洗水对牛仔面料性能的影响

采用常见普洗、酵洗、石磨洗等方法对退浆后的牛仔服装进行洗水处理,探讨了洗水前后牛仔面料的面积缩率、厚度、透气率等物理性能的变化,结果表明,各种洗水工艺均使织物的透气率下降,其中酵素洗对织物的透气率影响最大,石磨方法次之。     

牛仔成衣洗水生产探析

牛仔服装的洗水是牛仔服新风格形成的关键工序,水洗方法的选择和水洗工艺的制定决定了牛仔服装的风格和产品档次。详细地介绍了牛仔成衣后整理洗水加工的工艺方法,包括喷砂、猫须、退浆、酵洗、酵石磨、漂洗及解漂、双氧水煮漂、高锰酸钾漂等,并具体分析了各工艺流程、工艺处方和相关的注意事项。     

水洗处理对涂料色织牛仔布性能的影响

采用双氧水水洗(氧漂)、次氯酸钠水洗(氯漂)、高锰酸钾水洗(锰漂)及纤维素酶水洗(酵素漂)四种方法对涂料色织牛仔布进行水洗处理。探讨不同水洗方法对涂料色织牛仔布的K/S值、透气性能、断裂强力、纤维微观形貌的影响。结果表明,除锰漂外,其它三种水洗方法对涂料色织牛仔布水洗褪色效果不明显,水洗后牛仔布的透气率下降,氧漂、氯漂、锰漂的下降幅度为25%左右,而酵素漂的下降幅度为8%;四种水洗方法处理后,涂料色织牛仔布的断裂伸长率变化不大,锰漂的则略有下降。     

减轻后水洗中的靛蓝再沾色

本文就后水洗步骤从棉织物上去除物理吸附的靛蓝以及减轻靛蓝以及减轻靛蓝对织物回染（“粘色”）的可能性作了研究。试验并比较了各种不同的化学药品和纺织助剂的作用。研究结果表明,在研究的范围内去沾染效果与表面活性剂的化学结构无关,但在乙氧基化程度和净洗力之间存在着近乎直线的关系。应用复配的常规净洗剂可以获得最好的结果。     

牛仔成衣洗水生产实践

牛仔服装的洗水是牛仔服新风格形成的关键工序,水洗方法的选择和水洗工艺的制定,决定了牛仔服装的风格和产品档次。牛仔成衣后整理洗水加工的工艺方法,包括喷砂、猫须、退浆、酵洗、酵石磨、漂洗及解漂、双氧水煮漂、高锰酸钾漂等,文中具体分析了各工艺流程、工艺处方和相关的注意事项。     

Study on effect of blend ratio on thermal comfort properties of cotton/nylon-blended fabrics with high-performance Kermel fibre

This study presents the thermal comfort properties of woven fabrics made of Kermel, cotton/nylon and cotton/nylon /Kermel-blended yarns. Our aim in this study is to combine the high comfort properties of cotton/nylon fibres with high thermal protective properties of Kermel fibre in different woven fabrics. Thus, Kermel (100%), cotton/nylon (50:50) and four blends of the 50% cotton fibres with nylon and Kermel (40:10, 30:20, 20:30 and 10:40) were spun on a ring-spinning frame and twisted into two-folded yarns with the same yarn count of 30/2(Ne) and twist level of 560 TPM. Using the produced yarns, woven fabrics with identical characteristic and structure were also produced. Then, the thermal comfort and physical properties of fabrics were studied in terms of fabric porosity, thermal resistance, thermal conductivity, water vapour resistance and air permeability. The results show that the porosity, air permeability and thermal resistance increase with Kermel fibre blend ratio. Conversely, the water vapour resistance decreases with increase of Kermel fibre blend ratio up to 40%, while 100% Kermel-woven fabric exhibits a higher water vapour resistance value. Nevertheless, the thermal conductivity of cotton/nylon-blended Kermel woven fabric is unchanged with increase of Kermel fibre blend ratio up to 40%, whereas at 100% Kermel fibre blend ratio, the lowest thermal conductivity is obtained. The obtained results implied that woven fabric produced from cotton/nylon (50/10) blended with 40% Kermel fibre resulted in proper thermal comfort properties.     

竹原纤维针织物透气导湿性能研究

文章通过对纯竹原纤维织物、棉2/竹原1(三股)织物、纯棉织物三种织物的对比试验,测试了竹原纤维织物透气性、透湿性、芯吸效应,并对各试验进行了分析,最终得出竹原纤维织物较相同规格的棉2/竹原1织物、纯棉织物,具有较好透气性、透湿性,明显的芯吸效应,是夏季服装的理想面料。     

洗水对含木棉纤维牛仔面料性能的影响

采用普洗、氧漂、氯漂、锰漂和酵素漂等方法对含木棉牛仔面料进行处理,探讨不同洗水方法对含木棉牛仔面料的K/S值、透气性、断裂强力和断裂伸长率的影响。结果表明,除锰漂、氧漂外,其它三种洗水方法的褪色效果不明显;经过氧漂、锰漂洗水后的牛仔面料,透气率增加14%以上,酵素漂的透气率下降超过14%,而氯漂和普洗的透气率基本不变;氧漂、氯漂处理面料的经纬向断裂强力增加,而锰漂、酵素漂的减小,普洗经向减小,纬向变化不大。     

激光雕花技术在牛仔成衣水洗加工中的应用

近年来牛仔成衣水洗工艺发展日新月异,激光雕花技术以其经济、环保、个性化的特点受到牛仔水洗领域企业和科研机构的广泛关注。本文介绍了激光雕花技术在牛仔成衣水洗加工中的原理、特点、发展概况以及生产工艺流程,并对当前采用此加工技术的相关应用产品进行了分类说明。随着纺织产业的升级和国家环保法规的实施,激光雕花技术在牛仔成衣水洗加工领域拥有良好的发展前景。     

影响牛仔裤水洗效果的因素分析

水洗后整理可使牛仔裤获得丰富多彩的外观效果,从助剂、pH值和浴比等因素对影响牛仔裤的水洗效果进行了分析。结果表明助剂、浴比、温度、pH值和时间等对牛仔裤水洗效果均有影响,不同的设备和工艺操作也会产生不同的水洗效果。     

Analyzing the effects of special washing processes on characteristics of sewing threads

In recent years, wet (washing, bleaching, etc.) and dry (abrasive, laser shaping, rodeo, etc.) operations applied on fashion denim products have become an important factor to increase the added value. However, these wet and dry processes applied to the denim products may have adverse effects on the strength of the fabric and other supplementary materials of denim products. For example, thread breakages affect the repair ratios and quality of products, which causes time and profitability losses in companies. The main objective of this study is to analyse how the types of washing affect the strength of the sewing threads that are commonly used in the production of denim trousers. In this study, 100% cotton denim fabric with a weight of 11.5 ounces and two different sewing threads were used. The fabrics are sewn as trouser legs with chain and lock stitch. Five different washes were applied to the trouser legs. The obtained data were evaluated in the R statistical program. As a result of the analyses made it is proven that the washing techniques used have an effect on the sewing threads’ tensile strength and elongation at break. The tensile strengths of lock stitch and chain stitch decrease averagely 35% and elongation at break of lock stitch decreases %22 and chain stitch decreases 29.8%.     

冷冻处理对丝织物结构和性能的影响

将蚕丝织物在-28℃条件下进行冷冻处理,利用扫描电镜、红外光谱分析仪、X射线衍射仪对处理前后丝织物的形态结构进行表征,利用织物拉伸仪和织物透气性测定仪等对织物的力学性能、吸湿性能、透气性等进行测试和分析。结果表明,对丝绸织物湿冷处理后,织物的表面形态发生变化,力学性能与冷冻时间有明显的相关性,透气性能明显增加。     

Moisture transmission behaviour of individual component and multi-layered fabric with sweat and pure water

Moisture transport through multilayer clothing system is one of the most important aspect governing the comfort and performance of multi-layered clothing system. In the present study, properties critical to functioning of outdoor apparels were tested using sweat and pure water for both multi-layered and single layer components i.e., polyester knitted fabric as inner layer (next to skin), polyester fleece/polyester spacer as middle layer and PU coated nylon as outer layer. Water vapour transmission rate of fabrics when tested with sweat solution was significantly lower as compared to water. Fabric with sweat also showed lower drying rate than with water. For sweat solution, absorption rate is higher for both inner and outer surface as compared to pure water for single layer fabrics. However, the wetting time (inversely related to spreading speed) is higher at inner surface and lower at outer surface. In general, the performance of multi-layered ensemble is dominated by the impact of PU coated layer. Multi-layered structure with spacer fabric as middle layer exhibits better water vapour transmission rate, overall moisture management coefficient and drying rate as compared to multi-layered structure with fleece fabric.     

透湿超纤合成革的制备及其性能研究

制备了一种具有良好透湿性能的超纤合成革,并考察了聚氨酯树脂、涂覆量、聚醚硅油和超纤基布对超纤合成革透湿性能的影响。研究表明:在面层树脂不发生膨润变形的情况下,当面层树脂的亲水性增强、面层和粘结层涂覆量减小时,超纤合成革的水蒸气渗透量、水蒸气渗透和吸收系数增大,但粘结层树脂的亲水性对透湿性能影响不明显;加入2%聚醚硅油,超纤合成革水蒸气渗透量、水蒸气渗透和吸收系数均有所提高;适当增加基布的亲水性,超纤合成革水蒸气渗透和吸收系数增大。     

Studies on moisture transmission properties of PV-blended fabrics

Moisture transmission properties are most important for fabric comfort. We have studied the moisture transmission properties of the plain-woven fabric produced with polyester–viscose-(PV) blended yarns. PV-blended yarns of varying blend proportion, yarn count and twist levels have been used for fabric manufacture. A three-variable Box and Behnken factorial design technique has been used to study the interaction effects of the above variables on the aforesaid characteristics of fabrics. The interactive effect of these three variables on the air permeability, water vapour permeability, in-plane wicking and vertical wicking of PV-blended fabrics has been studied and the response surface equations for all the properties have been derived; also, the design variables have been optimized for all the moisture transmission-related properties. Most of the moisture transmission characteristics were found to be affected significantly by blend proportion, count and twist levels at 95% level of significance with the present variables.