Determination of a sewing quality index of denim fabrics

This paper reports a determination of a sewing quality index in order to assist the industry in providing quality clothing before production. The particularity of this work lies in the fact that it encompasses various sewing quality parameters (efficiency, slippage, and puckering) into a single overall quality index. Moreover, a program was investigated, to determine the quality index, so that the manufacturer has only to enter the available data. In fact, by entering the input parameters which are blend composition, seam direction, fabric mass, stitch density, and seam thread linear density, an overall quality index will be given and the seam quality as well as the defect sources will be displayed. To reach this aim, regression models were determined to predict seam quality. In this work, 18 denim fabrics were sewn with two commercial sewing threads. Their influences, ranked according to the seam quality, were also determined. The seam efficiency was calculated by determining both the seam and the fabric's tensile strength. The seam slippage was determined by calculating the difference between the elongation at the break of the seam and the elongation at the break of the fabric. Seam puckering was determined by measuring both the fabric and seam’s thickness.     

织物性能及缝纫工艺对雪纺织物缝口强度的影响

选用服装厂常用的6种雪纺织物,测定其基本参数,采用正交试验方法,分析线迹密度、机针、缝纫线3种缝纫参数对缝口强度的影响及雪纺织物性能与缝口强度的相关性。试验结果表明：对于较薄的雪纺织物,缝口破坏形式为纱线滑脱,线迹密度的影响最为显著,缝口强度与线迹密度成负相关;对于较厚的雪纺织物,缝口破坏形式为缝纫线断裂,缝纫线的影响最为显著,缝口强度与线迹密度、缝纫线粗细成正相关;而机针对缝口强度的影响最小。     

Geometrical model to calculate the consumption of sewing thread for 301 lockstitch

Sewing thread is one of the most basic yet important components of a garment. Thread consumption for the lockstitch (Class 301) can be calculated by using its geometrical shape. This paper aims to develop a geometrical model to calculate the thread consumption for lockstitch (Class 301). Based on the basic geometry of lockstitch, a model has been proposed. The model is derived mathematically taking into account different variables: stitch length, stitch density, material thickness, and interlacing. Finally, the model was verified for 19 samples by comparing actual thread consumption with predicted thread consumption. The proposed model predicts the thread consumption with 97% accuracy. Sensitivity analysis is also performed to determine the significant influencing factor affecting the thread consumption. The proposed model can predict the thread consumption precisely for 301 lockstitch. Therefore, this model is useful for the apparel industry.     

Geometrical model to calculate the consumption of sewing thread for 504 over-edge stitch

Sewing thread is one of the most important components of a sewn product that contributes significantly in the useful life of a product. Stitch class 504 is the one which is used in all types of sewn products. Its thread consumption is higher than class 300 and class 400. A mathematical model to predict the sewing thread consumption of stitch class 504 has been proposed in this paper. The model is based on the geometry of the stitch. The proposed model takes into account material thickness and stitch density. The model was validated by using 24 samples (with different material thickness and stitch densities). The accuracy of the model was found to be 99%. Sensitivity analysis revealed that stitch density has 62% effect and material thickness has 38% effect on thread consumption. The proposed model can predict the thread consumption accurately; therefore, it can be used for better estimation of required thread and encourage its better utilization in sewn product industry.     

面料性能与面料缝缩的关系研究

服装面料的缝缩是代表面料可缝性的一个重要因素.通过实验探讨了常见服装面料各种性能,如种类、厚度、表面处理情况等对面料缝缩的影响程度.     

缝迹对针织物接缝强力的影响

分析了锁式线迹、包缝线迹对针织物接缝强力的影响,认为:缝有平缝和包缝线迹的针织物接缝强力均随着缝迹密度的增大而增大,而且,缝有包缝线迹的针织物接缝效率随缝迹密度的增大变化更快。研究结果对合理制定针织物缝合质量检验标准,指导生产实践具有一定的理论意义和实用价值。     

针织面料性能对服装边口缝制工艺的影响

摘 要：文章探讨针织面料性能对服装边口工艺的影响。实验选用10种针织面料,用聚类方法将试样按伸长率和厚度的差别分成两组,选配不同的缝型、线迹密度、缝纫线、压脚进行缝制,分别测试试样边口的尺寸、拉伸性和强度的变化。利用SPSS软件对实验结果进行统计分析,通过均值比较、T检验和偏相关分析,总结织物性能对服装边口工艺影响规律,以及提高针织成衣边口缝制质量的方法。研究显示,织物拉伸性能越好,对服装边口缝制后尺寸影响越大;织物厚度对伸长率变化影响显著,线迹密度与边口强度、边口伸长率呈正比关系;研究可用于对针织服装实际生产加工的预报和对边口工艺的选配。     

采用正交实验进行服装缝纫工艺的参数设计

缝口强度是服装企业成衣加工质量控制的要素,研究仅选择成衣生产中缝迹、缝线强度、线迹密度和针尖形状等缝纫参数进行正交实验,求得优化的缝纫工艺参数组合.研究表明,对于弹力面料来说,优化的缝纫参数组合为:双线链式缝迹,缝纫线为30.9 tex的涤纶线,线迹密度为14针/3cm,针尖形状为U形;缝迹对缝口强度的影响最大,缝线强度和线迹密度对缝口强度的影响力相当;针尖形状对缝口强度的影响最小.     

面向服装面料自动缝合的缝纫工艺参数建模

为了解决缝纫中面料性能与缝纫加工工艺参数仅依靠技术工的经验完成匹配的问题,通过建立面料在缝纫过程中的多力场耦合模型智能选择缝纫加工工艺参数。以纬编织物为例,首先建立了织物单元的三维结构模型;其次分析了穿刺过程中织物组织与纱线间的抱合力对缝纫针的影响,并对面料在缝纫过程中的运动进行分析,创新性地建立了缝纫过程中基于面料力学性能的多力场耦合模型;然后建立了织物的有限元模型和缝纫针的几何模型,分析面料在缝纫过程中应力、应变的分布情况,得到面料在缝纫过程中因受外力作用而发生的形变并验证模型的正确性;最后搭建了协同自动缝纫实验平台进行实验验证数学多力场耦合模型的正确性。结果表明,该方法相比于工人凭借着经验完成缝纫可减少面料的形变和皱缩率,提高服装缝纫质量,为下一步服装面料自动缝合提供工艺参数,并为服装智能制造提供理论及技术参考。     

使用PTT弹性缝纫线SabaFlex达到最佳的线缝弹性

弹性材料的广泛应用更需要注重服装加工中的线缝弹性。通过针型、针密、线的张力来控制线缝弹性已不能满足当今要求。Amann&Sohne公司开发的SabaFlex是一种高弹性的缝纫线,通过试验证明是解决弹性材料加工的一种创新方法。     

面向柔性面料立体缝纫的随形机械手设计

针对服装制造业中柔性面料自动化立体缝纫加工难、加工质量稳定性差的问题,提出了一种适用于柔性面料自动化立体缝纫的随形机械手装置。首先分析了缝纫工艺,设计出一种随形机械手结构;其次对该结构进行位置、速度和加速度,以及机械手工作空间的分析;最后对该机械手结构进行力学分析和验证。结果表明：该结构形式的机械手可对袖口直径范围为200～260 mm的袖片具有自适应性,并可实现基于力反馈控制的自动撑紧功能,不会对面料产生损伤,该机械手还可实现自动调布功能,且单手指调节范围为-12.6～16.8 mm,相对误差为4.34%,最大误差值为0.7 mm,可满足实际的缝纫工艺需求。     

缝迹对针织物拉伸性能的影响

实验分析了缝迹对针织物拉伸性能———断裂强力和断裂伸长的影响 ,并就 30 1号线迹和三线包缝线迹作了对比分析     

功能性针织物液态水传导性能

影响针织物液态水传导性能的重要因素除原料外,还有织物结构、线圈密度和面密度等指标。以棉和沟槽型新型合纤作原料,设计编织了几种舒适性双面网眼功能针织物。采用新型仪器MMT对织物的液态水传导性能进行综合测试,得出织物上下表面含水量随时间变化的曲线及水分传导速率和水分含量差指标,就织物的不同结构及物理指标对液态水传导性能的影响进行分析,发现双层网眼组织有较好的液态水传导性能,采用网眼均匀分布结构及适中线圈密度的织物水分传导性能优良。     

PBO缝纫线的生产及性能研究

将PBO纤维和几种常见的阻燃纤维的性能进行了对比研究。分析了纤维的结构、拉伸强度、变形能力、极限氧指数等性能。通过合理配置纺织各工序工艺参数,开发出了PBO缝纫线,并对影响PBO缝纫线品质的主要性能指标测试。     

Utilization of the yarn pullout test in estimation of the reserved energy of rib knitted fabrics

The yarn pullout test is a prevailing and particular method to evaluate the effects of yarn properties and the structural characteristics of the fabric on the fabric mechanical performance. In this research, a theoretical model of yarn pull out is presented to determine the reserved energy of weft-knitted fabrics with rib 1 × 1 structure. This model is based on the fabric dimensional properties, i.e. stitch length, wale density, yarn diameter and contact angle of yarns. In order to appraise the proposed model, five different double jersey weft-knitted fabrics with rib 1 × 1 structure were produced and exposed to pullout test. Comparison between deviations of theoretical results from experimental results demonstrates that the presented theoretical model exhibits a rational estimation of the reserved energy in these fabrics.     

缝纫线物理机械性能与其线迹质量的关系

应用SPSS统计软件,对缝纫线的断裂强力、韧度指数等16项物理机械性能指标进行因子分析,按特征根大于1和因子累计贡献率大于80%~85%选出前3个因子。利用这3个因子值对缝纫线进行聚类分析,将其聚为4类,类群Ⅰ和类群Ⅱ的综合物理机械性能较好,类群Ⅲ的综合物理机械性能中等,类群Ⅳ的综合物理机械性能较差。同时,运用因子回归分析法,建立了线迹质量的评价指标即缝缩率、缝迹强度、缝迹延伸度与3个因子之间的回归数学模型,可用于预测缝纫线的线迹质量。     

针梭织面料拼接前后物理性能的对比分析

探讨针织、梭织面料拼接前后的物理性能。选取几种常用于拼接的针织、梭织面料试样,利用FAST风格测试仪和KES-FB4表面测试仪测试试样拼接前后的压缩、弯曲、拉伸及表面摩擦、表面粗糙度等物理性能,运用SPSS软件的非参数检验方法,结合具体图表对其进行对比分析。结果表明,针织、梭织面料拼接后的物理性能与拼接前试样存在显著差异。     

缝纫针使用时间对缝制质量的影响

缝纫针是缝纫机上的一个小部件,但它对缝纫质量起着十分重要的作用,并最终影响缝纫外观。从缝纫强力和线迹弹伸性两方面论述了缝纫针的使用时间对缝制质量的影响。     

The effect of recycled fibers on the washing performance of denim fabrics

In this study, denim fabrics were produced with yarns obtained from cotton fibers (CO), recycled cotton fibers obtained from yarn wastes (r-CO), and fibers produced from recycled PET bottles (r-PET). Enzyme and stone washing processes were applied systematically on these fabrics. Mass per unit area, breaking force, elongation at max force, tear strength, air permeability, and circular bending rigidity of fabrics were measured. The findings showed that r-CO fiber has negative effect on tear and breaking force. Breaking force, elongation at max force, and tear strength values of the fabrics increased depending on the increase in r-PET content. However, fabric handle was negatively affected associated with the r-PET ratio due to the increase in stiffness. Mass per unit area, breaking force, air permeability, and circular bending rigidity values of fabrics decreased after the washing processes. The effect of fibers on enzyme- or stone-washed fabrics showed a change according to finished fabrics. It can be said that fabrics containing r-PET are more resistant than cotton and recycled cotton in various aggressive denim washing methods such as bleaching or different washing process conditions such as rising temperature, and time.     

国内外轻薄型毛料制品加工性能差距研究

利用国际上的先进仪器，通过对国内外西装面料性能的测试，找到了国内外毛料产品在压缩性能、弯曲性能、延伸性能、剪切性能等方面主要的性能指标和差距，并进一步研究了这些差距对服装的缝制质量、成形性、风格带来的影响，为改进我国轻薄型毛制品质量提供了方向，为广大的服装企业选择面料、制定工艺提供了数据支持。