物手感间的关系。试验发现,14.6 tex棉/木棉混纺纱与11.7 tex纯棉经纱交织的防羽织物具有较好的防钻绒性,并且织物弯曲刚度低、手感柔软、布面细洁,隔离螨虫效果达90%以上,应用价值较高。认为:棉/木棉混纺织物的防钻绒性与木棉纤维的低线密度紧密相关。目前的防羽后整理工艺对提高织物防钻绒性能有限,从纤维原料和织物结构入手可以大幅度提高织物防钻绒性。     

变了！ 羽绒服防钻绒性能测试将采用新方法

正羽绒服作为一类特殊的服装,质量问题主要集中在填充的羽绒上。特别是羽绒服的防钻绒性,将直接影响消费者穿着的外观效果,因此备受各方关注。我国目前检测羽绒服的防钻绒性方法是:将被测织物制作成具有一定尺寸的试样袋,装一定质量的羽绒,再反复摩擦一定次数,最后以试样袋内套织物上钻出的羽绒、羽毛数量评价织物的防钻绒性能。这种测试方法很显然测试的仅是面料的防钻绒性,对于羽绒服装实际穿着时的防钻绒性难以做到整体评估。     

羽绒服防钻绒工艺的探讨

探讨羽绒服钻绒的原因,并优化羽绒服制作工艺以解决钻绒问题。研究了设计结构、面料、填充物、缝纫纱线、缝制用针以及缝制工艺等因素对防钻绒性能的影响。通过测试、实验,找到改善羽绒服钻绒的关键控制点,科学有效地达到更高的服用性能。     

针刺复合羊毛面料的设计及其性能

为开发新型复合针刺羊毛面料,选用涤纶基布和羊毛为原料,利用现代无纺针刺机针刺复合面料,探究羊毛与涤纶基布以不同排列方式针刺后的效果对比,制作不同主题风格的创新面料;设计制作了不同羊毛含量、羊毛与面料不同排列组合的试样;通过测试试样的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、顶破强力来分析针刺面料的性能,以及影响这些性能变化的原因,探究其应用价值。结果表明:经过针刺复合后面料的力学性能比涤纶基布降低,但随着羊毛含量的增加,其力学性能提高,伸长率降低;针刺复合后面料纵向力学性能优于横向;羊毛平铺在双层涤纶布上针刺后复合面料的力学性能优于夹在双层涤纶布中间,且其针刺后的手感、图案表现效果最佳。     

Influence of clothing design of characteristics of wool fabric北大核心

Influence of clothing design, fabric cutting and sewing of characteristics of wool fabric was studied in this paper by research the characteristics of wool fibers and fabrics. The studies showed that different temperament and spirit can be shown by different specifications of the fabric with different visual features and appearance characteristics which can affect the design of clothing styles, wave shapes, pattern, etc characteristics of appearance, and choices of suitable clothing technological parameters of comfort, cutting and sewing. It can be drawn conclusion that the characteristics of wool fibers, weaving technology, patterns, color collocation, and clothing technological parameters of comfort, cutting and sewing, etc should be considered to develop the wool fabric with excellent elegant and functionality.     

含甲壳素纤维的毛针织产品设计

介绍了甲壳素纤维的主要特性、目前贴身穿着的毛针织服装存在的主要问题及将甲壳素应用于不同毛纤维产品中的设计思路.重点介绍了针织产品的设计过程,包括原料组分及规格设计的原则、产品组织结构设计的依据和方法等,确定了织针的排列方式、上机三角配置图、织物编织图等,并对所设计针织物的形成原理作了说明.     

毛麻交织凉爽织物的设计与开发

采用羊毛与亚麻交织，开发出毛麻交织凉爽织物。并通过合理的工艺配置和后整理，使产品具有优良的服用性能和保健性能，为毛织物的轻薄化、凉爽化开辟了新途径。文中对此类产品的设计、生产及技术要点作了说明与分析。     

Protein and silver nitrate interaction during finer wool production: enhancing tensile properties along with synthesis of nano silver

The simultaneous in situ synthesis of silver nanoparticles and slenderizing of wool fibers was carried out in one single step process without using external reducing agent. The functional groups of wool fibers were responsible for the reduction of silver ions into silver nanoparticles, and the possible interactions between the synthesized nanoparticles and the protein chains of wool fibers have been thoroughly discussed. According to the hypothesized mechanism, which was further proved by UV–vis absorption spectra, there is also a possibility of cross-linking formation within wool protein chains through diazotion reaction with amine groups of wool fibers. Duration of the process at the applied temperature allowed enough time for complete growth of the silver nucleus inside the protein chains, creating more cross-linking within the protein chains of wool fibers. Findings suggest the potential of the proposed method in producing fine wool fibers with enhanced tensile strength and slight color change.     

Momentary measurement of force exerted on individual fork needles in random-velour needling

Random-velour needling can be regarded as a modified technique of conventional needling process. This modified technique results in the occurrence of fundamental changes in initial orientation of fibers within the preconsolidated fibrous assembly. As the consequence of these changes a dual fibrous structure comprising base and pile layer is created. It is evident that momentary analysis of forces exerted on fork needles is vitally important in the design of both needle and machine. In this research, momentary forces experienced by individual fork needles were precisely measured. A novel force measuring system enabling the momentary sensing of the forces was designed and developed. The results were analyzed by purposely written MATLAB-based software hereafter named as force analyzing software. Results showed that fork needle experiences various forces due to its vibration and inertia and also frictional resistances offered by preconsolidated fibrous assembly and brush conveyor during a complete needling cycle. Furthermore, fork needle is subjected to an additional force due to contact of fork needle with fibers of preconsolidated fibrous assembly during dwell of needle board at the bottom dead center. It is concluded that total force on the fork needle includes contact and noncontact components. Quantification of results showed that, noncontact forces are due to fork needle vibration and inertia. These comprise significant proportion of total force experienced by individual fork needles. Magnitudes of these forces are strongly dependent on stroke frequency of the needle board. It was found that contact component of the total force is dominated by preconsolidated fibrous assembly characteristics.     

Influence of Sheep Wool on Slope Greening

ABSTRACT

Positive influence of wool mixed with soil on slope stability and its greening were examined. Mixtures of poor quality wool as well as polyester and polypropylene fibers with soil were obtained. The mixture was used to cover meandrically arranged ropes installed on the slope. After several weeks, intense greening of the slope was observed. Grass cover grown from seeds sown on the slope was very diverse, depending on types of fibers used for soil reinforcements. In places covered with soil mixed with wool, intense and dark green grass tillers were observed. In order to determine influence of wool on intense grass growth, progress of wool biodegradation was studied. Additionally, the content of different forms of nitrogen in soil during slope exploitation was analyzed. Wool biodegradation was investigated during observations with electron scanning microscope. It was revealed that biological damage of wool was accelerated by mechanical damage of fibers, that took place during bale opening and mixing wool with soil. As a result of biodegradation of wool keratin organic nitrogen was released. Due to ammonification process, it was converted into ammonium and later, via nitrification, into nitrate form. Both forms were available for growing grass and promoted its quick development.