A route from olive oil production to natural dyeing: valorisation of prina (crude olive cake) as a novel dye source

An attempt has been made to valorise an agroindustrial solid waste in natural textile dyeing as a novel dye source. The dyeing and fastness properties of prina (crude olive cake/pomace) extract were evaluated to fill the gap in this field. This very cheap biomass was utilised (80 g/l) by applying chemical solvent‐free aqueous extraction to dye wool fabric with only small amounts (0.2, 0.4, 0.8, and 1.6 g/l) of metallic mordants, namely alum, iron(II) sulfate, copper(II) sulfate, stannous chloride, and potassium dichromate, and avoiding the use of alkali, acid, chemicals, and auxiliaries in dyeing and washing processes. Colour shades of beige, cream, sandy, apricot, straw, cumin, mustard, olive, and khaki were obtained. Significant differences in colour strength and CIELab coordinates were observed, depending on mordant type and mordanting method. Copper(II) sulfate and iron(II) sulfate ensured the most significant colour changes and nuances, the darkest colours, and the best light fastness values. Prina extract itself (without mordant) has a light fastness of 3 (fair) and excellent wash fastness of 4–5, both for colour change and bleeding. Irrespective of the concentration and mordanting method, alum, stannous chloride, and potassium dichromate did not generate a light fastness improvement compared with the control sample. Although good light and wash fastness values have been achieved without mordants, it is necessary to use them to widen the colour gamut and to obtain increased colour strength.     

An innovative approach to the preparation of coloured and multifunctional silk material with the natural extracts from chestnut shell and black rice bran

In order to reutilise the byproducts of foods and crops to benefit the environment and economise on resources, the natural extracts from chestnut shell and black rice bran were applied in the simultaneous dyeing and multifunctionalisation of silk fabrics. In this work, the influence of pH value on dyeing properties was studied. The effects of the ratio of chestnut shell and black rice bran extracts and the application of mordants (aluminium potassium sulphate and ferrous sulphate) on the dyeing performance as well as anti-ultraviolet and antioxidant properties of treated silk were also discussed. The results showed that deep-coloured silk fabrics can be obtained when dyed with the two natural extracts as the pH value of the dyebath approached 3. The ratio of the two natural extracts and the use of the mordants have significant effects on colour depth, colour hue, colour fastness, and the functionalities of dyed silk fabrics. Combination dyeing and mordanting are able to enrich the colour hues of dyed fabrics. The washing, rubbing, and light fastness of the dyed fabrics after mordanting can be rated higher than grade 4. Moreover, the silk after combination dyeing has good UV protection performance (UPF > 30) and antioxidant activity. In addition, the functionalities of treated fabrics showed excellent washing fastness. This study reveals that chestnut shell and black rice bran extracts are suitable as natural colourants and multifunctional finishing agents for the preparation of coloured and multifunctional silk materials.     

Extraction of polyphenolic dyes from henna,pomegranate rind,and Pterocarya fraxinifolia for nylon 6 dyeing

Acid and disperse dyes are two well‐known synthetic materials that are primarily used for dyeing of nylon 6 fibres. Despite their good performance, several negative impacts on the environment, including air and water pollution, are major concerns to researchers. An alternative ecofriendly approach to the dyeing of nylon 6 is the use of natural dyes, given their abundant natural sources, biocompatibility, biodegradability, non‐toxicity, non‐allergic responses, and non‐carcinogenic effects on human life. Based on these advantages, we extracted polyphenolic dyes from henna leaves, pomegranate rind, and Pterocarya fraxinifolia leaves and studied the dyeability on nylon 6 fabric using three compounds of aluminium sulfate, tannic acid, and tin chloride as toxic and non‐toxic mordants before dyeing. Fourier transform infrared spectra of the nylon 6 fabric confirmed the coordination complexes and π–π bonding between the mordants and the dyes. Colorimetric and fastness results showed that the mordants increased the colour strength and improved the fastness properties of the fibres. Our results suggest that tin chloride and aluminium sulfate as metal mordants can be successfully replaced with tannic acid as a biomordant in the natural dyeing of nylon 6. Also, cost assay showed that dyeing of nylon 6 with extracted natural dyes from waste leaves could be a sustainable and economical substitute for synthetic dyeing.     

Colour and fastness of natural dyes: revival of traditional dyeing techniques

Cotton and wool fabrics were dyed with nine natural dyes obtained by aqueous extraction of the original plants/insect in an attempt to reconstruct traditional textile dyeing recipes, to optimise the methodology at all stages, i.e. extraction, mordanting and dyeing, and to standardise it. Cochineal, madder, alkanna, henna, brazilwood, red sandalwood, safflower, indigo and logwood were used for the dyeings, which were carried out directly and after mordanting of the textile material. A variety of mordants, namely, aluminium potassium sulphate, potassium dichromate, copper sulphate, zinc chloride, iron(iii ) chloride, iron(ii ) sulphate and tin chloride, is anticipated to meet both early and recent requirements and options. The dyeings were evaluated through colour measurements and standard wash, light and rub fastness tests. Generally, the mordanting process known for many centuries and connected with the textile dyeing resulted in an improvement in dye absorption and fastness properties mainly for the cotton samples, as is concluded from the tests and measurement assessments.     

The effect of mordant salts on antibacterial activity of wool fabric dyed with pomegranate and walnut shell extracts

Natural dyes have attracted increasing worldwide attention because of the carcinogenicity and environmental effects of synthetic dyes. In this study, wool fabric was treated with tannin‐rich extracts of Punica granatum peel and walnut shell in combination with some mordants. The effect of various mordants on the colorimetric and antibacterial properties of wool fabrics was investigated. The results showed that pretreatment with metallic mordants substantially improved the dyeing and fastness properties of wool fabrics. The extracts of Punica granatum peel and walnut shell showed a significant antibacterial activity at 5% concentration. In addition, antibacterial activity was dramatically enhanced using metallic salts. The antibacterial activity of samples dyed with natural dyes and without any mordant was not good, while the mordanted samples with copper, aluminum and tin salts obtained considerable antimicrobial properties following lightening and washing fastness. The extracts of Punica granatum peel and walnut shell can be considered as viable alternatives instead of artificial antibacterial agents for hospital textiles as well as an effective anti‐odour agent for sports and household textiles.     

Metal mordanting in dyeing with natural colourants

Metal mordanting, or the application of metal salts, is a common method of improving the light fastness in dyeing with natural colourants. This review presents the results from a survey of the literature on metal mordanting to assess what levels of correlation exist between mordant‐induced effects (changes in colour and colour depth) and the changes in light fastness, what is known about the mechanisms of mordant‐induced improvements of light fastness, and how the salt levels used in coloration processes compare with the limits on metal levels in wastewater and on the dyed substrates. No strong interrelationships are found between the mordant‐induced effects and light fastness improvements. Knowledge about mechanisms of mordant effect on light fastness appears, in large part, to be derived from empirical correlations. However, as light fastness is affected by a multitude of factors, the correlations do not always hold true. It is found that residual metal contents in spent dye/mordanting liquors are generally not reported. However, with rough calculations, it is estimated that, with even the lowest reported salt concentrations, the metal contents in spent liquors exceed environmental release limits. The metal contents on dyed substrates are also not generally reported, but similar estimations show that the contents of heavy metal on dyed substrates (when copper and chromium salts are used as mordants) also exceed limits. On the basis of these observations, the authors make suggestions for elements to be included in investigations on furthering the use of natural colourants in textile dyeing.     

Application of rare earth as mordant for the dyeing of ramie fabrics with natural dyes

Selecting appropriate metallic compounds as mordants is essential for dyeing with natural dyes. This paper presents the application of rare earth compounds as mordant for the dyeing of ramie fabrics with four kinds of natural dyes. The influences of pre-mordanting, simultaneous mordanting, and post-mordanting on the dyeing effect were explored. The post-mordanting was proved to give rise to the highest dye uptake. The effects of dyeing conditions including dyeing temperature and time, dyeing bath pH and the concentration of rare earth on the dye uptake were investigated systematically. The fabrics dyed with natural dyes in presence of rare earth as mordant exhibited high color shade stability in the baths with pH varying from being acidic to neutral and alkaline. Employing rare earth as mordant apparently raised the color fastness to washing, rubbing and light of the ramie fabrics dyed with the natural extracts. In comparison with the commonly used metallic salts, using rare earth chlorides as mordants can greatly reduce the ionic concentration employed in natural dyeing. This study proved that rare earth would be a kind or promising environmentally friendly mordant in natural dyeing.     

A method for dyeing cotton fabric with anthocyanin dyes extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits

For the first time, the natural anthocyanin dyes (mainly consisting of cyanidine 3‐glycoside) extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits has been successfully used to dye cotton fabric, with a dyeing property performance good enough for potential commercial applications. In this study, succinic acid was firstly incorporated into cotton fabrics by esterification to the hydroxyl groups of cellulose, forming an anionic site for the dyes. The performance of the modified material was characterised by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and tensile strength. Results showed that the tensile strength of cotton fabrics was mostly retained after modification. The anthocyanin extracts from mulberry fruits were used to study the dyeability of the control and modified cotton fabrics. Red and deep purple (aubergine) are two main shades of cotton fabrics dyed with mulberry fruit extracts. Most importantly, aubergine shade is rare in cotton fabrics dyed with natural dyes. Modification with succinic acid clearly increased the colour strength of the dyed cotton fabric. The colour strength of dyed cotton fabric was improved from 2.7 to 5.3 in the case of dyeing without mordants, and from 3.2 to 6.9 in the case of dyeing with tin mordanting. Meanwhile, the colour fastness was improved by 0.5–2 grades with increasing succinic acid concentration in the finish solution. The colour fastness to perspiration, crocking, light, and washing of fabric dyed with simultaneous tin mordanting and modified with 30 g l^?1 of succinic acid was found to be acceptable, with a grey scale grade of at least 3. As for home laundering, neutral soapy solution was more acceptable than alkaline soapy solution.     

Isolation of colour components from flowers of Tabebuia argentea: kinetic and adsorption studies on silk yarn

The colour components from the flowers of Tabebuia argentea have been isolated and characterised as rutin and epigallocatechin gallate using spectral techniques. Adsorption kinetic and thermodynamic studies of these colour components on silk yarn have been investigated. It is noted that the adsorption is an endothermic process. The dyeing studies have been carried out at pH 4. The mordanting studies revealed that the post‐mordanting technique could only increase the dye performance marginally. The fastness properties of the dyed silk were determined. The adsorption isotherm studies showed that the Langmuir model fitted the experimental data very well with a high regression coefficient.     

Topping of naturally dyed wool fabrics with different natural dye sources

Wool fabrics can be dyed with synthetic dyes and even with natural dyes. To present a different aspect to the coloration of wool, the current study was focused on a topping process (ie, the dyeing of wool that was already dyed) with different natural dye sources. For this purpose, the fabrics that were already dyed with a natural dye source were once again dyed with two different natural dyes. In bottom dyeing (bottoming), fabrics were dyed with hops (Humulus lupulus L.) in the presence of different mordanting agents. Then the dyed, washed and dried samples were once again dyed (topping) with two different natural dye sources. For topping, powdered madder and acorn were tested in direct dyeing of wool samples. Finally, the colour changes were analysed with the use of a spectrophotometer. The study demonstrates that such a process (ie, bottoming with hops in the presence of different mordanting agents and then topping with madder or acorn) can be a way of obtaining different shades and colours with sufficient/good fastness values by natural dyeing.     

Pomegranate fallen leaves as a source of natural dye for mordant-free dyeing of wool

The application of metal mordants is usually necessary in dyeing of wool with natural dyes to improve the dye exhaustion and fastness properties. The majority of metal salts generally used as mordants are considered as toxic and it is important to find replacements for them. Plant sources with high content of tannins are good candidates as bio-mordant or colourant to overcome this drawback. In this study, the waste fallen leaves of pomegranate tree were used as a source of natural dye for the eco-friendly dyeing of wool fabric without the use of metal mordants. The dyeing process variables including dye concentration, dyebath pH, and temperature were optimised using response surface methodology to obtain the highest colour strength. The colour strength was increased by increasing the natural dye powder up to 100%owf while the optimum pH and dyebath temperature were 4 and 100°C, respectively. The sample dyed under the optimal condition exhibited good fastness properties against washing and light. This study approved the potential of Punica granatum fallen leaves for the dyeing of wool without any mordant, while high fastness properties were obtained.     

Dyeing properties of textiles by Turkish hazelnut (Corylus colurna): leaves,coat, shell and dice

Turkey has a great number of hazelnut trees that possess nutritious components. However, only the inside part of the hazelnut is used as a nutrient, while the rest of it is waste. This study suggests that the waste parts of the Turkish hazelnut could be used as a natural dye for dyeing textile fabrics. The dyeing properties of the leaves, coat, shell and dice of the hazelnut were studied on wool, cotton and viscose fabric by using three different mordants: copper sulphate, iron sulphate and aluminium sulphate. The selected dyed fibre sample surfaces were observed using a scanning electron microscope. The colour strength (K/S), light, washing, rubbing, and perspiration fastness levels of the dyed fabrics were investigated. The experimental natural dyeing results indicate that waste hazelnut‐based products can be used as a natural dye for textile coloration.     

Oxygen plasma pretreatment improves dyeing and antimicrobial properties of wool fabric dyed with natural extract from pomegranate peel

This paper presents the application of conventional potassium aluminium sulphate wool mordanting and a biochemical method with silver nitrate (as antimicrobial agent and mordant)_, alone and in combination with oxygen plasma, as part of comprehensive research into pretreatment processes for wool dyeing with natural extract from pomegranate peel (Punica granatum L.). Pretreatment with oxygen plasma significantly improved the hydrophilicity and tensile strength of all tested samples and showed that oxygen plasma can improve K/S, washing fastness, and even replace certain mordants in wool dyeing with natural pomegranate dye. All dyed samples exhibited good antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, which can be contributed to the phenol content in pomegranate dye. Only after 28 days of intensive ageing in natural weathering conditions did K/S and antibacterial activity against Klebsiella pneumoniae slightly decrease in dyed samples pretreated with oxygen plasma.     

Enhancing the wash fastness of disperse dyes on wool with oxidants

Disperse dyes are not currently applied to wool commercially, in large part because of inadequate wash fastness, but they do have potential, especially for wool‐polyester blends. In this study, for the first time hydrogen peroxide was investigated to increase the wash fastness of disperse dyes on wool. In the absence of oxidants, 10 disperse dyes from seven classes imparted colours with a range of depths (K/S 2‐26) with wash fastness (grey scale ratings for colour change) grades of 3 to 4‐5. Hydrogen peroxide had only small effects on colours and gave only small enhancements to wash fastness, which were limited to anthraquinone, nitrodiphenylamine, disazo and coumarin dyes. The bleach activators Prestogen W and citric acid enhanced the bleaching effect of hydrogen peroxide but did not assist with raising wash fastness. Hydrogen peroxide in post‐dyeing scouring made the dyeings brighter but did not significantly enhance wash fastness. Ammonium persulphate, which was included for benchmarking with earlier studies, yellowed the wool and decomposed some dyes. This study extends the range of dye classes whose wash fastness on wool can be improved by ammonium persulphate to now include diazo, coumarin and methine, and confirms that oxidants/free radical initiators have potential for enabling the disperse dyeing of wool.     

Evaluation of antimicrobial and dyeing properties of walnut (Juglans regia L.) green husk extract for cosmetics

Walnut green husk is one of the main waste products from walnut and could be used as a source of natural dyeing compounds such as juglone. The present study was conducted to evaluate the effective use of walnut green husk extract as a natural hair dye. Dyeing properties, fastness and antimicrobial behaviours of dyed hair and also a skin irritation test for natural hair dye on rat skin were examined. When the extract was mixed with ascorbic acid as a developer, ferrous sulphate as a mordant, and Aloe vera extract used as a secondary mordant and also a cosmetic ingredient, the reaction resulted in a dark‐brown colour on hair samples. The dyed hair exhibited appropriate colour strength having excellent morphology for a hair surface coated with dye molecules. In addition, the dyed hair possessed good resistance to washing and daylight fastness, without any irritant properties as shown in a rat model, although high concentrations of iron‐based mordant may be problematic for long‐term usage. This paper also suggests the use of natural mordants such as lactic and oxalic acids to avoid any probable risks. Walnut green husk extract was an appropriate natural hair dyeing agent in practice and showed maximum antimicrobial activity compared with semi‐synthetic and commercial hair dyes. The results demonstrated that walnut green husk can be used as an economical, valuable, eco‐friendly and safe source of dyeing and antimicrobial agents for cosmetic products.     

Eco‐friendly pretreatment of silk fabric for dyeing with Delonix regia extract

The flowers of Delonix regia have been evaluated for the natural dyeing of silk using a biomordant and enzymes. This is an eco‐friendly textile pretreatment that does not utilise metal mordanting. The aqueous extract obtained from the dried red flowers was used for the dyeing of silk fabrics. A bright reddish‐brown hue colour was observed when 30% owf Delonix extract was used on the pretreated silk material. The silk fabric was treated with either an enzyme or biomordant. The resulting dyed fabric showed resistance to fading. Finally, all dyed specimens were tested for wash and light fastness properties, making Delonix a viable alternative to synthetic red dyes. Through desorption studies, the order of reactivity of enzymes towards dye uptake in the one‐step process was found to be lipase > diasterase > protease–amylase = Pyrus(biomordant). For the two‐step process, the order of reactivity of enzymes was found to be protease–amylase > lipase > Pyrus (biomordant) > diasterase. Overall, it can be concluded that, treatments, the two‐step process was better in terms of larger colour yield values, fastness properties and both dye adherence ability.     

Optimisation of process parameters of Alpaca wool printing with Juglans regia natural dye

The aim of this research study was to optimise the process parameters of Alpaca wool hand‐knitted samples screen‐printing with Juglans regia natural dye and to set the optimal conditions regarding colour yield, colour fastness and colouristic properties of printed samples. An extensive preliminary examination of the Alpaca woollen yarn and hand‐knitted samples characteristics, the characteristics of suitable thickeners and the optimisation of the printing paste composition, was performed. A starch‐based thickener, British Gum, with a dry matter content of 4% was selected due to its rheological properties responding to properties of the Alpaca yarn and knitwear. It was determined that the fluidity increases while the viscosity and the elasticity decrease in acidic pH, so a pH of 4 was set for the thickener preparation. The thickener of lower viscosity and higher fluidity assures easier pressing of printing paste through the screen, giving uniform colour yield on the substrate, contributing to easier absorption of dyes into the fibre. A 45‐minute fixing process at 105°C by steaming delivered the best results of printing quality. Iron sulphate was used as the mordanting agent. The colour fastness to washing, dry and wet rubbing, and to light, was tested for samples with and without mordanting. The highest light and washing fastness were obtained with the iron sulphate mordanting agent printed in acid (pH 4) with paste containing 4% dry matter‐based thickener. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory for samples with iron sulphate printed with paste containing 4% dry matter thickener, fixed for 45 minutes, regardless of the pH.     

Dyes from the leaves of deciduous plants with a high tannin content for wool

The aqueous leaf extracts of five different deciduous plants, namely, silver oak, flame of the forest, tanner’s senna, wattle and serviceberry, were used on their own and in combination with aluminium sulphate, stannous chloride and ferrous sulphate to dye wool by a simultaneous mordanting technique. The washing and light fastness properties of the developed shades were moderate to good. Based on the CIE 2000 spectral colour coordinate values (K/S, ΔL, Δa, Δb and ΔE), the developed shades were classified into four groups: yellow/brown, yellow, orange and dark grey. The use of aluminium sulphate gave medium shades (K/S = 8.24), while the stannous chloride and ferrous sulphate mordants provided deep shades (K/S = 30.5). Statistical analyses have shown that only the type of mordant and not the dye source significantly influenced the development of colour on wool. Hence, it was theoretically possible to use five selected leaves as a single mixture to produce four different colours on wool.     

Clay nanoadsorbent as an environmentally friendly substitute for mordants in the natural dyeing of carpet piles

The aim of this work was to assess the possibility of using a bentonite‐type clay as a promising substitute for mordants in the natural dyeing of wool with madder. Wool yarn was treated with nanoclay by using three conventional methods of pretreatment (before dyeing), simultaneous dyeing with madder in the presence of clay, and aftertreatment (after dyeing). Madder was used as a natural source of colorant. The scientific methods employed in this study included Fourier Transform‐infrared spectroscopy, ultraviolet‐visible spectrophotometry, differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetric analysis, scanning electron microscopy, moisture regain measurement, tensile strength tests, reflectance spectrophotometry, and fastness evaluation. The intensity of the major peaks in the Fourier Transform‐infrared spectra of the nanoclay‐treated wool yarn indicated chemical changes in the polypeptide functional groups in the wool structure. Madder exhibited higher dyeing properties on clay‐pretreated samples compared with untreated wool. The results of colour measurements showed that the colour strength of the dyed samples improved with an increasing amount of clay in the pretreatment baths.     

Digital and conventional printing and dyeing with the natural dye annatto: optimisation and standardisation processes to meet future demands

The plant colorant annatto was investigated to determine its potential use as a natural dye for conventional and novel textile applications. Alum was selected as a mordant. Different techniques of mordanting and a broad set of variations in the dyeing recipes were applied to achieve optimisation and an improvement in colour fastness properties. Quality control of all dyeings was performed using standard fastness tests and colour measurements. Printing of cotton fabrics was also achieved with annatto using the flatbed screen‐printing technique. Measurement of the rheological and physical properties of the annatto printing paste confirmed its stability and suitability for conventional printing. Fastness properties of the conventionally printed annatto fabric were also measured. A novel water‐based digital printing ink using annatto was prepared and applied to cotton fabric using a digital printing application. The physical properties of the annatto ink‐jet ink were also measured. Wash, light and rub fastness properties of the annatto digitally printed fabric were determined and compared with those of conventional printing methods. The results were promising for annatto as a natural colorant, which possibly paves the way for the development of a new range of natural environmentally friendly dyes.