纯棉纱线合股数对织物性能的影响

为研究纯棉纱线合股数对织物力学性能和保形性的影响,采用线密度相同的单纱、双股线、3股线、4股线4种股线类型,以适当的经、纬密分别织制成平纹、斜纹、缎纹组织的织物。对织物的拉伸性能、撕裂强力、拉伸弹性、折皱回复性、悬垂性、弯曲性进行测试与分析。结果表明:3股线织物的断裂强力和撕裂强力较大,4股线织物的断裂伸长率较大,双股线织物的拉伸弹性回复率较大;平纹织物仅有双股线织物的折皱回复性优于单股线织物,斜纹和缎纹织物的折皱回复性随合股数的增加均变差;双股线平纹织物悬垂性相对较好,但均没有斜纹和缎纹织物的悬垂性好;单纱织物的弯曲性能比股线织物好。     

色织衬衫面料的设计与开发

结合流行趋势,采用涤纶纱为原料,利用平纹、斜纹、小提花等组织与色纱排列的搭配,设计了4种女士色织衬衣面料,并上机织造了4块面料;对设计的系列织物的透气性、耐磨性、抗皱性和起毛起球性进行了测试分析,对色织衬衣面料的开发具有一定的参考.     

机织物计算机模拟方法

分析现有的织物CAD软件在模拟素色织物时存在的不足,给出了纱线的数学模型,根据织物表面浮长线反光的原理,建立了织物浮长线上各点反光亮度计算的数学模型,该数学模型考虑了纱线屈曲、捻向、截面形状等因素对浮长线上各点反光亮度的影响。给出了根据上述数学模型计算并生成织物模拟效果图的方法,依据该方法在计算机上生成了素色织物模拟效果图。经过对上述数学模型的进一步优化,可使织物模拟效果图具有良好的真实感效果。     

New computer geometric modeling approach with filament assembly model for woven fabric structures

This paper presents a new computer geometric modeling approach for three-dimensional woven fabric structures. Pierce’s geometry of the weave fabric of yarn from an arc abscissa (Peirce’s) model is presented. Then, new algorithms with a filament assembly model for a single yarn composed of many filaments by twisting along the crimp shape in the warp/weft is developed. The concept of a virtual location is used to simulate the fiber distributions in the yarn cross-section. Each cross-section is rotated along the yarn length by a pre-determined amount to allow for the yarn twist. The curve of each filament in each two successive cross-sections is approximated by NURBS and then each curve is created by sweeping a closed curve along the centerline of the yarn path. The method described is demonstrated by the CAD model of woven fabrics with plain and twill weaves. The simulated woven fabrics using this approach can demonstrate a wider variety and improved visual simulations of real woven fabric and can then be further generalized for different and more complicated fabrics. The method is necessary as an input to many computational models, such as modeling the mechanical properties or the heat transfer of fabrics or composite parts.     

Analysis of bending properties of worsted wool yarns and fabrics based on quasi-three-point bending

Abstract

The bending behavior of worsted wool yarns and fabrics plays a crucial role in handling and performance of end-use textiles. Hence, the fabric/yarn bending properties were studied based on a quasi-three-point bending model by means of the theoretical modeling and the corresponding measuring method. By means of the formula and the measured curves, the curve of bending rigidity and the curvature of a fabric or a yarn can be calculated so as to characterize the bending behavior more precisely than in the previous work. All the experiments on the fabric/yarn bending rigidity have been conducted for both the worsted wool fabrics and the corresponding yarns procured from the fabrics, with the same apparatus bending evaluation system of fabric and yarn, which was developed independently. The measured results of bending rigidity and curvature curve show good correlation with the bending moment and the curvature relationship of the theoretical modeling, and the comparisons of bending rigidity among KES-FB2 (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics-2 pure bending tester), FAST-2 (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing-2 bending meter), and the independently developed apparatus show that the three systems exhibist reasonably high correlations. It is confirmed that the new apparatus and the theoretical model are both viable and precious. Meanwhile, the theoretical relationship between the yarns and the fabrics has also been discussed, and the theoretical analysis of the bending behavior between the yarns and the fabrics is helpful in selecting a better theoretical model of the fabric-to-yarn bending rigidity ratio.     

Modeling and optimizing the frictional behavior of woven fabrics in climatic conditions using response surface methodology

Frictional characteristics of woven fabrics can determine smoothness and softness values of textiles. In this paper, we have studied the influence of factors such as temperature, relative humidity, fabric structure, type of fiber material, and direction of motion on roughness properties of fabric surface using response surface method (RSM). For this purpose, woven fabrics with plain, rib2/2, twill2/2, twill1/3, twill3/1, twill1/7, and twill7/1 were produced with polyester warp yarn and two different weft yarns (cotton and polyester). Then, a statistical model (RSM) was used for the experimental plan (with these variables) to determine the runs of experiment (or selected points). Next, the frictional forces measurement was carried out on the fabrics in those directions. The experimental results showed that fabric-to-fabric friction (static frictional resistance, kinetic frictional resistance, and smoothness of woven fabrics) is highly sensitive to factors like relative humidity, fabric structure, type of fiber material, and direction of motion while temperature factor (in the range 0–50°C) has no sensitive effect on frictional parameters.     

Optimization of bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics using desirability function

Abstract

Banding and shear properties influence the drape and handle characteristics of woven fabrics. As bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics generally have high degree of association, it is difficult to design a woven fabric having low bending rigidity and high shear rigidity or vice versa. This paper deals with the optimization of bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics using the desirability function approach. Low stress mechanical properties such as bending rigidity and shear rigidity have been combined to represent ‘the overall desirability’ which is varying from 0 to 1. The overall desirability has been maximized against the target values of shear and bending rigidities. It was possible to attain overall desirability of 0.684 resulting from individual desirability of 0.662 and 0.707 for banding and shear rigidities, respectively. Experimental validation confirms that the applied method can be effectively used to optimize the woven fabric mechanical properties at low stress region.     

仿针织牛仔面料的开发及性能评价

为获得兼具针织和机织牛仔面料优点的新型牛仔面料,从纱线的选择、织造、后整理等方面探讨了仿针织牛仔面料的开发。对比测试了仿针织牛仔面料、针织牛仔面料、纯棉机织牛仔面料等5 种面料的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、色牢度等指标,并利用川端织物风格评价系统对牛仔面料的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面摩擦5 项指标进 行织物风格综合分析。结果表明,采用精梳纯棉纱作为经纱,涤纶长丝氨纶包芯纱作为纬纱,选择复合右斜纹组织,经特殊后整理工艺后生产的仿针织牛仔面料经向拉伸断裂强力高达685 N,撕破强力达59 N,粗犷挺括,柔软舒适,弹性和保型性俱佳,克服了针织牛仔面料和机织牛仔面料的风格缺陷。     

Investigating the effect of material and weave design on comfort properties of bilayer-woven fabrics

The paper focuses on the development of a bilayer-woven fabric and investigating the effect of weave design and material type on its comfort properties. Face layer was plain woven with cotton yarn, while two different weave designs (2/2 and 3/1 twill) and four different materials (cotton, polyester, micropolyester and nylon) were used for the back layer. The comfort properties of fabric, including air permeability (AP), thermal resistance, water vapour resistance and overall moisture management capacity, were determined. It was found that both the layers of fabric as a whole contribute to the comfort properties of bilayer fabric. The highest AP was exhibited by fabrics having both layers of cotton, while 3/1 twill samples have a lower value of thermal resistance as compared to the 2/2 twill samples. The results further showed that micro polyester woven in 3/1 twill weave exhibits better comfort properties.     

26—THE ELASTIC RESISTANCE TO BENDING OF PLAIN-WOVEN FABRICS

The elastic resistance to bending of woven fabrics has previously been considered in terms of the existence in the yarns of rigid and elastic sections. The difficulties inherent in such a model and the noticeable differences between the predicted and experimental findings are examined in this paper. Two models of a plain-woven fabric in which the yarn cross-sections are incompressible are then analysed theoretically to obtain the predicted relationship between the applied couple and the curvature of the fabric.

In the first model, the yarns are considered to be unset, i.e., if released from the fabric, they would be uncrimped, and in the second model they are considered to be completely set, i.e., if released from the fabric, they would retain all their crimp. The predicted bending resistance does not agree with the behaviour of actual fabrics owing to the difficulty of defining the ‘radius’ of the yarn in the fabric, but many puzzling qualitative aspects of the bending behaviour of woven fabrics are, as a result of the analysis given, satisfactorily explained.     

An investigation into the effect of fabric structure on the compressional properties of woven fabrics

Lateral compression is one of the most important mechanical aspects of fabrics, which reflects their handle. Fabric compressional features depend on the compressional characteristics of constituent yarns and the fabric structure. In order to consider the effect of fabric structural parameters on its compressional properties, woven fabrics with five different weave patterns (plain, hopsack 2/2, twill 2/2, twill 3/1, warp rib 2/2) were produced with three different nominal weft densities (12, 15, 18 cm^?1). The compressional properties of produced fabrics were evaluated at different pressure values using a conventional fabric thickness tester. It was observed that increasing the weft density leads to decrease in the dissipated compression energy as well as the compressibility of the fabric, while the thickness recovery of the fabric increases. Moreover, the plain woven fabric exhibited the lowest dissipated compression energy and compressibility, while the highest thickness recovery. Besides, at the low pressure level, the fabrics with the lower weft densities demonstrate the higher thickness. By increase in the pressure level, the fabric thickness decreases by decreasing the weft density.     

聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能

为研究聚酯(PET)长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能,利用PET长丝与纯棉纱开发了3种线密度为9.8 tex的纱线,并以二上二下斜纹组织织造了4种织物。对织物进行了折皱回复性、免烫性、尺寸稳定性、悬垂性等保形性能,强伸性、拉伸弹性、顶破性等抗变形性测试,以及手感风格、透湿性、透气性等服用性能测试。对比分析了纯棉纱织物与复合纱织物的保形性与服用性能。结果表明:PET长丝/棉复合纱可改善纯棉织物的折皱回复性、悬垂性,提高免烫等级,同时又不影响织物的服用性能;包芯纱织物比包缠纱织物有更好的保形性,更高的免烫等级,是免烫衬衫面料的理想选择。     

芳纶/阻燃粘胶/阻燃锦纶混纺织物制备及其性能

为获得长效阻燃、高强、耐磨且服用性能好的织物,将芳纶1414、阻燃粘胶与阻燃锦纶3种本质阻燃纤维混纺织造,探讨了混纺比、纱线捻度、织物组织结构和黏合剂种类对纱线及其织物力学性能、阻燃性能和色牢度的影响。结果表明：芳纶1414/阻燃粘胶/阻燃锦纶(30/45/25)混纺纱线同时具备优异的力学性能和阻燃性能,阻燃锦纶的加入使三元混纺纱线断裂强度相比芳纶/阻燃粘胶二元混纺纱线提升56%,耐磨次数提升58%,其纱线的力学性能随着捻度增加先增强后降低,峰值捻度为680捻/m;织物采用斜纹组织结构时,其阻燃性能和力学性能优于平纹和缎纹组织;采用非离子型丙烯酸酯共聚物G-BD作为印花浆料黏合剂,可使得到的高强耐磨阻燃织物水洗20次后变色牢度级数仍保持在2级以上。     

PTT/PET双组分长丝织物拉伸性能测试与分析

为了解PTT/PET三维卷曲复合丝及其不同织物参数对织物拉伸性能的影响,通过改变PTT/PET复合丝比例、捻度、织物组织和纬密4个参数织造了33种织物,测试并分析了这些织物的拉伸性能指标。研究发现：PTT/PET双组分长丝织物拉伸断裂强力较低,而断裂伸长较高,低负荷条件下织物具有高伸长特性;在相同的条件下,随着纬纱PTT/PET含量提高,断裂强力呈下降趋势而断裂伸长相应提高,纬密主要影响织物拉伸断裂强力,对断裂伸长的影响不大,PTT/PET复合丝的捻度对低负荷条件下织物拉伸性能影响明显,因织物组织不同其拉伸性能也存在一定差异。     

Evaluating the crease recovery performance of woven fabrics considering bending behaviour in various directions

Since the woven fabric is used on the 3D body, it encounters bending deformation and crease in various directions. Due to the prominence of these deformations in the appearance of the garment, the inspection of bending and crease recovery behaviour of fabric in different directions needs to be considered. In this paper, the evaluation of bending rigidity and crease recovery of fabrics is carried out in various directions. Analysis of the results revealed that fabric-bending rigidity could be expressed as a sinusoidal function of sample orientation towards warp direction. For all the studied fabrics, from warp axis to bias direction, bending rigidity follows a descending trend, however; crease recovery angle has an ascending tendency. Reverse variations were achieved for both properties from bias direction to weft axis due to the variant warp and weft yarn contributions in each direction. Hence, the lowest bending rigidity was obtained in the bias direction (45°), while the highest crease recovery angle was recorded for the mentioned direction. Moreover, an exponential function is utilized to express the non-linear relation between bending rigidity and the crease recovery in different directions of the fabric. The statistical analysis of the results clarified that the effect of fabric direction and structural parameters on the bending and crease recovery behaviour is significant in the confidence range of 95%.     

Prediction of fabric drape using the FAST system

In this study, we investigated the relationship between the fabric drape coefficient from the drape meter and mechanical properties tested on the fabric assurance by simple testing system (FAST). Different kinds of woven fabrics with two kinds of weave (plain and twill) were tested. Three regression models are proposed for each type of weave and for all fabrics using the multiple linear regressions. The regression results were analyzed in terms of correlation coefficients, T and p-values. A neural model is proposed using the neural networks and it is compared to the regression one.     

Inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery angle of woven fabric

In this paper, the anisotropic wrinkle recovery properties of plain and twill fabrics are explored by studying the variations of the wrinkle recovery angle with sample orientation angle. Orientation angle is the angle measured counterclockwise from the weft direction to the sample’s long axis, that is, the crease direction. This study focused on inspecting anisotropy in wrinkle recovery to find more effective test angles for different woven fabrics. A dynamic wrinkle recovery tester was used to measure the recovery angles of specimens automatically which were cut in various directions. The trend of plain fabrics shows that its recovery angle generally increases at first and then decreases with the increase in the orientation angle. The trend of twill fabrics differs in folding ways. The experimental results revealed that the wrinkle recovery angles of the woven fabrics had the lowest values near the orientation angles of 0° and 90°, i.e. the warp and weft directions, and therefore these two traditionally used directions in the standard test method did not best reflect the wrinkle recovery yielded from both warps and wefts. The diagonal direction (45°) was proven to be the optimal orientation angle for a balanced plain fabric, while the two orthogonal directions, i.e. the twill direction and its perpendicular direction, were found to be more relevant for a twill fabric. Optimal orientation angles used to test the wrinkle recovery angle of a woven fabric should be associated with its structure.     

An analysis of the bending rigidity of warp-knitted fabrics: a comparison of experimental results to a mechanical model

This study focuses on the bending rigidity of warp-knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure (underlaps length), density (wale and course spacing) and yarn bending properties. Seven standard warp-knitted fabrics are produced with three different densities (Tricot, Locknit, three and four needles Satin, Reveres Locknit, three and four needles Sharkskin). The bending rigidity of the fabrics is measured using a Kawabata evaluation system and an automatic cyclic bending tester. Results show that the bending rigidity increases for the fabrics with a higher density and underlaps length of the front and back guide bars. In addition, a new mechanical model for the bending behaviour of warp-knitted fabrics using an energy method is presented. In this model, the knitted loop structure is assumed to consist of a series of straight and skew yarns simulating legs and underlaps while considering a rigid region lying in the direction of bending. Experimental results show that there is a reasonable agreement between the calculated and measured values for both wale and course directions.     

Y形涤纶纤维机织物的开发与性能分析

为了研究Y形涤纶纤维机织物的性能,利用Y形涤纶纤维的纯纺纱以及与棉纤维的混纺纱线,设计开发了16种平纹和斜纹组织织物,对其吸湿排汗性能如吸湿性、透湿性、 吸水性及快干性进行了测试与分析。结果表明：较稀疏、轻薄的混纺织物比纯纺织物透湿性好;而较紧密、厚实的纯纺织物比混纺织物透湿性好；随着织物组织结构紧密度和厚度的增加,Y形涤纶纤维织物的干燥速度下降。