高支全毛单经单纬产品的开发

探讨了利用水溶性聚乙稀酵(PVA)纤维所纺单纱与全毛单纱并合加捻成股纱形式进行织造，再通过后整理将PVA单纱溶掉，得到符合要求的全毛高支轻薄型单经单纬产品的工艺方法。     

五色纬纱多循环全毛花呢生产的探讨

五色纬纱多循环全毛花呢生产的探讨常州毛纺织厂　黄冠红一、引言我厂生产的全毛花呢２３３２３是由五色经纱和五色纬纱交织而成的，花型较为复杂的格子花呢。该品种经纬纱支数较低，捻度较少，单纱强力一般，织物组织采用２／２７斜纹，总经根数为３２００根，门幅１７６...     

羊毛/可溶性维纶包芯成膜纱技术研究

采用可溶性维纶(PVA)与毛单纱包芯伴纺技术，经摩擦纺将维纶以一定的比例包覆在毛单纱表面，在不提高毛纤维品质要求的情况下，可降低毛单纱的成纱特数，提高单纱强度，顺利通过单经单纬织造。     

全毛交捻线织物的工艺设计与试制

介绍了全毛交捻线织物的设计和生产过程，该产品采用新型纺纱方法，用羊毛纱与涤纶长丝交捻线作经纱，纬纱采用纯毛单纱，产品网络独特。为进一步开发乌圭羊毛资源，探索出一条新途径。     

树胶替代PVA的绢丝单纱浆料配置研究

为探索含树胶的绢丝单纱用浆料,采用1/166.7dtex绢纱,选用骨胶为主浆料,树胶、变性淀粉、PVA为辅料,配置主浆料加一种辅料和主浆料加两种辅料共五种浆料,单纱浆纱,测试计算纱线增强率和减伸率。结果表明:含树胶的骨胶浆料在增强和减伸效果上可以替代PVA;试验的浆料最优配置为骨胶60%、变性淀粉20%、树胶20%,含固量7%。     

CD-DF868浆料浆纱性能研究

为探讨CD-DF868浆料取代PVA浆料的可能性,以CD-DF868浆料、SFS浆料、PVA浆料为基础,配制了5种配方的浆液,并利用单纱浆纱机对14.5 tex纯棉纱进行上浆,测试了浆纱的强伸性、耐磨性和毛羽。结果显示,含有CDDF868浆料的浆液配方浆纱后增强率稍高于含有PVA浆料的增强率,而增磨率及毛羽降低率接近。结果表明,CDDF868浆料可部分取代PVA浆料,可为CD-DF868浆料的应用与推广提供研究基础。     

WPU浆料用于涤棉纱上浆的性能

测试了wPU水性聚氨酯浆料的浆液粘度热稳定性、浆膜吸湿性和上浆单纱的基本性能,并与市场上现有的一些浆料进行了对比分析。结果表明,WPU浆在95℃下粘度保持在12MPa·s左右;在75％相对湿度下,浆膜吸湿率为11．6％;在T65／C3513tex单纱浆纱性能上,与市场上含PVA的复配浆料的上浆效果相差不大。     

涤棉混纺纱不用PVA上浆工艺探讨

T／C 65／35混纺纱的传统上浆配方中，PVA浆料使用比例较高，为完全取代PVA，研制开发了新型聚丙烯酸酯浆料CT—A，并以CT—A和醋酸酯淀粉为主浆料，进行了单纱上浆、片纱上浆、纺织厂大面积试验与生产，并与传统配方相比较，结果表明，以CT—A与醋酸酯淀粉为主浆料，浆纱效果及织造效果均优于传统配方，可完全取代PVA，在对涤棉混纺品种上浆时可达到不用PVA的要求。     

CD-A6浆料替代PVA的上浆效果

探讨CD-A6替代PVA用于纯棉纱上浆的效果。以CD-A6替代PVA的百分比不同为变量,其他组分含量相同,制备了6种不同替代率的浆液,在单纱浆纱机上分别对纯棉29.5tex和18.5tex纱进行上浆,分别测试浆纱上浆率、断裂强力、毛羽和耐磨性。结果表明:CD-A6浆料替代PVA后,浆纱的上浆率达到了上浆要求,浆纱的断裂强力略有下降,但其强力值仍能满足织造条件要求;浆纱的减伸率明显降低,有害毛羽和耐磨性能得到较大的改善。认为:CD-A6替代PVA上浆,可以改善浆纱的减伸率、毛羽和耐磨性,在一定程度上完全可以替代PVA上浆。     

聚丙烯酸类浆料的纳米改性

 利用分散的纳米TiO2 溶液和多种丙烯酸类单体合成纳米改性聚丙烯酸类浆料———SX25PTiO2 。分别用SX25PTiO2 、SX25 以及PVA 浆料和淀粉组成一定规格的混合浆进行单纱及片纱上浆实验,从而进行浆纱性能对比.实验结果显示:用分散的纳米TiO2 溶液和多种丙烯酸类单体合成纳米改性聚丙烯酸类浆料是可行的;改性后的聚丙烯酸类浆料在贴伏浆纱毛羽,提高与纱线的黏附力和改善浆纱吸湿性等方面均比PVA 浆料和未改性聚丙烯酸类浆料有所改善,可以替代PVA 浆料     

新型缆型纺纱技术在生产实践中的应用

对新型缆型纺纱技术在产品开发和工艺研究方面的实践进行了初步探讨。缆型纺是在Sirospun的基础上发展起来的一种更成熟的纺纱技术，为生产单经单纬产品提供了又一新的途径。     

差别化纤维及花式线在精纺呢绒开发中的应用

通过对高性能、差别化、生物源纤维的原料研究,开发了羊毛与天丝、大豆蛋白复合纤维、竹、棉等混纺交织产品。系统阐述纱线支数、纺纱工艺条件、织物组织及规格,精心设计各道工序工艺参数和技术要点。产品试制结果证明:生产工艺能够满足产品品质要求,合理的混纺比可使产品手感滑糯,光泽明亮柔和,既有蚕丝般的光泽,又有羊绒般的手感,各种纤维的性能得以充分发挥和互补,大大提高了精纺毛织物的服用性能,提高了精纺呢绒面料的档次和附加值,多种差别化纤维及花式线应用于精纺毛织物的生产中是完全可行的,具有巨大的经济效益和社会效益。     

The dimensional and mechanical properties of wool/polyester fabrics made from vortex and ring-spun yarns

Fabric woven from wool/polyester (PES) Murata vortex spun (MVS) blend yarn is a commercially viable proposition particularly on the basis of advantageous wear-resistant properties, compared with fabric made from traditional worsted ring-spun yarn. However, in some early industrial trials with fabric made from 45/55-blend wool/PES MVS yarn, significantly greater relaxation shrinkage was found relative to comparable worsted ring-spun fabric. It was noted at the time that the amount of relaxation shrinkage in MVS fabric could be reduced to a large extent by using steamed MVS yarn.

In this study, the extent of variations in the dimensional and mechanical properties of fabric samples woven from a combination of steamed and unsteamed MVS yarn and equivalent worsted ring-spun yarn is examined. In general, greater hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage were found in loom-state fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarns, whereas the fabric made from steamed MVS and ring-spun yarns gave relatively low levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion. Permanent setting of fabrics, by pressure steaming, was found to be more effective than yarn pre-steaming in reducing relaxation shrinkage levels of fabrics made from unsteamed MVS yarn. After pressure steaming, all fabrics showed similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion.

Permanent setting of the fabrics, by pressure steaming, resulted in similar levels of relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, irrespective of the yarn production method; relaxation shrinkage fell to around 1% and hygral expansion increased by about 1%, relative to the loom-state samples. MVS fabrics were relatively heavier and fuller and had a firmer handle than the worsted ring-spun fabrics, reflecting the greater fabric weight, thickness and shear rigidity measured on these fabrics. These attributes are associated with different structures of the worsted ring-spun and MVS yarns used to make the fabrics.     

Analysis of bending properties of worsted wool yarns and fabrics based on quasi-three-point bending

Abstract

The bending behavior of worsted wool yarns and fabrics plays a crucial role in handling and performance of end-use textiles. Hence, the fabric/yarn bending properties were studied based on a quasi-three-point bending model by means of the theoretical modeling and the corresponding measuring method. By means of the formula and the measured curves, the curve of bending rigidity and the curvature of a fabric or a yarn can be calculated so as to characterize the bending behavior more precisely than in the previous work. All the experiments on the fabric/yarn bending rigidity have been conducted for both the worsted wool fabrics and the corresponding yarns procured from the fabrics, with the same apparatus bending evaluation system of fabric and yarn, which was developed independently. The measured results of bending rigidity and curvature curve show good correlation with the bending moment and the curvature relationship of the theoretical modeling, and the comparisons of bending rigidity among KES-FB2 (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics-2 pure bending tester), FAST-2 (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing-2 bending meter), and the independently developed apparatus show that the three systems exhibist reasonably high correlations. It is confirmed that the new apparatus and the theoretical model are both viable and precious. Meanwhile, the theoretical relationship between the yarns and the fabrics has also been discussed, and the theoretical analysis of the bending behavior between the yarns and the fabrics is helpful in selecting a better theoretical model of the fabric-to-yarn bending rigidity ratio.     

提高毛纱上浆效果的预处理方法

单经单纬毛织物正在兴起 ,它必须上浆 ,但毛纱难以润湿 ,上浆效果不好 .用热水或 pH =4 .5的醋酸溶液作预处理再上浆 ,可大大提高上浆效果 .     

毛/金属丝包芯纱交织花呢的设计与生产

介绍了毛/金属丝包芯纱交织织物在产品开发中的技术难点、工艺要点、产品特性及其织物性能测试.重点对产品在试制过程中出现的问题及采取的措施进行了阐述.产品充分发挥了金属丝包芯纱的特性,赋予了织物特殊的视觉效果与外观风格,不仅提高了产品档次,而且赋予了产品新的附加值,实物质量及服用性能良好.     

14.8 tex紧密纺精梳毛纱的生产实践

探讨紧密纺精梳毛纱生产工艺。通过选用澳产纯羊毛条原料,采用法国NSC公司的前纺设备、德国Zinser公司紧密纺细纱机等先进设备,针对有关设备技术特征,原料特点进行上车工艺试验,合理配置各工序上机工艺参数,充分运用先进设备的在线监控功能,加强各工序生产管理,最终成功开发出14.8 tex紧密纺精梳毛纱。与同线密度环锭纱精梳毛纱相比,主要质量指标均有显著提高,其中,伸长率提高18%,强力提高9.2%,毛羽改善20%。     

精纺高支轻薄面料综合性能分析

讨论了不同范围纱支的毛纱对轻薄毛纺面料产品风格、服用性能方面的影响,分析认为纱支过高对原料成本、生产成本、质量和管理成本会产生负面影响.为使原料资源得到合理的利用,同时满足消费者多元化及多样化的需求,提出了精梳毛纺织产品既要符合毛纺面料轻薄化发展趋势,纱线支数又应控制在合理的范围之内,同时提出了精梳毛纺产品应该向多样化发展的设想.     

毛纱上浆技术的发展及前景

８０年代初，随着精纺毛织品开始向轻薄型方向发展，对毛纱采取上浆、走单纱化道路的主张引起了人们的关注。经过毛精纺行业人士的不断研究摸索，发现常用棉型浆料不能在毛纱表面成膜，而目前应用极其普遍的辅助浆料却是一种极好的交联剂，可在毛纱表面形成有一定强度的浆膜。本文简要介绍了浆料配方和呢坯的退浆工艺，详细论述了整浆过程中的经纱排列方法。     

提高精纺羊绒纱产品质量的探讨

通过几年的生产实践,探索影响精纺羊绒纱产品质量的因素,详细分析了无毛绒原料的品质指标、工艺参数、设备状态、操作等对精纺羊绒纱产品质量的影响及提高产品质量的具体措施.同时总结出无毛绒原料各项品质指标与纱线线密度、质量指标之间的关系,及染色工艺参数、纺纱工艺参数的选择对精纺羊绒纱产品质量的影响趋势.生产实践证明,这些措施是可行的,而且取得了一定得成绩,精纺羊绒纱的产品质量在逐年提高.