The Impact of In‐situ Fabric Surface Energy on Dehydration of Fabrics

Reducing liquid surface tension is widely used to increase the efficiency of the centrifugal dehydration in textile wet processing. However, increasing the dehydration efficiency by decreasing fabric surface energy is seldom studied. In this work, the impact of in situ fabric surface energy on residual moisture content (RMC) of fabrics in the dehydration processes was investigated. Different types of fluorocarbon surfactants including cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric were adopted as additives in this study. The liquid surface tension and RMC were efficiently decreased when fluorocarbon surfactants were used. Notably, a cationic fluorocarbon surfactant displays similar surface tension but distinct dehydration efficiency. The in situ fabric surface energy was evaluated by measuring the n‐octane contact angle on the cotton fabric surface under the surfactant solution using the captive bubble method. It was found that the cationic fluorocarbon surfactant system gave the lowest fabric surface energy, which was probably because cationic fluorocarbon surfactants are easier to adsorb onto the surface of cotton fabric to form a fluorocarbon layer. The chemical composition (¹⁹F, ¹²C and ¹⁶O) analysis of the cotton fabric surface by X‐ray photoelectron spectroscopy confirms the hypothesis.     

表面活性剂的混合乳化性质在退浆中的应用

将表面活性剂的混合乳化性质应用到棉线退浆中,讨论了表面活性剂复配比例、温度、pH值及处理时间等因素对退浆的影响。结果表明,表面活性剂退浆法最佳工艺条件为:十二烷基硫酸钠(SDS)30 g/L,AEO-9 5 g/L,十六烷基三甲基溴化铵(CTAB)30 g/L,OP乳化剂10 g/L,pH6.5~7.5,温度70~80℃,处理时间60 min,在此条件下,棉线失重率为14.2%,白度为80.6。     

Preparation and surface activity of biodegradable polymeric surfactants II: Dyeing properties of biodegradable dextrin derivatives in cotton dyeing

The biodegradability and dyeing properties of a series of dextrin‐derivative surfactants in direct‐dye cotton‐dyeing systems have been studied. It was found that these surfactants have good biodegradability, which is lacking in traditional dyeing auxiliaries. In dye‐surfactant systems, the degree of aggregation of direct dyes with surfactants was found to influence the rate of cotton dyeing. © 2007 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 104: 2620–2624, 2007     

硅氧烷低聚物的合成及其在泡沫染色中的应用

为了通过泡沫染色和光固化改善棉织物的染色性能，合成了一种含有不饱和双键的硅氧烷低聚物，设计了合适的含有聚合型黄色蒽醌染料、硅氧烷低聚物、光引发剂2,4,6-三甲基苯甲酰基-二苯基氧化膦（TPO）、表面活性剂十二烷基硫酸钠（SDS）的泡沫体系对棉织物进行泡沫染色。采用1HNMR和GPC分析了硅氧烷低聚物的化学结构和相对分子质量分布，采用FTIR表征了硅氧烷低聚物和染色棉织物的化学结构，采用SEM观察染色棉织物的表面形态。探讨了硅氧烷低聚物用量、染料用量、SDS质量浓度、TPO用量对泡沫性能和染色性能的影响，分析了硅氧烷低聚物的固色机理。结果表明，染料质量浓度30 g/L、硅氧烷低聚物用量为染料质量的2倍、SDS质量浓度2.0 g/L、TPO用量为染料质量的5%、紫外光照时间5 min时，染色织物染色深度可达5.70，耐皂洗色牢度和干/湿摩擦色牢度均为4～5级，水接触角为110.1°，紫外防护系数>50。硅氧烷低聚物通过侧基上的不饱和双键发生自由基聚合和硅醇基偶合交联实现固色，并赋予织物良好的疏水性能和抗紫外线性能。     

A quantitative study of factors that influence the substantivity of fragrance chemicals on laundered and dried fabrics

Model investigations of physicochemical aspects of the substantivity of fragrance raw materials on laundered fabrics were performed. The overall process was divided into two consecutive steps, laundry and dryout, which were characterized by affinity and tenacity, respectively. The affinities of fifteen fragrance raw materials to cotton and polyacrylonitrile were measured in standard fabric softener and detergent solutions. Affinities correlated with the corresponding partition coefficient, P(o/w). To study the impact of parameters independent of the chemical structure of the fragrance molecules, 1-[³H]-3-methyl-5-phenylpentanol (phenylhexanol) was selected, and aqueous solutions of defined anionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants were used as model detergent and fabric softener media. A sequence of experiments, based on the fractional factorial design, was planted for quantifying the relative contribution on substantivity of a number of variables: the concentration of the fragrance chemical, the type and concentration of the surfactants, the type and weight of the fabrics (cotton or polyacrylonitrile) and the washing temperature in the case of cotton. The affinity that characterizes the washing process depends mainly on the type of fabric and the type of surfactant and, to a lesser extent, on the surfactant concentration and the temperature. Anionic and nonionic surfactants, the main components of detergent powders, behave similarly, whereas the combination of cationic surfactant with cotton markedly enhances the affinity. For phenylhexanol, the tenacity after dryout is largely controlled by the type of fabric. The role of fiber swelling is discussed. The substantivity, which represents the global effect of laundering and dryout, shows the same trend as the affinity. The complexity of the physicochemical phenomena involved is highlighted by the importance of the interactions between the main contributing factors.     

Adsorption of aroma chemicals on cotton fabric from aqueous systems

The adsorption of aroma chemicals on cotton fabric was studied relative to the surfactant concentration, surfactant type, water solubility, and fiber morphology. The adsorption increased with increasing surfactant concentration to a maximum near the critical micelle concentration, then decreased with further increases in surfactant concentration. The adsorption also was found to be highly dependent on the fiber surface area and pore structure; dramatic differences were observed between untreated and mercerized cotton fabric and are believed to be due to morphological differences. Cationic and anionic surfactants increased the aroma chemical adsorption, which varied with surfactant type, with cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC)>sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS)>H₂O. Water solubility also influenced adsorption; in most cases, adsorption increased with water solubility. In addition, adsorption was also influenced by chemical structure and hydrophobic interactions. The adsorption of aroma chemicals on cotton fabric can be attributed to the aqueous solution being physically held in capillaries and pore structures within the fibular structure of cotton fiber and also to molecular interactions among the aroma chemical molecules, surfactants, and cotton substrate.     

Study of the Influence of Gemini Cationic Surfactants on the Dyeing and Fastness Properties of Polyester Fabrics Using Naphthalimide Dyes

In this paper, the dyeing and fastness properties of three monoazo naphthalimide dyes including different imide groups (dye 1: ethyl amine, dye 2: ethyl glycinate and dye 3: glycine) on a polyester fabric were investigated in the presence of two gemini cationic surfactants (symbolized as 12‐4‐12 or 14‐4‐14) and a conventional single chain surfactant, dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide (DTAB). The color strength (K/S) of naphthalimide dyes on polyester fabric was measured through the reflectance spectrophotometric method, and the values obtained in the presence of different cationic surfactants increased in the order of dye 3 < dye 2 < dye 1. Although the K/S values indicated that the gemini cationic surfactants had almost no effect on the dyeing behavior of dye 1, but they were effective in dyeing ability of dye 2 and dye 3. The data for dye 2 demonstrated that build up of polyester fabrics in the presence of gemini surfactants are more than the conventional cationic surfactant, and also K/S values of dye 3 on polyester fabrics were in the order: DTAB > 12‐4‐12 > 14‐4‐14. It was found that the washing and rubbing fastness properties improved with increasing the concentration of surfactants. In addition, the sublimation fastness of dye 3 was more than the other dyes owing to the presence of a polar group in its chemical structure, and the light fastness of naphthalimide dyes on polyester fabrics was generally moderate.     

槐米染色棉织物工艺及其抗紫外性能研究

为实现槐米染料的工业化应用及提高棉织物的功能性,分析了使用壳聚糖、Al3+、Fe2+媒染剂预媒染色法对棉织物染色效果的影响,重点研究了铝预媒染方法染色温度、染色时间、pH值等工艺参数对染色棉织物K/S值的影响,并测试了槐米染色棉织物的抗紫外性能。结果表明:直接使用槐米染色的效果较差;壳聚糖媒染对上染效果影响不大,使用铝、铁媒染剂,可得到不同颜色的棉织物;铝媒染剂染色棉织物为鲜艳的黄色,为较好的媒染方法;铝预媒染染色方法染色优化条件为:温度为80℃,染色时间120分钟,染浴pH值为6.8;铝预媒染染色棉织物具有较好的抗紫外性能。     

Nonionic surfactants and dispersants for biopolishing and stonewashing with Hypocrea jecorina cellulases

Cellulases are widely applied in textile finishing, such as for the removal of protruding surface fibrils to reduce pilling propensity and to achieve the worn‐out look in denim garments. The main drawback of enzymatic denim processing is the back‐staining of indigo, which reduces the desired blue–white contrast. Alongside an accurate selection of the type of cellulase or vigorous post‐washing of the garments, the simultaneous application of auxiliaries in the enzymatic treatment may help to reduce back‐staining and improve cellulase efficiency. In the present work, the influence of additives such as surfactants and dispersing agents on indigo adsorption and on the treatment of an undyed cotton fabric with Hypocrea jecorina cellulases was investigated. Indigo adsorption was successfully reduced by more than 75% with ethoxylated nonionic surfactants at concentrations below 0.2 g l^?1. The weight loss of cotton fabrics after 120 min treatment was significantly increased with nonionic surfactants and polyvinylpyrrolidone. It could be further shown that protein adsorption on the cotton fabric decreased with the increasing concentration of the additives, while the nonionic surfactants were more efficient than the polyvinylpyrrolidone. Adsorption of a complete cellulase mixture was affected differently by the surfactants than by an exoglucanase‐free endoglucanase‐rich preparation.     

Application of polycarboxylic acid sodium salt in the dyeing of cotton fabric with reactive dyes

In this study, the effects of polycarboxylic acid sodium salt on the dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes were evaluated by measuring and comparing the K/S values and dyeing fastnesses of the dyed cotton fabric samples. Results showed that the K/S value and dyeing fastness of cotton fabrics dyed with polycarboxylic acid sodium salt, substituting inorganic salts as exhausting agent were close to that of with sodium chloride when dip‐dyeing process was used. While, in pad‐dry dyeing, the K/S value of cotton fabric samples dyed with polyacid salts as exhausting agent was higher than that of with sodium sulfate, and the dyeing fastnesses of these samples were nearly the same. The dyeing mechanism of cotton fabric with reactive dye, using polycarboxylic acid sodium salt as exhausting agent was analyzed. The dyeing exhausting mechanism of reactive dye seems different when the inorganic salt and polycarboxylic acid sodium salt were used as exhausting agent in the dyeing of cotton fabric with reactive dye. The polycarboxylic acid sodium salt, as weak electrolyte, increased the dye‐uptake of reactive dye on cotton fabric not only by screening negative charges on cotton surface, but also by the effect of salting‐out or hydrophobic combination. © 2007 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 2007     

The study of imidazoles Gemini surfactants as retarders for the dyeing of cationic dyes on polyacrylonitrile fabrics

Alkyl imidazole cationic Gemini surfactants (AICGS) with various alkyl chain lengths were used as retarders for dyeing methylene blue (MB) on polyacrylonitrile (PAN) fabrics, with benzyldimethyldodecylammonium chloride (1227) surfactant as a comparison. The exhaustion (E%) of MB on PAN fabrics was investigated at varying surfactant concentrations and dyeing temperatures. Furthermore, kinetic studies on various retarders and 10‐4‐10 AICGS concentrations were carried out. It was found that the retarding dyeing effect of AICGS is stronger when compared with the 1227 surfactant. Moreover, as surfactant concentration increased or the dyeing temperature decreased, E% was reduced drastically. For kinetic studies, the dyeing rate constant increased with an increase in dyeing temperature and a decrease in 10‐4‐10 AICGS concentration, while half‐dyeing time was reversibly decreased.     

Adsorption and fixation behaviour of CI Reactive Red 195 on cotton woven fabric in a nonionic surfactant Triton X‐100 reverse micelle

To achieve the goals of saving water and being salt‐free in the coloration of cotton fabric with reactive dye, nonionic reverse micelles were prepared and optimised with a surfactant, Triton X‐100, n‐octanol and isooctane by injecting a small amount of CI Reactive Red 195 aqueous solution. The adsorption, diffusion and fixation of this dye on cotton fabric in Triton X‐100 reverse micelle and bulk water were then investigated. The equilibrium and kinetic data of the dye adsorption process were evaluated. The colour strength and fixation rate of cotton fabrics dyed in the micelle and in bulk water were also examined and compared. The results indicated that the amount of dye adsorbed increased with the increasing temperature and the initial dye concentration. The dye adsorption process could be described using the Langmuir isotherm and pseudo‐second‐order kinetic equations. It was found that CI Reactive Red 195 showed a stronger adsorption property on cotton fabric in Triton X‐100 reverse micelle than in bulk water without the addition of sodium chloride. Using Triton X‐100 reverse micelle as the dyeing medium offered the reactive dye better diffusion performance within the cotton fibre as compared with bulk water. Moreover, higher fixation of the dyes absorbed on the cotton fibre was achieved when the optimum concentration of sodium carbonate was used as the alkali agent in Triton X‐100 reverse micelle.     

Optimal dyeing systems for resistance to the physical strength loss of the PLA/cotton blended fabric

In this study, optimization of disperse/reactive dyeing systems for resistance to the physical strength loss of Poly(lactic acid) (PLA)/cotton blended fabric was investigated. The blended fabric underwent a two‐bath, two‐stage dyeing process in which the PLA component of the blended fabric was dyed using two disperse dyes, followed by the cotton component being dyed with six reactive dyes containing different reactive groups—dichlorotriazine, monochlorotriazine, sulphatoethylsulphone, monofluorotriazine, monochlorotriazine/sulphatoethylsulphone, and monofluorotriazine/sulphatoethylsulphone groups. The optimal dyeing systems were established according to the fixation rate of the dyes, tear/tensile strength loss, and SEM micrographs of the fabric. To avoid the strength loss during the disperse/reactive dyeing process, the recommended disperse dyeing conditions were 110°C, pH 5 for 20 min, whereas the reactive dyeing conditions should be temperature ≤60°C and alkali concentration ≤3 g/L. In this regard, reactive dyes containing monofluorotriazine and monofluorotriazine/sulphatoethylsulphone groups were especially suitable for the reactive dyeing systems. © 2010 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci, 2011     

Pretreatment of cotton fabrics with polyamino carboxylic acids for salt‐free dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes

In this study, polyamino carboxylic acids have been used to improve the dyeability of cotton in a salt‐free reactive dyeing process. These polyamino carboxylic acids were prepared by partial carboxylation of polyvinylamine. Cotton fabric was pretreated with polyamino carboxylic acids and dyed with reactive dyes. The colour strengths of the dyed fabrics were evaluated by measuring the K/S values. The fastness properties (washing, rubbing and light fastness) of the dyed cotton fabrics were also measured. The pretreatment of cotton with polyamino carboxylic acids creates positive charges on the fabric surface. In this way, salt‐free reactive dyeing of cotton or dyeing with only a small amount of electrolyte is possible.     

核桃青皮醇提物对棉织物染色性能的研究

为解决天然染料核桃青皮染色色调单一的问题,以颜色特征值和染色牢度为指标,通过单因素和正交实验优化了影响染色效果的温度、时间、pH值及核桃青皮色素染液的质量浓度等因素,比较了单金属盐的不同媒染方法和双金属盐复配对纯棉织物染色性能的影响。结果表明,核桃青皮色素染色的优化条件为：温度90oC、质量浓度71.40 g/L、染浴pH=4.0、时间140 min。核桃青皮提取液染色棉织物色谱的范围广,耐摩擦牢度好;耐皂洗牢度上单金属盐媒染是后媒＞前媒＞同浴＞直接染色,双金属盐复配及Fe3+、Fe2+、Cu2+、Al3+、Cr6+等单金属盐媒染的耐皂洗色牢度均能达到3级以上。X-射线衍射分析表明棉织物内部结构未受影响,Fe3+、Fe2+、Cr6+、Sr2+、Na+和K+等单金属盐和Fe2+/Cu2+、Fe2+/Ti4+、Cu2+/Ti4+、Cu2+/Sn2+、Al3+/Cr6+、Cr6+/Ti4+和Cr6+/Sn2+等双金属盐媒染后的棉织物紫外线防护能力增强。     

Mechanistic Studies of Particulate Soil Detergency: I. Hydrophobic Soil Removal

The mechanism of particulate soil detergency using aqueous surfactant systems is not well understood. In this research, carbon black (model hydrophobic soil) removal from a hydrophilic (cotton) and hydrophobic (polyester) fabric is studied using anionic, nonionic, and cationic surfactants. The zeta potential, solid/liquid spreading pressure, contact angle and surfactant adsorption of both soil and fabric are correlated to detergency over a range of surfactant concentrations and pH levels. Electrostatic repulsion between fabric and soil is generally found to be the dominant mechanism responsible for soil removal for all surfactants and fabrics. Steric effects due to surfactant adsorption are also important for nonionic surfactants for soil detachment and antiredeposition. Solid/liquid interfacial tension reduction due to surfactant adsorption also aids in detergency in cationic surfactant systems. Wettability is not seen as being an important factor and SEM photos show that entrapment of soil in the fabric weave is not significant; the particles are only attached to the fabric surface. Anionic surfactants perform best, then nonionic surfactants. Cationic surfactants exhibit poor detergency which is attributed to low surfactant rinseability.     

Influence of Nonionic Surfactant on Hydrolysis of Vinyl Sulfone Reactive Dye

Nonionic surfactants are widely used in reactive dyeing processes, and the interaction between surfactants and reactive dyes affect the hydrolytic property of reactive dyes. In this study, reactive brilliant blue KN‐R (C.I. reactive blue 19) was employed as a model dye, and fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether (AEO‐9) was selected as a model nonionic surfactant. The interaction was first investigated in aqueous solutions by a UV‐spectrophotometry method, then the effect of surfactant concentration on the hydrolytic behavior of KN‐R was studied using high performance liquid chromatography method. Below the critical micelle concentration, the surfactant served as dispersant; the hydrolysis of reactive dye was accelerated. However, when the concentration of surfactant was above its critical micelle concentration, the dye was solubilized into the micellar phase, which was revealed from the changes in absorbance intensity and wavelength of the maximum absorbance. This led to slowed hydrolysis of reactive dye. These findings are useful in understanding the effect of concentration of nonionic surfactant on the hydrolysis of vinyl sulfone reactive dyes.     

A method for dyeing cotton fabric with anthocyanin dyes extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits

For the first time, the natural anthocyanin dyes (mainly consisting of cyanidine 3‐glycoside) extracted from mulberry (Morus rubra) fruits has been successfully used to dye cotton fabric, with a dyeing property performance good enough for potential commercial applications. In this study, succinic acid was firstly incorporated into cotton fabrics by esterification to the hydroxyl groups of cellulose, forming an anionic site for the dyes. The performance of the modified material was characterised by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and tensile strength. Results showed that the tensile strength of cotton fabrics was mostly retained after modification. The anthocyanin extracts from mulberry fruits were used to study the dyeability of the control and modified cotton fabrics. Red and deep purple (aubergine) are two main shades of cotton fabrics dyed with mulberry fruit extracts. Most importantly, aubergine shade is rare in cotton fabrics dyed with natural dyes. Modification with succinic acid clearly increased the colour strength of the dyed cotton fabric. The colour strength of dyed cotton fabric was improved from 2.7 to 5.3 in the case of dyeing without mordants, and from 3.2 to 6.9 in the case of dyeing with tin mordanting. Meanwhile, the colour fastness was improved by 0.5–2 grades with increasing succinic acid concentration in the finish solution. The colour fastness to perspiration, crocking, light, and washing of fabric dyed with simultaneous tin mordanting and modified with 30 g l^?1 of succinic acid was found to be acceptable, with a grey scale grade of at least 3. As for home laundering, neutral soapy solution was more acceptable than alkaline soapy solution.     

Modelling the properties of one‐step pigment‐dyed and finished polyester/cotton fabrics using response surface methodology

Dyeing of polyester/cotton blended fabrics with two different classes of dyes for polyester and cotton is a lengthy and expensive procedure owing to different fibre contents that need different auxiliaries, pH, and temperature conditions. The aim of this study was to investigate and model the properties of a combined pigment dyeing and hand‐building finishing system for polyester/cotton blended fabrics. The one‐step process was investigated using response surface methodology, taking concentrations of pigment, softener, and hand‐building finish as experimental variables. It was found that increase in hand‐building finish helps to improve colour fastness at higher pigment concentrations but results in deterioration in fabric tear strength. However, the decrease in tear strength can be minimised by increasing the softener concentration. For a 15 g l^?1 pigment concentration, optimum fabric tear strength, crease recovery angle, bending length, and dry and wet rubbing fastness properties were obtained using 60 g l^?1 of softener and 65 g l^?1 of hand‐building finish. The prediction equations developed in this study can be used to determine the required amounts of softener and hand‐building finish to achieve commercially acceptable results at different pigment concentrations.     

The colour properties of polyester/cotton knitted fabrics coated with poly(N‐vinyl‐2‐pyrrolidone)

The objective of this research was to investigate the use of crosslinked poly(N‐vinyl‐2‐pyrrolidone) (PVP) to coat polyester/cotton knitted fabric, without adversely affecting its dyeing properties. Before dyeing, the knitted fabrics were tested for bursting strength to assess the influence of the coating on their resistance. The dyeing parameters were evaluated as the exhaustion (%), K/S value, colour difference (ΔE), relative strength (RS %) and colour fastness to washing. Bursting strengths were 9.4 for coated and 9.7 kgf cm^?2 for uncoated knitted fabric samples, confirming an insignificant loss in resistance. In the evaluation of K/S, ΔE and RS%, the values for the samples with the highest concentration of PVP were the most different to those for the standard sample. The colour fastness showed satisfactory results indicating that neutralisation and washing after dyeing were effective. These results could lead to increased quality in the textile industry, adding value to products.