多重集聚纺纱结构成形机制及其针织物性能

为解决多毛羽传统环锭纱针织困难,而光洁的常规集聚纺纱线织物手感硬的技术难题,建立串联半开放式多重集聚纺纱方法,分析多重集聚纺纱机制和结构成形特征。理论分析结果表明,多重集聚纺纱线具有外紧而内柔的结构特征。基于理论解析,在相同工艺条件下,分别采用传统环锭、常规集聚和多重集聚纱线制成针织面料,对比分析了各针织物压缩回弹、透气、抗起毛起球、耐磨、染色等性能。测试结果表明：与传统环锭纱相比,多重集聚纱线针织物耐磨、透气性、抗起毛起球性改善;与常规集聚纱线相比,多重集聚纱线针织物悬垂性、压缩回弹性和染色性能明显提高。     

集聚纺和环锭纺细纱及织物的芯吸性能

评价了集聚纺和环锭纺细纱及其织物的芯吸性能。实验结果表明,环锭纺芯吸比集聚纱快,由环锭纱制成的织物比集聚纱制成的织物芯吸快,纱线中纤维排列太紧从芯吸的角度来讲是不利的。     

Influence and comparison of emerging techniques of yarn manufacturing on physical–mechanical properties of polyester-/cotton-blended yarns and their woven fabrics

Abstract

In this study, the physical–mechanical properties of ring spun, ring compact, rotor and air-vortex yarns were investigated. The study was carried with yarn having linear densities of 24.4 tex and 36.7 tex, which were then converted to woven fabrics. The ring spun yarns have higher values of strength but also with higher strength irregularities. Extra-ordinarily low hairiness was observed in air-vortex yarns due to its unique yarn formation technique. The deviation rate (DR) of yarns have correlation with the mass spectrogram of respective yarns obtained from USTER Tester 5. Rotor and air-vortex yarns exhibited higher coefficient of friction. The woven fabrics made from ring spun yarns exhibited higher tensile and tear strength with higher elongation at break. The fabrics made from air-vortex yarns have very good pilling grade due to less protruding fibres on their surface and good structural integrity.     

A study on thermal properties of single-jersey knitted fabrics produced from ring and compact folded yarns

This paper presents a study on the thermal properties of single-jersey knitted fabrics manufactured using ring, compact and ring/compact folded yarns. The variations in thermal properties depending on the yarn twist and traveller weight of folded yarn single-jersey knits were discussed. It was found that the thermal resistance of knitted fabrics generally increases as the traveller weight decreases, and also water vapour permeability reduces as the traveller weight decreases. The water vapour permeability and air permeability of knitted fabrics increase as the twist increases. The thermal conductivity of knitted fabrics decreases as the twist increases. The air permeability and water vapour permeability values were higher for compact folded yarn fabrics as compared to those values of ring and ring/compact folded yarn fabrics. It is observed that yarn twist and traveller weight have affected different thermal properties of single-jersey folded yarn fabrics.     

Comparison of fabric properties knitted by pin spacer compact and conventional compact yarns

This study examined the influence of pin spacer apparatus attachment on compact yarn quality parameters and physical properties of knitted fabrics manufactured using those 100% cotton compact yarns. Two groups of compact yarns were spun on regular compact yarn spinning frame with and without addition of pin spacer apparatus which is placed at the end of the drawing unit of regular compact yarn spinning frame. Totally eight yarns were spun at four different yarn number levels (Ne 24/1, Ne 30/1, Ne 36/1 and Ne 40/1) and two different spinning conditions (with and without pin spacer apparatus). Spun yarn types were then knitted on the industrial sized plain knitting machine. Knitted fabrics were used in the greige and dyed form to evaluate their bursting strength (kPa), dimensional change, abrasion related mass loss (%), pilling resistance, air permeability (mm/s) and colour difference. Test results were then statistically evaluated and influence of pin spacer attachment on yarn quality parameters and fabric properties was determined. In the frame of this experimental work, attachment of pin spacer apparatus improved compact yarn characteristics especially at yarn evenness, imperfection and hairiness values. In case of knitted fabric properties, it was found that pin spacer apparatus attached compact yarn utilization significantly improved air permeability properties of knitted fabrics.     

The effect of core-sheath proportion on the characteristics of fabrics produced with hollow yarns: part II comfort and mechanical properties

The study aims to investigate the effect of hollow yarn structure and the sheath-core proportion of hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the knitted fabrics. In order to accomplish this, core yarns in the yarn count of 59 tex were produced by using cotton, viscose, wool, and polyester fibers in the sheath and different ratios of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) in the core. After completion of yarn production on ring spinning frame, the yarns in the form of packages were used to produce plain knitted fabrics. Fabrics were then divided into two groups, one of which was washed during a time period in order to remove PVA from the core to obtain hollow yarn structure. Air and water permeability, and wicking properties of the knitted fabrics were measured before and after washing processes. Mechanical properties such as pilling and bursting strength of the fabrics were also examined. The results show that washing process and PVA proportion used to produce core spun yarns have a significant effect on the permeability and mechanical properties of the fabrics.     

Understanding the influence of fibre,yarn and fabric parameters on UV protection of wool-knitted fabrics

This work investigated the influence of fibre, yarn and fabric parameters on the UV protection of fabrics. It proposed a model for UV interaction based on a theoretical hypothesis, targeted experimentation and statistical analysis. Undyed and untreated wool-knitted fabrics with varying mean fibre diameter, yarn linear density, yarn twist, fabric cover factor and fabric structure were examined. A statistical model was presented to report the relationship between fibre/yarn/fabric parameters and fabric UPF values. An optical model on the interaction between the UV light and a single jersey fabric was constructed to understand the penetration of UV light. The models were verified by the UV transmittance results of knitted wool fabrics. The results obtained from the statistical and optical models were used to propose a set of optimized parameters for lightweight summer/spring UV-protective knitted fabrics. Testing confirmed that these fabric parameters provided both high UV protection and good tactile comfort.     

Permeability properties of single jersey fabrics made of hollow yarns

In this work effect of using hollow yarns on the permeability properties of the single jersey knitted fabrics were studied. Firstly yarns were produced by ring spinning machine using cotton, viscose and acrylic fibres in the mantle and water soluble polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) fibre in the core. Single jersey fabrics were knitted and PVA core was removed subsequently by washing process to create hollow yarn. Weight, air permeability and water transmission rate properties of fabrics were measured before and after washing and compared with reference fabrics. Due to the removal of PVA fibres from the yarn core after washing treatment, air permeability and water vapour transmission rate of the all kind of single jersey fabrics which were produced with hollow yarns increased as well as weight of the fabrics decreased which will cause more comfort during any exercise. It was also found that mantle fibre type and PVA ratio have significant effect on the fabric properties.     

Impact of structural variations in hollow yarn on heat and moisture transport properties of fabrics

The use of hollow/microporous yarns plays an important role in enhancing the thermo‐physiological comfort properties of fabrics. Depending on structural variations in hollow yarn, heat and moisture regulation behaviours of fabrics can be affected significantly. In this study, three types of hollow cotton yarn fabrics, produced by introducing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) filament in the core, PVA staple fibres in the blend and PVA filament in doubling with cotton spun yarn, are studied. All three types of pre‐hollow yarns and reference yarns are made with a variation in spinning technique (single roving/double roving) to prepare eight single jersey knitted fabrics. The hollow/microporous structure of the yarn is created by dissolving the PVA fibres using hot washing of the fabrics. On overall evaluation of the fabric’s thermo‐physiological comfort properties, the doubled hollow yarn fabrics are found to be better than other fabrics. In general, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity, wicking and drying properties of all types of hollow yarn fabrics increase after repeated laundering, while air permeability, water vapour permeability and water absorbency of hollow yarn fabrics mostly decrease. In contrast with fabrics made from yarn produced through single roving technique, use of double roving technique only improves fabric water vapour permeability.     

Thermo-physiological comfort properties of double-face knitted fabrics made from different types of polyester yarns and cotton yarn

Double-face knitted fabrics with hydrophobic inner and hydrophilic outer layers are characterised by their advantageous thermo-physiological comfort property that facilitates the transport of sweat from skin to outer fabric layer where it can be evaporated easily. In this study, for the production of double-face knitted fabrics, cotton yarn as hydrophilic yarn type and five different polyester filament yarns consisting of standard polyester, hollow polyester, micro polyester, textured polyester and textured micro polyester as hydrophobic yarn type were used. In order to determine the thermo-physiological comfort properties of the fabrics, air permeability, water vapour permeability, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capacity were measured. The results were comparatively analysed using statistical methods. The experimental results demonstrated that the polyester-type yarns and the combinations of them with the cotton yarn in fabric layers affected the thermo-physiological comfort properties significantly. The fabrics with polyester-type inner face and cotton outer face showed the best moisture transmission properties.     

机织针织复合织物与多层双轴向纬编织物拉伸性能对比

选用玻璃纤维作经纱、纬纱和高强涤纶作针织纱分别编织机织针织复合(CWK)织物和多层双轴向纬编(MBWK)织物,测试两种织物的横向、纵向的拉伸性能,分析比较拉伸负荷和位移特征曲线。研究表明：在拉伸过程中,CWK织物MBWK织物均先由其中的经纱或纬纱,在较低的伸长下,承担较高的负荷,直至经纱或纬纱断裂,然后由针织结构,在较高的伸长下,承担较低的负荷,直至针织结构破坏;经纱和纬纱以交织形式衬入针织结构中,使得CWK织物的轴向的拉伸强度稍低于MBWK织物,但起到一定的“预牵伸”作用,可使针织纱对经纱和纬纱捆绑效果更好。     

Comfort properties of bamboo/cotton blended knitted fabrics produced from rotor spun yarns

The comfort characteristics of bamboo/cotton-blended knitted fabrics made from rotor-spun yarns were studied in this research work. Five different blend proportions namely 100% bamboo, 100% cotton, 50:50 cotton:bamboo, 70:30 cotton:bamboo and 30:70 cotton:bamboo were used to produce rotor-spun yarns of 30^sNe_c. The yarn samples developed out of these different blend proportions were evaluated for yarn strength and elongation, yarn unevenness, yarn imperfections and used to produce single-jersey-knitted fabrics. All the fabric samples were dyed and finished. Fabric samples were evaluated for geometrical properties such as course/inch, wales/inch, stitch density and thickness apart from measuring comfort properties such as airpermeability, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance and water vapour permeability. The results indicated that 50/50 bamboo/cotton-blended knits have comparable fabric quality in terms of comfort properties with respect to 100% bamboo fabrics.     

结构参数对割圈绒织物热湿舒适性的影响

为研究纬编割圈绒织物的热湿舒适性,以吸湿快干型涤纶低弹网络丝为原料,试织了11种不同规格的割圈绒产品。采用实验方法考察了全毛长、底纱送纱量、底纱规格等参数对割圈绒织物热湿舒适性的影响。利用回归分析,得出各结构参数与透气量、芯吸高度、保温率等指标的关系。结果表明：全毛长、底纱送纱量、底纱规格等结构参数均影响割圈绒织物的热湿舒适性,其中全毛长是影响织物透气性、保温性的高度显著性因素。全毛长与透气量和克罗值分别呈负相关和正相关关系,底纱送纱量与透湿量呈正相关关系,其相关系数为0.9973。     

黄麻混织针织物的设计与开发

本研究针对黄麻纱线粗硬、毛羽较多,弹性低等特点,对纱线毛羽、细度及强度进行测试并选择适合的棉及涤纶纱线进行混合。将黄麻与棉及涤纶纱线经过合股上蜡处理后,在针织横机上设计并编织罗纹、移圈、圆筒等不同组织和结构的黄麻混织织物及产品。通过对黄麻混织织物的耐磨性、透气性、抗起毛起球等性能进行测试与分析,结果表明麻涤1罗纹织物耐磨性、耐起毛起球性最好,而麻棉4为单面圆筒织物线圈密度最小,透气性能最优;麻棉2由于具有移圈及凹凸效果,透气性能次之,耐磨性稍差。所织织物适合制作具有田园风格的家居类装饰物,从而开发黄麻纤维更广泛的应用领域。     

珍珠纤维针织物的热湿舒适性

通过透气性、瞬间冷感、透湿性和毛细效应常规对比试验,对珍珠纤维、珍珠纤维P棉、牛奶纤维P羊毛P棉莫代尔、莫代尔P棉、粘胶纤维等11 种针织面料进行了测试,研究了珍珠纤维针织物的热湿舒适性。结果表明,珍珠纤维、珍珠纤维P棉针织物具有良好的湿传递性能,且优于纯粘胶织物,但它们的瞬间冷感差别不大     

凉爽毛针织面料的研究

文章对毛纱加强捻、定捻的工艺及强捻前后纱线的性能进行了研究.为使强捻毛纱获得良好的可编性能,加装张力装置和增加喂纱张力是一种有效的方法.选择了低捻毛纱、强捻毛纱、低捻毛涤纱和强捻毛涤纱编织的4种纬平针面料进行实验与对比分析.提出了使用强捻纱及面料亲水性整理以获得凉爽毛针织面料的新方法.强捻毛纱及面料的相关性能测试表明,强捻毛纱面料比低捻毛纱面料具有更好的服用性能,面料的凉爽性能得到体现.     

仪纶~(TM)纬平针织物的抗起毛起球性能

本文分别选用环锭纺、赛络纺、赛络紧密纺纺纱工艺,制备了同等纱支的仪纶~(TM)纯纺、仪纶~(TM)/棉(65/35)混纺针织纱线及其纬平针织物,对比测试了纱线性能及其织物抗起毛起球性能。实验结果显示:不同纺纱工艺的仪纶~(TM)针织纱线总体性能相似,赛络紧密纺纱线纱体结构更均匀;赛络纺织物的抗起毛起球性较环锭纺织物高0.5级,赛络紧密纺织物的抗起毛起球性明显好于环锭纺织物;混纺织物的抗起毛起球等级和起球粒数均有所改善。     

喷气涡流纱及其织物性能分析

文章对竹浆纤维和莫代尔纤维两种原料的喷气涡流纱与环锭纱及其织物进行了测试分析和比较,得出喷气涡流纱制成的织物与环锭纱制成的织物相比具有更加柔软,强度较低,表面光滑,耐磨,透气较好的特点。     

羊毛混纺户外运动服用针织面料开发与性能评价

为满足人们对春秋季户外休闲运动服装的需求,采用藏青羊毛纱、白色羊毛纱、涤纶丝以及锦纶丝为原料,在双面电脑提花机上开发4款羊毛针织面料,并选择2款规格相近的高密度面料作为对比样。对6种面料的耐磨性、顶破强力、抗起毛起球性、透气量、悬垂系数、克罗值、液态水分管理能力进行测试分析,采用模糊综合评价方法对面料的服用舒适性能进行评价,最后选出服用性能最好的羊毛针织面料,为羊毛户外休闲运动针织面料的开发提供参考。     

Flame retardant,anti-static and wear comfort properties of modacrylic/Excel®/anti-static PET blend yarns and their knitted fabrics

Abstract

This study examined the flame retardant, anti-static properties, and wear comfort of knitted fabrics made from three types of yarns composed of modacrylic, antistatic PET, cotton, and Excel^® fibers. A limit oxygen index (LOI) above 28 was observed in the two types of modacrylic knitted fabric specimens made from the Excel^®-included and cotton-blended yarns. The Excel^®-included modacrylic knitted fabric showed superior flame retardant properties to the cotton blended and 100% cotton ones. The anti-static properties of the two types of modacrylic knitted fabrics imbedded with 3?wt. % of antistatic PET fibers were observed experimentally and compared with the anti-static property of the 100% cotton fabric by rubbing with wool and cotton fabrics attached to the measuring apparatus; the Excel^®-included modacrylic knitted fabric showed better anti-static properties. Regarding the wear comfort, quick perspiration absorption, and fast drying properties of the Excel^®-included modacryl knitted fabric was superior to those of the cotton blended and 100% cotton ones. The thermal conductivity of the Excel^®-included modacrylic knitted fabric was lower than that of the cotton blended and 100% cotton ones. This was attributed to the lower intrinsic thermal conductivity of the Excel^® than cotton fibers, and the higher porosity and fabric thickness of the Excel^®-included fabric than the cotton blended and 100% cotton fabrics. The water vapor permeability of the Excel^®-included modacrylic fabric was lower than that of the 100% cotton one. In addition, the Excel^®-included modacrylic fabric appeared to have an inferior tactile hand compared to the cotton blended and 100% cotton fabrics because of its less extensibility, lower compressibility, higher bending and shear rigidity.