Assessing colour values of polyester fabrics produced from fibres having different cross-sectional shapes after abrasion

This study assesses the colour, colour difference and colour strength values obtained for eight disperse-dyed polyester fabric samples produced from full and hollow round and trilobal fibres after four sets of abrasion cycle. Each fabric was produced from the same yarns in warp and weft directions. The L *, C *ΔE^*_ab and K/S values of the undyed fabrics and dyed fabrics before and after increasing cycles of abrasion are presented and discussed. Fabrics produced from full and hollow fibres showed great differences regarding colour values in abrasion behaviour. Fabrics produced from hollow fibres were found to be very sensitive to increasing abrasion cycles.     

Effect of reactive dyes upon the uptake and antibacterial action of poly(hexamethylene biguanide) on cotton. Part 1: Effect of bis(monochlorotriazinyl) dyes

Poly(hexamethylene biguanide) (PHMB) is of interest as a bactericide for fabrics. It has affinity for cotton by reaction with the cellulosic carboxylate groups. In this study, the capacity of undyed cotton to absorb PHMB has been determined and compared with cotton dyed with anionic bis(monochlorotriazinyl) reactive dyes. When cotton is dyed with these dyes the absorption of PHMB increases, the dye providing sulphonic acid sites with which the PHMB can react. The reacted PHMB and the percentage fixation of reactive dye were determined and from this the concentration of sulphonic acid on the dyed fibre. In the case of cotton dyed with Procion Yellow H-E4R, the dye increased the absorption of PHMB to approximately 1.45 mequiv. of biguanide per sulphonic acid group. For Procion Red H-E3B and Navy H-ER the figures were 1.18 and 1.00, respectively.     

Mechanical Properties and Stability to Light Exposure for Dyed Egyptian Cotton Fabrics with Natural and Synthetic Dyes

Synthetic dyes are more available than natural dyes were in the past, because of lower prices and wider ranges of bright shades with considerably improved color fastness properties. In current years, concern for the environment has created an increasing demand for natural dyes, which are friendlier to the environment than are synthetic dyes. The aim of this work is to study the effect of dyeing cotton fabrics with both a natural dye (henna) and a synthetic dye (Remazol blue) on some mechanical properties and those of stability to light exposure. The undyed and dyed cotton fabrics were tested for their mechanical behaviors expressed as tenacity (N), elongation %, and work-breaking (N · m). They were also tested for shrinkage and crease recovery angle. The stability to light before and after 100 h exposure was examined by investigating the microstructure [using x-ray diffraction (XRD)] and macrostructure [using a scanning electron microscope (SEM)] and the reflection spectra. The results proved that the cotton samples dyed with Henna dye have higher mechanical properties than those dyed with “Remazol” reactive dye. Moreover, the light fading behaviors of both synthetic and natural dyes were studied in terms of the reflection spectra (400–800 nm), microstructure, and macrostructure of the sample's fibers.     

Comparison of the effects of various presettings on the colour of polyamide 6.6 dyed with acid dyestuffs

Polymeric fibres are semicrystalline structures in which the macromolecules are rarely oriented in their equilibrium state. Further instabilities are imparted when the fibres are converted to yarns and the yarns to fabrics. Heat-setting is an important industrial process, as it reduces the fibre strain to an acceptable limit. This paper presents results of a study on the effects of various presettings (heat-, steam- and hot water-setting processes) on the dyeing properties of polyamide 6.6 fibres with acid dyestuffs. It was found that the colour yield is lower for dyed samples after dry heat-setting, but in the case of samples that have been hot water-set or steam-set, the colour yield increases slightly for light shades and remains constant for dark shades, compared with the unset dyed sample.     

Mordant dye application on cotton: optimisation and combination with natural dyes

It is well known that cotton fibres can be dyed through the formation of coordinate bonds involving cellulose chains, mordants such as alum, and natural dyes such as alizarin. Similarly, synthetic dyes known as mordant acid dyes can be used to dye wool fibres. Unlike mordant dyes on wool, the fastnesses of natural dyes on cotton are often low. Although concerns surrounding textile sustainability have sparked renewed interest in the use of natural dyes, extensive replacement of synthetic dyes with natural dyes is neither practical nor fundamentally possible. However, similarities in dyeing methods using mordant and natural dyes raise the possibility of using mordant dyes as alternatives to natural dyes in the dyeing of cotton. Further, the potential for combining suitable dyes from these two classes to expand the colour gamut currently available from natural dyes on cotton seem worthy of exploration. The results of this study indicate that shades comparable with those produced by natural dyes can be obtained on cotton using select mordant dyes following Fe²⁺ and Al³⁺ pretreatments. The best results were obtained using a two‐step/two‐bath process and dyes such as CI Mordant Blue 13 and CI Mordant Orange 6. In evaluations of mordant and natural dye combinations using the two mordant dyes logwood and Osage orange as prototypes, interesting fabric shades were obtained. However, the fastness properties of these dyes must be improved in order to produce commercially viable dyeings.     

Application of the nondestructive second derivative spectrophotometry to eliminate the effect of substrate in identification of madder used in Persian carpets

The handmade Persian carpet is famous worldwide not only for its elegant design and artistic structure, but also for its brilliant color harmony and incomparable raw materials. Various natural dyes accompanied by different mordants are used on various woolen yarns to obtain a wide range of unrepeatable shades for carpet. In this article, as a first step, the diversity of the undyed woolen yarns used in Persian carpets was statistically investigated by implementation of the Principle Component Analysis. Then the second derivative of Kubelka‐Munk function of samples dyed with madder was considered to reach a pattern for identifying madder. The results show that, although the spectral reflectance of different selected woolen yarns has at least 3 dimensions, all derivative curves are qualitatively very similar with the same minimum and maximum peaks at 510 and 605 nm, respectively. The findings are confirmed when various types of madder were used in the dyeing process. As a result, it is shown that the nondestructive derivative spectrophotometry is able to identify madder on alum mordanted woolen yarns used in Persian carpets and to eliminate the effect of substrate. It is a useful technique for preservation, conservation, and dissemination of the Persian carpet.     

Dyeing of natural fibres from perfluoro-polyether reverse micelles in supercritical carbon dioxide

The dyeing of natural fibres from a reverse-micellar system in supercritical carbon dioxide has been investigated using ammonium carboxylate perfluoropolyether as surfactant. Protein fibres such as silk and wool were satisfactorily dyed in deep shades with conventional acid dyes without special pretreatment. Exhaustion was excellent. It was however found that on these fibres the performance of acid dyes was strongly influenced by temperature and carbon dioxide density. Conventional reactive dyes in this system were adsorbed on cotton, even in the absence of dyeing auxiliaries, but the fixation of the dye was not satisfactory. Compared with supercritical dyeing methods reported previously, it was found in this study that the temperature and pressure required were significantly lower.     

含2,4-二羟基二苯甲酮基团活性染料的合成与应用研究

本文以苯甲酸为原料,经酰氯化生成苯甲酰氯,再与间苯二酚反应生成中间体2,4-二羟基二苯甲酮,产率79.4%。然后以2,4-二羟基二苯甲酮为封闭基,对位酯为重氮组分合成了黄、橙、红和蓝色4只新结构的活性染料,并用质谱对其结构进行了表征。用合成的染料对棉纤维染色,测定了染料的上染率和固色率,黄色染料染色性能较差。与未染色的棉纤维相比,染色后棉纤维的紫外线透过率大大降低。未染色纤维UPF值为1.3,经过黄、橙、红和蓝色染料染色的棉纤维的UPF值分别为6.1、16.1、16.0、18.5,除黄色外都达到了很好的抗紫外线效果。     

Camouflage of cotton fabrics in visible and NIR region using three selected vat dyes

To provide camouflage in near infrared (NIR) region and imitate reflectance profile of greenish leaves, cotton fabrics were dyed with three selected vat dyes, namely C.I. Vat Blue 6, C.I. Vat Yellow 2, and C.I. Vat Red 13. Reflectance curves of two types of fresh greenish leaves were measured as standard reference. Transmittance curve of vat dyes in acetone solution indicated that selected vat dyes have suitable structure to provide camouflage in NIR region. According to reflectance profiles, reflectance curve of Vat Blue 6 has more similarity with that of green leaf at the concentration of 0.85% owf (on weight of fiber) and 1.2% owf in comparison with those of C.I. Vat Yellow 2 and C.I. Vat Red 13. Cotton fabrics were dyed with different mixtures of the dyes to obtain a standard shade to reach camouflage in visible range. Chromatic values of dyed fabrics were measured (CIE1976 L*, a*, and b*) and two standard shades of the 1948 US army pattern, NATO and forest green, were obtained on cotton fabrics with ΔE_CMC < 2. Reflectance profiles of these two shades were located between the reflectance of green leaves. So, two vat dyes were introduced to camouflage dyes group, C.I. Vat Blue 6 and C.I. Vat Red 13, and used to achieve NATO green and forest green shades for first time. All dyed samples showed good fastness properties. The effect of washing and light exposure on camouflage properties of fabrics in visible and NIR region was inconsiderable. © 2012 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. Col Res Appl, 39, 200–207, 2014     

Investigation of the clean patterning possibilities on cotton socks through laser technology

The aim of this research is to reveal the effect of laser treatment at different resolutions (10, 20 and 30 dpi) and pixel times (80, 100 and 120 μs) on reactive dye uptake of cotton fabrics and the fastness values obtained. Yellowness index, Fourier Transform–infrared analysis, scanning electron microscopy analysis and bursting strength tests were applied to samples. The samples treated with laser were dyed in lighter shades than the untreated ones, with all three of the reactive dyes used in the experiments. In general, colour yield values decreased when the resolution and pixel time increased. However, no significant change was observed in washing, rubbing, light and perspiration fastness values. The possibilities of obtaining various patterns on cotton socks dyed with reactive dyes by laser treatment at different resolutions and pixel times were also investigated. According to the results, it was determined that if laser treatment was not applied to some parts of reactive dyed cotton socks, and 10 dpi 100 μs and 20 dpi 100 μs laser was applied to other parts of those socks, then it was possible to obtain patterns with different shades of the same colour on the socks. On the other hand, laser application after dyeing does not have a negative effect on fastness values. After determining the optimum conditions for the laser process, non-see-through tights were produced with cotton yarn on the front and polyester/elastane yarn on the back, and patterns were obtained by applying laser treatment before or after dyeing via sample scale industrial production.     

Determination of the Viscosity in Cadoxen Solvent of Cellulosic Materials Dyed with Reactive Dyes

A modified cadoxen solvent was used to determine the viscosity of reactive-dyed cellulosic materials. The conditions for completely dissolving cellulosic materials dyed with different types of reactive dyes were standardised. Reactive-dyed cotton materials showedno anomalous viscosity behaviour in the cadoxen solvent. With viscose rayon samples dyed with bifunctional reactive dyes, higher viscosity values were observed when measurements were carried out immediately after dissolution. However, on storing the solutions for a further 24 h, the viscosity values became independent of the type or the amount of dye andwere identical with those of undyed rayon. Thus, measurements of the viscosity of reactive-dyed materials can be conveniently carried out in cadoxen solvent.     

The role of natural dyes in the UV protection of fabrics made of vegetable fibres

The safest protection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is offered by textiles including various apparels, accessories such as hats and shade structures such as umbrellas. Their protectiveness depends on fabric composition, (natural, artificial or synthetic fibres), fabric construction (porosity, weight and thickness) and dyeing (natural or synthetic dyes, dye concentration, UV-absorbing properties, etc.). In this study the UV-protection properties were investigated on fabrics made of vegetable fibres (cotton, flax, hemp and ramie), with different construction parameters (drapery and apparel fabrics), dyed with some of the most common natural dyes. The effect of a tannins-based mordant (the galls of Quercus infectoria) on UV-protection capacity was also tested. UV radiation transmittance of fabrics was measured by two methods: one based on the utilisation of a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere (in vitro test), and the other based on outdoor measurements taken by a spectroradiometer. Transmittance measurements were used to calculate the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF).Our results revealed that thick and dense (cover factor, CF > 94%) drapery fabrics made of vegetable fibres usually showed good UV-protection levels even if undyed. The use of the tannins-based mordant increased, even without dyeing, the UV-protection level up to the very good and/or excellent protection categories when fabric construction was suitable. Dyeing did not further increase the protection level.Lighter fabrics, usually used for apparel, even showed high UV-protection level after just dyeing, provided that CF was above 94%.Taking into account the high concentrations of dyes used in the present work and the utilisation of mordants containing tannins, slight differences in UV-protection capacity were detected among natural dyes tested and between the two different methods of transmittance measurement. However, UV-protection category defined from outdoor measurements was often higher than that calculated by the in vitro test, indicating an underestimation of the actual protection level of tested fabrics assessed by the latter.     

The role of natural dyes in the UV protection of fabrics made of vegetable fibres

The safest protection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is offered by textiles including various apparels, accessories such as hats and shade structures such as umbrellas. Their protectiveness depends on fabric composition, (natural, artificial or synthetic fibres), fabric construction (porosity, weight and thickness) and dyeing (natural or synthetic dyes, dye concentration, UV-absorbing properties, etc.). In this study the UV-protection properties were investigated on fabrics made of vegetable fibres (cotton, flax, hemp and ramie), with different construction parameters (drapery and apparel fabrics), dyed with some of the most common natural dyes. The effect of a tannins-based mordant (the galls of Quercus infectoria) on UV-protection capacity was also tested. UV radiation transmittance of fabrics was measured by two methods: one based on the utilisation of a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere (in vitro test), and the other based on outdoor measurements taken by a spectroradiometer. Transmittance measurements were used to calculate the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF).Our results revealed that thick and dense (cover factor, CF > 94%) drapery fabrics made of vegetable fibres usually showed good UV-protection levels even if undyed. The use of the tannins-based mordant increased, even without dyeing, the UV-protection level up to the very good and/or excellent protection categories when fabric construction was suitable. Dyeing did not further increase the protection level.Lighter fabrics, usually used for apparel, even showed high UV-protection level after just dyeing, provided that CF was above 94%.Taking into account the high concentrations of dyes used in the present work and the utilisation of mordants containing tannins, slight differences in UV-protection capacity were detected among natural dyes tested and between the two different methods of transmittance measurement. However, UV-protection category defined from outdoor measurements was often higher than that calculated by the in vitro test, indicating an underestimation of the actual protection level of tested fabrics assessed by the latter.     

Photoinitiated surface grafting of synthetic fibers,IV. Applications of textile dyes onto surface-photografted synthetic fibers

High-strength polyethylene (HSPE), polypropylene (PP), poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET), and poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) textile yarns have been surface-photografted with various functional monomers, such as acrylic acid (AA), acrylamide (AM), glycidyl acrylate (GA) and 4-vinyl pyridine (VP), by means of the continuous presoaking process developed. The dyeing of these surface-modified yarns with various textile dyes has been investigated. In general, considerable improvements of dyeability have been observed. The dye adsorption of the surface-photografted fibers is influenced by many factors, such as type of fiber, amount and properties of the functional monomer grafted on the surface of the fibers, type of textile dye, etc. The fibers surface-grafted with a monomer containing basic groups, such as acrylamide and 4-vinyl pyridine, are efficiently dyed with an acid dye. Conversely, a fiber surface-grafted with acidic functional monomer is easily dyed to deep shades with basic dyes. The dye adsorption increases monotonically with increasing grafting measured in ESCA spectra as relative intensities of relevant lines. The ungrafted HSPE, PP and PET fibers can be dyed to some extent with certain dyes. In the present work, the dye adsorption increased by 3.4 times for HSPE fiber grafted with GA and dyed with the metal complex dye IO, by 7.9 times for PP fiber grafted with AA and dyed with the basic dye MB, by 6.1 times for PET with AM and with the direct dye SL, and by about 15.3 times for PVA with VP and with the acid dye TE.     

Comparative study of colour yield of cotton knitted fabric made by torque‐free ring‐spun yarns

Torque‐free ring spinning is a new spinning technology that has produced yarns with low twist and balanced torque. In this study, a commercially torque‐free ring‐spun yarn, namely Estex yarn, with three types of cotton fibre, i.e. Pima, upland and organic cotton, were used. Cotton fabric samples were knitted with Estex yarns and conventional ring‐spun yarns. The fabric samples were then dyed with two reactive dyes, Remazol Black B and Remazol Brilliant Blue R Spec., and the fabric dyeability was measured in terms of reflectance and colour yield. Finally, the results were analysed using the statistical software package SPSS and the results revealed that fabric samples manufactured by Estex yarns could achieve a better colour yield than conventional ring‐spun fabric samples. In addition, the Pima cotton gave the best colour yield, followed by upland cotton and organic cotton.     

Determining the dependence of colour values on yarn structure

The colour values of knitted cotton fabrics made from single and plied ring and compact yarns were investigated before and after dyeing. The fabric samples were knitted under the same constructional properties and then dyed with direct and reactive dyes. It was found that fabrics with ring yarns had high lightness and low chroma and colour strength values compared with fabrics with compact yarns. Also colour strength and colour difference values of dyed fabrics were assessed after increasing abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500 and 10 000). The main changes in colour strength values were observed at 2500 abrasion cycles. The effect of abrasion on colour difference values of fabrics having ring yarns was more obvious than fabrics having compact yarns.     

Studies involving reactive dyes containing a benzophenone ultraviolet absorber

Nine new fibre reactive dyes containing a built‐in hydroxybenzophenone moiety were synthesised, characterised using electrospray mass spectroscopic analysis, applied to cotton fabrics and the ultraviolet protection factor values of the dyed cotton fabrics determined. The results showed that the anti‐ultraviolet properties of cotton were improved by dyeing with dyes containing a built‐in hydroxybenzophenone moiety, but that the benzophenone ultraviolet absorber need not be covalently linked to dye molecules to provide significant benefit.     

Differential dyeing cotton. 1 – Preparation and evaluation of differential dyeing cotton yarn

Colourless cationic and anionic cellulose-reactive compounds have been prepared and applied to cotton yarns. Yarn pretreated with cationic reagents shows better uptake of acid and direct dyes than does untreated yarn, and since the degree of differential uptake depends on the level of pretreatment, which may be readily controlled, fabrics exhibiting a variety of tone-on-tone effects may be produced. Treatment with an anionic reagent gives cotton dyeable with basic dyes, and combinations of anionic- and cationic-treated yarns may be cross-dyed in a single-bath, one-step process with very little cross-staining. Pretreated cotton may be converted to viscose or cellulose triacetate fibre with retention of the modified dyeing properties, thus providing routes to differential dyeing viscose and triacetate fibres. We wish to thank the British Technology Group for financial support of this work for the period 1983–86, and Mrs F A Wood for technical assistance.     

Studies on Some New Reactive Disperse Dyes

The preparation of some new reactive disperse dyes which can be used for dyeing 100% synthetic and fibre blends is described. The preparation of some disperse dyes containing a chlorohydrin group is also described. This radical is the precursor of the epoxide reactive group in the active form of these dyes. Dyeings produced on various fibre blends by a two–stage high–temperature and by a carrier–dyeing technique are assessed. It was found that dyeings produced by the high–temperature technique were brighter, more level and possessed much better technical properties than those obtained using the carrier–dyeing method. The fastness properties of dyed samples were determined and found to be comparable with those of conventional disperse and reactive dyes. The colour yield was also determined in order to examine the possibility of obtaining deep dyeings on blended fibres, and to evaluate the potential commercial use of these dyes for dyeing blends as well as 100% synthetic–polymer fibres.     

Topping of naturally dyed wool fabrics with different natural dye sources

Wool fabrics can be dyed with synthetic dyes and even with natural dyes. To present a different aspect to the coloration of wool, the current study was focused on a topping process (ie, the dyeing of wool that was already dyed) with different natural dye sources. For this purpose, the fabrics that were already dyed with a natural dye source were once again dyed with two different natural dyes. In bottom dyeing (bottoming), fabrics were dyed with hops (Humulus lupulus L.) in the presence of different mordanting agents. Then the dyed, washed and dried samples were once again dyed (topping) with two different natural dye sources. For topping, powdered madder and acorn were tested in direct dyeing of wool samples. Finally, the colour changes were analysed with the use of a spectrophotometer. The study demonstrates that such a process (ie, bottoming with hops in the presence of different mordanting agents and then topping with madder or acorn) can be a way of obtaining different shades and colours with sufficient/good fastness values by natural dyeing.