An innovative approach to the preparation of coloured and multifunctional silk material with the natural extracts from chestnut shell and black rice bran

In order to reutilise the byproducts of foods and crops to benefit the environment and economise on resources, the natural extracts from chestnut shell and black rice bran were applied in the simultaneous dyeing and multifunctionalisation of silk fabrics. In this work, the influence of pH value on dyeing properties was studied. The effects of the ratio of chestnut shell and black rice bran extracts and the application of mordants (aluminium potassium sulphate and ferrous sulphate) on the dyeing performance as well as anti-ultraviolet and antioxidant properties of treated silk were also discussed. The results showed that deep-coloured silk fabrics can be obtained when dyed with the two natural extracts as the pH value of the dyebath approached 3. The ratio of the two natural extracts and the use of the mordants have significant effects on colour depth, colour hue, colour fastness, and the functionalities of dyed silk fabrics. Combination dyeing and mordanting are able to enrich the colour hues of dyed fabrics. The washing, rubbing, and light fastness of the dyed fabrics after mordanting can be rated higher than grade 4. Moreover, the silk after combination dyeing has good UV protection performance (UPF > 30) and antioxidant activity. In addition, the functionalities of treated fabrics showed excellent washing fastness. This study reveals that chestnut shell and black rice bran extracts are suitable as natural colourants and multifunctional finishing agents for the preparation of coloured and multifunctional silk materials.     

Colour and fastness of natural dyes: revival of traditional dyeing techniques

Cotton and wool fabrics were dyed with nine natural dyes obtained by aqueous extraction of the original plants/insect in an attempt to reconstruct traditional textile dyeing recipes, to optimise the methodology at all stages, i.e. extraction, mordanting and dyeing, and to standardise it. Cochineal, madder, alkanna, henna, brazilwood, red sandalwood, safflower, indigo and logwood were used for the dyeings, which were carried out directly and after mordanting of the textile material. A variety of mordants, namely, aluminium potassium sulphate, potassium dichromate, copper sulphate, zinc chloride, iron(iii ) chloride, iron(ii ) sulphate and tin chloride, is anticipated to meet both early and recent requirements and options. The dyeings were evaluated through colour measurements and standard wash, light and rub fastness tests. Generally, the mordanting process known for many centuries and connected with the textile dyeing resulted in an improvement in dye absorption and fastness properties mainly for the cotton samples, as is concluded from the tests and measurement assessments.     

Application of rare earth as mordant for the dyeing of ramie fabrics with natural dyes

Selecting appropriate metallic compounds as mordants is essential for dyeing with natural dyes. This paper presents the application of rare earth compounds as mordant for the dyeing of ramie fabrics with four kinds of natural dyes. The influences of pre-mordanting, simultaneous mordanting, and post-mordanting on the dyeing effect were explored. The post-mordanting was proved to give rise to the highest dye uptake. The effects of dyeing conditions including dyeing temperature and time, dyeing bath pH and the concentration of rare earth on the dye uptake were investigated systematically. The fabrics dyed with natural dyes in presence of rare earth as mordant exhibited high color shade stability in the baths with pH varying from being acidic to neutral and alkaline. Employing rare earth as mordant apparently raised the color fastness to washing, rubbing and light of the ramie fabrics dyed with the natural extracts. In comparison with the commonly used metallic salts, using rare earth chlorides as mordants can greatly reduce the ionic concentration employed in natural dyeing. This study proved that rare earth would be a kind or promising environmentally friendly mordant in natural dyeing.     

Reactive dyeing of silk using commercial acid dyes based on a three‐component Mannich‐type reaction

Acid dyes are employed for commercially dyeing silk, which results in ionic bonds between the silk fibroin and the dye. This generally leads to low wet fastness properties for dyed silk fabrics. In this work, three commercial acid dyes with aromatic primary amine structures were selected to dye silk using a Mannich‐type reaction, resulting in improved wet fastness of dyed silk by forming covalent bonds between silk fibroin and dye. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing was applied to silk fabrics at both 30 and 90°C in trials. Dyeing at 90°C can shorten the dyeing time compared with dyeing at 30°C, even although dye exhaustion and relative fixation at 90°C were a little lower. The dyeing process was optimised when the dyeing temperature was 90°C, dyebath pH 4, dye‐to‐formaldehyde ratio 1:30 and holding dyeing time 60 minutes. The results showed that the dye exhaustion on silk fabrics for the three aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes exceeded 94% and their relative fixation was over 80%. Their washing and rubbing fastness reached grade 4 or higher. Hence, the colour fastness properties of dyed silk fabrics using the Mannich‐type reactive dyeing method is superior to the conventional acid dyeing method using the same aromatic primary amine‐containing acid dyes. The Mannich‐type reactive dyeing for silk fabrics at 90°C can be developed into a novel and rapid reactive dyeing method, promising an effective dyeing process with excellent colour fastness.     

Dyeing of silk fabric with phenazine from Pseudomonas species

Phenazines, namely oxychlororaphin and pyorubin, were extracted from Pseudomonas sp., purified and their dyeing potential as colorants for silk dyeing were examined. The effects of the process variables, such as phenazine concentration, pH, temperature, time, type of mordant, relative colour strength and fastness properties have been studied. The results showed that the optimum condition for dyeing was 90 °C at pH 3 and dyeing time 90 min for oxychlororaphin, and 70 °C at pH 3 and dyeing time 60 min for pyorubin. The K/S value of a pre‐mordanted silk fabric with oxychlororaphin was high when compared to that with the pyorubin. The antimicrobial activity of a dyed silk fabric was tested against Salomonella paratyphi, Escherichia coli and Shigella flexneri.     

Dyeing properties of Bombyx mori silks grafted with methyl methacrylate and methacrylamide

To improve their dyeing and colorfastness properties, degummed Bombyx mori silks were chemically modified by a grafting technique with either methyl methacrylate (MMA) monomer or methacrylamide (MAA) monomer. Both commercial synthetic dyes, that is, acid and basic dyes, and natural dyes extracted from turmeric, without and with potassium aluminum sulfate mordant, were used in this study. Percentage dye uptake increased with the presence of poly(methyl methacrylate) or polymethacrylamide in the silk fibroin structure regardless of the types of the dyestuffs. Furthermore, compared to the degummed silk, the colorfastness to washing of the MMA‐grafted and MAA‐grafted silks dyed with acid, basic, and curcumin dyestuffs were greatly improved. Colorfastness to both acid and basic perspirations with acid and basic dyestuffs was slightly improved, whereas perspiration fastness remained unchanged for curcumin dyeing without and with the presence of the mordant. Also, the low‐light resistances of the degummed and grafted silks dyed by curcumin dyestuff were notably improved by the MMA and MAA grafting technique. © 2006 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 100:1169–1175, 2006     

Polydopamine‐coated silk yarn for improving the light fastness of natural dyes

One of the problems occasionally associated with the use of natural dyes in the dyeing of silk is the susceptibility of the dyed yarn to fading in light. While a number of approaches have been used to address this problem, the use of polydopamine (PDA), a known agent with photo‐protective properties, has not been assessed previously. In this study, silk was pretreated with nano‐particulate PDA formed in situ by oxidation of a dopamine solution, then dyed with lac dye or annatto dye as model natural dyes. Photofading rates were significantly reduced in the case of annatto‐dyed, PDA‐coated silk relative to uncoated silk, while wash fastness was unaffected and remained only moderately good. In contrast, no significant change was seen in photofading rates with treated or untreated lac‐dyed silk, and wash fastness was also unaffected. The PDA did not adversely affect resultant colour values if the concentration of the dopamine precursor was kept low. When this was done, acceptable colours were obtained in the dyed silk. Further investigation is warranted of PDA as a photofading protectant and mordant with other natural dyes on silk and other fibres.     

玫瑰红色素对羊毛和蚕丝的媒染性能

以FeSO4和ZnSO4·7H2O为媒染剂,采用玫瑰红提取液对羊毛和蚕丝进行染色,探讨了媒染温度、时间、媒染剂用量、玫瑰红提取液用量对媒染性能的影响,以及染色织物的牢度。结果表明,媒染剂FeSO4和ZnSO4·7H2O用量为2g／L、提取液用量为10mL、羊毛和蚕丝织物均为2g时,染色织物具有较深的色泽和良好的色牢度。     

亚麻织物的天然染料栀子黄无媒染工艺研究

以水为溶剂提取栀子黄,并用该提取液对亚麻织物进行染色,通过实验确定了栀子黄提取和直接染色的最佳工艺.为了提高栀子黄对亚麻织物的上染率和染色牢度,选用了固色刺NMR-1进行处理,以取代传统的媒染工艺,并对影响固色效果的主要因素进行了探讨,获得了优化工艺.结果表明,在优化的工艺条件下,固色处理可以明显改善栀子黄对亚麻织物的染色性能,其效果优于媒染工艺.     

Evaluation of antimicrobial and dyeing properties of walnut (Juglans regia L.) green husk extract for cosmetics

Walnut green husk is one of the main waste products from walnut and could be used as a source of natural dyeing compounds such as juglone. The present study was conducted to evaluate the effective use of walnut green husk extract as a natural hair dye. Dyeing properties, fastness and antimicrobial behaviours of dyed hair and also a skin irritation test for natural hair dye on rat skin were examined. When the extract was mixed with ascorbic acid as a developer, ferrous sulphate as a mordant, and Aloe vera extract used as a secondary mordant and also a cosmetic ingredient, the reaction resulted in a dark‐brown colour on hair samples. The dyed hair exhibited appropriate colour strength having excellent morphology for a hair surface coated with dye molecules. In addition, the dyed hair possessed good resistance to washing and daylight fastness, without any irritant properties as shown in a rat model, although high concentrations of iron‐based mordant may be problematic for long‐term usage. This paper also suggests the use of natural mordants such as lactic and oxalic acids to avoid any probable risks. Walnut green husk extract was an appropriate natural hair dyeing agent in practice and showed maximum antimicrobial activity compared with semi‐synthetic and commercial hair dyes. The results demonstrated that walnut green husk can be used as an economical, valuable, eco‐friendly and safe source of dyeing and antimicrobial agents for cosmetic products.     

Dyeing properties of textiles by Turkish hazelnut (Corylus colurna): leaves,coat, shell and dice

Turkey has a great number of hazelnut trees that possess nutritious components. However, only the inside part of the hazelnut is used as a nutrient, while the rest of it is waste. This study suggests that the waste parts of the Turkish hazelnut could be used as a natural dye for dyeing textile fabrics. The dyeing properties of the leaves, coat, shell and dice of the hazelnut were studied on wool, cotton and viscose fabric by using three different mordants: copper sulphate, iron sulphate and aluminium sulphate. The selected dyed fibre sample surfaces were observed using a scanning electron microscope. The colour strength (K/S), light, washing, rubbing, and perspiration fastness levels of the dyed fabrics were investigated. The experimental natural dyeing results indicate that waste hazelnut‐based products can be used as a natural dye for textile coloration.     

Topping of naturally dyed wool fabrics with different natural dye sources

Wool fabrics can be dyed with synthetic dyes and even with natural dyes. To present a different aspect to the coloration of wool, the current study was focused on a topping process (ie, the dyeing of wool that was already dyed) with different natural dye sources. For this purpose, the fabrics that were already dyed with a natural dye source were once again dyed with two different natural dyes. In bottom dyeing (bottoming), fabrics were dyed with hops (Humulus lupulus L.) in the presence of different mordanting agents. Then the dyed, washed and dried samples were once again dyed (topping) with two different natural dye sources. For topping, powdered madder and acorn were tested in direct dyeing of wool samples. Finally, the colour changes were analysed with the use of a spectrophotometer. The study demonstrates that such a process (ie, bottoming with hops in the presence of different mordanting agents and then topping with madder or acorn) can be a way of obtaining different shades and colours with sufficient/good fastness values by natural dyeing.     

UV absorber aftertreatment to improve lightfastness of natural dyes on protein fibres

The effect of a UV absorber on the lightfastness of natural dyes has been investigated. Wool and silk fabrics, dyed with natural dyes with or without mordants, were aftertreated with two UV absorbers. This treatment improved the lightfastness of the mordant-dyed fabric without affecting its colour or shade. The extent of photofading was evaluated by measuring the colour difference, Δ E , of the dyed sample before and after a 20 h period of irradiation under a xenon arc lamp. The uptake of the UV absorber on wool was much higher than that on silk.     

A method for dyeing cotton fabric with anthocyanin dyes extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits

For the first time, the natural anthocyanin dyes (mainly consisting of cyanidine 3‐glycoside) extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits has been successfully used to dye cotton fabric, with a dyeing property performance good enough for potential commercial applications. In this study, succinic acid was firstly incorporated into cotton fabrics by esterification to the hydroxyl groups of cellulose, forming an anionic site for the dyes. The performance of the modified material was characterised by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and tensile strength. Results showed that the tensile strength of cotton fabrics was mostly retained after modification. The anthocyanin extracts from mulberry fruits were used to study the dyeability of the control and modified cotton fabrics. Red and deep purple (aubergine) are two main shades of cotton fabrics dyed with mulberry fruit extracts. Most importantly, aubergine shade is rare in cotton fabrics dyed with natural dyes. Modification with succinic acid clearly increased the colour strength of the dyed cotton fabric. The colour strength of dyed cotton fabric was improved from 2.7 to 5.3 in the case of dyeing without mordants, and from 3.2 to 6.9 in the case of dyeing with tin mordanting. Meanwhile, the colour fastness was improved by 0.5–2 grades with increasing succinic acid concentration in the finish solution. The colour fastness to perspiration, crocking, light, and washing of fabric dyed with simultaneous tin mordanting and modified with 30 g l^?1 of succinic acid was found to be acceptable, with a grey scale grade of at least 3. As for home laundering, neutral soapy solution was more acceptable than alkaline soapy solution.     

槐米染色棉织物工艺及其抗紫外性能研究

为实现槐米染料的工业化应用及提高棉织物的功能性,分析了使用壳聚糖、Al3+、Fe2+媒染剂预媒染色法对棉织物染色效果的影响,重点研究了铝预媒染方法染色温度、染色时间、pH值等工艺参数对染色棉织物K/S值的影响,并测试了槐米染色棉织物的抗紫外性能。结果表明:直接使用槐米染色的效果较差;壳聚糖媒染对上染效果影响不大,使用铝、铁媒染剂,可得到不同颜色的棉织物;铝媒染剂染色棉织物为鲜艳的黄色,为较好的媒染方法;铝预媒染染色方法染色优化条件为:温度为80℃,染色时间120分钟,染浴pH值为6.8;铝预媒染染色棉织物具有较好的抗紫外性能。     

Mordant dye application on cotton: optimisation and combination with natural dyes

It is well known that cotton fibres can be dyed through the formation of coordinate bonds involving cellulose chains, mordants such as alum, and natural dyes such as alizarin. Similarly, synthetic dyes known as mordant acid dyes can be used to dye wool fibres. Unlike mordant dyes on wool, the fastnesses of natural dyes on cotton are often low. Although concerns surrounding textile sustainability have sparked renewed interest in the use of natural dyes, extensive replacement of synthetic dyes with natural dyes is neither practical nor fundamentally possible. However, similarities in dyeing methods using mordant and natural dyes raise the possibility of using mordant dyes as alternatives to natural dyes in the dyeing of cotton. Further, the potential for combining suitable dyes from these two classes to expand the colour gamut currently available from natural dyes on cotton seem worthy of exploration. The results of this study indicate that shades comparable with those produced by natural dyes can be obtained on cotton using select mordant dyes following Fe²⁺ and Al³⁺ pretreatments. The best results were obtained using a two‐step/two‐bath process and dyes such as CI Mordant Blue 13 and CI Mordant Orange 6. In evaluations of mordant and natural dye combinations using the two mordant dyes logwood and Osage orange as prototypes, interesting fabric shades were obtained. However, the fastness properties of these dyes must be improved in order to produce commercially viable dyeings.     

Colorimetric and fastness studies and analysis by reversed‐phase high‐performance liquid chromatography with diode‐array detection of the dyeing of silk fabric with natural dye Helichrysum arenarium

In this study, silk fabric samples were dyed by various procedures using Helichrysum arenarium extracts. Alum, ferrous sulfate, stanium chloride, calcium nitrate, and potassium bitartrate were used as mordants. Reversed‐phase high‐performance liquid chromatography with diode‐array detection was utilised for identification of the dyes present in the dyed silk fabrics and the plant extracts. The extraction of dyes was carried out with a hydrochloric acid/methanol/water (2:1:1 v/v/v) mixture. The colour coordinates and K/S values, as well as wash, light, and rub fastness, were determined.     

The evaluation of procedures for dyeing silk with buckthorn and walloon oak on the basis of colour changes and fastness characteristics

In this study, silk fabric samples were dyed according to various procedures with buckthorn (Rhamnus petiolaris Boiss) and walloon oak (Quercus ithaburensis Decaisne) extracts. Reversed‐phase high‐performance liquid chromatography with diode‐array detection was utilised for the identification of dyes present in the dyed silk fabrics and the plant extracts. The extraction of dyes was carried out with a hydrochloric acid/methanol/water (2:1:1; v/v/v) mixture. The colour coordinates of the silk fabrics were measured, and the rubbing, wash and light fastness properties of the dyed silk materials were determined and are discussed.     

Dyeing and deodorizing properties of cotton,silk, wool fabrics dyed with Amur Corktree,Dryopteris crassirhizoma,Chrysanthemum boreale,Artemisia extracts

This study used four kinds of natural colorant solutions extracted from Amur Corktree, Dryopteris crassirhizoma, Chrysanthemum boreale, Artemisia using water at 90°C for 90 min with a liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) of 1/10. The dyeing, color fastness, deodorizing properties of cotton, silk, wool fabrics dyed with natural colorant extracts were compared. These properties were found to be significantly dependent on the extract concentration, colorant structure, fabric type. Color fastness (light, water, perspiration fastness) ranged between second and fifth grades and deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colorant extracts between 34 and 99%. It is worth noting that the use of natural colorants notably enhanced the deodorizing performance. Wool fabrics showed the highest performance increase at 98–99%, followed by silk and cotton. © 2009 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2010     

合成纤维及其混纺纤维用染料的研究 Ⅰ.用于锦纶染色的含β-羟乙基砜硫酸酯基活性分散染料

本文综合了应用于锦纶染色的弱酸性染料酸性浴上色的高竭染率,活性染料与纤维的共价键结合,分散染料在纤维上迁移、匀染、盖染性好等优点,提出一类含β-羟乙基砜硫酸酯基的活性分散染料。用分子较小的分散染料结构,以含β-羟乙基砜硫酸酯为活性基;在弱酸性浴中染色,再在弱碱性浴中与聚酰胺纤维反应成共价键结合。 合成了一系列偶氮型和蒽醌型染料。进行了合成工艺、对锦纶的染色性能以及染色锦纶的牢度等试验。并讨论了染料与聚酰胺纤维的结合 这类染料可用于锦纶66和锦纶6丝纺、弹力锦纶丝和针织品,还可用于桑丝、柞丝及其与人造丝的提花织物。这类染料在锦纶上色泽鲜艳,竭染率较高,益染性优良,耐晒、耐湿处理等牢度较好,适于各种锦纶织物的染色。这类活性分散染料,具有酸性染料、活性染料和分散染料染锦纶的主要特点。